(Topic ID: 220722)

Caveman Pop Bumper


By CUJO

2 years ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by CUJO
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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popctrb4 (resized).jpg
popcenter (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

Well, something I thought would be simple to do turns out to bite me.

I replaced the center Gottlieb dual leaf switch on the center pop on Caveman due to the lower scoring leaf snapping off.

I took a pic of the switch before unsoldering the wires so I could be sure I resoldered them back on correctly.

Mounted the new dual leaf switch after gapping the points.

Now when I test the center pop, it will rapid fire. Not one and done until the ring is released as it should go.

Also the right pop bumper will not fire at all where it did before so wondering if I did get the wiring right on the center pop?

Thanks in advance!
popcenter (resized).jpg

Here is pic before un-soldering old dual leaf switch (The pic I have switch between my fingers)

popctrb4 (resized).jpg
#2 2 years ago

I'd mount the switch on the playfield again and look closely to make sure the switches aren't getting mashed together as you install it. Could be a part of the pop bumper mech catching the end of a switch leaf (and forcing it to close the switch). If it was working ok before and all you did is replace the switch (and you're certain the wiring is correct), then I'd have to assume it's the way the switch was mounted. The new switch leaves may be a bit longer, or perhaps a leaf got caught by a nearby part while installing it. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

I'd mount the switch on the playfield again and look closely to make sure the switches aren't getting mashed together as you install it. Could be a part of the pop bumper mech catching the end of a switch leaf (and forcing it to close the switch). If it was working ok before and all you did is replace the switch (and you're certain the wiring is correct), then I'd have to assume it's the way the switch was mounted. The new switch leaves may be a bit longer, or perhaps a leaf got caught by a nearby part while installing it. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

I would agree but puzzled why the right pop quit working...

#4 2 years ago

The rapid firing is probably just because the lower contacts (closer to the playfield) are gapped too close together, causing the shaking of the pop firing to vibrate them closed again.

As for the right pop, do you have continuity from it's lower switch to the other pop bumpers? One side of the switch (probably a white wire with orange stripes?) should be chained along between all of them

#5 2 years ago

See my YouTube video I just posted. I have tried unmercifully to get those top two contacts to be gapped right but never can seem to get it.
I did blow a fuse on the center pop and I replaced it. The fuse for the right pop is good but replaced anyway and still not pop action on the right.
Might have blown that transistor somehow/someway.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

The rapid firing is probably just because the lower contacts (closer to the playfield) are gapped too close together, causing the shaking of the pop firing to vibrate them closed again.
As for the right pop, do you have continuity from it's lower switch to the other pop bumpers? One side of the switch (probably a white wire with orange stripes?) should be chained along between all of them

I'll check that white w/orange for continuity now between the three pops.

Update: Yep, got the continuity between all three right lugs closest to playfield (orange/white)

#7 2 years ago

I would check the pop bumper driver boards. The actuator switch can be stuck closed and the driver board is designed to only pop once and not stay locked on.

There is a mod which MUST be done to the driver boards. See pinwiki.com for more info. Also the header pins need to be reflowed and you should add some solder around the hole where the transistor bolts to the board. This will help with unusual behavior and blown fuses.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I would check the pop bumper driver boards. The actuator switch can be stuck closed and the driver board is designed to only pop once and not stay locked on.
There is a mod which MUST be done to the driver boards. See pinwiki.com for more info. Also the header pins need to be reflowed and you should add some solder around the hole where the transistor bolts to the board. This will help with unusual behavior and blown fuses.

IF you watched my You Tube video in a couple threads up, it does only pop once when I manually activate the coil switch.
It's when I press the ring down topside and it pushes the spoon down is when it goes into rat-a-tat-tat mode...

I had already replaced the center pop bumper board with a new Rottendog clone.

Thanks for your suggestions. I think it's really not such a big deal as the ball leaves the center pop ring fairly fast topside anyhow.
My concern now is why the right pop bumper won't fire.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I would check the pop bumper driver boards. The actuator switch can be stuck closed and the driver board is designed to only pop once and not stay locked on.
There is a mod which MUST be done to the driver boards. See pinwiki.com for more info. Also the header pins need to be reflowed and you should add some solder around the hole where the transistor bolts to the board. This will help with unusual behavior and blown fuses.

I'm going to ask a really dumb question, cause I don't know Gottlieb's well enough:
Is the transistor responsible driving the pop bumper coil on the pop bumper driver board or on another driver board in the backbox??

#10 2 years ago

The transistor is on the pop bumper driver board.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

IF you watched my You Tube video in a couple threads up, it does only pop once when I manually activate the coil switch.
It's when I press the ring down topside and it pushes the spoon down is when it goes into rat-a-tat-tat mode...

Sorry, couldn't watch it at the time. Have you tried the Rottendog board on the right pop bumper?

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Sorry, couldn't watch it at the time. Have you tried the Rottendog board on the right pop bumper?

I have not tried swapping the cables on the pop bumper boards yet to see ( if they reach) If not, will move PPB's to try that.
Will do today.

#13 2 years ago

Update:
Swapped cables on Pop Bumper Driver Board(s) 2 &3.
Problem followed the cable so the right pop bumper board failed.
I still had the original Gottlieb board that went bad from when I bought the Rottendog to replace it.
I reflowed all the solder connections on the old board & thought I'd give it a try.
To my delight, the board worked after reflowing solder so all pops are firing making for a much more lively game.
Thanks to all that offered advice!

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