(Topic ID: 289549)

Caveman Pinball, Game freezes when you go into a cave in video mode!

By Tlw7409

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Hello!

I have a Caveman Pinball (1982, Gottlieb) that seems to be working great besides one little hiccup. When the ball enters a hole to start up the video mode, and if the player controls the caveman on screen and goes back into a “cave” (or safe spot on the sides of the screen) the ball doesn’t launch back into the playfield to let them continue to play on the playfield (as it should). The video game screen freezes up, along with the table, and it makes me turn off the entire pinball machine. BUT, on the other hand, if the player lets the dinosaurs eat the player’s character, the game DOES kick the ball into the playfield and lets the player resume the regular pinball play (regular play when this happens is to lose a ball, but it does start up the next ball in the plunger area). I know the switches are detecting the ball when its in the video mode hole because the video mode works, and the solenoids work because the ball still is able to be kicked out when the video game player “dies” by being eaten by a dinosaur on screen. I’m guessing it’s a problem where a signal isn’t being sent to the pinball board from the video game boards properly when they go into the “cave” in the video game, but I’m no expert. I made sure check all connectors are pushed in fully. I did buy this in the last week. It hasn’t worked for me or the seller. I don’t know where to start from here.

Video Link of what happens:

Manuals:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Q0lq-pKA2qzVksKqclKDsGflPdLlibJ/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DSJ6h_hGj_byYQy971gTpBUhmErkR0Fi/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks for your help!

#2 1 year ago

Will be curious what the cause is. I have a baby Pac-Man and understand the vidot board it uses. but this caveman I have only played once and have no idea how it operates video and pinball. It’s definitely not sending a signal back to the pinball MPU to resume. Have you done the basics and checked all of the plugs on the boards, maybe reseat them. If the game has any ribbon cables, do the same. Always a good place to start. Hopefully there isn’t an old NiCad battery on a board corroding things.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

Hello!
I have a Caveman Pinball (1982, Gottlieb) that seems to be working great besides one little hiccup. When the ball enters a hole to start up the video mode, and if the player controls the caveman on screen and goes back into a “cave” (or safe spot on the sides of the screen) the ball doesn’t launch back into the playfield to let them continue to play on the playfield (as it should). The video game screen freezes up, along with the table, and it makes me turn off the entire pinball machine. BUT, on the other hand, if the player lets the dinosaurs eat the player’s character, the game DOES kick the ball into the playfield and lets the player resume the regular pinball play (regular play when this happens is to lose a ball, but it does start up the next ball in the plunger area). I know the switches are detecting the ball when its in the video mode hole because the video mode works, and the solenoids work because the ball still is able to be kicked out when the video game player “dies” by being eaten by a dinosaur on screen. I’m guessing it’s a problem where a signal isn’t being sent to the pinball board from the video game boards properly when they go into the “cave” in the video game, but I’m no expert. I made sure check all connectors are pushed in fully. I did buy this in the last week. It hasn’t worked for me or the seller. I don’t know where to start from here.
Video Link of what happens:
Manuals:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Q0lq-pKA2qzVksKqclKDsGflPdLlibJ/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DSJ6h_hGj_byYQy971gTpBUhmErkR0Fi/view?usp=drivesdk
Thanks for your help!

Fascinating.
So it’s staying in video mode, and it’s not sending the signal to the game. It looks like the logic isn’t ending the video portion either, since it freezes but the sounds and music continues uninterrupted. My understanding of this issue is there’s a bad connection in the stack of boards underneath the video monitor. Much like the Vidiot board has to talk between the MPU and video game functions of the Baby Pac-Man, there is an issue with the pinball and the video game interfacing.
Be careful because Caveman is extremely UNFRIENDLY service-wise. Game is a nightmare

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

Will be curious what the cause is. I have a baby Pac-Man and understand the vidot board it uses. but this caveman I have only played once and have no idea how it operates video and pinball. It’s definitely not sending a signal back to the pinball MPU to resume. Have you done the basics and checked all of the plugs on the boards, maybe reseat them. If the game has any ribbon cables, do the same. Always a good place to start. Hopefully there isn’t an old NiCad battery on a board corroding things.

I have unplugged and replugged the wires connecting to the boards behind the backglass and the plugs connecting to the boards housed in the metal cage under the playfield (I think that’s the video game boards—or at least I’ve been told that’s what they are). Nothing resolved the problem. I checked boards for corrosion and didn’t see anything. The battery is in good condition. Any other ideas?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Fascinating.
So it’s staying in video mode, and it’s not sending the signal to the game. It looks like the logic isn’t ending the video portion either, since it freezes but the sounds and music continues uninterrupted. My understanding of this issue is there’s a bad connection in the stack of boards underneath the video monitor. Much like the Vidiot board has to talk between the MPU and video game functions of the Baby Pac-Man, there is an issue with the pinball and the video game interfacing.
Be careful because Caveman is extremely UNFRIENDLY service-wise. Game is a nightmare

I read online that I can unplug the joystick and use alligator clips to ground out the wires which would cause a video mode test. Maybe that will give me information as to what is bad in the video game boards? I’ll check and post results tonight.

#6 1 year ago

I double checked the solenoids and switches through the self/test and they were all working. I also did the video-pinball Interface Test tonight. The results are attached (picture). The manual stated that it would have 3 phases to this test. I’m a little confused on what the results of my test are. I attached that page to the manual here as well.

The most confusing part is the “video section” of Part II. It states it “exercises the lines back to the pinball via the switch matrix. This part of the test is displayed in the ‘BALL IN PLAY’ window...” what window are they taking about? The score board? The playfield lights? Nothing seems to be showing up at all. I tried to press the reset button on the coin door to start the testing and it just starts the Bookkeeping Self/Tests.

I also see “CHART 2” of the attached page has switch matrix number 02 as “EXIT VIDEO AND RETURN TO PINGAME PLAN”. This is the exact problem I am having with my game. Could this help me in finding the problem? Where would I see this information during the Interface test? I guess I should also ask, what is a “Switch Matrix?”

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#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

The most confusing part is the “video section” of Part II. It states it “exercises the lines back to the pinball via the switch matrix. This part of the test is displayed in the ‘BALL IN PLAY’ window...”

I think it means the results from those tests will appear in the center of the display panel here, in the box below "Ball in Play"

1579197724(1).png

It looks like the switches numbered 00 through the number 16 get tested (and displayed) sequentially at that part of the self-test sequence (test 2). It also states if the joystick test jack is still connected it will repeatedly run through tests 1, 2, and 3.

Are you following all the steps for the video-pinball test? Do you have the required "test jack" mentioned? Make sure you have a credit in the game, and that you're setting the dip switches on the control board as indicated in the instructions (and turning them back off when you're finished testing!):
d6602cb46b0fe63ff427f0de71234d862de7c6a9(1).png

I just see now that you linked to the manuals, I'll take a gander at them and see what i can come up with. I'll admit, i have zero experience with this game. I may not be able to come up with much but I'll see what i can find out.

To answer one last question you had, about the switch matrix: the switch matrix is basically the CPU's method of detecting the switches in the game. This is particularly interesting in that the switch matrix on this game runs not only through the pinball portion of the game, but also appears to run through the video part as well (as far as i can see so far). I'll definitely need to take some time to study the manual a bit to see if anything else sticks out. Hopefully someone with experience with this game can chime in!

Good luck with the game, it's a very interesting one!

#8 1 year ago

this is of absolutely no help to you at all, but I played this as a kid, and loved the concept combining video and pinball.

yours is the only one i've seen and heard of since in the last 35 years, very nice....hope it gets sorted out.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

I think it means the results from those tests will appear in the center of the display panel here, in the box below "Ball in Play"
[quoted image]
It looks like the switches numbered 00 through the number 16 get tested (and displayed) sequentially at that part of the self-test sequence (test 2). It also states if the joystick test jack is still connected it will repeatedly run through tests 1, 2, and 3.
Are you following all the steps for the video-pinball test? Do you have the required "test jack" mentioned? Make sure you have a credit in the game, and that you're setting the dip switches on the control board as indicated in the instructions (and turning them back off when you're finished testing!):
[quoted image]
I just see now that you linked to the manuals, I'll take a gander at them and see what i can come up with. I'll admit, i have zero experience with this game. I may not be able to come up with much but I'll see what i can find out.
To answer one last question you had, about the switch matrix: the switch matrix is basically the CPU's method of detecting the switches in the game. This is particularly interesting in that the switch matrix on this game runs not only through the pinball portion of the game, but also appears to run through the video part as well (as far as i can see so far). I'll definitely need to take some time to study the manual a bit to see if anything else sticks out. Hopefully someone with experience with this game can chime in!
Good luck with the game, it's a very interesting one!

Quoted from frunch:

I think it means the results from those tests will appear in the center of the display panel here, in the box below "Ball in Play"
[quoted image]
It looks like the switches numbered 00 through the number 16 get tested (and displayed) sequentially at that part of the self-test sequence (test 2). It also states if the joystick test jack is still connected it will repeatedly run through tests 1, 2, and 3.
Are you following all the steps for the video-pinball test? Do you have the required "test jack" mentioned? Make sure you have a credit in the game, and that you're setting the dip switches on the control board as indicated in the instructions (and turning them back off when you're finished testing!):
[quoted image]
I just see now that you linked to the manuals, I'll take a gander at them and see what i can come up with. I'll admit, i have zero experience with this game. I may not be able to come up with much but I'll see what i can find out.
To answer one last question you had, about the switch matrix: the switch matrix is basically the CPU's method of detecting the switches in the game. This is particularly interesting in that the switch matrix on this game runs not only through the pinball portion of the game, but also appears to run through the video part as well (as far as i can see so far). I'll definitely need to take some time to study the manual a bit to see if anything else sticks out. Hopefully someone with experience with this game can chime in!
Good luck with the game, it's a very interesting one!

When I ran the Interface test I made sure to simulate the “Test Jack” by closing all of the joystick’s switches. A0821D81-7F09-4F8A-B0F6-6F46A918D504 (resized).jpeg

I also flipped the #6-8 on the board behind the backglass to “on” like the manual stated. Maybe you can double check that I flipped the correct ones? I assumed the switches after the first 8 just continue the # to 9-16, 17-24, and 25-32? Or should I be flipping each “6-8” switch I see on that board?6A5AD9AB-DDC7-45A3-9A96-1A6E9D6571AB (resized).jpeg

As soon as I plug in the joystick with the modified closed switches, the monitor screen in the playfield switches to display the Ram, color, and video tests. I don’t even have to touch the reset button on the front coin door. When I do press the Reset button to start the 3 stage Interface test, nothing but the Self/Test mode starts running on the backglass. It starts testing the switches and solenoids, etc.

Interestingly, I saw that my F6 fuse was also blown under the playfield. I replaced it and it blew again when I turned on my pinball. Could this be related? 907BC231-BA9F-4393-B37B-F19B8B1B1CA8 (resized).jpeg

Thank you for your help and time, frunch. I greatly appreciate it!

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

When I ran the Interface test I made sure to simulate the “Test Jack” by closing all of the joystick’s switches. [quoted image]
I also flipped the #6-8 on the board behind the backglass to “on” like the manual stated. Maybe you can double check that I flipped the correct ones? I assumed the switches after the first 8 just continue the # to 9-16, 17-24, and 25-32? Or should I be flipping each “6-8” switch I see on that board?[quoted image]
As soon as I plug in the joystick with the modified closed switches, the monitor screen in the playfield switches to display the Ram, color, and video tests. I don’t even have to touch the reset button on the front coin door. When I do press the Reset button to start the 3 stage Interface test, nothing but the Self/Test mode starts running on the backglass. It starts testing the switches and solenoids, etc.
Interestingly, I saw that my F6 fuse was also blown under the playfield. I replaced it and it blew again when I turned on my pinball. Could this be related? [quoted image]
Thank you for your help and time, frunch. I greatly appreciate it!

The dip switches that switched are the correct ones. The issue with the fuse blowing is something I do not believe is related.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

When I ran the Interface test I made sure to simulate the “Test Jack” by closing all of the joystick’s switches. [quoted image]
I also flipped the #6-8 on the board behind the backglass to “on” like the manual stated. Maybe you can double check that I flipped the correct ones? I assumed the switches after the first 8 just continue the # to 9-16, 17-24, and 25-32? Or should I be flipping each “6-8” switch I see on that board?[quoted image]
As soon as I plug in the joystick with the modified closed switches, the monitor screen in the playfield switches to display the Ram, color, and video tests. I don’t even have to touch the reset button on the front coin door. When I do press the Reset button to start the 3 stage Interface test, nothing but the Self/Test mode starts running on the backglass. It starts testing the switches and solenoids, etc.
Interestingly, I saw that my F6 fuse was also blown under the playfield. I replaced it and it blew again when I turned on my pinball. Could this be related? [quoted image]
Thank you for your help and time, frunch. I greatly appreciate it!

Unfortunately Gottlieb manuals are copyright protected still by the family so I can’t find one to help you troubleshoot it. Usually the 6a is for solenoids, I believe.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Unfortunately Gottlieb manuals are copyright protected still by the family so I can’t find one to help you troubleshoot it. Usually the 6a is for solenoids, I believe.

I’m not the best at reading the electrical diagrams. I found the fuse (f6) and I followed the lines, but get lost on where they are connected on the playfield diagram. I think it said it lit up the coin chute (I’m assuming this is the coin door lights?), and playfield lights. When I follow the line to the left side of the page I saw it connected to a couple symbols I’m not familiar with. Pictured here:
B9FDBAF7-336D-483F-B541-9377275AD8FA (resized).jpeg
I guess what I’m asking is f6 is connected more than just coin chute and playfield lights.

Manual link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Q0lq-pKA2qzVksKqclKDsGflPdLlibJ/view?usp=drivesdk

Thank you for any advice you can give me. I appreciate your time!

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

I’m not the best at reading the electrical diagrams. I found the fuse (f6) and I followed the lines, but get lost on where they are connected on the playfield diagram. I think it said it lit up the coin chute (I’m assuming this is the coin door lights?), and playfield lights. When I follow the line to the left side of the page I saw it connected to a couple symbols I’m not familiar with. Pictured here:
[quoted image]
I guess what I’m asking is f6 is connected more than just coin chute and playfield lights.
Manual link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Q0lq-pKA2qzVksKqclKDsGflPdLlibJ/view?usp=drivesdk
Thank you for any advice you can give me. I appreciate your time!

F6 is used for general illumination as far as I know. The caveman that I have is far from being powered on anytime soon. Did the fuse go as soon as the machine power on?

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

F6 is used for general illumination as far as I know. The caveman that I have is far from being powered on anytime soon. Did the fuse go as soon as the machine power on?

I just verified. Yes. The F6 fuse blows within the first second of being turned on. What could be the cause of that? There aren’t Diodes on lights or anything that could be causing it? Maybe a short circuit? Thoughts?

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

I think it means the results from those tests will appear in the center of the display panel here, in the box below "Ball in Play"
[quoted image]
It looks like the switches numbered 00 through the number 16 get tested (and displayed) sequentially at that part of the self-test sequence (test 2). It also states if the joystick test jack is still connected it will repeatedly run through tests 1, 2, and 3.
Are you following all the steps for the video-pinball test? Do you have the required "test jack" mentioned? Make sure you have a credit in the game, and that you're setting the dip switches on the control board as indicated in the instructions (and turning them back off when you're finished testing!):
[quoted image]
I just see now that you linked to the manuals, I'll take a gander at them and see what i can come up with. I'll admit, i have zero experience with this game. I may not be able to come up with much but I'll see what i can find out.
To answer one last question you had, about the switch matrix: the switch matrix is basically the CPU's method of detecting the switches in the game. This is particularly interesting in that the switch matrix on this game runs not only through the pinball portion of the game, but also appears to run through the video part as well (as far as i can see so far). I'll definitely need to take some time to study the manual a bit to see if anything else sticks out. Hopefully someone with experience with this game can chime in!
Good luck with the game, it's a very interesting one!

I did get the Interface Test to work, finally! I thought it said to press the coin door test button, but it was really the “start game” button you have to press. Now I have to just try to decode this test!

#16 1 year ago

The numbers that come up in the Interface test we’re 01, 03, 04, 05, 06, 10, 11, 13, 14, and 15.

196A96A4-7DCF-4A61-8F24-1022ED8E1159 (resized).jpeg
8C2B0C34-2C3B-4B56-9F74-F6E897B47D51 (resized).jpeg

I’m a little lost on what this actually tells me. I see that the test did not display an “02” which was “Exit Video and Return to Pingame Plan”. Does this validate that the video game isn’t sending a signal to the pinball table telling it the video game has paused when the caveman enters a cave? I also noticed that it DID display an “06”, which stated “Caveman Eaten By A Tyrannosaurus”. This part also makes sense with what is going on. The game WILL send the ball back in play if I get eaten by a dinosaur in the video game (it actually is considered a lost ball (flippers won’t move until the ball is sensed in the trough)) but it does let you play your next ball from the plunger. Lastly, “12” was not displayed during the test, which states in the manual as “Caveman has Stopped (Sound)”. I wonder if this is tied in with the big issue I’m having or just a small sound issue I can just ignore for now?

Any ideas where on the pinball cabinet I should look for fix this or what parts I need to replace?

#17 1 year ago

Need to figure out what switch two on the switch matrix is , to see if you can trigger it, or even validate it is connected properly to the Caveman MPU which would be what closes that switch.

51119C5D-AAE9-4101-B544-C04017599CAD (resized).jpeg
#18 1 year ago

I noticed a couple of things. I also saw that "00" did not show on the test as well. That would make the switches not registering: "00" "02" "12".

The issue of "02" and "12" should be tied to the same issue. The easiest place to start in my opinion is to see if the vari-targets are registering.

To test this you want to keep the vari-target to a spot where a switch would be closed on it (easiest in my mind is to push it back all the way, and go to the self test that is the switch test (step 18). If the vari-target works there should be a number besides 99. According to the manual, the third, forth, and credit and ball in play display will all show the same information. An example of a switch being closed would be "18 67" where "18" would show test 18 and "67" would be the outhole (switch no 67).

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

Need to figure out what switch two on the switch matrix is , to see if you can trigger it, or even validate it is connected properly to the Caveman MPU which would be what closes that switch.
[quoted image]

To read the matrix, the strobes are your rows, and your returns are your columns. The strobe is your first digit, and your second digit is the return.

To stay with the switch example of the outhole, which is switch 67, you see that it is on strobe 6, and return 7, which gets you switch 67.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

I noticed a couple of things. I also saw that "00" did not show on the test as well. That would make the switches not registering: "00" "02" "12".
The issue of "02" and "12" should be tied to the same issue. The easiest place to start in my opinion is to see if the vari-targets are registering.
To test this you want to keep the vari-target to a spot where a switch would be closed on it (easiest in my mind is to push it back all the way, and go to the self test that is the switch test (step 18). If the vari-target works there should be a number besides 99. According to the manual, the third, forth, and credit and ball in play display will all show the same information. An example of a switch being closed would be "18 67" where "18" would show test 18 and "67" would be the outhole (switch no 67).

I’ll try this tonight and get back to you. Thank you so much for your help, pinflip_!

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

I noticed a couple of things. I also saw that "00" did not show on the test as well. That would make the switches not registering: "00" "02" "12".
The issue of "02" and "12" should be tied to the same issue. The easiest place to start in my opinion is to see if the vari-targets are registering.
To test this you want to keep the vari-target to a spot where a switch would be closed on it (easiest in my mind is to push it back all the way, and go to the self test that is the switch test (step 18). If the vari-target works there should be a number besides 99. According to the manual, the third, forth, and credit and ball in play display will all show the same information. An example of a switch being closed would be "18 67" where "18" would show test 18 and "67" would be the outhole (switch no 67).

I was looking closer at “00” code... it states “brontosaurus and triceratop crushed”... lol whatever that means? I think that means it won’t let me “hit” them with my caveman sprite when in video game mode? I’ll maybe have to test this out tonight? Unless you think it means something different or if I should test it some other way?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

I was looking closer at “00” code... it states “brontosaurus and triceratop crushed”... lol whatever that means? I think that means it won’t let me “hit” them with my caveman sprite when in video game mode? I’ll maybe have to test this out tonight? Unless you think it means something different or if I should test it some other way?

It's probably a loose/broken wire under the playfield for the switch matrix. I would start there.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

I was looking closer at “00” code... it states “brontosaurus and triceratop crushed”... lol whatever that means? I think that means it won’t let me “hit” them with my caveman sprite when in video game mode? I’ll maybe have to test this out tonight? Unless you think it means something different or if I should test it some other way?

I would start by playing a game and seeing if you get points for crushing a brontosaurus or triceratops.

Since “10” works that eliminates the issue of “return 0” not working, and numbers “01” “03” “04” “05” “06” working eliminates the issue of “strobe 0” not working.

#24 1 year ago

Agreed, it seems any switches with a 2 in the ones digit: "02" and "12" that are giving the problem. The only other switches that end in a "2" for the ones digit is the vari-targets, as pinflip_ pointed out.
Screenshot_20210312_191839_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpg

So, definitely check to make sure the wiring is firmly attached at those switches on both vari-targets.

#25 1 year ago

You guys might be on to something! Here is the results of the Vari-target test. I think we’re getting close!

When I hit the Vari-targets the “Ball in Play” changes and makes a very funny sound (maybe it’s supposed to be like that though?). This happens with both Vari-targets. It eventually turned off the background sound and shut down the entire table, making it reset itself. Very strange. Would that mean the problem is the switches under the playfield for the Vari-targets?

#26 1 year ago

I checked the right Vari-target and didn’t notice anything out of place.... then I checked the left vari-target and saw this!

33779D75-40EA-47DE-B758-27BDE0917FE6 (resized).jpeg

This might be the issue! I’ll solder it back where I think it goes... it looks like it was connected to the diode before. I’ll then retest and let you know what I find!

#27 1 year ago

Soldered back on (she isn’t the prettiest solder job, but I think she’ll hold) and now for the test!

0F1E8766-DA2F-4B98-BCAC-12191591A99A (resized).jpeg

#28 1 year ago

It works! The caveman can now go back into the virtual cave in the video game mode and the ball will launch out of the hole to resume gameplay!!!!!!!! Holy shit! Thank you pinflip_ alexanr1 and frunch for your help and support!

Now, I did test the F6 fuse and it still is blown on startup, reinforcing that it’s a totally separate issue. Everything on the pinball table seems to be working except the lights under the plastic art coverings (basically 1/2 of the playfield lights). I guess I never noticed that there were this many lights out. The ones controlling the game (lighting 1x, 2x, 3x, spelling “CAVE” or lighting the drop targets) are the working ones (and really the only ones I truly cared about because the game still tells you what to go for). Would I be checking for crosses wires when their is a blowing fuse like this or what should I be looking for?

Again, I am very grateful for your help guys! Thank you!!!!!

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from Tlw7409:

It works! The caveman can now go back into the virtual cave in the video game mode and the ball will launch out of the hole to resume gameplay!!!!!!!! Holy shit! Thank you pinflip_ alexanr1 and frunch for your help and support!
Now, I did test the F6 fuse and it still is blown on startup, reinforcing that it’s a totally separate issue. Everything on the pinball table seems to be working except the lights under the plastic art coverings (basically 1/2 of the playfield lights). I guess I never noticed that there were this many lights out. The ones controlling the game (lighting 1x, 2x, 3x, spelling “CAVE” or lighting the drop targets) are the working ones (and really the only ones I truly cared about because the game still tells you what to go for). Would I be checking for crosses wires when their is a blowing fuse like this or what should I be looking for?
Again, I am very grateful for your help guys! Thank you!!!!!

Chances are that there’s a direct short somewhere. You can check it a couple of different ways. You can look for it by looking at all the sockets and seeing if any of them are shorting out, or you can disconnect the coin door and playfield, turn the machine on and see if the issue is still there. Then plug in the coin door, test, then plug in the playfield, test again…

Just remember don’t throw a larger fuse in, since there is an issue you don’t wires melting or other issues that could happen when you over fuse.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

Chances are that there’s a direct short somewhere. You can check it a couple of different ways. You can look for it by looking at all the sockets and seeing if any of them are shorting out, or you can disconnect the coin door and playfield, turn the machine on and see if the issue is still there. Then plug in the coin door, test, then plug in the playfield, test again…
Just remember don’t throw a larger fuse in, since there is an issue you don’t wires melting or other issues that could happen when you over fuse.

Someone in another Pinside forum posted this:
“ Use a 9v battery, hook alligator clips to it, then with the game off touch the clips to a socket. See which bulb in the string doesn't light and youve found your problem.”

Do I you think this is safe to try?

#31 1 year ago

If you want to be extra cautious, you could unplug the light matrix connector from the board. Should be fine then.

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

If you want to be extra cautious, you could unplug the light matrix connector from the board. Should be fine then. Never heard of this troubleshooting approach though.

#33 1 year ago

Found the issue!

3D6CF707-ECB7-4476-BAA3-6C2CF97E1073 (resized).jpeg

The light bulb frame was smashed on the side all of the pin, causing the two parts of the light to be touching!

Thanks again for all of your help!!!!! You guys are amazing!

#34 1 year ago

Great job!!

Such a cool game! The sound fx and voice are awesome. Very unique title, congrats on bringing it past the finish line!

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Great job!!
Such a cool game! The sound fx and voice are awesome. Very unique title, congrats on bringing it past the finish line!

ditto

1 week later
#36 1 year ago

Just curious: how are you enjoying the game so far? It's a very interesting title, i hope to play one someday!

4 months later
#37 9 months ago
Quoted from frunch:

Just curious: how are you enjoying the game so far? It's a very interesting title, i hope to play one someday!

I just picked one up and love it. The vari-target sounds are cool and it has very deep crisp bass.

7 months later
#38 54 days ago

Love the vari -targets on my Caveman as well.

My girlfriend loves this game and told me never to let it go, even for 10K. She is serious!

We have played it at least 2-3 times a week for the last 3 years.

I had the GC score until a few weeks ago. She topped my 3 Million + score with just a few thousand more. Broke my spirit for a while....LOL

Such an underrated pin and I hope mine never give me issues because it is one complicated pin. Lot of boards up top and a card cage in the cabinet.

I was never able to figure out how to get the match feature to work even thou the switches are set correctly.

#39 53 days ago

I was never able to figure out how to get the match feature to work even thou the switches are set correctly.

did you check the dip switch with a multimeter? the switch may be faulty?

#40 52 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

I was never able to figure out how to get the match feature to work even thou the switches are set correctly.
did you check the dip switch with a multimeter? the switch may be faulty?

No, that may be something to try. It's not a big deal to me anymore but was wondering if anyone else had that issue? Does it have a knocker sound when it matches? Maybe that coil or fuse is bad. Talking thru my hat until I get out the manual again..

Thanks.

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