Quoted from DawnP:
cottonm4 Is that paint color the same for the cabinet if already painted? (Original paint). I need to do some touch up on the cabinet in places. Haven’t bought any craft paints yet. For the plastic, I might have some poly at work. I might be able to “fix” the plastic by making a template in CAD and cut like you said, along the crucible and make new corner and glue backup piece to it and make it flush on the front.
I got the spray can color from SMP14. Click on the link.
Quoted from SMP14:
Couple of things I'm having issues with, the left flipper button switch is wired to J3-16, which I got. But, it's also wired to J2-1, which I am not sure how that is wired, since J2-1 is on the playfield, do I have to daisy chain this somehow?
Also having issue with the VSU 100 wiring. I can understand everything except "J3 pin 1 to GI buss" ...which GI buss should I connect this to since there are multiple GI Buss labeled in the schematic? Thanks
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This is not the color chip, but I do have a color chip from Walmart that is a very close match to the Catacomb green. Lowes or Home Depot also has a color chip that is a real close match for Catacomb green. I don't know about Walmart but Lowes and HD will mix up paint samples in 4 oz. containers witch might be enough for touch up work. However, I am an automotive paint guy and don't know well these paints work except for painting house walls.
Quoted from DawnP:
I might be able to “fix” the plastic by making a template in CAD and cut like you said, along the crucible and make new corner and glue backup piece to it and make it flush on the front.
You really don't need a template. You are just cutting a rectangle with a trimmed corner down in the lower right hand. That trimmed corner is factory so the plastic ball does not get blocked by a sharp corner.
You don't need to glue the back up piece. You don't want to glue the backup piece because that will destroy the inks. But you will have to do something different. The plastic is mounted using 5 spacers that around here are referred to as "bells. These are captive spacers. When doing your repair you can use any spacer you want; You are not limited to reusing the bells.
These are to facilitate factory assembly. They are swaged to the plastic.
SIDEBAR: If you buy new plastics you will have to remove these bells. So you are not making extra work for yourself by removing these.
If I were doing this job here is how I would do it.
1) Heat the plastic up with a hair dryer to soften it a bit.
2) Carefully rotate and manipulate the bell to pull it from the plastic. Be careful and take time to not mess anything up.
3) I would only remove the 3 lower bells to give a 3-point lockdown for the repair poly. Leave the 2 top bells alone.
4) Cut 3 small pieces of your .030 poly to make 3 or 5 custom washers. Drill a small hole in each washer and run a screw through the holes to make your own threads.
5) Prepare the repair poly by cutting to fit, painting and match drilling 3 holes from where you pulled the bells.
6) Sandwich the repair poly between the factory plastic and a bell. Insert a screw into the factory plastic and the repair poly and a bell.
7) Take on of the custom washers you made and screw it down. You now have made yourself a captive, or captured, screw and spacer. Do this 2 more times. Your repair poly will be located properly and you did not have to use any glue.
8*) This part is optional: Take washers # 4 and #5 and make the two top bells as a captive screw setup. This would be for uniformity only. So your spacing will be even. But we are only talking .030 so this step is not important.
9) Take your now repaired plastic with its captive bells and reinstall.
SIDEBAR #2: When you remove the bells you will see how the swaged area is curled over. You have 3 options.
A). You can sand those curled over areas off.
B) You can take a pair of needle nose pliers and straighten out the curled area so you can get the bel back into correct position. And then refer to Steps 1-9 above.
C) You can heat up the factory plastic and try to weasel the curled area back into its hole (sometimes this works. Sometimes it does not).
For myself, I would try option B and if that gets the bell back into its hole then I would refer back to steps 1-9.
If option B does not work, I would go with option A. Here is why.
If someday you decide to buy repro plastics, using steps 1-9 will allow you to make the swap by just using a screwdriver.
Some of the above may not make sense to you right now, but if you proceed with your repair all I have said will make sense as you work through your repair.