(Topic ID: 123926)

Catacomb Club

By AlexSMendes

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,400 posts
  • 108 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Tallon
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_4184 (resized).jpg
IMG_4183 (resized).jpg
IMG_4182 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_3458 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3457 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3456 (resized).jpeg
20230124_065850 (resized).jpg
Catacombsnip3 (resized).JPG
Catacombsnip2 (resized).JPG
Catacombsnip (resized).JPG
20230115_134232.jpg
20230115_132630.jpg
20221224_000111 (resized).jpg
IMG_1927 (resized).jpg
IMG_1917 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 1,400 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 28.
#1351 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

Also, the large plastic in the Bagatelle

What is wrong with this plastic on your Cat?

Glad you like my pop caps. They still jazz me 3 years later. If you are doing something similar you might consider lighting them up with the EVO BriteCaps from Pinball Life. I first had LEDs in the light socket but there was an annoying glare. I installed the EVOs and got a real nice light going with these caps now with no glare. You only want to use the white EVOs. I tried the yellow ones and they were fugly.

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

#1352 1 year ago

cottonm4 it is cracked pretty badly. Not affecting the game, just doesn’t look very good. I’ll keep the Evo’s in mind. Fixing a couple little glitches right now.

#1353 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

cottonm4 it is cracked pretty badly. Not affecting the game, just doesn’t look very good. I’ll keep the Evo’s in mind. Fixing a couple little glitches right now.

The lower leg on my left arch plastic has about 5/8" broken off. I don't notice it and would not mind replacing it but several people would need some other pieces of plastics to help spread the costs.

Curious as to how that particular piece got cracked. It makes no sense.

#1354 1 year ago

cottonm4 as you can see…entire corner is missing and is cracked further. Not sure, that way when we received it. That is the worst of the game. Except bottom of back of cabinet, but we don’t see that. Otherwise, in really nice shape. Waiting on boards for LED’s-much better lighting.

792F3FA4-5991-4010-A5E4-5A53A87F7102 (resized).jpeg792F3FA4-5991-4010-A5E4-5A53A87F7102 (resized).jpeg
#1355 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

cottonm4 as you can see…entire corner is missing and is cracked further. Not sure, that way when we received it. That is the worst of the game. Except bottom of back of cabinet, but we don’t see that. Otherwise, in really nice shape. Waiting on boards for LED’s-much better lighting.
[quoted image]

Take a file or some heavy grit sandpaper and smooth the rough areas out. It won't look perfect but it will look a little better.

#1356 1 year ago

@cottonm4
@dawnp
Try posting in this forum for the plastics that you need.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trade-your-plastics

#1357 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

cottonm4 as you can see…entire corner is missing and is cracked further. Not sure, that way when we received it. That is the worst of the game. Except bottom of back of cabinet, but we don’t see that. Otherwise, in really nice shape. Waiting on boards for LED’s-much better lighting.
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Take a file or some heavy grit sandpaper and smooth the rough areas out. It won't look perfect but it will look a little better.

Cheap fix:

1) Get a piece of .030 polycarbonate plastic (lexan).

You have several options on Ebay for .030 poly. You can cut .030 poly with a pair of good scissors.

ebay.com link: sch

This auction would be perfect for you.

ebay.com link: itm

2) Get a can of this spray paint.

13be74014567d62ca6e179c51b441a5f2068a856 (resized).jpg13be74014567d62ca6e179c51b441a5f2068a856 (resized).jpg

3) Cut away the bad material on your broken piece. Cut your piece of .030 to correct size ( I can scan it for you ) and paint it on the backside.

4) Clean up the broken edge of your plastic ( The edge of the crucible make a natural trim line). Mount the .030 behind the broken piece that you trimmed to clean up the broken edge.

It won't be perfect but it will be better than it is.

#1358 1 year ago

One of my friends has one of my repro glass he is interested in selling. The game was sold with the original glass.

#1359 1 year ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

One of my friends has one of my repro glass he is interested in selling. The game was sold with the original glass.

How much is he looking to sell for? I would have to check with hubs to see if he is interested. Ours does have some missing paint at the bottom.

#1360 1 year ago

cottonm4 Is that paint color the same for the cabinet if already painted? (Original paint). I need to do some touch up on the cabinet in places. Haven’t bought any craft paints yet. For the plastic, I might have some poly at work. I might be able to “fix” the plastic by making a template in CAD and cut like you said, along the crucible and make new corner and glue backup piece to it and make it flush on the front.

#1361 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

How much is he looking to sell for? I would have to check with hubs to see if he is interested. Ours does have some missing paint at the bottom.

Hi DawnP if you buy greatwhichs BG I'll buy yours thanks

#1362 1 year ago
Quoted from DawnP:

cottonm4 Is that paint color the same for the cabinet if already painted? (Original paint). I need to do some touch up on the cabinet in places. Haven’t bought any craft paints yet. For the plastic, I might have some poly at work. I might be able to “fix” the plastic by making a template in CAD and cut like you said, along the crucible and make new corner and glue backup piece to it and make it flush on the front.

I got the spray can color from SMP14. Click on the link.

Quoted from SMP14:

Couple of things I'm having issues with, the left flipper button switch is wired to J3-16, which I got. But, it's also wired to J2-1, which I am not sure how that is wired, since J2-1 is on the playfield, do I have to daisy chain this somehow?
Also having issue with the VSU 100 wiring. I can understand everything except "J3 pin 1 to GI buss" ...which GI buss should I connect this to since there are multiple GI Buss labeled in the schematic? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is not the color chip, but I do have a color chip from Walmart that is a very close match to the Catacomb green. Lowes or Home Depot also has a color chip that is a real close match for Catacomb green. I don't know about Walmart but Lowes and HD will mix up paint samples in 4 oz. containers witch might be enough for touch up work. However, I am an automotive paint guy and don't know well these paints work except for painting house walls.

IMG_1832 (resized).JPGIMG_1832 (resized).JPG

Quoted from DawnP:

I might be able to “fix” the plastic by making a template in CAD and cut like you said, along the crucible and make new corner and glue backup piece to it and make it flush on the front.

You really don't need a template. You are just cutting a rectangle with a trimmed corner down in the lower right hand. That trimmed corner is factory so the plastic ball does not get blocked by a sharp corner.

IMG_1833 (resized).JPGIMG_1833 (resized).JPG

You don't need to glue the back up piece. You don't want to glue the backup piece because that will destroy the inks. But you will have to do something different. The plastic is mounted using 5 spacers that around here are referred to as "bells. These are captive spacers. When doing your repair you can use any spacer you want; You are not limited to reusing the bells.

IMG_1834 (resized).JPGIMG_1834 (resized).JPG

These are to facilitate factory assembly. They are swaged to the plastic.

SIDEBAR: If you buy new plastics you will have to remove these bells. So you are not making extra work for yourself by removing these.

If I were doing this job here is how I would do it.

1) Heat the plastic up with a hair dryer to soften it a bit.

2) Carefully rotate and manipulate the bell to pull it from the plastic. Be careful and take time to not mess anything up.

3) I would only remove the 3 lower bells to give a 3-point lockdown for the repair poly. Leave the 2 top bells alone.

4) Cut 3 small pieces of your .030 poly to make 3 or 5 custom washers. Drill a small hole in each washer and run a screw through the holes to make your own threads.

5) Prepare the repair poly by cutting to fit, painting and match drilling 3 holes from where you pulled the bells.

6) Sandwich the repair poly between the factory plastic and a bell. Insert a screw into the factory plastic and the repair poly and a bell.

7) Take on of the custom washers you made and screw it down. You now have made yourself a captive, or captured, screw and spacer. Do this 2 more times. Your repair poly will be located properly and you did not have to use any glue.

8*) This part is optional: Take washers # 4 and #5 and make the two top bells as a captive screw setup. This would be for uniformity only. So your spacing will be even. But we are only talking .030 so this step is not important.

9) Take your now repaired plastic with its captive bells and reinstall.

SIDEBAR #2: When you remove the bells you will see how the swaged area is curled over. You have 3 options.

A). You can sand those curled over areas off.

B) You can take a pair of needle nose pliers and straighten out the curled area so you can get the bel back into correct position. And then refer to Steps 1-9 above.

C) You can heat up the factory plastic and try to weasel the curled area back into its hole (sometimes this works. Sometimes it does not).

For myself, I would try option B and if that gets the bell back into its hole then I would refer back to steps 1-9.

If option B does not work, I would go with option A. Here is why.

If someday you decide to buy repro plastics, using steps 1-9 will allow you to make the swap by just using a screwdriver.

Some of the above may not make sense to you right now, but if you proceed with your repair all I have said will make sense as you work through your repair.

Good Luck

3 weeks later
#1363 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. For the smoke on the glass, there are some Catacomb's with "smoke" on the back glass and some with out. It is not a big deal for game play, but the smoke hides the parts on the back glass that make up the one-way gate.
I have found a local printer who can print these up. But the setup fee is $100.00. If enough Catacomb owners would be interested in a smoke sticker so I could spread the costs. After the setup fee charges each sticker would be around $3.00. If I could get 10 people to commit this could happen for about $13.00 per sticker.
If anyone is interested, please raise your hand.
Thanks
Glass with the smoke.
[quoted image]
And no smoke
[quoted image]

Quoted from TheLaw:

Bro, smoke me up!

Quoted from Jr99svt:

im in for 2 smoke stickers

Quoted from cottonm4:

Hello, #3 and #4.
If I can get one more, that would spread the setup cost five ways. I'm told it will cost around $3.00 for each printed sticker.
For 5 of us, the cost would be around $23-$25 per sticker. I would like cheaper, of course, but I would step up for $25.00 to get my smoke sticker.
Looking for #5.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Is there anybody else who wants a "smoke" sticker for their back glass?
The more the merrier.

Okay. I was able to get something worked up for a decal sticker to add/replace the smoke in the Catacomb back glass. It not 100% but it is real close.

IMG_1928 (resized).jpgIMG_1928 (resized).jpg

IMG_1934 (resized).jpgIMG_1934 (resized).jpg

Here is the original for comparison. The splotches of heavier white are more pronounced, but I can only get what I can get.

Screen Shot 2022-12-19 at 1.36.04 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-12-19 at 1.36.04 PM (resized).jpg

The decal is designed to be installed from the backside of the glass. Application is by marking the ballgate area that is to be hidden. I used masking tape.

IMG_1917 (resized).jpgIMG_1917 (resized).jpg

Then you turn the glass over, peel the decal from the backing paper, and apply the decal inside the area you marked with masking tape.

IMG_1927 (resized).jpgIMG_1927 (resized).jpg

I'll need $17.00 each for them. It will be after the first of the year before I can move on these.

Let me know if you want one.

#1364 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'll need $17.00 each for them. It will be after the first of the year before I can move on these.
Let me know if you want one.

Nice!

I'll take 2.

#1365 1 year ago

Hi, got pretty much everything working on this catacomb, came a very long way. from your guys help I was able to get the bagatelle flipper working.

Few last things. The switches for the bagatelle are very finicky and need to be cleaned and adjusted. The ball sometimes also doesn't really roll over all 3 switches fully. How do these switches work exactly, im moving my finger over them and not all of these switches are working usually only through C and D I've heard noise and the ball ends. Very weird, any help appreciated thanks!

20221224_000111 (resized).jpg20221224_000111 (resized).jpg
#1366 1 year ago
Quoted from SMP14:

Hi, got pretty much everything working on this catacomb, came a very long way. from your guys help I was able to get the bagatelle flipper working.
Few last things. The switches for the bagatelle are very finicky and need to be cleaned and adjusted. The ball sometimes also doesn't really roll over all 3 switches fully. How do these switches work exactly, im moving my finger over them and not all of these switches are working usually only through C and D I've heard noise and the ball ends. Very weird, any help appreciated thanks!
[quoted image]

Nice work !

The switches are blade switches like your inlane and outlane switches. Clean them with the business card if you have not. done so. Check them for proper adjustment.

I have not figured out how they work other then that the top switch in each lane controls which light you scored. Somehow.

#1367 1 year ago
Quoted from SMP14:

The switches for the bagatelle are very finicky and need to be cleaned and adjusted...
How do these switches work exactly, im moving my finger over them and not all of these switches are working usually only through C and D I've heard noise and the ball ends.

The bagatelle switches are a replica of the drop target switches. If you're trying to test the bagatelle switches, make sure all the drop targets are raised so there's no closed switches.

1 week later
#1368 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Nice!
I'll take 2.

I have the smoke decals ready. I have sent you a PM.

I have 3 more decals made up if anybody else wants to hide the ball gate in the Catacomb back glass.

1 week later
#1370 1 year ago

Does anyone have a Catacomb backglass they want to sell?

#1371 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Nice!
I'll take 2.

Great work Cotton! Covers up the posts & rubber nice

20230115_132630.jpg20230115_132630.jpg20230115_134232.jpg20230115_134232.jpg
#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Great work Cotton! Covers up the posts & rubber nice
[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks good. Glad you are happy with it.

#1373 1 year ago

Does anyone have a Catacomb backglass they want to sell?</blockquot

BG Resto reproduces these.

http://bgresto.com/?p=1605

1 week later
#1374 1 year ago

Hey all. I am getting ready to print some Catacomb backglass. I've looked at the repros that are out there and there are some issues I am working to address before going to print. This started with removing some dust and scratches but continues with contrast and sharpening. I'd like to talk to a few people who have an original glass, and those who have spotted the issues with the reproduction.

Fantastic!

Catacombsnip (resized).JPGCatacombsnip (resized).JPG

Catacombsnip2 (resized).JPGCatacombsnip2 (resized).JPG
#1375 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Hey all. I am getting ready to print some Catacomb backglass. I've looked at the repros that are out there and there are some issues I am working to address before going to print. This started with removing some dust and scratches but continues with contrast and sharpening. I'd like to talk to a few people who have an original glass, and those who have spotted the issues with the reproduction.
Fantastic!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I had an original back glass but sold it. It was different than the one you posted. Mine was called a "white glass" I think. It was lighter and the bricks on the wall were more visible. I had a Greatwich back glass but there were printing problems and John bought it back. It was way too dark.

Then I bought this BG Resto back glass. It is still darker than I like.

You need to go with the "after" pic you posted to make the details lighter and more visible.

#1376 1 year ago

I am concerned about this area. IS the original black like this, or was this a damaged glass that was scanned?
Also, I need photos of the back side of an original glass.

Fantastic!

Catacombsnip3 (resized).JPGCatacombsnip3 (resized).JPG
#1377 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I am concerned about this area. IS the original black like this, or was this a damaged glass that was scanned?
Also, I need photos of the back side of an original glass.
Fantastic!
[quoted image]

That area does not look right. I'll get some pics of mine.

#1378 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I am concerned about this area. IS the original black like this, or was this a damaged glass that was scanned?

If you look through the image gallery of this thread you'll see most backglass pictures don't have that lower black area of missing artwork.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/catacomb-club?gallery#g

#1379 1 year ago

The art work is def missing. here is a shot of mine.

20230124_065850 (resized).jpg20230124_065850 (resized).jpg
2 months later
#1380 10 months ago

Recently joined the club after following the thread for some time. The bagatelle ball is not the original and seems to small so I ordered the 1” wood balls recommended earlier in this thread and was wondering the best course to make it white and not wear. Paint white and clear coat? Thanks so much!

#1381 10 months ago
Quoted from Watkinsd13:

Recently joined the club after following the thread for some time. The bagatelle ball is not the original and seems to small so I ordered the 1” wood balls recommended earlier in this thread and was wondering the best course to make it white and not wear. Paint white and clear coat? Thanks so much!

They are yellow from the factory.

1" wooden balls work well. However, they are a little lighter and might have trouble dropping down the columns. In that case you might have to adjust some of the switches to be not as tight. Or, drill a hole into the ball and drop in a couple of BBs, then plug the hole with some wooden dowel.

All you need to do is slop on some spray can paint. Just lay it on some masking tape and spray a little paint on. When it dries, turn it over and spray the other side. And you are done. It is not a high wear item.

1 month later
#1382 9 months ago

I am having an issue with the my catacomb, the trough area in particular. In switch test, all switches are working properly and laying correctly on the little arm bracket in the trough....but the coil isn't firing to let the ball in the shooter lane. All the drop target coils are firing over and over when this happens. The coil works in test. Any ideas on this? Thanks

#1383 9 months ago
Quoted from SMP14:

I am having an issue with the my catacomb, the trough area in particular

Is the MPU original or has it been replaced? Try reseating connector J2 at the top-right on the MPU and see if that makes a difference. If it does, at very least you'll need to re-pin the female connector...

#1384 9 months ago
Quoted from SMP14:

I am having an issue with the my catacomb, the trough area in particular. In switch test, all switches are working properly and laying correctly on the little arm bracket in the trough....but the coil isn't firing to let the ball in the shooter lane. All the drop target coils are firing over and over when this happens. The coil works in test. Any ideas on this? Thanks

Try burnishing the switch contacts with the business card. The switch test works even if dirty contacts might be your problem.

3 months later
#1385 5 months ago

Wondering if there is interest in drop target decals for this machine. I still need to add a few chains, randomness to space between stones and torches.

IMG_3456 (resized).jpegIMG_3456 (resized).jpeg

#1386 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Wondering if there is interest in drop target decals for this machine. I still need to add a few chains, randomness to space between stones and torches.
[quoted image]

I would be. It would depend of what you come up with, though. I like the thought of torches on the targets.

#1387 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I would be. It would depend of what you come up with, though. I like the thought of torches on the targets.

Would you happen to know the exact dimensions of the drop target face?

#1388 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Would you happen to know the exact dimensions of the drop target face?

1.0" high x .80" wide.

#1389 5 months ago

Chains and torches added

IMG_3457 (resized).jpegIMG_3457 (resized).jpegIMG_3458 (resized).jpegIMG_3458 (resized).jpeg
#1390 5 months ago

what dose this target do?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1391 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

what dose this target do?[quoted image]

spots the 2 when it's lit

#1392 5 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

spots the 2 when it's lit

I've played this game once about 4 years ago, anyway you can be slightly more specific. What does spot the 2 do?

#1393 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I've played this game once about 4 years ago, anyway you can be slightly more specific. What does spot the 2 do?

in the matrix table in the center, it will light up the 2 as if you collected it instead of requiring you to hit the drop bank down that has the 2 on it (with the timed motion).

#1394 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Chains and torches added
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would prefer all torches with no chains.

#1395 5 months ago

Thats what she said

#1396 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I would prefer all torches with no chains.

I’ll add 4 more targets. People will be able to choose

1 month later
#1397 4 months ago

Does anyone know a quality match green or paint code for Catacomb?

Thanks.

#1398 4 months ago
Quoted from Chicanelane:

Does anyone know a quality match green or paint code for Catacomb?
Thanks.

This is a custom mix I had made up at Lowes several years ago. I took one of the play field support rails from inside the cab for a match.

If you have a Lowes nearby they might be able to make you a mix. This is a sample size container. They used to sell these for about $4.00. Prices have probably gone up.

IMG_4182 (resized).jpgIMG_4182 (resized).jpg

IMG_4183 (resized).jpgIMG_4183 (resized).jpg

IMG_4184 (resized).jpgIMG_4184 (resized).jpg

If this is not what you are looking for I suggest hitting Lowes or Home Depot or any other paint seller and grab a bunch of color chips to try and find a match for your cabinet.

#1399 4 months ago

Thanks, CottonM4. I appreciate the pic and advice. I will grab some.

Thanks again.

2 weeks later
#1400 3 months ago

I'm looking to do a little art project with a catacomb. anyone who bought a new plastic set or has the plastics for the bagatelle please let me know. cracked and broken are fine, it's for a wall hanger.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 2.99
From: $ 2.25
Playfield - Other
Bob's Pinball Stuff
Other
$ 55.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 10.00
$ 199.95
$ 45.00
$ 45.00
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
20eyes
Cabinet parts
There are 1,400 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 28.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/catacomb-club/page/28 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.