It has arrived.

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The fonts are different. I would have preferred the original. But I won't notice after it installed and ready to play.

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And Joesph Joos signature is a little weak.

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The clear is smooth and shiny. I close my eyes and run my hand across the play field. I cannot feel any inserts. I REALLY like the white inserts they are using. They are sort of a milky white, sort of translucent but not really. They have a soft look to them.

Other than the two minor discrepancies I listed, I do not see any other flaws. I see no need to apply additional clear coats.

The clear is cured. The play field is ready for build up. ( that will be a bit in the future).

I'm happy. I would buy it again.

So there are different versions of backglass. Most people have no problem with my dark version. Over the years with this title about 3% are not happy. So 97% are happy & ok with it. So far I have only heard of a small number with white. The art supplied with my Star Gazer was dark also & I changed it to almost all white. This was the reverse only some had the dark version. Go figure with all the suppliers of glass over the years for all manufacturers of pinball games. There are more choices now for glass with the big guys wanting all the market.

Drop Target "A" does have the red/blue wire. Your action is correct.

My pop bumper switches do NOT have capacitors installed.

Carry on.

John, I just sent you a PM. I need a Catacomb back glass. I'll take one of these you have offered.

Thankyou.
Last mod I hope, I've removed the coil marked "Backbox Playfield" from the playfield schematic - it's actually the bagatelle playfield enable relay which is behind the bagatelle and it's on your bagatelle schematic.

Unfortunately I can no longer change the work in progress playfield schematic in post #1040 so here it is.

Catacomb Playfield schematic

Very nice.

I am going to have to go buy a proper sheet of drawing paper and redo my bagatelle drawing. I have figured out how I can do the lettering and numbering without me trying to do that with my clumsy hand.

EDIT: So I do not sound ungrateful, thank you! for all you have done to clean this drawing up.

responded looks like both are sold. I will let people know if there are anymore. another 2 & 2 seawitch to be printed from the same batch.

Cheers, I'll have to scan and update the lower cabinet schematic with the items that are missing (left flipper bagatelle switch, and speaker/volume control). Maybe next week. Then there's the power/transformer diagram to include the bagatelle power wire, and the backbox wiring diagram.. it doesn't end

Yes, it does not end. The four columns in the backbox need to be addressed. .

While inside the back box rooting around, I see each column has a trip wire that corresponds with each drop target. Bank "C" is triggered by a Y/W wire at the drop target cage and also has a corresponding wire at a Bagatelle column. I have not yet traced the bagatelle wires to their source.

So, when you shoot the bagatelle, one of the three bagatelle switches also resets the drop target.

psyched.

just got my cpr playfield. Ordered a new backglass. In a couple of months, my cat will be heading to the blocks for a full rebuild.

You doing the PCB lighting?

Ya, really thinking about it. Also thinking about doing the alltek led board as well.

Ran into the dimpling issue when I swapped out my flight 2000. so well aware of that issue now, unfortunately.

Get the PCBs. you will not be sorry. Well, at least I am not sorry.

Oh, what a thrill. My best Catacomb score ever. It took playing a lot games to get this score on this short ball time pinball. I lit the Bonus section up twice ! It was a gas.

Previous best score was the other day for 1.5 million.

Catacomb is masterpiece of pinball wizardry.

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sweet score there cotton, think you beat my top score by a little over 100k.

I agree as well, this pin rocks it. So much so that i invested the money to do a rebuild.

Like you, I bought a new play field. And I just bought a Greenwich back glass ( I imagine you bought the other one ). I am going take it up all the way. My problem is my cabinet, while not perfect, is too nice to restore. Maybe if I can find a beater I can swap cabinets and do the cab, too.

Ya, my cab is pretty decent. But if I'm going the playfield and glass. might as well go the full level on the cab as well. hoping i can find someone local to replate the mechs with nickle, not a huge fan of going all chrome.

Thanks Shapeshifter & cottonm4 for the heads up on the CPR Catacomb playfield.
I finally got one... sadly I am a little disappointed on the black line art detail... All the
wisps of smoke lines and dots are missing ; I guess it is better than nothing.

Was wondering if anybody knew where I could get the 1 way gate wireform for the backbox! I search part number w2-6a-308 which is what it is, but it turns up absolutely nothing.

I have made a bunch for several pinsiders. I am out of the type of wire I need to make them. I would have to see if I can buy some more of the correct size wire.

Is your missing?

Yep it is missing. I'd certainly pay for one if you can do it. Even if I manage to find another I'd like to have a backup.

We have a hobby shop that is fairly well supplied. I’ll go shopping tomorrow and see if they have the wire I need.

I can verify cottonm4 ’s product is perfect. Zero issues on my end using it and very grateful to cotton.

i'll second that. i great big thanks to cotton.

Awesome thanks @cottonm4! Let me know!
Now a gameplay question. What does the "add a ball" setting do? I can set it to 0,1,3 or 5. These Stern manuals aren't as good as Bally in terms of setting descriptions & recommended settings.

Has there been any Progress on this part?did you ever hear back from Mantis?

We are in business. I found some wire stock I forgot about. I will need a few days to work this into my schedule but I will be able to make you a pair.

Add-a-ball, I believe is just another way of saying "extra ball". With those dip switches set per the manual you can stack up to 5 extra balls. The most I have ever gotten is 3 extra balls.

I'm not proud. I'll take every extra ball I can get on Catacomb. When it comes to short ball time pins, Catacomb is 2nd to none. It is tougher to play than my Robocop which is a short ball time champion. Getting a killer ball on Catacomb is an adrenaline rush.

Yikes so I'll also just set that to 5 then!
& thanks again, just message me where when they are ready I'll pay & send you my address.

I have heard back from Mantis. He indicated he can probably make them, but there will be set up costs. The thing is is that I should probably just send him my set, but I am afraid they would get lost in the mail. When I have them out of the pin, I treat them as though they are made of gold.

I was trading emails and plans with a guy in Texas and then the virus knocked everything for a loop.

I have my drawings almost finished. I think we were at something like 10 people wanting a set of these gate mounts.

Can everybody that wanted a set of these stand up and be counted again, please?

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Another small mod; For the backless.

On my old back glass, some of the ink had been worn away by the two gate brackets on the displays board. There is no clearance between the two gate brackets and the back glass and I already am starting to see a wear point.

Not wanting a repeat on my new back glass, I added some duct tape as a preventive measure. It is just a little something to provide a barrier between the glass and the brackets.

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Now all you'll have to do is clean your fingerprints off of the plastics and change your rubber then you should be good to go lol. Thanks for my gate wire again.

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My project FG is getting near done thanks to cpr

Not the best pic but this project is done

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Quite some time back I noticed that all of the white numbers on the orange inserts have some kind of action/reaction with the orange dye and the numbers turn orange.

This pattern also exists on the CPR repro play field. I have no idea why the orange color gets sucked up by the numbers. I find it strange. The red, blue, and green colors do not bleed into the white number ink. Only the orange.

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Anyone know what the resistor that goes on the pop switch is?
Gratis

Their is no resistor to any pop switch.
However, their is a diode. 1N4148 or 1N4004?

Uncle Pinball talks Catacomb! Such a strange, kewl game!
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/episode-11-stern-catacomb/id1522361154?i=1000485458642
https://www.podbean.com/media/share/dir-7ete7-99a1006?utm_campaign=w_share_ep&utm_medium=dlink&utm_source=w_share
https://www.buzzsprout.com/1201796/episodes/4634585
https://open.spotify.com/episode/7Do2c0QkYRjYdeJ3QYApTN

This year I had some problems with my dark version backglass. The printer adjusted the file for some banding lines in the cavern. If you have bought one of my Catacomb glass in the past & it bothers you. You can contact me & I will refund the selling price + shipping if you destroy the glass! Hopefully I do not get any requests from outside the USA. Same with anyone who bought it through Marco Specialties (I will take care of it myself).

Jerry here is what I am saying to the guys this year with white background. If you want to keep the glass I will refund everything except $100 US. The printer has fixed the banding area & they will remain dark versions in the future. There is no rush on your part, take your time the rest of the year if you need it. Leave it in the game & if it bothers you let me know by xmas!

I will get you to wait until August when I get some funds in my paypal account. When I do, I would ask you to destroy the glass! You get a good garbage bag, & strike the glass with a hammer until it blows. Wear eye protection. It costs too much money & customs fees + taxes to return. So I will refund all your money for the glass & shipping. What I am looking for is that the glass is tempered (no logo) & should be all tiny pebbles (safety glass). In the past I had a batch that was not tempered right (glass smooth shards). If it breaks (cracks in large pieces that are sharp - the manufacturer has failed!). Thanks

The problem with pictures online is that it does not represent the entire run of a game. The 2 examples prove this. Out of 100 Catacomb glass sold, now about 5 have complained. 4 this year from owners of white versions. The printer corrected the file but it will remain dark.

I am looking for the whole backglass locking mechanism...I know, but it doesn't hurt to ask!

My "Cat"

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Yup, I can do two or three whenever just let me know. Finally starting on stern freefall last week, had a group we were trying to get to ten to get plastics made.... sadly we never made it, no love for the freefall I guess .

Wait, you are saying that you can make these two gate brackets for Catacomb? Am I reading you correctly? There are 2 people I know who need a set of these.

Oh no I can't make them (wish I could). I was just replying, to an older message you had about it. Just saying Id take 2 or 3 depending on how many needed to make 10. Probably be the worst time to mail anything right now anyway.

I have not completely forgotten about this. I have made some drawings, but as I look closer, I am figuring out that these parts are very close tolerance when it comes to matching up with the play field glass. If I measure wrong, or if Kerry did not get them quite right then they would not fit. There is very little space between the back glass and the tops of the brackets. I actually have some paint/ink worn from my back glass due to interference.

So, for complete accuracy I would need to send Kerry my brackets from my Catacomb so he could make his own measurements; And I have nightmares of them getting lost in the mail. So I am stuck. I do not want to be that much of a volunteer

I completely understand, I'd be super paranoid about loosing any unobtanium part in the mail.
Well, if it ever comes to light I'll be in. If not, I'm sure there is more then one way to skin that cat.

so something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/K-S-Precision-Metals-502/dp/B0006MZNAE/ref=sr_1_1

also just for another option, do you know what the approximate thickness is of the metal used.

Yes, this is the wire. $2.50 a stick is a little more than I pay at the local airplane hobby shop, but it is not bad price.

If you don't have Amazon Prime, or cannot get free shipping, this shop sells the same stuff for around $9.00 shipped.

https://www.misterart.com/cart/cart.html

I assume you mean the metal for the gate brackets, correct? I cannot find my working paper but I think the flat material measures .030".

Awesome, yeah I was looking at possible options if I can't get the gate in there to work. I know very little about metal work, but it'd be cool to figure out for future endeavors. Found a couple of metal bending options besides a table vise and hand tools that might work pretty well.
Appreciate it.

Well, share your wealth of knowledge. Don't keep us in suspense.