Talk about putting words in someone's mouth, lol

Recent Catacomb on ebay
just sold for $3550.
A pretty penny indeed.

Bidder 1***k bid $3452.00

Bidder 1***m bid $3500.00

Bidder 1***s won at $3550.00

That means two jilted lovers in the $3500 range are still looking.

So, if you are going to sell your Catacomb, what kind of price will you ask?

You guys are nuts!

But Catacomb is a great game.

It is a close race between ECOSYSTEM-HGSW1242 and Green Verge HGSW1241.

Green Verge looks a little dark next to my paint in the flesh but looks better in the pics. I think is is too dark.
Ecosystem looks better in the flesh and a little bit light in the pics.

Part of the difference is the cabinet semi-gloss and the chip is flat.

Actually, a color somewhere between these two would be perfect.

This is a Lowes paint chip.

If you are located near a large paint and body shop supply store they might have the equipment to make you an order and put it in spray can. It's not cheap. It cost me $20.00 a can for a color I needed to spray. There were no guarantees that the mix would be a perfect match so I had to pay for a 2nd can to get to color dialed in.

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vec-tor quoted @Pinphila's quote of yours.

Have you guys seen that CPR is putting the catacomb playfield in the boutique queue? Just added a commit to it.

Problem here is it could be years before it’s done. Maybe Greatwichjohn or micro could run quicker.

I am open to any Classic Stern playfield art coming my way. Same with backglass art ready to go. Please know I am not a art guy! All stuff has to be ready to print.

lol

Thank you! I will try both of these and see what happens.

I hope you come back and post your findings.

Thank you.

I will. I just emailed a company about making the colors in Aerosols.

One last caution:

Your Catacomb might be a different shade than mine. Different batch of paint, etc. Different living conditions. Mine does not look like it was ever in a smoky bar.

I have 5175

So, I was triaging the game tonight and have the following issues:

1) No controlled lamps. ( used to work but now no )
2) No speech. I do have the other sounds. Ill check the dip switches but I assume it is on.

Where to begin? I am a bally williams guy so these sterns are new to me.

Thanks!

Check the 10amp fuse on the rectifier board. The one on the left. Blown 10 amp fuse = no feature lights.

Di you ever have speech working?

No speech working since I have had it. Again, Ill check the dipswitch on the CPU. There are no hacks on the VSU100.

The main CPU has some battery damage at the bottom but it hasnt spread. Thinking of just replacing the CPU.

Oh, anyone know where to get the coin door stickers. Marco is out.

If you can't repair the acid damage buy one of nvram.weebly mpus for $160 delivered, vs. an Alltek for $200 plus ~$12 S&H. A lot of people in the classic Stern thread are very happy with the nvram.weebly mpu.

Pinball Rescue stocks these and other cool items.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

Double check the sound board and make sure it has the jumper wire on the back.

Also the ribbon cables from the mpu to the sound board are notoriously poor quality. If you buy an mpu from nvram, add a sound card ribbon for $13 (?). He also sells new sound cards for classic Sterns

Will do! Thanks guys!

I did check pinrescue and they dont have the Stern center decal. They have the coin one which is great. Anyone know if they are available?

Marcos has em

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=stern+coin+door+decal

Awesome! Thanks guys! I dont know how I missed it.

I can't imagine how you missed it, either. There are only 75 websites to buy your pin parts from. None of them will have everything you need. Prices are all over the place.

So, now you are walking the virtual mall picking up one item in this store. And another item in that store. In one store, the item you want is on the first shelf at eye level. At the next store, what you are looking for is all the way to the back and way up on top where you can barely see it. One store calls it a bracket while another calls it a mount.

If you do get lucky and find a store that lists everything you are looking for you will see in the small print that three items are out of stock and offer no idea id they will ever be restocked.

I don't know how you missed it, either.

I ran 5 Catacomb glass in the run of 15. Marco Specialties still will wait for 2. If you are interested please pay before mid Feb (glass run coming up). First 5 of 20 glass tempered blanks will be Catacomb. With TPF coming up, April will be glass run next. Only have 1 Seawitch glass. All other glass available mid Feb.

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I've been away from the hobby for a bit, but did anyone else notice that Catacomb playfields are being offered in the "measuring interest" stage on the CPR website? I've emailed indicating I'd be interested in one.

https://classicplayfields.com/preorders/

Yes, but thanks for high lighting it. I expressed my interest some time back. Now, the question would be be do you want the 1 through 16 numbered model, or do you want the A-B-C-D model?

Ditto.

Just an update. Got the speech working...turned out it was a dipswitch setting. Easy.
Not so easy, the feature lights still do not work. The fuse is good.

Green or orange displays?

I have green , they look great , I tune the brightness down a bit too , if not they burn your eyes
The 2.5 million is on a 5 ball game if you were wondering
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Where do you place Catacomb in terms of gameplay with the other games in your pic?

I fancy a Stars and Quicksilver but never played them.

And Cheetah looks interesting.

Yeh, that’s where I am leaning. Are those pinitech?

@Ralph67. Wow, what a nice setup!

Cheers Vec-tor , the line up has changed unfortunately , Since that was taken. Stars Cheetah and Quicksilver have gone to new homes , replaced by Stern Dracula and a Sea Witch

There's differences, but you have to be the type to demand more out of LED displays and their aesthetics.

The new configurations of the Pinitech displays use custom digits I created from the ground up that match plasma displays in orange so completely well that you can literally just swap a single display out and you'll be thrilled with how it looks in your game, alongside the other 4x plasma displays. There's no need to dim the display to make the orange "look closer" to the plasma look. The orange IS the plasma color. The brightness controls the brightness as it should & there's full range on the dimming that transitions smoothly.

But even outside of the orange color, the new custom digits on the Pinitech displays were "hand-drawn" in Photoshop (down to the angles on the segments, the spacing where the segments meet each other, height of the digit, angle of the digit, comma position) to just look better and match the plasmas better. I didn't allow the tooling engineers to take my drawings arbitrarily (believe me, they tried.. multiple times). I actually went back and forth to force them to make the digits match my drawings.. down to the millimeter of spacing on things. So even if you go with another color I'm offering (RED, BLUE, WHITE with color filters) the aesthetics still look "different" than anything else out there.

All this said, you have to be the type of person that is picky with how your displays look. Plenty of people are fine with displays that "work", anything will do from generic digits to plamas that have issues on some segments or flicker but still work. For those people, it may not bother them if they have a few that look different. That's not the market I'm catering my displays toward.

The Pinitech displays are for people that wanted something more from LED displays in these games, high end restorers, people with larger Bally/Stern collections that want the led displays to blend with their line-up that has plasma displays. IMO, you really can't lose for what amounts to an extra $5 or so per individual display DIY Kit (when part of a set) in order to try something new that might just live up to the hype for once. There's incredible value in these sets I think.

I should be demo'ing the Pinitech displays at the Allentown Show this year for anyone that wants to check them out in-person. I'll be in the flea market area (I'm the non-conformist type and enjoy the contrast of having something completely different available in the flea market area). Though mainly it's because I tag along to help my 65yo crazy father with whatever he hauls to the show... people here that know of him *KNOW* what that's about

---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines

Fantastic , didn't realise you went to the trouble to get them to match the look and size of the originals , nice going , I can understand how some people like everything to look perfect , I know a few collectors like that . The pinscore Led's looks like a standard 7 segment Led to me.
I would like a buy your Blue set for my Sea Witch from you , Do you have that set in the single board type or the 2 boards type?
Either set would be okay with me
Regards
Ralph

Yep, hours and hours spent on trying to achieve perfection. It's not for everyone, but for me it's kind of fun at times taking on a challenge and being very detailed about it all -- knowing that the painstaking work will be well worth it in the end when you create something different. The people that see that level of detail will appreciate it and that's fun to hear from those people. And there's people that know it looks nice, are happy with how it looks, but can't quite place their finger on why it looks better -- and that's cool too. That's the fun part of designing that way, everyone benefits.

I have the displays available in orange, red, blue or white digit colors in either model (UNO single-board or the TRADITIONAL 2-board style). They're available as either a DIY Kit or Fully Assembled.

Some more info on them here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pinitech-led-displays-for-classic-bally-stern-plasma-contender

Anyone have any techniques for removing the metal bits as I now have a replacement plastic?

And then putting in to other plastic?

Thanks

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Just ordered a set. Ill have pics up here and Ill have the game at Allentown on floor as well.

I use a heat-gun and warm the plastic. Then pull the bell spacers off the butyrate plastic.
Then,
1) reshape the top flange with a #6 screw or a punch... anything that has a small #6/#5
--screw diameter; it is used to keep the hole round.
2) Use a flat wide nose pliers or any tool to shape the outside lip up and round.
3) Next, carefully test fit the bell space to the plastic holes that are in the new plastic pieces...
4) When the spacer is fitted, you can slightly flare the top lip with a blunt round awl,
-- or a punch tool, or even an old small drill tip.
5) Or leave it alone.

Thanks - I will wait for a rainy day as can see this might take a fair bit of time!

Another option is to use a soldering iron.
1) Hold the iron vertically and slide the bell over the iron until the small opening of the bell rests on the taper of the iron.
2) After 5-10 seconds the plastic will soften.
3) Remove the iron and pull the bell out of the plastic.
4) To reinsert in plastic, place bell over soldering iron again for 15-20 seconds.
5) Remove bell with towel or glove and work the tip into the plastic.
6) After a few seconds the bell will soften the plastic and be able to be pressed in.

Practice the technique on an old plastic until you are comfortable enough to attempt on new plastic.

Thanks - lots of techniques to try. Hopefully soon.

As it happens just this second had my best game so far.

On a 3 ball game, nearly got the grid complete ball 1 and nearly 2 grids in one game.

Finished with over 2.7 million which is going to be tough for me to beat going forward!

Awww...
Well then time to sell!

Too good a game to sell

And now 3 million is the new target. Could be a long time comin!