(Topic ID: 157180)

Casino -- homebrew p-roc project


By rosh

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Tensikka
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    #51 3 years ago

    1/8 may not work, since the 'collars' for the router can be 'taller' than that, you need to be sure the collar is no 'taller' than the template, if it is the router won't sit flat on the template. I don't recall the depth of the collars I ended up using, I think there were three different tempts and some are really tall, but I did not need those. Pretty cure I found 1/8 hardboard was not thick enough, but been awhile so not sure.

    the pieces of wood I was using, where taller than the popsicle sticks, I then had other pieces of the same wood further out to act as spacers when clamping the pieces tougher (later that was not needed as I had the 'strips' from earlier inserts already stapled to the base board that provided that 'balance'.

    As you can see in the photo, I stapled the strips into the baseboard, it is important that those are 'sunk' below the surface so that the template can sit flat when creating it.

    #52 3 years ago

    Last night I 'fitted' all of the inserts. Most had a nice tight fit, the time consuming part is sanding them down. When the playfield was routed it was done so they would sit safely above, easier to sand down then to 'raise' them up. The amount they sit above is greater than you would want when sanding the topside, so, in this first iteration I sand the bottom of the inserts so they are just a hair above the playfield. Sanding the bottom is much easier since less material to remove, plus the top surface of the insert is only so thick, so you can't take sand a ton off of it. I'll probably do some fine tuning of these heights as I go to glue each insert. Than after gluing I will sand the it flat.

    In the photo three inserts are missing, one was missing, but later found, the other two had to be made. I've done one and will hopefully do the other tonight. There is a bad playfield underneath it in the photo, which is why the holes look funny.

    playfield-with-inserts_(resized).png

    #53 3 years ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    I am missing the small white opaque arrow insert, and pinballlife is out of them, so I'll either be switching that to a larger arrow or making the insert myself

    Looks like you got it sorted in a later post;
    but I've had a great success with Star Trek: Mirror Universe; laser cutting the inserts our of acrylic.
    If you want a custom insert; that's the way to do it.

    #54 3 years ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    laser cutting the inserts our of acrylic.

    be nice if I had easy access to laser cutting. The one small insert was easy enough with a belt sander (I did it with white translucent acrylic which matches well with the white opaque inserts). Tonight I'll do the big one, and as long as I am patient it should come out fine. In the meantime, just picked up the epoxy, so time to start glueing inserts.

    #55 3 years ago

    Needed inserts created, all glued, playfield sanded smooth and three coats of lacquer.

    Needs a day or so to dry and then I can start assembly . . .

    sanded_playfield_(resized).jpg

    #56 3 years ago

    I'd love to know what kind of concept art you did for this when planning it out.

    #57 3 years ago

    Awesome!

    #59 3 years ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    be nice if I had easy access to laser cutting. The

    When I finally get my GlowForge at the end of the year (I hope); keep me in mind for future projects and I'll be happy to help you out.

    #60 3 years ago
    Quoted from trunchbull:

    I'd love to know what kind of concept art you did for this when planning it out.

    Not much, the lower area where the multipliers are, will be stacks of ships, the area where the stand-up targets are for craps betting, will shocking be, a craps table. The 'totem pole' of limps will track progress towards victories for each casino game. I'll start to give more thought to the art after this whitewood is built and I decide if I am happy with the game play.

    #61 3 years ago

    Weekend was somewhat productive, of course I did not get everything done I had hoped, but was able to wire up all of the 'standard' switches, meaning rollover and stand-up targets. Also mounted all of the lamp boards and started to wire those up and also put in a few of the mechs, since I wanted to be sure I had placement right before mounting the RGB-LED controller boards. After I get they trough mounted, and sling shots switches wired, I'll start testing the switches.

    Here are some photos of the progress. The first is after switch wiring and lamp boards mounted, the second is after some of the mechs were mounted and wired and some of the lamp wiring was done. You can see in the second photo that the lamp boards towards the bottom of the photo are now wired to the controller with ribbon cables. I'll do a post a little later with more info on the lamp boards.

    IMG_1806_(resized).JPG

    IMG_1808_(resized).JPG

    #62 3 years ago

    The lamp boards I am using on the first PCBs I've designed. The idea was to create a board that could have multiple LEDs on it to minimize wiring and to be able to handle a range of spacing. Most games will have sets of inserts in a row, two, three, four or more, so the goal was to make to these could be done with a single board. The PDB-LED boars that Gerry sales, are design for 84 LEDS or 28 RGB LEDs, and then those are set up as 4 per 20 pin header. so I designed my boards to match that, so that is just a simple ribbon cable connection between his board and my lamp boards.

    Since four in a row is not all that common, I designed the board, so that you could 'snap' off either end and use it as a 'satellite' board. So the main board has a place for a header as does the two snap offs. This then allows two of RGB LED to be located nearby with just a short 4 wire jumper. if you look at the images in my last post, you will see various examples of this. In fact, there is only one case where I am using all four 'slots' as a single board, and that is in the long row of stand-up targets. You will see in the middle of the playfield, where there are five boards using three and a few of them then have the satellite boards. I also have six or seven spots where there are two square inserts and an arrow, so in those cases as well there is typically a nearby satellite board. There are also places were there are two satellite boards.

    In addition, I designed the board that each of the four locations, actually has 5 different locations you can put the LED. This allowed me to handle wide range of spacing between LEDs. I believe I am using 7 different 'spacing' arrangements.

    IMG_1592.JPG_(resized).png

    The boards are designed of the piranha style RGB LED. I also have some standard format RGB LEDs that I expect to use, but have not tested that out yet.

    There are a few tweaks/fixes I would make to the boards in the future, but fortunately there were no show stoppers and the first batch I had made got the job done.

    #63 3 years ago

    Have all of the lamps wired up and working. Will need to go back and sand some of the LEDs to reduce the "hot spots" and to better spread the light. For the larger inserts, I may need to add a second spacer to get enough spread.

    You can see a few of the mechs on the left side have been installed.

    IMG_1813_(resized).JPG

    #64 3 years ago

    What type of LEDs are you using?

    #66 3 years ago

    No graphics first?

    #67 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    What type of LEDs are you using?

    I described the boards I am using above, the piranha style LEDs I got from adafruit.com, since I was purchasing a mini display from them, it was convenient to get them from them. There are other sources and I'm not sure how much difference there is between them. I should have gotten the diffused ones https://www.adafruit.com/products/1451 since I'm now basically sanding them to make them diffused. These are just plain RGB LEDs, not the type with the chips that you use serially.

    Quoted from pinballwil:

    No graphics first?

    Not sure I understand the questions, are you meaning before playfield art or DMD graphics or ???

    #68 3 years ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    I described the boards I am using above, the piranha style LEDs I got from adafruit.com, since I was purchasing a mini display from them, it was convenient to get them from them. There are other sources and I'm not sure how much difference there is between them. I should have gotten the diffused ones https://www.adafruit.com/products/1451 since I'm now basically sanding them to make them diffused. These are just plain RGB LEDs, not the type with the chips that you use serially.

    Not sure I understand the questions, are you meaning before playfield art or DMD graphics or ???

    Any experience with how the 'cone' is on these square base ones vs the bare cylinders?

    #69 3 years ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    I described the boards I am using above, the piranha style LEDs I got from adafruit.com, since I was purchasing a mini display from them, it was convenient to get them from them. There are other sources and I'm not sure how much difference there is between them. I should have gotten the diffused ones https://www.adafruit.com/products/1451 since I'm now basically sanding them to make them diffused. These are just plain RGB LEDs, not the type with the chips that you use serially.

    Not sure I understand the questions, are you meaning before playfield art or DMD graphics or ???

    Before assembling the playfield.
    Your whitewood design was already completed ? ,or not.

    #70 3 years ago

    yes, the whitewood design was completed before assembly, with the exception of some post locations and some mounting points for some mechs, where I wanted to be able to confirm placement. In addition, ball guides, which I just finished installed (photo soon), did not have their post holes drilled when the playfield was routed. That was also done after since it I prefer to be able to have the ball guide positioned appropriately before finalizing mount points.

    #71 3 years ago

    Looks great the whitewood 10 times better than my hand made mc playfield.
    Cant wait to see it in action when completed.

    #72 3 years ago

    I like gambling, I like what you are doing. Good stuff.

    16
    #73 3 years ago

    Ball guides pretty much done. Almost all of them had to be re-done due to the design changes between whitweoods. Right now a few are aluminum since I did not have enough stainless. I do need to make a few adjustments to mount points in one section.

    Also did first testing of the switch matrix, all the installed switches are working except the switches on the pops, which are registering as 'mini drop target 1,2,3', at first I thought I had some odd wiring issue, then I remembered that I had 'moved' them in the config file, since I needed to free up five rows of a column for the drop targets on the mini-playfield I am adding. None of the opto switches have been wired yet.

    IMG_1840_(resized).JPG

    Also most of the mechs are installed (but not all are wired and none are tested), including the four flippers (one is on the mini playfield but the mech is below the main playfield), slings, pops, autofire, trough, magnet, scoop, diverter, two VUKs, as well as the trap door mech (which is really a drop target mech). The underside is getting pretty crowded, I'll take a photo later and post it, and there are still five more mechs to install, as well as one driver board that need to go on the underside. Then there are the two upper playfields, which each have a mech or two.

    Long way to go, but it is starting to look like a pinball machine.

    #74 3 years ago

    Lots of progress going on. Enjoying the pics.

    #75 3 years ago

    Awesome work so far. Super clean and well thought out.

    What are you using as a bracket to attach the ball guides to the playfield? How are they attached to the guides themselves? The stainless strips I am using from McMaster are slightly smaller in width than standard guides. Have you found strips that are a more standard width?

    #76 3 years ago
    Quoted from swedishc:

    Awesome work so far. Super clean and well thought out.
    What are you using as a bracket to attach the ball guides to the playfield? How are they attached to the guides themselves? The stainless strips I am using from McMaster are slightly smaller in width than standard guides. Have you found strips that are a more standard width?

    I just went down to my local metal supply place and asked them for a strip of stainless of the right gauge and width. Only cost a few bucks

    #77 3 years ago
    Quoted from swedishc:

    What are you using as a bracket to attach the ball guides to the playfield? How are they attached to the guides themselves? The stainless strips I am using from McMaster are slightly smaller in width than standard guides. Have you found strips that are a more standard width?

    Mantis is now selling ball guide material, either 3' strips or a set of various sizes or he will cut to spec. http://www.mantisamusements.com/bgkits.htm

    As far as how to attach, I use a combination of the spade bolts as well as L brackets, that Mantis provided with the ball guide material. Right now I am using pop-rivets to attach the brackets and spade bolts, but will eventually change those out to the nice looking rivets (need a rivet press).

    1 week later
    13
    #78 3 years ago

    been too long since last update, but progress has been made. The new mini-playfield for draw poker, that features a small LCD above drop targets has been completed, but will need some fixes. In addition almost all of the ball guides, posts have been installed. Areas not done for that are where I still have mechs to install first. Now that the mini-playfield is securely attached, t he Roulette wheel will be installed next.

    IMG_1859 (resized).jpg

    Below is a photo of the ramps and rails being built -- not by me, not my skill set . Once those are done, I can then mount the dice popper, want to confirm that everything lines up as expected before mounting that. That will need a different mount than in the first white wood, since it has been refined to have a smaller footprint.

    IMG_1258 (resized).JPG

    #79 3 years ago

    so cool! that shot through the pops look TIGHT.

    #80 3 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    so cool! that shot through the pops look TIGHT.

    not as tight as you would think by looking at it, it is just as wide, if not wider, than the scoop shot. It certainly requires some skill to get the right angle on it, not a shot you can make from the lower portion of the flipper. Hitting the red target is bad, since you lose a kickback (green adds one), and no doubt some of the shots that will make it past the opening, if not at the right angle, will end up getting stuck in the pops -- which is a good thing, to many games the pops are meaningless as far as affecting game play.

    casino_45_V4.dwg (resized).png

    #81 3 years ago

    Mini playfield looks cool. Little flippers are so cute!

    #82 3 years ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    Little flippers are so cute!

    contemplated a normal size, but I think you need the mini to have the right level of difficulty. Hopefully it turns out to have just the right amount.

    #83 3 years ago

    You said something about dice rolling; does the upper flipper roll a die instead of hitting a ball? That would be pretty unique.

    #84 3 years ago
    Quoted from BrewinBombers:

    You said something about dice rolling; does the upper flipper roll a die instead of hitting a ball? That would be pretty unique.

    Posts 7 and 15 (I think), in this thread have some info on the 'dice popper', which is sort of like what the game 'trouble' had. But the idea of a flipper to roll the dice is cool. Would need to give it a pretty good jolt to get it to really 'roll' vs just 'slide' and would certainly need more real estate. You would then need a way to bring the dice back to the flipper for the next roll.

    The upper playfield is for playing 'draw poker', (similar to video poker) and blackjack. For poker the display of the drop targets will show the cards, you then hit the drop target for the cards you want to replace. You can then either hit it back out past the targets, to draw cards or you can get bounce it back into the scoop, which will draw cards AND start another hand. If the ball drains past the flipper, the hand ends without drawing cards. At one point I considered still drawing cards at that point, but I got feedback that you should really only win a hand with skill, you should not be awarded by letting the ball drain. Although I may do draw and reward on a drain if you are playing on 'easy' difficulty.

    #85 3 years ago

    I wasn't sure what a "Dice Popper" was (and apparently didn't read carefully!), so I thought maybe it was just what you were calling it. It certainly would have some challenges as you pointed out.

    As someone building a custom machine, your work here is very impressive. Thanks for sharing.

    2 weeks later
    #86 3 years ago

    Progress continues. The roulette wheel has been installed and appears to be working as desired.

    IMG_1868 (resized).jpg

    Also have started to install the ramp and returns, which are in three sections, this photo shows me doing the first fit of the main ramp, it is not attached and I've not put the entrance flap on yet. Have to decide best way to handle switches to detect entry and successfully getting it up the ramp. Now that I have the ramp, I can finish up the ball guides around/below it, as well as install a spinner. Once the ramps are fully installed, I can then do the dice popper.

    IMG_1881 (resized).jpg

    37 Days to expo.

    #87 3 years ago

    Great work. Thanks for sharing.

    #88 3 years ago

    Very excited to see this at EXPO Josh! It looks like great fun!

    #89 3 years ago

    Looking great. If you want, reach out to Jack Danger (deadflip on here in case you weren't familiar) about making that metal guide right below your upper right flipper. He lost his trying to remove it from a game he is re-theming and I'm sure would appreciate some pointers on either finding one or making one.

    This is quite possibly the A+ benchmark for homebrew pinball machines.

    #90 3 years ago

    This looks so cool, you really should be working for a pinball company.

    #91 3 years ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    This looks so cool, you really should be working for a pinball company.

    I'd listen if any of them called

    13
    #92 3 years ago

    Test fitting of ramps and returns (not fully screwed in). Pretty pleased with how they are fitting. Need to now remove them so I can finish up what is under them (there are two more mechs that go under the playfield near the pops and lots of missing posts and rubbers as well as the dice popper). Then I need to make real brackets for the attachment of the rails to the plastic junction as well as add switches.

    Slack for iOS Upload-2 (resized).jpg

    #93 3 years ago

    I'm in awe. Looking great! I cannot wait to see a video of it flipping.

    #94 3 years ago
    Quoted from oohlou:

    I cannot wait to see a video of it flipping.

    Me too!

    #95 3 years ago

    Amazing progress, Josh!

    14
    #96 3 years ago

    Latest and greatest . . .

    Slack for iOS Upload-3 (resized).jpg

    31 days to Expo.

    Now that the ramp diverter, disappearing post and dice popper have been installed, all of solenoids are now wired and working.

    Have tested that the dice popper pops (a little too strong) , but have not tested the camera since the popper was installed. This new version of the popper has a base that is more compact and gives it a cleaner and more open look then the original, which you can see in this old test clip. In addition the floor of the popper is designed a little differently, that gives better action and also eliminates the chance of the plastic cylinder contacting the floor. Still need to add a bracket to hold the cylinder/camera assembly in place.

    Old version of popper . . .

    Lots and lots of little bits of construction left, but I think all of the major stuff is done. A few areas of concern, but not too many and none that seem unworkable.

    A few missing switches, but will probably not worry about those until after Expo, since I can use other switches to compensate. Need to get focused on most critical needs as well as the software. Massive amount of work still to have it playable with software that is at least as complete as when Stern ships a new game

    #97 3 years ago

    It looks like the dice popper seems to be blocking the view of a fair amount of activity. Have you considered putting it on the right side of the playfield over the end of the shooter lane near the flipper where there isn't a whole lot of stuff going on?

    #98 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    It looks like the dice popper seems to be blocking the view of a fair amount of activity.

    I Have a little concern with that, but when the playfield is in the cabinet and at the right pitch (right now sitting higher and slightly flatter than it would be), I think it will be fine, and it should not be blocking very much other than possibly the exit from the vuk -- well, that is my hope. The flipper on the mini-playfield is clearly visible. Down below it is blocking the view of exit from the mini playfield and the view of part of the pop bumpers, but certainly not a critical thing and pretty common in many games to not see all of the pop activity, regardless, in neither case would that impact the ability of the player to make shots.

    The issue with moving it to where you suggest, which I did consider, is that the closer it moves down towards the flippers, the big the issue with clearance with the glass. I'm already concerned with the current location as far as clearance and may have to cut down the cylinder, but that opens up a huge can of worms I really, really hope to avoid. If it was above that upper right flipper, it would interfere with the view of the ball feeding to that flipper. There is also a plan for a non interactive toy to go over the magnet area.

    #99 3 years ago

    Could you flip it over so the camera is on the bottom? Maybe use one-way glass to hide the lens?

    [edit]: Eh, maybe not. It would probably look strange without the standard green felt surface.

    #100 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Could you flip it over so the camera is on the bottom? Maybe use one-way glass to hide the lens?
    [edit]: Eh, maybe not. It would probably look strange without the standard green felt surface.

    The green felt is kind of key for the overall look as you commented, with the real red vegas dice (the outer portion will be felted as well), A big challenge with moving it below would be the clearance underneath for the ball to bang around the pops, the whole mech would have to move up to have room for the camera, which then defeats the purpose of putting it below, although I guess it could below the playfield and have a clear window through the playfield to a clear bottom of the opper. Plus it would be very, very difficult to find a camera that would have a wide enough field of view and be able to focus at that close a distance (the one I am using was custom made to handle it).

    The other issue is there is a mech that does the popping, that 'hits' the floor right in the middle to make it pop which would block the camera view, so a new method would be needed. The mech is basically a lever that is triggered via a control rod near the stand-up targets that gets pulled from by a solenoid, this offset leaves the space under the popper clear.

    I've looked at lot of different options and suggestions and so far the current method has been the best option. Time will tell if the view obstruction is a real issue/concern or not. Hopefully not

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