do you have a print for it? they both are more than likely a dirty or gapped switch

Not sure if this is the same on a 2 player schematic layout.
On my Royal Flush (4p version) it shows that if the KX relay is made activating the J relay via a m&b as the culprit,which also activates the double bonus light too.

KX relay = interlock double bonus relay.
Contacts for it are: 1A = 1 open contact switch @ double bonus light snip.
1B =1 closed contact switch @ 3/5 ball adj snip.
1C =1 m&b contact. @ vicinity of the J relay snip.

J (As) relay = double bonus score control relay.
If its the same as the Card Whiz adjust as necessary.

Kx dbl.JPG
RF KX relay.JPG
KX make and break.JPG

pin has it, I have the pdf print.
the dbl bonus light is the normally open switch on KX white black wire- yellow wire
the double bonus score is the make break switch on kx yellow blue wire - brown black wire
check the KX relay to make sure it is moving freely and then manually flex it to make sure the switch blades are in the armature correct. the switch might look like it is making contact but isn't ..... put a meter on it

Can you please send me a copy, i'll Pm my email.

In response to the lights that did not work:

A quick check for testing lights/bases that dont light ,is to use a 9 volt battery as seen below.
Sometimes if a lot of lights are in series it will not always shine brightly,but good enough for a quick test w/o a meter and leads getting in the way.
Also use it on bulbs too. Orientation doesnt matter, making sure machine is off/unplugged to be safe matters though.

9V Bulb test (450x253).jpg

MORE PROBLEMS?

let me know i will try to help.
Did you let bordens know you are having issues?

1.) Lamp socket in pop bumper held together with electric tape. (Fixed by soldering it down) (WTF?!)
lamp sockets on later games had plastic tubing to protect the lamp socket legs from touching the metal PB frame, maybe it was put there to stop a ground?

2.) Socket not working that is supposed to light up behind the "300 when lit" (Fixed by soldering in a new socket)
ok

3.) Socket under hole kickout not lighting up when all 3 jokers are collected. (I installed a new socket and it still doesn't light up...Most likely a contact is not touching another contact in a relay on the underside of the playfield)
by the print i think that it lights when kings OR jacks are collected 5B relay blue-white wire
or kings AND jacks are collected white-blue whire on both 5B AND 4B

4.) Green lights in outlane not lighting up when green joker is collected. (Fixed by adjusting contact under playfield)
ok
5.) Ball swirls all in the yellow paint,red paint and black paint on the playfield. (Fixed with Magic Eraser and Simple Green..Looks nice now but should not have been shipped to me with all these ball swirls)
I AGREE 100%
6.) Double Bonus light was on for all 5 balls. ( Fixed...two wires solder tabs on the KX relay were touching each other..bent the solder tabs back out so they wouldn't touch anymore)

7.) Double Bonus on the 5th ball would give the bonus for 1000,2000 and 3000, on 4000 and 5000 it would only give a single bonus and sometimes it would skip the 4000 bonus altogether. I cleaned all the contacts on the KX relay and then the following happened....5th ball drains and the 1000 bonus would repeat itself over and over until I shut the machine off. Instead of trying to clean and adjust the KX relay again I did the following....(see #8)

8.) Cleaned and adjusted the regular bonus relay (E relay) after doing this now everything in that relay is out of whack and and not adjusted correctly. Now when I turn on the machine when I hit the drop targets no scoring sounds and bonus 4000 light lights up and repeated gives me a 4000 bonus until I turn off the machine.
E relay has 5 N.O. switches my pdf print is missing a section around that area so I can not see the full print.

9.) Backglass had some flaky sockets. 2 or 3 of them. (Fixed...I changed all the bulbs no matter what they were some were very old crust GE brand #44 bulbs and some were newer Aiko #44's. I changed every bulb in the machine on the playfield, under the playfield and behind the back glass with #47 bulbs.)
not everyone changes all the bulbs out, they atleast should of tumbleled them like i do. I still use 44's IMO the machine in home use is never on long enough to do any real damage.

10.) Some Rubbers on the machine are starting to crack. Luckily I have a rubber kit for it and various spare sizes of rubbers. I will re-rubber it this weekend
they should of put a fresh set on they day it went out.

Dan I think for what you paid you should atleast let them know all the issues you had. they offered it as a collector quality machine and it should of been one when you got it.
I sold you the slick chick as a very nice example not as a collector quality and from what you have stated the card whiz was far less than the slick chick.
these companies that resell EM machines at super prices are only hurting them when they sell sub par machines at 10x profit

Your drop targets have two sets of contacts. One momentary contact, which is off and then on and scores your points. These contacts ALL pull in the X relay. These are all fed through your motor 1C switch stack. The switch with the YEL-BLK and RED-WH wires on it. The X relay is then locked in by it's own switch, which is fed through motor 2B with the GR-WH and RED-WH wires on it. Both of these switched on the motor are normally closed, which is often a problem.

Quite frankly though, the path from the drop targets to the 500 point relay isn't clear to me, so I sent out a note and the schematic to the rest of Team-EM. Hopefully, I'll hear something back.

OK, I misread the score card. You are supposed to get the HOLE VALUE not 500 points. Here is what I got back from Steve Yates, another member of team EM:

Note: I had supplied a schematic that I had a scan of missing a small (important) part. On my complete Royal Flush schematic, that is a NC Motor 2C.

"Hi Todd,

I don't think the drop targets are supposed to score 500 points. According to the score cards on IPDB, the drop targets score the hole value.

The Hole Relay (G) is triggered by the hole switch or by a switch in the X Relay. Does the Hole score correctly? If so, the problem is in that X relay switch. If not, the problem is in some circuitry that is missing in the attached schematic, but that would probably mean the ball would never make it to the shooter either so I'd look at the X Relay switch with the .Yellow-Blue and Slate-White wires.

Steve"

So, if the hole scores good, check the X relay.

Personally, I think you have a few problems going on and they are not all related via one root cause. When I am bringing a game up to speed, I work on getting it to "boot", or go through the start sequence then I work on scoring issues and go on to tweak any remaining performance issues. I think we should address this first:

Is your O relay pulling in when you put the ball in the out hole?

If not, Is your A relay energized for some reason?

If your A relay is energized, are there some relays active in the sequence bank?

Write back please and we can go from there. If worse comes to worse PM me and it may be worth a phone call. I'm on EST. Thanks.