(Topic ID: 323227)

Captain Fantastic startup help

By BubbaK

8 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by BubbaK
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
motorboard (resized).jpg
fuse area (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
coin door wiring photo (resized).jpg
coin door wiring (resized).jpg

#1 8 months ago

I'm working on my first Bally machine. I replaced the replay unit in the machine and I still have some questions about that. I think it should be good enough to work for now. My bigger issue right now is the coin door wiring. I did some searching and found some threads with the same issues I have, but I didn't find good enough pictures. I found some coin door schematics in one of the threads, but I have no idea what type of coin door I have or how to tell. My machine has 2 coin slots in the 1 and 3 position. Both entry plates say 25 cent for 2 plays. The wires on the 3rd coin switch are broken off the switch. There are more wires than switch terminals. I put a new switch on, but want to verify wiring.

For slot 3, I have a Red (C), Y-Bla (NO), Wh (NC) and Wh-Blu hanging. For slot 1, I have Red(NC), then I have double yellow and double yellow-Bla and double Wh-Blu all hanging. The one schematic I found I think is correct says Type #10 Door with 2 Chutes.

Is any of this necessary to start a game if there are credits on the wheel?

coin door wiring (resized).jpgcoin door wiring (resized).jpgcoin door wiring photo (resized).jpgcoin door wiring photo (resized).jpg

#2 8 months ago

Do you plan on using a coin every time you need to add credits to this machine? If not, I would just set it to free play and not worry about the coin door. Saves a lot of potential problems, now and in the future.

#3 8 months ago
Quoted from edednedy:

Do you plan on using a coin every time you need to add credits to this machine? If not, I would just set it to free play and not worry about the coin door. Saves a lot of potential problems, now and in the future.

I'd prefer that. I don't need to use coins. I can just tape off these wires for now? To set on freeplay is just with the replay unit?

#4 8 months ago

But yes, coin switch wiring is needed to allow the score motor to function. See the NC contacts on the coin switches, 3 chutes, there would be a 3 NC inline.

If you are not concerned with coin switch function then put a jumper on the back of the door jones plug from white to yellow... I do

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#5 8 months ago

Congrats on the Capt!

Bally’s are very similar to William’s.

#6 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Congrats on the Capt!
Bally’s are very similar to William’s.

Thanks.. I wish it was similar to Gottlieb.. I'm lost with this thing right now. I did get it to come alive though, so I'm feeling a bit better. I've got a long road ahead on this one though.

#7 8 months ago

Ok.. so I have the yellow to white jumped on the coin door jones plug and that got the score motor moving. I was able to get the game to sort of reset. Score reels reset, but the drop targets didn't. A credit was taken off the credit meter and the game started. Automatically though, it continued adding players until it was a 4 player game even with only 1 credit on the replay unit. The coin unit and replay unit keep pulsing. The ball did kick out, and I was able to score points. It seems as though the playfield works and scores. The game does play and score. When the ball drains, bonus counts down and appears to score correctly. Its kicks out the next ball. Sometimes, it shows game over during the reset and it kicks the ball out and then starts scoring again. Its currently set up for 3 ball, and after 3 balls, it does seem to end the game. The motorboard is flithy to where I can't read most of the relay labels. I was hoping to get the game running before I stripped it, but not sure how much further I'm going to get without giving it a good cleaning.

I'm going to go through the startup procedure in the manual and see if I can see anything. Any suggestions are appreciated.

#8 8 months ago

Same ole stuff, if it’s been neglected I just tear ‘em down and clean everything.

#9 8 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

Ok.. so I have the yellow to white jumped on the coin door jones plug and that got the score motor moving. I was able to get the game to sort of reset. Score reels reset, but the drop targets didn't. A credit was taken off the credit meter and the game started. Automatically though, it continued adding players until it was a 4 player game even with only 1 credit on the replay unit. The coin unit and replay unit keep pulsing. The ball did kick out, and I was able to score points. It seems as though the playfield works and scores. The game does play and score. When the ball drains, bonus counts down and appears to score correctly. Its kicks out the next ball. Sometimes, it shows game over during the reset and it kicks the ball out and then starts scoring again. Its currently set up for 3 ball, and after 3 balls, it does seem to end the game. The motorboard is flithy to where I can't read most of the relay labels. I was hoping to get the game running before I stripped it, but not sure how much further I'm going to get without giving it a good cleaning.
I'm going to go through the startup procedure in the manual and see if I can see anything. Any suggestions are appreciated.

if it keeps adding players... you may have a coin switch stuck...

#10 8 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

if it keeps adding players... you may have a coin switch stuck...

Thanks.. That brings me back to my original problem with wires all buggered up on the coin switches. I currently have a jumper between the yellow and white wires on the back of the jones plug and jones plug plugged in. For some reason a pair of wires was run from the 3rd coin shoot coil to the game counter with the original wires cut and capped. The whole start up area is a mess. Here is one that may be a clue..

From the fuse block a yellow wire was put directly to the white-green wire. I can see where white-green was cut off under the fuse block and a different wire was spliced in. I just had the schematics printed today and haven't looked at them yet.

The radioshack speaker wire is the wire from the 3rd coin chute relay coil to the counter.
fuse area (resized).jpgfuse area (resized).jpg

#11 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Same ole stuff, if it’s been neglected I just tear ‘em down and clean everything.

The machine is filthy. Not sure if this is just funk or black mold? Its finely powdered, doesn't smear when you wipe it. It doesn't appear to be soot. I'm afraid to use compressed air in the basement. When I remove the motorboard I'll have to blow it off outside and see what it looks like.

motorboard (resized).jpgmotorboard (resized).jpg
#12 8 months ago

That good old EM grime. It gets in all the coil sleeves, steppers, pivot points.

When you get it cleaned up it’ll run like a clock again.

Low pressure air is a good idea. But I wouldn’t do it indoors either.

#13 8 months ago

I was able to find some coin door wiring info and happy to say the door is working. When I trigger either coin switch, the game automatically starts, goes through reset (no DT reset yet), and adds players. The credit relay does not release after each add, which in turn fires the add player and subtract credit continuously. Not sure what breaks that cycle. I'm going to do some comparing of the jones plug coin settings next. Any suggestions are welcome. I just had the schematics printed but I haven't opened them yet.

#14 8 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

The credit relay does not release after each add, which in turn fires the add player and subtract credit continuously. Not sure what breaks that cycle.

Check that these switches on the score motor are opening when they should.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#15 8 months ago

Thanks HowardR .. I'll give it a look tonight.

#16 8 months ago

I played with the game a bit tonight. I cleaned the motor switches in HowardR drawing and they look to be opening and closing appropriately. I now have it that the game will start with the flick of the coin switch. It immediately starts a game, which I didn't think is supposed to happen. I have credits on the wheel, but the replay button doesn't always start a game - coin switch does though. Pressing the replay button actuates the credit relay, but doesn't add a credit to the wheel. I did replace the replay unit and I while I believe the switches are wired correctly, I'm not positive. Sometimes the game will play all 3 balls and game over, other times it doesn't kick out the ball after ball 1. I'd like to get it to basically work from start to finish then I'll put it in line for a full refurb to fix the rest of it.

#17 8 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

other times it doesn't kick out the ball after ball 1.

Does it count the bonus when this happens?

#18 8 months ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Does it count the bonus when this happens?

It did not. I cant say for sure that I had any bonus at the time.

#19 8 months ago

OK.. There is no bonus at the end of the ball. Almost as if the switch doesn't even know a ball is there. It did work until I messed with the score motor. I played around with the bonus up and down plungers and at one point, the score motor ran a short bit and still didn't kick the ball. I'm really thinking score motor issue. I did look at the schematic a bit and I've got to learn how to read it. I can somewhat figure out Gottliebs, but this one is confusing me so far.

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

There is no bonus at the end of the ball. Almost as if the switch doesn't even know a ball is there. It did work until I messed with the score motor.

If the Outhole switch doesn't activate the Bonus Score relay, starting with the 1D score motor switch,
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#21 8 months ago

Thanks HowardR .. I'll give that a look tonight.

#22 8 months ago

I played around with this a bit today and I'm going further backwards. I'm going to stop on it for now until I get around to pulling it apart and going through everything properly. The game is a filthy mess.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
From: $ 12.99
Cabinet - Other
The Pinball Scientist
Other
$ 22.50
Magazines/books
Pinball Magazine
Magazines/books
$ 52.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
2,000
Machine - For Sale
Harrisburg, PA
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
1,100 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Albuquerque, NM

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/captain-fantastic-startup-help?hl=bubbak and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.