(Topic ID: 110205)

Captain Fantastic: Lots of stuff not working

By UvulaBob

9 years ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

I was working on a Captain Fantastic for a friend, and the initial problem was that none of the lights in the game would work. No GI, no insert lights. The game played fine otherwise. After some poking around, I found a connector with a burnt pin right next to the plumb bob.

IMG_1957.JPGIMG_1957.JPG

At the recommendation of another pinball tech, I cut the wire from the pin and soldered it directly to the lug on the female side of the connector. That worked for a while, but then things started flaking out again. We didn't do any more work on it other than cleaning and re-seating all the various connectors, but by the time we were done, we had no GI, no playfield lamps, no flippers, no pop bumpers, so slingshots, and little to no scoring from switches. The credit knocker still worked when we would manually trigger the coin switch, and the drop targets would reset when all were knocked down.

I don't really know enough about how EMs work to be able to know where to isolate the problem. It has to be centrally located. I have the schematic, but it doesn't quite help me get a general idea about how an EM actually works.

The guide on pinrepair.com (as well as most guides) tend to go over the scoring reels and stepper units, which is understandable. But while I have an understanding of how special solenoids and GI work on solid state machines, I'm still a bit in the dark about how they work on an EM.

Can anyone give me some advice, or at least a quick course in how these various circuits work?

#2 9 years ago

This is probably more to bump your post. I've just started work on a basically TRASHED woodrail EM pin. But my first problem was similar. My GI would only come on briefly and then shut down. Looking at your schematic, this game is a little different - but the electronic principles are all thes same. When you say no GI, does that also include no GI in the coin door and playfield? The GI current created at the transformer passes through two 15A fuses in two main branches, that are further subdivided into distinct GI branch circuits, some of which are on all the time, and some that are operated by relay switches (so, like in a solid state game - these would be your controlled lamps).

So my first question that I have asked is important in determining where you might start to look for the problem. With no illumination at all, I would start with a DMM to look for GI voltage from each side of the fuses and back to the transformer pins 8 & 10. If you have partial GI, such as the coin door, panel or inserts, will help to figure out where you might look next.

I don't know how much that helps, but good luck.

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#3 9 years ago

Could be your fuse holders as they are notoriously bad and will give the problems your having.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm section 2a.

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Could be your fuse holders as they are notoriously bad and will give the problems your having.

This! I replaced the fuse block on my Cap for much better results

you could use a dmm to test continuity to verify

--Jeff

#5 9 years ago

Check the jones plugs that go from the playfield to the relay board also the Bally jones plugs are another weak point.

#6 9 years ago

When I test the fuse clips near the front-left of the cabinet, I get continuity between them, regardless of whether or not a fuse is in the clip. I have heard that this is normal. That seems weird to me, considering what the point of a fuse is.

Anyway, with fuses in the clips, and me testing the fuses themselves while in the clips, I get solid continuity. I don't think the clips are the problem.

Let's assume that anything that plugs into something else has been checked for burns and bad connectivity, which is how I found the initial burned pin on the front-left connecter by the plumb bob.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from UvulaBob:

When I test the fuse clips near the front-left of the cabinet, I get continuity between them, regardless of whether or not a fuse is in the clip. I have heard that this is normal. That seems weird to me, considering what the point of a fuse is.
Anyway, with fuses in the clips, and me testing the fuses themselves while in the clips, I get solid continuity. I don't think the clips are the problem.
Let's assume that anything that plugs into something else has been checked for burns and bad connectivity, which is how I found the initial burned pin on the front-left connecter by the plumb bob.

OK, you tested for continuity, that's fine - but was the electricity actually getting there? Did you measure for the presence of AC voltage at each fuse clip? Time to use the AC volts setting and find where your voltages are present and where they are not present. That should get you in the ballpark as to where they might be lost.

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