(Topic ID: 65136)

Capcom Breakshot DMD voltage trouble shooting(FIXED!!)

By Gov

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 26 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by earflaps
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

Today I picked up a Capcom Breakshot off of CL. It has been sitting in a shed for who knows how long. It wasn't booting or doing anything when we got it home, only the GI came on. After going over the connections and replacing a few fuses, the game boots and plays. All switches, solenoids seem to work just fine, as does the sound.

What doesn't work is the DMD and the controlled lamps under the inserts. The "GI" string of lights is working just fine as are the flashers.

First the DMD. The DMD is dead as a hammer. I have not checked in another game yet, as I do not have another DMD in the house. I pulled up the schematic and started checking voltages on the DMD power supply. The +5v is just fine, but the 18v on two of the pins coming from the main driver board is non-existent. I have checked the plug on the driver board and there are 0v where 18v should be. Looking at the schematic, both 18v lines should run through C97. Problem is, there is no capacitor at C97. There is a spot for it, but nothing there. It doesn't look like there has ever been a cap there, but I could be wrong. From looking at the picture below, pulled from IPDB, there doesn't appear to be a cap there on any machine. So, tracing back it goes through D33 and R412 before it gets to LED2 on the driver board. LED2 is lit, so I am assuming it is getting the correct voltage. Neither D33 or R412 look burned up. Could one of these two components be my problem, or am I misreading all of this? Like I said, everything except the DMD and controlled insert lamps is working fine.

The insert lamps are not working at all. I have wiggled and jiggled every wire I could find to see if there is a loose connection issue, but nothing works. It seems to be all of the lamps connected to the "orange" connector on the middle left of the driver board. Is this most likely a board issue?

Thank you for any help anybody can provide.

GOV

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#2 10 years ago

Does breakshot have controlled lamps vs. GI? Or are they just on the other side of the matrix?
Make sure the board is grounded right off the bat. I lost months of my life to just that.

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Does breakshot have controlled lamps vs. GI?

Capcom pins have all controlled lamps, no GI.

LTG : )

#4 10 years ago

And no batteries.

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Does breakshot have controlled lamps vs. GI? Or are they just on the other side of the matrix?
Make sure the board is grounded right off the bat. I lost months of my life to just that.

Right, they are just one side of the matrix, that is why I used the quotes above What is the best way to check the ground on the board?

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

And no batteries.

NVRAM works great

Quoted from Gov:

Right, they are just one side of the matrix, that is why I used the quotes above What is the best way to check the ground on the board?

Uff jesus...hmmm....I would just check every ground around the whole board again & again. I just had a crap time with it.

You can look thru some of my old threads with this very problem. Lots of useful tips from PDMAN & LTG. Sorry i can't help more now...GF is loooking at me pissed supossed to be looking into wedding crap.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finallt-got-my-pinball-magic-power-driver-board-repaired

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-me-understand-this-lighting-schematic-please

EDIT: I mean wedding GREAT new pinball

EDIT 2: I mean WEDDING GREAT JUST PLAIN WEDDING STUFF

#8 10 years ago

I think you have a bad feedthrough from one side of the board to the other, under the big capacitor(s). Worked on 2 recently for that issue and it affected power to the DMD.

The majority of the weight of the capacitors setting so far away from the board puts a big strain on the solder joints and eventually damages the feedthrough. Suggest removing the suspected 2 capacitors in the circuit and use some solder wick to connect the traces between the top and bottom of the board.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I think you have a bad feedthrough from one side of the board to the other, under the big capacitor(s). Worked on 2 recently for that issue and it affected power to the DMD.
The majority of the weight of the capacitors setting so far away from the board puts a big strain on the solder joints and eventually damages the feedthrough. Suggest removing the suspected 2 capacitors in the circuit and use some solder wick to connect the traces between the top and bottom of the board.

Sounds like a good place to start. Looks like the circuit does run through C1 and C2.

#10 10 years ago

Probably would be good to follow the traces throughout that circuit.
A trace could actually be broken elsewhere as well or instead of under the capacitors.

#11 10 years ago

Exact same thing happened to my Breakshot.

(http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-breakshot-game-works-but-dmd-and-pf-lamps-are-out)

Board is out to Rob Anthony, and his feeling was that it is the big capacitors on the board. Hopefully, I'll get the PCB back at Expo, and can tell you if that was the real issue.

Pete

#12 10 years ago

Thanks Pete. I might just order those caps and replace them anyways to see if that works.

#13 10 years ago

Suspect the traces first over the capacitors. Hard to find replacement capacitors that value that are shorter.

#14 10 years ago

Traces all 'look' fine but I didn't do any continuity testing tonight. I did go ahead and reflow the solder on the caps, but no go. I don't like double sided boards, at least when working on them.

#15 10 years ago

Problem would be from top side to bottom side of the board under the capacitors.
It will take an ohmmeter to 'see' the problem. The capacitors are such a tight fit that the feedthrough usually gets damaged just from forcing the capacitor out. Have to heat up one pin and pull it out a small bit at a time, go to the other, and repeat slowly.

#16 10 years ago

Ya, I kind of tried to get one of them out, but I wasn't successful so i stopped before I broke anything. Not a fun task at all.

#17 10 years ago

Is there a way to 'test' a bridge rectifier? That circuit also passes through BR2.

#18 10 years ago

Test the traces out first in the circuit. It is the common failure of the board.

2 months later
#19 10 years ago

I just wanted to update this to say that my Breakshot is now fully working! It was indeed the traces on the big caps that were broken from the front side to the back side of the board. With the help of my dad we did some hillbilly wiring and got it completely working! Even though it looks a bit weird, it is probably better than it was as I have the caps zip tied to the heat sink next to them to keep gravity from breaking those traces again. I am pretty excited that it works now!! So much more fun to play when you can see the score

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#21 10 years ago

Well done Gov now come fix my James Bond!

#22 10 years ago

I know what is wrong with your James Bond, it has a Christmas Tree in front of it.

#23 10 years ago

Congratulations on getting it working. That actually is not a bad idea. The weight of the caps will continue to be a problem the way they were mounted to the board. I may do the same thing with my friend's machine when it happens again. Thank you for reporting back.

#24 10 years ago

That's just Christmas Jones from the world is not enough, she only comes once a year....

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Congratulations on getting it working. That actually is not a bad idea. The weight of the caps will continue to be a problem the way they were mounted to the board. I may do the same thing with my friend's machine when it happens again. Thank you for reporting back.

Yes, and with the wire there if the caps do move it will just bend the wire a bit and not put pressure on the solder joints. Hillbilly bulletproofing! BOOM!

4 years later
#26 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I think you have a bad feedthrough from one side of the board to the other, under the big capacitor(s). Worked on 2 recently for that issue and it affected power to the DMD.
The majority of the weight of the capacitors setting so far away from the board puts a big strain on the solder joints and eventually damages the feedthrough. Suggest removing the suspected 2 capacitors in the circuit and use some solder wick to connect the traces between the top and bottom of the board.

Thought I would try this nifty little hack. Finished it all up, hot glued the caps in place, plugged it all back in and my voltages are still out of wack...ugh. I end up with 77V on most of my solenoids out to the playfield and 2 volts on others that should have 50V. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't connect one leg on one of the capacitors on the backside. In the picture, you can see a green square where I cut back the foil and put some green PCB board paint on it. The hole was damaged by heat in removing the capacitor and it was logical to me that both legs of the capacitor would be connected on the same pad. Does anyone have a good pic of this as I can't seem to find the schematic?

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