I've gone through several hours of prep and research before going ahead with this fix so I thought there might be some value in sharing it and perhaps saving someone a bit of time and misery. I realize not everyone will have the tools to do this so keep that in mind before you start.

Problem: Breakshot game I recently acquired was in bad shape and needed several fixes. However, the first issue I had to deal with was that it was randomly squawking then rebooting. Based on what everyone was saying, the weight of the giant capacitors had de-laminated from the underside of the board. A simple re-flow of the solder proved to fix it but I knew it would only be temporary so I went ahead with a more permanent fix....this is what I did (below).

Removing the Capacitors:
This proved to be rather difficult as my Hakko 702b is a bit long in the tooth and required a little help from an additional soldering iron. It seemed that the solder was old and wouldn't let go of the capacitor legs very easily. It required that I use an additional soldering iron on the hottest setting then quickly slide in the desoldering gun to get the solder fluid enough to pull off the legs. That still needed some manipulation with small side cutters and from the backside by wiggling the legs until they broke free. A couple of the more stubborn ones needed some additional heat as I worked it out...but you first need one leg free before attempting that.

Possible alternative method might be 2 soldering irons applied simultaneously to each leg while working the capacitor out. Of course your going to need a helper for this method. I've never tried it but in theory it should work.

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Retrofitting Through Holes:
In some of my reading, I had come across the Desoldering Wick Trick to fix through holes. This definitely requires some jeweler's glasses or a good stationary magnifying glass. Your first step should be to take several pictures of your Power Driver Board close up and on both sides...don't forget this like I did!

Secondly, I carefully made the holes bigger with a 3/16" drill bit. As you can see in the image below, the legs of the capacitors are flat and angled. Hold them up to the board and figure the best way to angle the 2mm Desoldering Wick wire through the holes. Make a note of your plan of attack with what directions to solder in your wicks.

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Soldering Through Holes:
First you will need to carefully scratch back about 3mm of PCB coating to expose the foil below. You will be soldering to those locations and will need to tin them. Don't forget to use alcohol and a toothbrush to clean everything up before soldering.

Secondly I used flux to coat the newly exposed landing spots and carefully tinned them with a flat soldering tip. I coated the wick, cut it to about an inch and placed it in the hole and bent it over on both sides so it would stay there. I then cut each end to the length I needed so it would just cover the landing pad. Again, most of this is done with jeweler's glasses on.

Lastly in this step, I used a round toothpick, put some flux on it and carefully jammed it into the hole. Some of the holes I put a wick on both sides of the hole (2 wicks) but I don't think it's necessary. I soldered the wicks in place being careful not to apply to much at this point.

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Final Preps:
I noticed that some of the through holes did not have a pad around them anymore because they were either burnt and fell off or stayed attached to the capacitor leg. I also noticed that the one of the normally isolated holes (negative terminal on C3) would be close to the foil (connecting other components) after drilling the holes bigger. To be safe, I scratched the foil off making a small square around the hole that would give a safe void from the foil. Just to be aesthetically appealing, I painted it with some green PCB paint I had but that's not necessary. After the PCB paint dried, I put the wick through and bent in on the other side as I did the others but on the side where there used to just be a soldering pad not connected to anything, I cut the wick back so it was only stick out about 1mm. The idea was to bend the short wick over to resemble a solder pad for more support and would not be in contact with the foil (see first pick below with the green pad).

Note-Be sure to scrape back the right through hole. Examine your pictures, compare it to mine and look at the schematics if you're not sure.

On the topside of the board (the side with all the components soldered on top), I was sure to build up the solder on the new solder pads...you want to make sure they attach to the capacitor as you won't be able to see your solder pads after. I again cleaned the board with alcohol and fluxed the pads. I also followed some traces from to where I could check for continuity after and marked the components with a Sharpie.

I had purchased a couple cheap sets of micro drill bits that you can use by spinning them in your fingers...they're cheap if you pick them up off eBay or something. Although I was careful to jam toothpick in the holes while I soldered, after building up some of the pads with solder, I shrunk some of the holes. I used the micro drills to ream the holes out while I check that each capacitor would slide in easy. You might be able to use a cutting torch round file set to accomplish the same thing...or re-flow while working the toothpick in??

While I was at it, I used a small knife and cleaned the legs of the capacitors. I also tinned them just to be double sure and re-scraped. My DMM has a capacitor test so I tested the capacitors for piece mind as well...ready to solder!

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Solder:
Important-Notice that the capacitors have Negative signs painted in White running down the side of the capacitor....that's the Negative leg. It is very important that you solder the capacitor on the board with the right polarity configuration. You will notice the "+" on the board where each capacitor should go; be sure the Negative leg is opposite that!

Not much to say in the way of soldering other than make sure you have a hot enough iron! Everything was cleaned and fluxed before starting...including the legs of the capacitor. I also tested the temperature of my iron by first using it on an old board I had on a couple of big legs of another capacitor.

In my case, probably get flamed by the pros on this one, but I pushed the capacitors all the way down to the board (flush) and soldered them in. Be sure to add the right amount of solder to ensure it all flows through. I think more solder is better than less for this procedure.

After soldering in, I checked all the continuity I could to ensure I had connectivity everywhere.

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Lock It All In Place:
So I've heard of some applying hot glue under the capacitors then pushing them down onto the board before you solder. This seemed too risky for me so I decided to do a bit of a Hybrid instead of that technique.

As you can see in the pictures, I glued the two capacitors together then used a couple of points on the base of the board to really lock it in. When I grab the capacitors and wiggle, they feel really solid. I don't anticipate they will give me a problem for very long time and if I need to replace one going forward, I should still be able to cut them free.

There you go...hope it helps someone.

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