(Topic ID: 289402)

Can’t figure out how to undo a free play hack on Seawitch

By Mad_Dog_Coin_Op

3 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by alexanr1
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#1 3 years ago

Hello,

I have a new to me Seawitch that has been tweaked to be free play. I can’t figure out what was done to it so I can undo it. When I turn the game on 50 credits magically appear. While on, the credits tick down while played but reappear after a power clear. One of the coin counters had wires added to it that went out a hole in the bottom of the cabinet. I’m sure that was some sort of an external credit button at one time. I removed that mess and check things over pretty good. I just can’t find anything else causing the credits to appear at power on. Any help should be greatly appreciated.

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#3 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Have you checked if it's got some Freeplay ROMs fitted to the MPU board?

Everything in my MPU looks original. They have factory applied decals on them.

#7 3 years ago

Thanks for the help. Here are some photos. I haven't moved any chips around but I did put all the dip switches back to factory default. None of my coin mechanisms coin up. Credits go down as games are played be reappear after the game has been power cycled. No matter what I do I get 50 credits on power up.

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#8 3 years ago

I just went below 40 credits by draining a couple dozen balls and my coin slots now work.

#12 3 years ago

I have a memory capacitor coming in the mail. I was thinking that was a possibility. I'll install it and report back.

1 week later
#13 3 years ago

The memory capacitors arrived today. I'm happy to report that once installed I was able to zero out the 50 credits and the game now operates as expected credit wise. Thanks for the help!!!
I now have two small problems left. If anybody wants to chime in I would appreciate the insight.

Problem 1) I have anti flicker boards installed in my game and they make a world of difference. Currently I have them attached to my controlled lamp wire on the backside of my backbox light board. All the controlled lamps share the same power source. When the wire for the anti flicker board is attached I loose the last light in the chain which happens to be "high score to date". It works fine when the alligator clip is removed. The line isn't long enough for me to try attaching it under the playfield. I was going to lengthen it tomorrow and see if a different power source is better. Anyway, I thought is was kind of odd.

Problem 2) My knocker doesn't work during the game. It works fine in test but not when I match or get a special. I have the dips set for it and they tone out as being good. Not sure what the problem is. Maybe the original transistor failed and it was moved over to a unused one on the driver board? I'll have to check the schematics.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The memory capacitors arrived today. I'm happy to report that once installed I was able to zero out the 50 credits and the game now operates as expected credit wise. Thanks for the help!!!
I now have two small problems left. If anybody wants to chime in I would appreciate the insight.
Problem 1) I have anti flicker boards installed in my game and they make a world of difference. Currently I have them attached to my controlled lamp wire on the backside of my backbox light board. All the controlled lamps share the same power source. When the wire for the anti flicker board is attached I loose the last light in the chain which happens to be "high score to date". It works fine when the alligator clip is removed. The line isn't long enough for me to try attaching it under the playfield. I was going to lengthen it tomorrow and see if a different power source is better. Anyway, I thought is was kind of odd.
Problem 2) My knocker doesn't work during the game. It works fine in test but not when I match or get a special. I have the dips set for it and they tone out as being good. Not sure what the problem is. Maybe the original transistor failed and it was moved over to a unused one on the driver board? I'll have to check the schematics.

Fixed my own problems.

Problem 1 was a bad trace leading to the middle pin of Q16 on the light board.

Problem 2 was simply clearing out the rest of the garbage on my MPU from not having a battery. The knocker works as it should now.

Seawitch is now 100% functional.

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