I know this post was not a complete joke, just frustration, but he is the "real deal" for collectors that embark in the NIB experience.

Unless special provisions via purchase contract were made, no.

Why?

1) Most machines from a distributor are generally special orders as they no longer order many in advance due to overhead costs (unlike the OLD days) unless they are a HUGE distributor like Betson's, and ABSOLUTELY NOT if they premium or LE
2) The game has been PLAYED, therefore it no longer is NIB, even only played 20X, and the distributor would take a loss in resale, it is just like when you buy a new car and drive it off the lot. I get a real kick out of owner's selling machines that they "played 100X" and then expect to turn right around and sell it for the purchase price, when they get bored. This always has steamed me. Nobody does that, because if the owner wants a machine, they will buy one themselves if it a new title. This is just being "pintarded".
3) Many distributors have a no refund policy for the above reasons, particularly due to "buyer's remorse" with first time owners or for tech reasons.

Basically, you bought it, you keep it.
However, hopefully your seller (if not a pure distributor), gave tech support for free on a limited warranty.
Keep in mind, Stern may be providing upgrade kits in the future for corrections if their are design achilles heels with the game. YOU can help identify the problems and get the kit made! (I did this with LOTR)
WMS/BLY machine had the same types of problems.

Did you even do a proper BURN IN by letting the game run for a couple of hours with testing?
For some reason, I do not think so, as game adjustments are fairly common requirements.
What I think happened is you set it up, dropped the balls in, and started playing.
Then you go, its not working right!
That is not the order of how to proper set up a NIB machine whether on a route or in a home.
I know because I have done both as a pinball technician, and a home owner.

In this case, if you do choose to sell it at the present time, expect to sell it for a loss.
Perhaps down the road, it may be different.

This discussion reminds me of the RGP "VUK discussion" over the lower to upper playfield kicker on Haunted House, WAY BACK IN TIME.
Oh, how the fun times. Predominant cause of troubles? Worn ball holes, assemblies, alignment, coil burnouts, electrical shorts, etc.
At least Black Hole was a *little* better.
There sometimes ALL sorts of adjustments that need to be made in terms of alignment, the vertical wireform positioning with the screws, the alignment of the VUK itself, the functioning of the assembly and any potential "slop" or "tightness", the ability to center the ball on the VUK, and so on.

How is this relevant here?
"Fiddling with screws" on the ball VUK receiver is not a technical solution.
You have to take a close look at what actually is going on.

For example, when I was overhauling my WH20 recently, the ball was not getting up the shooter lane ramp smoothly via the plunger.
The spring used had more than enough power to do the right job as per factory specs.
This was being caused by THREE reasons, the alignment of the ball in respect to the plunger, the lane guide with the ball release into the shooter lane, AND the wire form itself that had a very slight misalignment.
I guess my game is defective too...right?
Small things DO count, A LOT.
This is what you have to do to "dial in" your game, and in some case you have to modify your OWN GAME to actually work better than the way it left the factory as every machine can have its own nuances. Sometimes I have had to make my own rail guides or even protectors (before they were made), in order to do the job that the design engineers forgot.
Just ask Cliffy, if he knows what I am talking about here.