Poly should be fine. The most important thing is to let it really cure properly - I wouldn't play on it for a week or so after 2-3 coats. Playing earlier may cause it to crack. And it won't turn yellow - you're thinking of old varnish or something. Probably ok to use water- or oil-based but water- is a little more prone to bubbling (something you don't want on your PF) so I'd go with the slightly messier oil. I've done this before with no problems - but be sure the playfield is fully removed andabsent any hardware, or things will get messy!

Don't use a roller and don't use Poly - it does yellow over time.

While some manufacturers tout their products as being clear and non-yellowing, all polyurethanes will yellow over time.

I haven't used poly on a playfield but when I was in the business of making cornhole (bag toss) games I would use poly to cover wood, paint, and decals.

It seems that the oil based polyurethane would yellow over time. It was most noticeable when sealing in white paint or decals. The water based polycrylic did not seem to yellow over time. Minwax water based polycrylic has extremely fast dry times!

I agree that you should NOT use a roller as you will get air bubbles and that's bad. I recommend using a foam brush for application. You can pick them up in the paint section of Lowes or Home Depot in 1" to 3" widths and they cost under a dollar.

This is my fist post in this great community! Cant wait to contribute!

Car automotive clear coat is the best. But like most you have to get it done by someone that knows there stuff any kind of dust or even some acrylic paints will make depressions and fish eye bubbles in the clear coat. Besides that shit is so toxic you'd have to get a nice "clean room" and a lot of ventilation to do it properly.

With that done, playfields are literally, invulnerable to player wear.

There are quite a few folks who do the automotive clear coats that could do the job for you. For touch ups or even whole playfields, Varathane in a spray can works. The results aren't as glossy or as durable as automotive clears but it does provide some good protection.

I'd recommend the foam brushes as well - the roller sounds like it would get sloppy on a relatively small project like this. And do a few thin coats - you don't want to slop it into all the nooks and crannies. I can see a roller doing that.

On the potential yellowing, I haven't had any trouble with any type of poly (I do much more woodworking than pinballing) but I did a little research. It does seem that oil-based poly over white paint can go a bit "amber". I couldn't find any such complaints on water-based so that's probably the way to go.

If you really want to make your head spin, some recommend "pre-catalyzed lacquer" or "conversion varnish" (both said to be more durable that even poly) but I don't have personal experience with them. Good luck!

Don't use the foam roller...trust me, you will get air bubbles. If you go with poly go water based polycyclic with a foam brush and you will be set. Rolling into the poly with a foam roller will not give ideal results due to the roller trapping air during application. Good luck!

Take a look at HEP's videos on YouTube on the proper way this procedure is done.

I spoke to Rustoleum / Varathane tech support today about a different issue, but at the end of the call I asked for their recommendation -- according to their expert all of their oil-based clears / poly will yellow as they age but none of their water-based poly will yellow. He added that was pretty much the rule across all manufacturers' consumer product lines (multi-part car clear coat would not be considered "consumer")

I am going to try the minwax polycrylic on an old TOTAN when I ever get a chance... That stuff is so easy to work with and drys fast as was mentioned... Used it on cabs with great results and no worry of yellowing. Saw a few games done on rgp that looked great, just don't know how it stands up over time... For HUO I can't imagine it would be a problem but I am no expert like VID...

Water based clears do not dry anywhere near as clear as the 2 part clears, so the colors are muted.

They also don't last as long as they are not very hard.

I know that everyone wants a clear that they can apply in their basement with a brush or roller, I fully understand that; but the fact remains that Oil Poly and Water Poly are sub-standard playfield finishes

How about that two-part clear coat epoxy they sell at Home Depot / Lowes / Tap Plastics / etc. ? Anyone want that "sealed in a 1/2 inch acrylic tomb" 70s-pizza-parlor-wood-table look for their playfield? (Can be it even be applied thinly? It still seems like it would be rather soft)

For those who are put off by mixing, compressor and HVLP spray gun concerns -- has anyone tried the 2 part (2K) clear coats in an aerosol can? Seems like the benefits of a true two part auto clear coat with the convenience of a rattle can (for 48hrs after it's been activated)?

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aerosol-high-gloss-clear.html
http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2

I am in total agreement with this. I can't imagine putting an oil based poly on a playfield.

That stuff is cool, but since the directions say to rough the surface to be covered with 120 grit for proper adhesion, it may not be the best stuff for our playfields.

120 grit! ouch!

I bought an NOS Flash playfield that someone used oil based poly on, and it has yellowed really bad. It looks ok on the bare wood parts, but on the whites it is really noticeable. Kind of makes the whole playfiels look kind of dull.

The problem with most of the DIY stuff will not lay out flat and is to thin to wet sand polish flat. I would highly recommend not using a brush or roller of any kind as it will not lay out flat. Using an aerosol can clear is will not look good and will most likely end up peeling or chipping very easy. Your best bet if you are not an automotive painter or have the the equipment that most paint shops do just pay the pros to do what they do best. Ive been in the autobody industry for 20+ years and a pinball collector for a few years that's just my 2 cents.

Hmmm may be worth testing out on a junk PF!

Check out this thread also on RGP..even Frank likes the 2 part clearcoat method..

https://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_frm/thread/99baff1000422ed9#

That answers it for me -- personal experiences using the aerosol can 2K auto clear on playfields with consistently good results. Everything good about the two part auto coat (good flow, coverage, durability, shine, clarity, sanding, colorfast, etc) with less prep & compressor hassle.

There are VERY mixed reviews for the spray2k stuff on amazon. Either works great, or peels like a sheet of plastic if you yank on it (or high pressure water clean it).. Of course on a playfield, neither of these things are likely so you're probably safe:
http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/product-reviews/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm

If you watch videos, the results are amazing:

Wow, that does look amazing after they hit it with the hair dryer, impressive!

Yah, very polarized: 14 "works great" vs 3 "total disasters" reviews. But the circumstances are different in every case, which is why I wanted to hear from someone who had actually used it on a playfield. The thread on RGP has no disasters and a few "works great"s to add to the pool, and they're in the exact context we're looking for.

If anyone does get some and tries it, please post a review / follow up. I've got three cans on order but won't be ready to clear coat for several more weeks.

Definitely will be trying it on an old playfield... just not in a few weeks..

More video and reviews below it for the SprayMax brand here:

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

I tried a spray can of that stuff and found it came out like St Bernard slobber. Uneven, foamy, big glops with gaps -- not the fine mist one expects from a spray can. I could get better results with a squirt gun. I had to wipe it all off before it ruined my piece. Impossible to do a thin coat -- the best I could get out of it was thick drippy coating that needed to be smoothed out with a brush (what's the point of a $12 SPRAY CAN then?). It was like the nozzle was plugged or faulty.

I would have thought I just had a fluke faulty can, but I also had four cans of Varathane brand that did the exact same thing. I tried different nozzles, different room temperatures, waiting after shaking, etc. All brand new cans. The oil-based clear-coat sprays (and various spray paint) don't do this. Is there something about new formulations of water-based clear-coat sprays that make them not aerosolize? maybe the lower VOC mixes? Anyone else come across this?

Once I brushed out the stuff from the spray can, it behaved basically the same as the stuff in the can. But having to brush it out kinda defeats the whole point of it being in a spray can. I am mystified by this phenomena, since I can't imagine anyone considering that splattered, globby mess acceptable output from a spray clear for any purpose.

If you were planning to use the spray, test it first. Or were you planning on brushing it on your playfield?

So let me make sure I got this straight, in order to use this stuff I need a full body suit or else I'll get cancer?

I think that's the answer right there...

Can you get this product in USA??

http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/diamond-finish-clear-coat-application-information

Can be brushed on or sprayed ( NEVER use a roller with ANY clear coat!!!!).. is self levelling, crystal clear and extremely tough. Drying times however are on par with an oil based Poly.
I love this stuff and have used it on PF's with great success

Spiderman_Clear_(7).JPG Spiderman_Clear_(5).JPG

Yes. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

$34.95 for a pint and $49.95 for a quart, plus shipping.

Any spray can poly also requires you to wear a chem respirator and a $10 Tyvek "bunny suit", too.

Benzene, Toluene, Xylene....all that stuff will destroy your nervous system, and kill your pinball reaction time.

Seems so. Thats one reason why I am so hesitant to do this stuff. Even with the bunny suit and respirator, doing this stuff in a garage with makeshift ventilation/fans scares the crap out of me.

Honestly by alot of comments in this thread and the fact youre not spraying I would highly recimend just taking it to your local automotive shop and ask then to shoot it with clear when they spray their next cars typicly they have extra after shooting a fender etc then they are willing to do it a bit cheaper.
Dont use varishit, dont use spray bomb garbage, just do it right or youll just ruin the playfield in the end.
Do it right or just dont do it!!

Listen to Vid, he's not a guru by accident!

Agreed 'Hellfire'

Have seen folks simply prep their PFs (Mask all of the under PF components) and top side inserts. Then let your local Auto & Paint store do the rest. My local Auto&Paint do all the BMW's and said he can clear a PF for $75.00. When the time comes, that is the route I will take...

GL

Would that include leveling it by sanding and shooting a second coat?

CC & Leveling is included in the $75.00 price tag... Not sure about the number of coats...

Looks like I am going to be trying this route. This D&D only cost me a couple hundred, but its kind of my pride and joy since its my only machine at the moment. The PF might need some touchups first, but at least it should preserve what is still there.

I placed my order for a quart, you can use coupon code YT10 for 10% off.

If I brush it on, I could theorectically remove as much of the topside stuff as possible and just cover it somehow without dismantling the whole thing right?