(Topic ID: 325351)

Can you polish pinballs?

By killerrobots

1 year ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Tuukka
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    So like most pinheads I have a bunch of old pinballs laying around. I just bought a batch of new regular balls, I used to buy the premium shiny ones but I had issues with magnetism in some games so I went back to the regular ones. Anyway, this got me thinking about whether or not it was practical to polish pinballs?

    So just to caveat this, I am not saying this a good idea or something people "should" do, I was just curious and put something together this afternoon with stuff I had around the house and thought I would share the results.

    So I did a little research and found this youtube video and these professionals use these cups with abrasives to cut and polish spheres. But in one shot I also saw they use cups with just leather on them, which was something I had some scraps of.

    Screenshot 2022-11-08 162213 (resized).pngScreenshot 2022-11-08 162213 (resized).png

    I also saw this guys who polishes stones and he uses primarily a three cup setup but also mentions an 2 cup system. It seems the trick is getting the ball to roll randomly in the cups.

    Screenshot 2022-11-08 162919 (resized).pngScreenshot 2022-11-08 162919 (resized).png

    So I thought I might be able to try something quick at home. I went to Home Depot and got some very simple hardware. Just some 3/4" PVC pipe and some 5/16" nuts/bolts.

    IMG_20221108_142007789 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_142007789 (resized).jpg

    I then glued in the PVC plugs and drilled them out to 5/16 for the bolt. Then I cut out the leather in a circle and cut some gaps for the folds and then used a pipe clamp to the PVC fitting.

    IMG_20221108_150850044 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_150850044 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20221108_150111013 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_150111013 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20221108_150607805 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_150607805 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20221108_161922141 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_161922141 (resized).jpg

    So my basic idea was to set something up in my small drill press. The simplest was to have the upper moving and simply fix the lower. I thought that if I put the bottom at a slight angle it might move randomly. I put the "white" metal polishing rouge on the leather before I started.

    IMG_20221108_153736968 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_153736968 (resized).jpg

    It didn't really seem to be moving randomly so I then used my right angle drill strapped to the drill press and tried that:

    IMG_20221108_154957728 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_154957728 (resized).jpg

    So it did work but it gets hot and I was periodically spraying with water to keep cool. I tried it for ten minutes and you can see the before and after:

    IMG_20221108_160148003 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_160148003 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20221108_161425044 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_161425044 (resized).jpg

    I also measured the diameter as best I could and the before was 1.062 and the after was 1.061 which was actually more than I expected but it is just a cheap caliper so it might not be accurate. I couldn't find any out-of-round but again I am not 100% sure of the measurement.

    I think if I was do do something more serious I would make a two drill (plug in) setup over a tub so I could drip water on it. I am a little concerned that the amount you would need to polish to get a seriously mirror finish might take off more material than would be good to use in a pinball game. .001" is not very much but at some point it would effect the game.

    Anyway, I thought it was an interesting experiment so I thought I would share.

    #2 1 year ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    So like most pinheads I have a bunch of old pinballs laying around. I just bought a batch of new regular balls, I used to buy the premium shiny ones but I had issues with magnetism in some games so I went back to the regular ones. Anyway, this got me thinking about whether or not it was practical to polish pinballs?
    So just to caveat this, I am not saying this a good idea or something people "should" do, I was just curious and put something together this afternoon with stuff I had around the house and thought I would share the results.
    So I did a little research and found this youtube video and these professionals use these cups with abrasives to cut and polish spheres. But in one shot I also saw they use cups with just leather on them, which was something I had some scraps of.

    [quoted image]
    I also saw this guys who polishes stones and he uses primarily a three cup setup but also mentions an 2 cup system. It seems the trick is getting the ball to roll randomly in the cups.

    [quoted image]
    So I thought I might be able to try something quick at home. I went to Home Depot and got some very simple hardware. Just some 3/4" PVC pipe and some 5/16" nuts/bolts.
    [quoted image]
    I then glued in the PVC plugs and drilled them out to 5/16 for the bolt. Then I cut out the leather in a circle and cut some gaps for the folds and then used a pipe clamp to the PVC fitting.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    So my basic idea was to set something up in my small drill press. The simplest was to have the upper moving and simply fix the lower. I thought that if I put the bottom at a slight angle it might move randomly. I put the "white" metal polishing rouge on the leather before I started.
    [quoted image]

    It didn't really seem to be moving randomly so I then used my right angle drill strapped to the drill press and tried that:
    [quoted image]

    So it did work but it gets hot and I was periodically spraying with water to keep cool. I tried it for ten minutes and you can see the before and after:
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    I also measured the diameter as best I could and the before was 1.062 and the after was 1.061 which was actually more than I expected but it is just a cheap caliper so it might not be accurate. I couldn't find any out-of-round but again I am not 100% sure of the measurement.
    I think if I was to do something more serious I would make a two drill (plug in) setup over a tub so I could drip water on it. I am a little concerned that the amount you would need to polish to get a seriously mirror finish might take off more material than would be good to use in a pinball game. .001" is not very much but at some point it would effect the game.
    Anyway, I thought it was an interesting experiment so I thought I would share.

    #3 1 year ago

    In that first try I was using old balls but out of curiosity I took a brand new basic ball and a new Silverjet (both from Marco). I was wondering if I could polish the basic one up to the Silverjet. The reason for this is that the Silverjets have issues with magnetism so you might want the shinier version but without the magnetism.

    So I ran a basic ball for about 10 minutes and it polished up to the Silverjet. Unfortunately it is way more obvious in person than in pictures. So here they are fresh out of the package:

    IMG_20221108_175515195 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_175515195 (resized).jpg

    Again, it is obvious in person that the one basic one is rougher than the Silverjet.

    Here it is after polishing with another not polished one above it.

    IMG_20221108_181207852 (resized).jpgIMG_20221108_181207852 (resized).jpg

    So it does work. I will admit that I did this mainly because I was curious if I could. I am aware that after any decent amount of time playing in the game they are likely to lose that high polish but that is true of the Silverjets as well.

    #4 1 year ago

    One can polish many an item.

    #5 1 year ago

    I feel like there is a joke here with the cups, but Im going to leave it at that…

    I think you could get similar results from a rock tumbler with walnut medium for polishing. Have you tried playing with them after polishing? That should tell you if they are out of round if you start seeing weird wobbles or movement. Overall I dont see it as a worthwhile endeavor, but if they are not out of round, then they would be useable in older single ball machines at a minimum.

    #6 1 year ago

    Tim Arnold did a seminar/write up on this very subject more than 25 years ago, most of it's probably still relevant...

    (skip down to paragraph #2):
    http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/misc/arnold.html

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from SpyroFTW:

    I feel like there is a joke here with the cups, but Im going to leave it at that…
    I think you could get similar results from a rock tumbler with walnut medium for polishing. Have you tried playing with them after polishing? That should tell you if they are out of round if you start seeing weird wobbles or movement. Overall I dont see it as a worthwhile endeavor, but if they are not out of round, then they would be useable in older single ball machines at a minimum.

    Single ball games usually don’t have any magnets so you can use the shiny polished balls such as Silver Jets without issues….it’s the games with magnets that cause the problem…unfortunately it just seems impossible for anyone to supply shiny balls out of the package for games with magnets. Used to could get them years ago. It’s frustrating and there has to be a reason not explained why they just are not available mirror polished like they used to be.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from SpyroFTW:

    I feel like there is a joke here with the cups, but Im going to leave it at that…
    I think you could get similar results from a rock tumbler with walnut medium for polishing. Have you tried playing with them after polishing? That should tell you if they are out of round if you start seeing weird wobbles or movement. Overall I dont see it as a worthwhile endeavor, but if they are not out of round, then they would be useable in older single ball machines at a minimum.

    I think a rock tumbler might work but I don't have one.

    I measured the second set I polished (the new one) and I couldn't find any size difference. I suspect it is smaller than <.001 so they can't be out-of-round very much.

    Quoted from SonicZone:

    Tim Arnold did a seminar/write up on this very subject more than 25 years ago, most of it's probably still relevant...
    (skip down to paragraph #2):
    http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/misc/arnold.html

    That's interesting, he says to use a buffing wheel but they are hard to hold on to. I can't tell you how many times I have tried polish something small only to fling it across the shop.

    #9 1 year ago

    Long ago, before I had a tumbler, I used to polish balls with a home made device. Small length of plastic tubing glued to a CD case. Ball rotates freely but cannot escape.

    vehje (resized).jpgvehje (resized).jpg

    Polishing done in a few minutes with a felt wheel and some rub-on buffing compound (I used the all purpose blue) attached to a drill press.

    buff (resized).jpgbuff (resized).jpg
    pora (resized).jpgpora (resized).jpg

    End result doesn't seem so bad.
    pallot (resized).jpgpallot (resized).jpg

    This can also be used to renew Twilight Zone powerball!

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Long ago, before I had a tumbler, I used to polish balls with a home made device. Small length of plastic tubing glued to a CD case. Ball rotates freely but cannot escape.
    [quoted image]
    Polishing done in a few minutes with a felt wheel and some rub-on buffing compound (I used the all purpose blue) attached to a drill press.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    End result doesn't seem so bad.
    [quoted image]
    This can also be used to renew Twilight Zone powerball!

    I like your set up a lot. Modified mine similar to your's. I removed the leather and just sat the ball in the PVC. If the PVC was stationary then I was not getting random motion. I learned you can mark it with a sharpie when it is working and you can see if the marks move. So I used the drill on the bottom as well. However, it worked great. I was way easier to apply the rouge and the ball didn't get hot. This meant I could walk away and let it run for ten minutes.

    IMG_20221109_093333746 (resized).jpgIMG_20221109_093333746 (resized).jpg

    After ten minutes the balls came out pretty much perfectly polished. I can't see any scratches at all on a new standard ball. I am guessing a "grey" used ball will still have scratches but I will check later today. While I have it set up I am going to polish the 10 standard balls I have on hand. Thanks for the suggestion.

    IMG_20221109_095003260 (resized).jpgIMG_20221109_095003260 (resized).jpg

    #11 1 year ago

    Thats a good result. Maybe worth while if you can walk away for a bit while polishing.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from SpyroFTW:

    Thats a good result. Maybe worth while if you can walk away for a bit while polishing.

    Honestly, it works great. I have found that 20 minutes will bring back most used balls. I am a little obsessive and have been polishing all my old balls. I am now sorting them by "grade". I may never need to buy new pinball again!

    IMG_20221110_211846487 (resized).jpgIMG_20221110_211846487 (resized).jpg
    #13 1 year ago

    Man, just buy an ammo casing tumbler on Amazon /w walnut shells for 60 bucks. I toss all my balls in overnight every few weeks with a little metal polish, bam, brand new balls.

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ollulanus:

    Man, just buy an ammo casing tumbler on Amazon /w walnut shells for 60 bucks. I toss all my balls in overnight every few weeks with a little metal polish, bam, brand new balls.

    Do you mean a rotary style or a vibratory?

    #15 1 year ago

    20221111_180052[814] (resized).jpg20221111_180052[814] (resized).jpgmate this works i use a timber stun 90 * 45 mm cut to 8 inch long therabouts , in the centre of the widest part i use a SPADE bit which is used for drilling holes in timber , timber used is PINE or any softwood you can find hole size is slightly larger than the ball so that it sits into the block of timber more than half deep , then use your buffer and buffing compounds , this works , balls spin in block and can and will if you go too hard for too long get very hot also if hole not deep enough the ball can spin out and take off at speed ,,, so i go through different wheels do a bunch at a time (20) so they cool between grades of buffing wheels and compound , i have seperate blocks for each compound color THIS WORKS especially if you are only giving them a light touch up every few months , give it a go ,, it cant cost you much

    #16 1 year ago

    I just rub the ball hard by hand into a folded up rag with some Mother's Mag polish smeared on it. I loathe exercise and this forces me into some. Lots of black ends up on the rag so it works but it's time consuming.

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    Do you mean a rotary style or a vibratory?

    Vibratory. Great for every bit of metal in a game if you wanna truly shop and old one. I use this one.

    Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler Quick-N-EZ Standard Media Separator for Reloading https://a.co/d/6TZV50x

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ollulanus:

    Vibratory. Great for every bit of metal in a game if you wanna truly shop and old one. I use this one.
    Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler Quick-N-EZ Standard Media Separator for Reloading https://a.co/d/6TZV50x

    I had a vibratory for old pinball hardware and I really didn't like it for various reasons. Partially because it was a cheap harbor freight one but also because it just didn't need it. I use scotch-brite on larger metal parts and I just replace old hardware. However, I figured that the balls were too heavy and would just fall to the bottom of the vibratory? I thought a rotary one might work.

    How polished does it get them? My gut is that the buffer will get them to a higher polish.

    Quoted from stillwaitinggnr:

    [quoted image]mate this works i use a timber stun 90 * 45 mm cut to 8 inch long therabouts , in the centre of the widest part i use a SPADE bit which is used for drilling holes in timber , timber used is PINE or any softwood you can find hole size is slightly larger than the ball so that it sits into the block of timber more than half deep , then use your buffer and buffing compounds , this works , balls spin in block and can and will if you go too hard for too long get very hot also if hole not deep enough the ball can spin out and take off at speed ,,, so i go through different wheels do a bunch at a time (20) so they cool between grades of buffing wheels and compound , i have seperate blocks for each compound color THIS WORKS especially if you are only giving them a light touch up every few months , give it a go ,, it cant cost you much

    One thing I like about my current setup is that it doesn't get the balls hot. The leather got them very hot.

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from frenchmarky:

    I just rub the ball hard by hand into a folded up rag with some Mother's Mag polish smeared on it. I loathe exercise and this forces me into some. Lots of black ends up on the rag so it works but it's time consuming.

    That is how I clean the Powerball on my TZ. You are correct in that it does indeed work, but as you noted, it does take a bit of effort.

    Gord

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    That is how I clean the Powerball on my TZ.

    Dammit man do not clean it; that's on page 1!

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    I had a vibratory for old pinball hardware and I really didn't like it for various reasons. Partially because it was a cheap harbor freight one but also because it just didn't need it. I use scotch-brite on larger metal parts and I just replace old hardware. However, I figured that the balls were too heavy and would just fall to the bottom of the vibratory? I thought a rotary one might work.
    How polished does it get them? My gut is that the buffer will get them to a higher polish.

    One thing I like about my current setup is that it doesn't get the balls hot. The leather got them very hot.

    Overnight in walnut shells w/ metal polish, wipe down w/ alcohol after to remove any residue. They look like brand new chrome. Takes out minor dings and scratches; I look them over after and replace if there's any blemishes left. Simple.

    Just replacing the balls is fine as others suggest; they're cheap and there's no way I'd spend the effort polishing with drills and such rather than just a couple bucks for new ones. This is super easy and can be done every week or two if you want though, could probably run a couple dozen balls at a time if you wanted. But I run new balls through before play too; makes the cheap ones look as good or better than the "fancy" ones. I suspect those are just getting tumbled before shipping anyway.

    #22 1 year ago

    We have the vibratory polisher Marco sells, we use walnut shells and a little squirt of Novus 3 (I don't use Novus 3 for anything but this...), and results are good.

    However, if you leave the pinballs in too long... it polishes the outer layer away and you end up with brass-looking balls!

    It's nice having really shiny pinballs to put in the machines we sell.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinRetail:

    However, if you leave the pinballs in too long... it polishes the outer layer away and you end up with brass-looking balls!

    What? The balls are supposed to be solid steel, with no layers or brass inside. Maybe the polishing agent leaves a brass color residue, even though I have never experienced that.

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