I am known in Central PA as "the guy who pays too much and will buy just about anything" and I can honestly say I think you paid too much for those by about $150. The pair are worth about $250 in parts (if you are lucky).
I think the smartest thing you could do with them is grab as much as possible as far as the parts go and trash the rest. It will be WAY TOO MUCH WORK to try to save those.
Parts value will well exceed what you paid for them but it is a lot of work to get your money back from the parts. I am semi retired and do it all the time but dollar per hour it really isn't worth the time it takes.
BEST OF LUCK!
OK, good news is I found a quarter in coin slot. Jungle back glass is 9.5 out of 10. But have the feeling it would start flaking as soon as anything touched it. Jack in the box back glass, not so good, but heard they make an interesting repro. Some wires showing in backbox, mice chewed insulation. Jack in the box, only one row, jungle,not so lucky. I think jungle might be a loss except for back glass. Once wires are exposed, too much work to replace. I opened jack in the box up. UGLY! looks complete though and I tested allmoving parts. They moved freely. Playfield probably a total loss. Paint coming up where urine soaked. I tried a paper towel with some mild bath cleaner in a few areas, dirt wouldn't bundge, but paint flakes did. Plastics are good. Bring jack in the box to my em guy. If anyone can save it, he can. Jungle might be parted out. Too much work and head has too many issues. Jack in the box goes to carwash tomorrow for vacume. I was able to vacume both backboxes. Jack in the box flakes also anytime its moved. Probably the ice cold temp it was kept in for who knows how long.
Thanks too-many. I should get some money back from jungle backglass, if it doesn't start flaking. Plastics too are rare I would think and they look good and can be cleaned. Just seeing what my em guy thinks about the jack in the box. For $400 it was worth the effort I think,plus a learning experience. Hopefully someone can put plastics to good use.
question about backglass. Jungle is in good shape. But one area looks like its seperated from glass ballooning out. So one touch will cause it to flake. Is there anything I can do, maybe put one big piece of mylar over back to keep intact?
Most of your value will be the lock bars and chime units. If I remember correctly both lock bars are "button style" not "fin style". If I am correct on that the lock bars are worth at least $60 to $75 each. Chime units are in about the same price range.
Plastic sets for old EM's don't typically sell for all that much - maybe $50 for a set if you are not in a rush.
AS relays (stepper style relay) are worth $20 to $30 each if each of those machines has that style relay.
Jungle backglass with paint lifting maybe $40 if you are lucky. With paint lifting they are a tough sell also!
Then basically $20 or $25 a set for the score reels and about $100 in parts on each playfield if you want to take the time to go that direction.
Typically you can salvage over $500 worth of parts from an average EM but it takes a ton of time and desire.
In any event best of luck but I think you are better off making those two into parts regardless.
Quoted from jesster64:question about backglass. Jungle is in good shape. But one area looks like its seperated from glass ballooning out. So one touch will cause it to flake. Is there anything I can do, maybe put one big piece of mylar over back to keep intact?
Clear packing tape is the quick & easy fix. Mylar over the entire thing is better but tape will do the trick. Some people will not agree but once a backglass starts lifting taping it is better than letting paint flake off. And in my eyes flaking backglass and 'bubble under paint" are the same thing. The only difference is the bubble has not flaked away yet.
Value is gone once paint starts to lift anywhere!
Quoted from too-many-pins:Clear packing tape is the quick & easy fix.
Guilty on that. AN old op showed me the trick and I have used it several times to save a peeling backglass.
When I first got into the hobby I hated seeing packing tape on backglasses but after thinking about it some I realized it is likely the cheapest & safest way to save a backglass that otherwise might be lost forever.
And once they start lifting backglasses are players grade (not collector quality) regardless of what method you use. So why not just use the cheap & easy method and do what you can to save them?
Quoted from too-many-pins:Clear packing tape is the quick & easy fix. Mylar over the entire thing is better but tape will do the trick. Some people will not agree but once a backglass starts lifting taping it is better than letting paint flake off. And in my eyes flaking backglass and 'bubble under paint" are the same thing. The only difference is the bubble has not flaked away yet.
Value is gone once paint starts to lift anywhere!
Oh boy...
Please triple thick it, lay it on thick and you won't be disappointed ... Clear tape!?! It will screw itself dry in 6 months
I've done triple thick to all of my back glasses... It's the first thing I do every time I get a new machine that has a back glass, whether it needs it or not, it's like clear coating the playfield. If you have the opportunity... Go for it
Quoted from Chosen_S:Oh boy...
Please triple thick it, lay it on thick and you won't be disappointed ... Clear tape!?! It will screw itself dry in 6 months
I've done triple thick to all of my back glasses... It's the first thing I do every time I get a new machine that has a back glass, whether it needs it or not, it's like clear coating the playfield. If you have the opportunity... Go for it
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#bg
The triple thick debate has been going on for years. Two issues with triple thick. One is triple thick expands & contracts at a different rate than glass so over time if exposed to extreme temp changes paint will lift off glass even quicker. And second issue is lifted area can still flake off if it is bumped. Triple thick is paint - not a bonding agent - so it will not tie things together like tape does.
Clear tape from the 1950's & 1960's dried out, yellowed, shrunk, flaked & everything else but clear tape made today last for years and will likely outlast the rest of the paint on a flaking backglass.
Triple think works great on backglasses that are flaking off like grains of sand - smaller flakes kind of dusting away - I see this typically on Gottlieb backglasses from the later 1970's to early 1980's but on lifting paint triple thick is really not the answer.
Mylar over the entire backglass is really the best method but it is tricky to apply and cost a fair amount of money to do. Sometimes I have put Mylar on a section of backglass but basically that is doing the same thing as packing tape.
Regardless of how you do it - try to get something on that bubble before it come off.
I went with clear tape since I had it handy. Good thing too, one bubbling section was coming off as I put it down.Pretty sure a stiff breeze would have taken a chunk away. Was able to pat it down in nick of time with tape.
The Cabinet and Heads can be saved, repaired, and painted. PBR and Marco's are your friends for parts. The Backglass on your Jungle looks fine so just seal it and you can replace your JITB with a new one from bgresto.com. Just clean up your JITB Playfield and play as-is as you may be in luck as Wade Krauss was considering doing reproduction Playfields in the near future. The Playfield on your Jungle looks nice and should clean up well.
Also you can get a reproduction JITB Plastic set from PBR
Fun Projects!
All in all a good buy! Restore and save them from the parts bin for future generations to play!
Ken
I honestly wouldn't waste my time even trying on those two. Parts is parts. Neither game is worth that much in nice shape any way. But if you've got the time, then somebody's got the beer. And hopefully some penicillin too.
I'd say go for it and then post some pics on here when you're finished! I have a machine that was pretty rough, not the amount of "mice material" that you have but a little. The smile on my face had to be pretty goofy the first time it fired up and ejected a ball into play. It now plays pretty well. It has been my experiment machine, a winter project..... something to do. As far as the smell, I bought an apartment building once that had a unit that had a terrible cat smell in the hardwood floor. I painted the entire floor with Kilz stain blocker/sealer and the smell was completely gone. It was cheap and easy, I would try the same on a pin if needed. Good luck!
My Dealers Choice pin I got out of a barn. Looked about the same condition as your games. The whole cab was filled with one big rats nest. Also had some wires eaten away. Backglass is missing large areas of paint. Playfield touched up with small paintbrush. Most guys now-a-days would laugh at it. When I got it done it played great. Had it for a while and sold it.
Quoted from embryonjohn:Life's short. Instead, just go to the gym and then drink scotch and eat ribs
You had me at the ribs and scotch part, but the other part requires some work. 2/3rds work and 1/3rd play makes Hougie a dull boy.
Quoted from way2wyrd:It's restorable for sure. Just takes time
-JeffPhotoGrid_1448839402903_(resized).jpgPhotoGrid_1448839558464_(resized).jpg
love that game. Isn't it called vangard or something like that?
The rats don't care if it's inside or outside. Without parts games, there wouldn't be as many restorations.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:love that game. Isn't it called vangard or something like that?
yup Vanguard 59 Williams. Its quite fun.
--Jeff
Quoted from andrew128:It takes an especially sick and depraved human being to leave a pinball machine outside to die.
"But is covered in plastic" he said. I just rolled my eyes. Especially with the week of 0 degree nights we just had.
Quoted from way2wyrd:yup Vanguard 59 Williams. Its quite fun.
--Jeff
yes, it never gets old because it changes so much. how did you get the lettering all in tact with the new paint job? waterslides?
Under playfield looks good, which is why even attempting restoration.
Before anyone panics, hose was used because all paper was eaten by mice and there really was no other way clean.
after hose, a heavy dose of lysol applied to disinfect and de-smell.
worst case scenario, it goes back in the barn.
There is a video of it actually turning on and working, but haven't figured out how to download. yet..
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