(Topic ID: 152493)

Can someone please post pics of inside Gottlieb James Bond 007?

By Okarcades

8 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by blownfuse
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#1 8 years ago

I just picked up a Gottlieb system 80 James Bond 007 in not working condition. One of the previous owners robbed the 12 VDC bridge rectifier under the playfield. They also took the wall plug in cord and did some hacking so I'm not sure exactly how it is supposed to look.

Can someone please take a picture of the bridge rectifier and possibly that part number, a picture of the transformer, and where the power cord plugs into the game?

Thanks in advance. I added pictures so you can see what I'm missing and what I need to fix.

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#2 8 years ago

Some old photos I had of the inside of a Time Line.

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#3 8 years ago

That will help will almost all of it. Now I just need to figure out what kind of rectifier it is. Thanks forceflow.

#4 8 years ago

That poor pin. If the inside of the cab looks like that, I can't imagine whet the rest of the game looks like.

Thanks for taking the time to bring it back.
faz

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

That poor pin. If the inside of the cab looks like that, I can't imagine whet the rest of the game looks like.
Thanks for taking the time to bring it back.
faz

According to my time line manual, it's a BR-354; a 35A 400v bridge rectifier.

https://greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GBPC3504L

If you don't already have a manual for the game, one would be helpful for determining which wire colors go where. PBResoruce carries them.

#6 8 years ago

Thanks force flow i knew they had them and I'm trying to get everything all gathered up so I can just put in 1 big order. I feel like I'm placing an order to buy parts like once a week! Thanks again for your help, do you ink if I called Steve at pbresource he would know which rectifier it is? I would imagine it's the same as the time line since everything looks exactly the same as 007

#7 8 years ago

And yes pinballfaz it's a pretty nasty machine. Coin slots say 100 lire and lire is Italian money so it must be a reimport. From what I can gather it has basically just been thrown in with other pinball deals and nobody wanted to fix it. I got it as payment for shopping a black hole so I'm going to bring it back to life

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#8 8 years ago
Quoted from Okarcades:

Thanks force flow i knew they had them and I'm trying to get everything all gathered up so I can just put in 1 big order. I feel like I'm placing an order to buy parts like once a week! Thanks again for your help, do you ink if I called Steve at pbresource he would know which rectifier it is? I would imagine it's the same as the time line since everything looks exactly the same as 007

It's the same as time line, and should be the same as the other bridge rectifiers in the machine. Bridge rectifiers are pretty simple components--just some diodes that are rated high enough to handle the amperage and voltage.

Quoted from Okarcades:

And yes pinballfaz it's a pretty nasty machine. Coin slots say 100 lire and lire is Italian money so it must be a reimport. From what I can gather it has basically just been thrown in with other pinball deals and nobody wanted to fix it. I got it as payment for shopping a black hole so I'm going to bring it back to life

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Wow, stick a fork in that driver board--looks like it's well done. I wouldn't trust powering on the game with that board.

On the cabinet, use goo gone on the tape before just trying to rip it off or you might take some of the paint off with it.

The playfield looks nice--it looks like the mylar did its job.

#9 8 years ago

I had that exact rectifier on hand and tried wiring up the power in and it didn't work. I test after the circled red thing in the picture and it seemed to be bad. I bypassed That because I was pretty sure it just eliminated hum or made it so am radios didn't get static or something. After I by passed that and checked all the fuses. (1 blown and 3 over fused) I turned it on and got what was in the other picture. Playfield lights, Backbox lights, and displays. It did not boot but I didn't expect it to. Thanks forceflow for looking up that part and helping me get it going! Now I gotta get it to boot.

The driver board isn't plugged in because it's nasty.

The power supply board had both leds on.

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#10 8 years ago

That box circled in red is a line filter. It helps prevent interference from getting onto or leaving the game.

GPE should carry them as well.

Also, the display segments should not be all lit up like that, so there is something seriously wrong there.

You really should go through the game top to bottom and sequentially so as to avoid damaging something. So, don't necessarily be in a hurry to flip the power switch--take your time. It's a "measure once, cut twice" situation.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Post-Purchase_Checklist

#11 8 years ago

The displays don't turn on any more so now it's time to take my time and do the tests. Play one display was super bright. I'm not sure when they turned off but I sure hope I didn't blow them up. I am leaving town tomorrow morning so I will have plenty of time to read up on the drive.

Thanks again force flow

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from Okarcades:

The displays don't turn on any more so now it's time to take my time and do the tests. Play one display was super bright. I'm not sure when they turned off but I sure hope I didn't blow them up. I am leaving town tomorrow morning so I will have plenty of time to read up on the drive.
Thanks again force flow

If they were super bright, chances are that they were hit with excess voltage. The displays can't withstand that for too long, and it's possible to burn them out if the voltages are incorrect and/or going to the wrong places.

#13 8 years ago

Only player one was very bright the rest all seemed normal. Hopefully I didn't blown them up. Would you suggest just buying the pascal all in one board? The game is missing the wiring harness between the mpu and driver board as well as the harness for between the power board and mpu but I borrowed the power supply board to mpu board harness from a black hole. That's $70 just in wiring then I still need a new driver board for sure.

#14 8 years ago

I think you can get those harnesses cheaper if you hunt around a little. Docent Electronics will likely be cheaper than marco.

Personally, I try to keep the boardset original, but if you don't have extensive repair experience, aftermarket boards may be the most cost & time effective way to go.

However, that also doesn't mean you can skip all the systems checks. An aftermarket board won't magically fix voltage or wiring problems.

Additionally, the don't expect the boards to add value to the game over the current market value. Folks won't necessarily pay extra for what someone did in order to just make the game operational.

#15 8 years ago

You're right I'll go through and try everything first. I made need to replace the driver board no matter what because it's pretty nasty. I can fix pretty much everything on an normal board except I don't know how to check ic Chips.

#17 8 years ago

I just finished fixing one of these, connectors, connectors, connectors... my displays behaved in a similar fashion, several pins were damaged. Make sure to replace the big cap inside the cabinet, keep it original if you can, not too huge a deal to repair.. make sure to do the ground mods and go to docent and get new harnesses if they still have them, especially the power supply to mpu harness, lots of stress there...

#18 8 years ago

Thanks forceflow and thanks zen. And zen didn't I just buy a whirlwind from you?

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from Okarcades:

Thanks forceflow and thanks zen. And zen didn't I just buy a whirlwind from you?

Yes you did! I miss her very much... hope you get the 007 working! Let me know if I can be of help to you, or if you need more pics...

#20 8 years ago

I'm taking real good of the whirlwind Do you have a 007? Can you take pics of the boards if you have a chance?

#21 8 years ago

A photo of the boardset:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1286&picno=29320

It doesn't look any different from any other early system 80 game.

#22 8 years ago

I have an 007, if you need any detailed pic's lmk.

#23 8 years ago

The reason I'm asking about board pictures is because there are a few in chips in sockets that are a few legs shorter than the sockets them selves. And one socket it blue which doesn't match the rest. Also there is a large it socket but with no chip at the top and not sure if that is normal.

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#24 8 years ago

TC1 is supposed to be empty. All the other sockets used are too long but will probably work. If you look closely, you'll see the solder connections below the IC pins.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

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