Machine tilts on first coin played....any ideas out there?
is the tilt trip relay tripping or is the anti-cheat relay not powering/staying powered?
you should be able to turn on the game and manually push down the anti-cheat relay armature/plate and it stays down.
The anti-cheat armature relay plate is energized and staying down as soon as I power the machine up.....
Verify none of your cabinet tilt switches are engaged. Most likely the 'plumb-bob' sw.( lower left),
if you have one.
Or.......... Relay bank switches mis-adjusted.
***** I disable all my cabinet tilt switches, but that's just me.
If you are manually tripping the coin switch, make sure you flip it really fast as though a coin were going over it. Any delay will trip the anti-tilt.
I have already checked all the tilt switches. I have it wired for free play at the red button via toggle switch wired to
48-2 and 50-2 at the front door plug (per instructions on the “bingo cdyn” website). I will check again for mis-adjusted
Switches at the trip bank and let you guys know where I am with it.....thanks for the responses
if the anti-cheat relay is powering when the game is first turned on, I assume switch C on it is misadjusted permanently closed? That's one way to prevent credits from resetting at power-on.
if you can manually reset the tilt trip relay by lifting up the armature and it stays in the untripped position, all the slam switches and pendulum bob are ok and the problem is likely the CU 4D switch. It's acting like it's MBB (make-before-break) ... in other words, during it's operation by the cam all three blades are touching each other at the same time. You need to adjust that switch so the center/moving blade disconnects from a surrounding blade before it touches the other surrounding blade. If the moving blade connects wire 13-9 to 14-5, you'll trip the tilt trip relay.
if you want, you could just bend up the top blade on CU 4D so the center blade never touches it. That would disable the "tilt when the coin switch closed too long" circuit and also fix the MBB issue.
Quoted from baldtwit:
if you want, you could just bend up the top blade on CU 4D so the center blade never touches it. That would disable the "tilt when the coin switch closed too long" circuit and also fix the MBB iss
One of the first things I do to every bingo. Not needed in a home environment. Unless you're charging people to play and they have cheating on their mind.
Checked switch C on the anti-cheat and is set correctly (NC) Also bent the blade up at CU cam 4-D. The anti-cheat is still energizing at power up and the machine still tilts at first cycle.....If I try to manually reset the tilt trip, the mixer #2 relay coil buzzes like hell and the tilt trip will not reset.
This is what I would do to start...........
1. Put Credits on your Bingo.
2. Un-solder the hot lead from the Tilt coil to disable it ........ troubleshoot that problem later.
3. Forget about the Coin mechanism.........like Dennis said ; or come back to it later.
**** See if you can get to the Start condition and Go from there.
@ I'm sure you will have many other problems, but you might be able to Play a game or two.
has the game always done this, or did it just start?
the anti-cheat relay isn't particularly important...maybe. The only other ways the anti-cheat could power is:
- CU 5C is closed and the EB trip relays aren't tripped. You could manually trip the EB trip relays then turn on the game and see what happens.
- someone changed the circuit or you have a short
if CU 5D is closed and the switch stack is sitting up on a cam lobe, the maybe part kicks in. Why is the stack being lifted?
to narrow things down, if you manually reset the tilt trip relay then turn on the game, what happens? If it trips, it may be worth stuffing some paper under the anti-cheat armature so it can't close and try again. if it still trips, you've got a stuck slam switch, pendulum bob, short or plug installed incorrectly in a socket as mentioned above.
the mixer #2 relay buzzing is common. As soon as you untrip the tilt trip relay, wire 30 is connected to wire 21-3 and much of the 50V circuit can be active. You can try removing the relay armature and whacking it with a hammer on an anvil to flatten it/remove dimples, swap the armature with another relay, swap the coil with one that's not powered as long/often, fiddle with the coil top if it's worn, or replace the coil.
Just chiming in late here, without checking the schematics, but with the free play method used, couldn't a mistake have been made regarding which pin the toggle switch is soldered to?
One of the switches on the door is a punch/kick/slam tilt. Solder bridge could also do this... just a thought. You're in very good hands - feel free to ignore me.
EDIT: Now I see in baldtwit's post above that he references a stuck slam switch. Just another potential source of 'stuck' that isn't obvious.
I took JKnPA’s advice and removed the hot lead from the tilt trip coil and have been troubleshooting/ fixing issues, for the last couple of days.
I’ve got it down to few that I can’t seem to figure out.
1. The blue button advances scores and features and the green button does likewise.
2. The 64 odd OK game when hit: advances to after the 5th (which I am pretty sure is wrong) and the selection feature step up coil go’s crazy and keeps stepping up. Punching off a game will stop this madness,but what the heck? Then to add
Insult to injury it does not light the yellow super section.....
3. A few random score lights (as in 2 at one time) on the red and green odds from 4 to 8 odds, some times they disappear as the odds advance and sometimes they don’t.
I appreciate you guys more than you know and your knowledge of these machines amazes me.
Misaligned wipers on red score unit would have that effect for the lamp. Wish I still had a screen game to verify, but if there are zero and Max position switches on selection feature unit, check them for proper adjustment and operation.
1] the switches behind the buttons
there's multiple switches on the stacks behind each button. One of the switches on each stack - usually the middle one - causes the start relay to power. That switch needs to close as late as possible in the button travel.
You should be able to push in the colored buttons partway and have the lit panel change to that color, then let go and change to a different color without the game cycling....at least for red, green, blue and white. if you are doing it later with yellow, you can probably only flip between yellow and red.
Adjust the button switches to make that happen and see if the blue and green work right. The goal is to have the play scores (blue), play features (green), or play superscores (white) relays power before the start relay does. For the red button, none of the those relays should be powered.
2] on can-can, the red letter feature unit in combo with the other score and feature units causes the stop relays to power at the right time. Take a look at the upper right corner of the schem.
If the selection feature unit is stopping at the right place sometimes but not others, a wiper/rivet connection on the red letter unit is likely bad.
the OK sequencing happens around A-G33 on the schem.....red, yellow, magic screen, selection and finally score booster. If one of the stop relays in that sequence doesn't power, the rest of the OK setup never happens.
in your case, if the selection stop relay doesn't power, the selection feature unit will step forever. The yellow score booster trip relay won't trip either.
cycling the game causes the pos 29 relay to open...that does abort the OK game setup sequence.
3] as bpc said, the wipers need to be centered (more or less) on the rivets at each step. If you bridge to an adjacent rivet, you're sol. If, however, you are also getting other lights stuck on (like feature lights), usual cause of that is a spotting index switch stuck closed.
generally you can't bend the wipers on a stepper unit to align them onto a rivet. The way the wipers mount on the center hub guarantees correct alignment unless someone mangled the wipers.
if all the wipers are off the rivet centers the same way, you need to loosen the screws fastening the contact plate to the unit frame and rotate the contact plate (do this with the wipers on step 1+...the reset position has more slop in where the wipers are). It's okay if the contact plate is cocked wrt to the unit frame, just make sure the wiper contacts are as centered on all rivets as possible.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside