It looks like you're missing some pads. Make sure all of your connections are made. It may take a little creativity, but it's fixable.
The socket next to the battery holder looks to have some corrosion on the pins as well that needs addressing.
The key will be the traces in pic 2 on the back side - you could jumper those if there aren't too many. They may not be very reliable as they look pretty stressed. Since these are all resistors be sure your jump includes them in the jump path. Doesn't look too bad - and for a few $ its worth a shot.
If you have the right tools you could pop eyelets in their to repair the through-holes in 15-30 minutes. See the info below.
If you decide to use 2716 Eprom's you don't need to reinstall that chip anymore. And of course replace those Scanbe sockets.
That's one's definitely fixable. It won't even be that challenging of a repair, just looks bad.
I would remove all of the extra solder and clean up the remaining pads with fine sand paper. It's okay if pads are completely gone, just install sockets and make sure all of the pins are connected to the traces accordingly. You might need to solder the pins on both sides so I would use SIP machine pins. Luckily it doesn't look like that many pins are even connected. You might need to use a couple small pieces of wire to make it happen, but this is an easy repair.
Quoted from terryb:If you have the right tools you could pop eyelets in their to repair the through-holes in 15-30 minutes. See the info below.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/230-repairing-plated-through-holes
Thanks Terry, I'm feeling a little more confidant. I will order the tools and give it a shot. I have some practice boards I could use to get a feel for it.
Heat up the joint and push the pin out with a toothpick. Also if the pin is straight a solder sucker (or better yet a Hakko) will typically pull the pin from the hole when you desolder it.
Quoted from terryb:Heat up the joint and push the pin out with a toothpick. Also if the pin is straight a solder sucker (or better yet a Hakko) will typically pull the pin from the hole when you desolder it.
Toothpick worked. Wish I had a Hakko, my Radio Shack has to do for now. I ordered eyelets and the other tools from Mouser. Going to take care of the other corrosion issues in the meantime. Love the pinballrehab site. Lots of good stuff.
Quoted from terryb:Heat up the joint and push the pin out with a toothpick. Also if the pin is straight a solder sucker (or better yet a Hakko) will typically pull the pin from the hole when you desolder it.
Got my Hakko set up. I'm ready for action!
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