Maybe the coil listed in the manual is incorrect? Id fix the issue not try and rig it.

yea tilt is an important part of game play

The tilt should still work. The slam tilt which shuts off the game if abused won't work if the hold relay is bypassed. Never energize a coil without a load (no plunger or armature plate). It will cause the coil to draw excessive current, and will overheat it or even blow a fuse.

I had problems with the hold relay on my pioneer buzzing loud not working right, i put in a new coil in and a new spring not a sound ,working how it should,
Raff

No "short" could be "supercharging" the coil. Put a voltmeter on the coil leads and check the voltage. Check to see if the game is high-tapped. If it is, unsolder the wire from the high-tap lug on the transformer, and resolder it to the normal tap lug. This is the only way that the coil is being overdriven.

The voltage is good. There should be a brass washer installed between the base of the coil (the threaded hole, and the inside of the relay bracket. The screw should also be a brass screw. Don't ever apply power to the coil if it isn't installed in the relay properly. It will overheat.

It also helps to have a reasonably smooth surface on the armature plate where it contacts the coil.
Often, the plate gets gouged up due to constantly whacking the face of the coil when it gets pulled in. This can also cause the relay to buzz or chatter excessively when energized. If you can figure out how to carefully remove the armature plate, dress it with a file, or use emery paper to smooth the surface.

I don't know how many switches are on that relay. On some of the older games, there's only one.
Make sure all the switch blades are properly installed in the correct slots on the plastic piece. If not, there could be too much resistance that the magnetic force of the coil can't overcome. It should be reasonably easy to manually push the relay closed. It could also be that the return spring is wrong (too strong a spring).

How about a picture?

A-9738 (32 ohms resistance) is what is supposed to be installed for the "R" relay.

If it's not pulling in, check the slam switch in the backbox and the slam switch on the coin door.

Also, be sure the coil is mounted correctly in the relay frame as has already been suggested and that the relay switches are adjusted correctly.

I think your coil is installed upside down. Compare it to the others in the machine.

Yeah, in that photo the coil is definitely upside down. How on earth did he put the screw in???

Be aware that there is a height difference between the fiber bobbin relay coils and the plastic bobbin relay coils.

The plastic bobbin relay coils are about a 1/16" taller than the fiber bobbin ones, even with the same coil part number! The taller bobbin requires you to either adjust the relay switches (pain in the ass) or file the coil "poles" down a 1/16" (then you don't need to adjust the switches).

Omit the brass washer when installing the nylon type of coil. It isn't needed, and this should make up the size difference without any modification.

So you used the nylon type coil and left out the washer? If so, that's correct.
If you look at the end of the core (where the threaded hole is) you'll see that the nylon type has plastic molded over the end of the core, which effectively insulates it, thus obviating the need for the brass washer. The washer is required on the fiber type coil, because there is no such nylon insulation.