Hi gang.
I know this is not what this site is for. But...
I am Looking for video game help (site leads).
I am not sure if I am breaking any rules by asking. Just cannot find anything.
I am a pinhead(so I have been told)
Thanks.
Hi gang.
I know this is not what this site is for. But...
I am Looking for video game help (site leads).
I am not sure if I am breaking any rules by asking. Just cannot find anything.
I am a pinhead(so I have been told)
Thanks.
I would think that a number of members of pinside also have video arcades (I do) so go ahead and ask. Can't hurt. I never had much luck with KLOV. Ask away. I be happy to help if I can
George
There are no rules against posting questions regarding video games, fine china, or model train collecting. Ask away!
Ok. I was a bit afraid to ask.. but seeing responses, her we go.
(Love this site)
I have a "Williams Make Trax"
The game itself plays perfectly, but the screen will start to jump/shake, almost to the point that it could cause seizures due to the rapid screen shake (has made me whoozy at times). I am pretry sure it has to do with the vertical or horizontal adjustment dials being "dirty". I say this because if I sweep them back and forth a bunch of times then "re-adjust them" the screen will stabilize for a few mins, or a few hours. Then it will start glitching again. I can "tap" the cabinet and that will either make it better or worse.(the old... if you hit it enough... it will work logic. Just kidding)
So I guess my question is...
Is there a way to clean the contacts or just replace?
Thanks. As always information is the key.
Bob Roberts will have what you need. Look on his site and identify your monitor. Send him a email and you will be good.
Google "The real Bob Roberts"
It might not hurt to replace the caps on the monitor board if they haven't been done, while you have it out.
It's best to replace the pots, and install a cap kit while you are in there, BUT, you could also just try cleaning the pots first to see if that helps. Spray some electrical contact cleaner on them and wipe them fully back and forth a few times. This will often bring a sketchy pot back in to perfect operation if it's not too bad.
Do a cap kit, I recommend iankellogg.com all the way, great caps (the really good quality Nichicon ones), great packaging, good maps/instructions.
Bob Roberts' capacitors are now becoming old and dried up, seems as if he doesn't keep up with keeping them new and fresh. They do have a shelf life period.
Thank you all for the info and leads. I will pull the board and give it a visual Inspection. I guess it will not hurt to try to clean the pots and see if there is any improvement. Then order up a "kit" to get it up to speed.
Again thanks to all that responded.
Here is a good link to some repair information
http://thearcadebuffett.com/
Also a good place for parts
https://www.twistywristarcade.com/
I have never had any issues with parts from Bob Roberts.
Quoted from Otaku:Bob Roberts' capacitors are now becoming old and dried up, seems as if he doesn't keep up with keeping them new and fresh
What... Bob is the man!! He has great parts and what he can't source he has made. You will never see a "my first experience sucked" or any other bad thread about him. I have used his parts in dozens of machines.
Quoted from Travish:What... Bob is the man!! He has great parts and what he can't source he has made. You will never see a "my first experience sucked" or any other bad thread about him. I have used his parts in dozens of machines.
Again, I'm not bashing the REST of his parts, but his capacitors are old.
His ordering is highly outdated which was a tad annoying but not worth thinking too much of, but that PLUS when I found out his stock wasn't that good, I kind of questioned why I would even slightly consider to use him as a source. It's like a lose-lose, no point or sense in that. I found Ian's great site (who is a fellow arcade machine collector), and his stuff is really great and are better rated versions even if Bob's were brand new as well. Ian mostly just has cap kits and flybacks, so the rest you could still get from Bob anyhow.
Bob is getting old and isn't ordering much fresh stock anymore. Seems like a great guy that has done wonders for this hobby, I just wouldn't use his caps on my my personal monitors or on monitors for customers anymore. I have used Ian's on both kinds and they have worked flawlessly.
Just my experience. If you want to use him that's fine, I just figured it would be worth noting for a newbie. Ian Kellogg creates and supplies "cap maps" which is basically a visual map of the circuit board and where each cap goes printed on a piece of paper inside of the kit. Helps tremendously. Even specifies polarity and which way it needs to face, although I've found (possibly due to variants) that you really should verify these yourself by looking on the top side of the circuit board as they are not always correct.
OP, do you know what model of monitor you have? If not, post a picture of the chassis (sits under the tube) and I will let you know from looking at it. Best of luck with it!
Quoted from Otaku:Again, I'm not bashing the REST of his parts, but his capacitors are old.
His ordering is highly outdated which was a tad annoying but not worth thinking too much of, but that PLUS when I found out his stock wasn't that good, I kind of questioned why I would even slightly consider to use him as a source. It's like a lose-lose, no point or sense in that. I found Ian's great site (who is a fellow arcade machine collector), and his stuff is really great and are better rated versions even if Bob's were brand new as well. Ian mostly just has cap kits and flybacks, so the rest you could still get from Bob anyhow.
Bob is getting old and isn't ordering much fresh stock anymore. Seems like a great guy that has done wonders for this hobby, I just wouldn't use his caps on my my personal monitors or on monitors for customers anymore. I have used Ian's on both kinds and they have worked flawlessly.
Just my experience. If you want to use him that's fine, I just figured it would be worth noting for a newbie. Ian Kellogg creates and supplies "cap maps" which is basically a visual map of the circuit board and where each cap goes printed on a piece of paper inside of the kit. Helps tremendously. Even specifies polarity and which way it needs to face, although I've found (possibly due to variants) that you really should verify these yourself by looking on the top side of the circuit board as they are not always correct.
What evidence do you have that Bob's capacitors are "old"?
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