(Topic ID: 287515)

Calling RICHIEWRENCH

By mikepmcs

8 months ago


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  • Latest reply 85 days ago by RichieWrench
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    There are 65 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 8 months ago

    RichieWrench or any other plumbing/heating experts out there willing to assist. I have a gas boiler for heat and hot water.
    I have a leak from my 30psi pressure relief valve. Well i'm assuming since it's connected to the tube shown. see pics. Common sense tells me its hard water worn or failing for some other reason not known to me. When I contacted a plumber, who was very nice and told me to try to free the switch up by tapping with a hammer on top due to it likely being corroded or whatever. In the midst of our conversation he said something about having to drain the entire system prior to changing the relief valve and then refilling the whole house. This baffled me as there are shutoff levers literally everywhere. Of course he doesn't know that because we were on the phone but he did say it would be very expensive. So my questions (looking at photos attached) is/are Why can't i just shut off the levers and change these out. Is there some danger associated with not draining the system? Or will this introduce some unstoppable air in system and therefore render it useless until it is bled entirely?
    It just seems I can just shut off the valves pictured and go to town and then turn them back on.
    Please educate me.
    My goal is wanting to change the expansion tank and the relief valve. The parts are under $73 shipped from supplyhouse vs I'm guessing $1000 from a plumber. He said very expensive and I live in the Boston area so everything is basically $1000 to start.
    Thanks.
    r/
    Mike

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    #2 8 months ago

    If the relief is leaking be sure you are not at 30 psi or more in the loop

    #3 8 months ago

    The fast fill below is often the culprit. It keeps the loop at 12 psi (cold) unless you are heating a 3rd floor on the loop. When the water heats up the pressure will rise to 22-25 psi. If you are tickling 30 that is why it is weeping.

    #4 8 months ago

    When the fast fill begins to fail water seeps by. Street pressure is 90 psi. The loop creeps up over 30, lifts the relief and is ok for a day or 2.

    #5 8 months ago

    You have an auto fill system.ccc (resized).jpg

    Shut this valve off (red arrow) for the day and see if your drip stops. I can't read the pressure gauge to know what the system pressure is. If your pressure tank is water logged then there is no room for water expansion, when the boiler heats the water it expands and has to go somewhere. If it can't go into the expansion tank it will build pressure until it leaks out of the pressure relief valve. If you tap on the tank with your knuckle you should be able to hear if its full or not. The tank should be 1/2 or a bit less than full. Since there is a shut off valve right above the expansion, replacement should take 5 minutes.

    #6 8 months ago

    I was able to see you only have 10 pounds pressure when @ room temperature. So its really looking like the expansion tank is water logged. This can be from 2 reasons. The first is the air valve has let all the air out of the tank allowing the water to compress the bladder until the tank is full of water. Or the bladder has torn letting the air into the system and allowing the tank to fill with water. If the air valve has leaked, then replace the air valve with a new one (just like a car tire air valve) and slowly add air until the tank is half full of water. You will have to let some water out to keep the pressure at @ 15 pounds pressure while filling with air. If the bladder is torn then just replace the tank with a new one. It's precharged to 15 psi and ready to install.

    #7 8 months ago

    Should have titled the thread JJP #12 CE to get RichieWrench 's attention.

    #8 8 months ago

    Thank you all for your responses so far. PinballAir thank you for the explanation but I don't comprehend any of the tech language you're speaking. I understand pressure but don't follow all the technical words... loop, fast fill etc... so I don't know how to check what you're talking about. Sorry I'm ignorant on all but the very recognizable (to me) basics of the system. I've never heard those words before.
    The pressure never goes up really at all. I've turned the hot water on and sat there and watched it and the only thing that really rises is the temperature. Top needle floats in the 10-12 range, temp goes to around 120. I'm sure the pressure is coming from somewhere which leads me to GRUMPY 's response. I am onboard and understand everything he said as it is familiar to me. I'm eyeballing that damn expansion tank from the onset. It's snug to the plywood and when I've tapped on it I feel the water on top as a thud but below it's not exactly tinny sounding like it's hollow but not the same thud as on top. No water from the schrader valve below, just a quick piss of air. I did put my tire gauge on it after closing the valve on top and got 13. I know you're supposed to relieve pressure from the system so I figured it would be a higher reading but it literally read the precharge setting. Even if I closed the valve wouldn't there have been residual pressure? Since the expansion tank is pretty straight forward, I feel like throwing one at it to see if I get lucky.
    r/
    Mike

    #9 8 months ago

    If the temperature goes goes up and the pressure stays relatively the same, then the pressure tank is working fine. So I would replace the the pressure relief valve. If the leaking is manageable I would put up with this until spring.

    #10 8 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    If the temperature goes goes up and the pressure stays relatively the same, then the pressure tank is working fine. So I would replace the the pressure relief valve. If the leaking is manageable I would put up with this until spring.

    Copy All. Wilco.
    I will wait until spring as long as it doesn't increase.
    Thank you.
    r/
    Mike

    #11 8 months ago

    Opening the schrader just releases the air charge in the bladder. If water did not come out, it is not likely the expansion tank.
    Close the feed valve like grumpy said and your problem will go away for now.
    If you find that there is gurgling in the pipes you will have to add water manually.

    #12 8 months ago

    One last question circling back. When I do go to change the relief valve in spring can I just shut levers that feed water and swap it out or is there some need to drain the entire system. Thats what stopped me cold a few days ago when the plumber said that on the phone. I have no doubt I can change valves and all that mechanical stuff, it's the operational I don't want to cause a problem if it's not as simple as shutting off valves.
    Thanks again.
    r/
    Mike

    #13 8 months ago

    When I change something like this, I shut off the fill valve (red arrow). Then I let water out of the system from the pressure relief valve until the pressure is nearly zero. I get the new valve ready to go with pipe dope. I loosen the old valve till it starts leaking, then quickly remove it and plug hole with my hand. With my other hand I get the new valve and do a quick switcheroo. With practice the water loss is minimal. Done live like this you will not need to blead the system afterwards. Tighten the pressure relief valve and open the fill valve, check for leaks. Your biggest issue will be the drain pipe for the relief valve. This was put together with a crimp machine, you will need to cut it out and replace it with threaded pipe.

    #14 8 months ago

    Good god that looks confusing

    #15 8 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Your biggest issue will be the drain pipe for the relief valve. This was put together with a crimp machine, you will need to cut it out and replace it with threaded pipe.

    He’s going to have to cut it out first anyway, otherwise he can’t spin out the relief valve. Once new valve is in, he can come off outlet with a 3/4” copper adaptor and sweat together a new set up.

    Or, if not good with sweating pipes, he could get shark bite fittings (3/4” adaptor, 45, 90) and a couple chunks of copper pipe and build it that way.

    #16 8 months ago

    Take Grumpys advice and wait until spring and you no longer need heat.
    It doesnt show where you live but it is likely you will need heat.
    If you go ahead with this job, it will likely be at night or on a weekend. If you need heat, and the job goes wrong, you will have to call out a qualified technician and pay overtime for after hours emergency service.
    If you wait until spring, you have all summer to put parts in and figure it out.

    #17 8 months ago

    I had the same issue , changed the temp/ pressure relief valve and that didn't work . Once the expansion tank is water log there no more expansion , when my pump was running water would drip out of valve . I drained expansion tank and re-pressurized tank . That fixed it .

    Tap expansion tank with a wrench to see if it sounds full or empty

    #18 8 months ago

    PinballAir I'm in Boston. I don't know why it isn't showing location. Thank you all again for the good advice and the help.
    I will wait until spring as advised unless something happens sooner and can't avoid.

    I'll be changing both expansion tank and relief valve. We may be moving again soon and I don't want the next owner to have to worry.

    #19 8 months ago

    This is my order. My intention is to thread the 3/4-3.5" Brass to the new relief valve then 90* FIP elbow off that. Attach 3/4-4" Brass off that to the sharkbite 90* fnpt. I'll use the existing 2 foot pipe to push in to the sharkbite after I cut and smooth the pipe end. The initial 90* will get it away from the autofill pipe the current pipe is almost in contact with. The fitting in to the relief valve is actually loose right now so the whole assembly moves back and forth.
    That sharkbite is some cool stuff. I'm a huge fan of all this type of work. The whole process of welding, plumbing, pipework, fittings, stonework, brickwork, and all types of masonry and concrete work fascinates the hell out of me. I really appreciate the talent it takes to perform and master these professions.
    Thanks again for the help.
    r/
    Mike

    Screenshot 2021-02-09 10.26 (resized).jpg
    #20 8 months ago

    Looks like a good start.

    #21 8 months ago

    I would double check your temp/pressure gauge is reading properly while you've got the pressure off to change the relief valve.

    #22 8 months ago
    Quoted from rwmech5:

    I would double check your temp/pressure gauge is reading properly while you've got the pressure off to change the relief valve.

    Unfortunately, I do not possess the requisite knowledge or the tools to perform this function.

    Shout out to supplyhouse and UPS. Ordered at 1100 on the 9th. 30 hours later it was on my back porch. This transaction is Bella approved.
    20210210_170716 (Medium) (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #23 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballAir:

    When the fast fill begins to fail water seeps by. Street pressure is 90 psi. The loop creeps up over 30, lifts the relief and is ok for a day or 2.

    Update 2.0.

    I'm trying to get a professional out here as I type this but wanted to update and possibly get smarter (via you all) so I can at least understand what the technician is explaining and or doing when they get here.
    Today I noticed the heat wasn't keeping the house consistent.
    I changed the expansion tank last week because it was pretty straight forward and the leak seemed to subside after a day or 2. Now if I screwed something up by changing this tank then so be it but the valve was right on top of it so it looked simple enough and went smoothly.
    I made a change to the temps in the house where I keep it a consistent 67-68 at all times for now so there isn't a harder demand at any one time. It was going from 63 at night to 70 and back and forth at different times of day etc.... Once I changed the temps it hasn't dripped at all.
    However, comma....
    Like I said, today I noticed around 1430 that the thermostat said 66 and I have it set at 68. I went downstairs and the error codes were blinking (rinnai e75cp) so I reset it. I did see error code 02 and 04 at different times and once each. I ran the hot tap and received no hot water because the boiler wouldn't stay fired and the water would not heat up at all. Like I said, I reset it, it tried to go but did not. I held the reset button and started the de-aeration program mostly by mistake so I had to wait 17 minutes before I could do anything again. Once it was over it was flashing an error code again and I forgot to actually look at it. I hit the reset and it actually fired up and slowly for the last hour and a half it's been heating up and the heat is working and the hot water is functioning. I know it isn't fixed so I've reached out and am trying to get someone here.
    When I went downstairs I recorded this.20210223_174425 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210223_174418 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210223_174326 (Medium) (resized).jpg
    Now the other day when I switched to the tech screen for manual readouts, and prior to even changing the exp tank, I saw the temp go well above 166 but the pressure wasn't above the 26 threshold. But not the mechanical gauge. That has always remained pretty steady and never gone above 140 or 13 pounds. This has me a little nervous. But I look at the manual gauge and you see the picture. These are very different readings and I have no clue what's going on at this point. Airlock? Heat Exchanger blockage maybe?? Anyone got anything that can help me understand this and most of all feel a little less panicked until I can get a technician out here. I can't just call anyone because I don't really trust some of the skill sets around here but I have a professional painter I trust who has friends in his community that have the requisite knowledge and training so I'm waiting patiently to see if one of the professionals in the next town can make some room in their schedule. I'll take anything anyone has in the meantime for answers.
    If I'm coming across as a little nervous it's because I am. Rest assured I'll be educating myself on all things heating/plumbing systems after this is over. It doesn't sit well with me when I can't figure something out to at least the point of a general understanding.
    r/
    Mike

    #24 7 months ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    Update 2.0.
    I'm trying to get a professional out here as I type this but wanted to update and possibly get smarter (via you all) so I can at least understand what the technician is explaining and or doing when they get here.
    Today I noticed the heat wasn't keeping the house consistent.
    I changed the expansion tank last week because it was pretty straight forward and the leak seemed to subside after a day or 2. Now if I screwed something up by changing this tank then so be it but the valve was right on top of it so it looked simple enough and went smoothly.
    I made a change to the temps in the house where I keep it a consistent 67-68 at all times for now so there isn't a harder demand at any one time. It was going from 63 at night to 70 and back and forth at different times of day etc.... Once I changed the temps it hasn't dripped at all.
    However, comma....
    Like I said, today I noticed around 1430 that the thermostat said 66 and I have it set at 68. I went downstairs and the error codes were blinking (rinnai e75cp) so I reset it. I did see error code 02 and 04 at different times and once each. I ran the hot tap and received no hot water because the boiler wouldn't stay fired and the water would not heat up at all. Like I said, I reset it, it tried to go but did not. I held the reset button and started the de-aeration program mostly by mistake so I had to wait 17 minutes before I could do anything again. Once it was over it was flashing an error code again and I forgot to actually look at it. I hit the reset and it actually fired up and slowly for the last hour and a half it's been heating up and the heat is working and the hot water is functioning. I know it isn't fixed so I've reached out and am trying to get someone here.
    When I went downstairs I recorded this.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
    Now the other day when I switched to the tech screen for manual readouts, and prior to even changing the exp tank, I saw the temp go well above 166 but the pressure wasn't above the 26 threshold. But not the mechanical gauge. That has always remained pretty steady and never gone above 140 or 13 pounds. This has me a little nervous. But I look at the manual gauge and you see the picture. These are very different readings and I have no clue what's going on at this point. Airlock? Heat Exchanger blockage maybe?? Anyone got anything that can help me understand this and most of all feel a little less panicked until I can get a technician out here. I can't just call anyone because I don't really trust some of the skill sets around here but I have a professional painter I trust who has friends in his community that have the requisite knowledge and training so I'm waiting patiently to see if one of the professionals in the next town can make some room in their schedule. I'll take anything anyone has in the meantime for answers.
    If I'm coming across as a little nervous it's because I am.
    r/
    Mike

    Wish I could help, but this definitely requires a boiler guy. Not just a plumber. They are not the same.

    #25 7 months ago
    Quoted from JayDee:

    Wish I could help, but this definitely requires a boiler guy. Not just a plumber. They are not the same.

    Definitely please forgive my ignorance. I have tremendous respect for both and do not want to offend anyone. I'm simply ignorant in that world. I have a tentative for Thursday morning. My professional painter will be here because of course I'm having work done in the midst of a possible heating malfunction(murphy's law) and he's gonna connect me to him so I can explain everything I'm seeing before he comes out here. I'll find out if he has the training and I'm confident if not he'll point me in the right direction.
    Thank you.
    r/Mike

    #26 7 months ago

    It’s all cool. I understand what you’re saying. I just wanted to let you know that not all plumbers understand boiler systems as it’s a specialized plumbing field. Didn’t want to see you have to go in circles trying to get this fixed.

    #27 7 months ago

    a T And P is just that it is for temperature and pressure . most set at 150 pounds of pressure and 210 Deg Fahrenheit and made to leak if the system hit them figures or leaks from being old.. so could be just working or bad. No need to drain whole system though/
    You need to power down ..and drain system to zero pressure both head pressure and static /
    Then change the valve out / and the Expansion tank what makes you think it is bad? So not hard .
    Plumber here .. Your T and p depending on draining is a 15 minute fix

    #28 7 months ago

    by the way Tankless systems suck and as a plumber would never install one for myself

    #29 7 months ago

    how big is your house and how far from Heater to the Tap you opened ? The error codes are usually when the Tankless can not keep up with demand and with the cold weather i would imagine others have had error codes and or pressure . Expansion tanks are just shock absorbers and act as a cushion for fluxuating pressures and to protect Tank type GAs heaters/boilers flue pipes from being crushed on a closed system (backflow)

    #30 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinFever:

    how big is your house and how far from Heater to the Tap you opened ? The error codes are usually when the Tankless can not keep up with demand and with the cold weather i would imagine others have had error codes and or pressure . Expansion tanks are just shock absorbers and act as a cushion for fluxuating pressures and to protect Tank type GAs heaters/boilers flue pipes from being crushed on a closed system (backflow)

    Thanks for the responses. 1400 sf. 3 story. plumbing and heating to 2 of the floors. 7 main radiators in the house, 1 smaller radiator in each bathroom. 1 shower far away so I understand the flow issue and lack of hot water for a while. But this is something different. I have a dive sink in the basement 7 feet away. no hot water when it was malfunctioning and the demand wouldn't even get the heater to work basically. Its when I cranked the heat to 70 in here that the system started slowly functioning again. It must've stayed at 90 forever until it started to climb. It was 40 today outside so it wasn't the cold that was the issue today.
    I'm not changing the valve. I don't feel confident that I can properly service the system after the valve change and am almost certain at this point I'd make things worse. The idea for the valve change was I was going to wait til spring when I didn't need heat so I could mess with it. It started leaking a little more each day so I figured I had the expansion tank and was gonna install a new one anyway with the valve at some point so I thought maybe I'd get lucky. Well, I kind of did, until I didn't. All it did was expose a bigger problem that I want a professional to look at and diagnose at this point. I was just hoping to gain a little more education so I can at least speak intelligently to the technician and it will also help me with comprehension when he's trying to explain it to me.
    The fact the electronic readout says the pressure is at 35 when I've never seen it that high tells me something is restricting something somewhere or malfunctioning. Maybe it's electronics and temp sensors. I don't know. This system is 6 years old and have a hard time believing its busted. We had it serviced prior to moving in 2 years ago. I don't know what was performed because we were still in Northern Virginia. Something tells me its never been flushed or cleaned. Water is hard here. That's my fault. Taking crap for granted like usual. Once again ignorance thinking this was basically maintenance free.
    Seems I like to continuously learn hard lessons throughout my life.

    #31 7 months ago

    Oh shit he's going to be texting you at 3am... Good luck - you brought this on yourself ! lol

    #32 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballSTAR:

    Oh shit he's going to be texting you at 3am... Good luck - you brought this on yourself ! lol

    You lost me on that one. Who is texting me at 3am?
    I'm definitely not texting anyone.
    I'm a light sleeper though and have 0 friends so I'm good with it.

    #33 7 months ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    You lost me on that one. Who is texting me at 3am?
    I'm definitely not texting anyone.
    I'm a light sleeper though and have 0 friends so I'm good with it.

    I think he’s talking about Richie wrench texting you

    #34 7 months ago
    Quoted from JayDee:

    I think he’s talking about Richie wrench texting you

    Ohhhh. #12 Richie. I get it now. He texts his distributor at like 3am I think I remember reading. I'm slow these days.
    He seems like a nice guy so no problem there. He's a Mopar guy so I know I'd get along with him.

    #35 7 months ago

    Yer not slow,just your mind is racing with this house concern.
    I am the same way.....wanna know-and be my own best choice.Fukd up my gas forced air furnace a couple yrs ago-tech got there,showed what I fukd up-fixed in 5 mins and educated for 229 dollars.........oh well-learned-paid........an education costs something on any level-school,street smarts/ass kicking it all costs something to learn-Lol
    Relax,everybody will survive and you will learn to stay away from those systems-I Kiid-Best to ya man !!

    #36 7 months ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    I changed the expansion tank last week because it was pretty straight forward

    Did you open the fill valve that you had closed earlier after changing the tank? Did you read the manual for the boiler? Is there a minimum water pressure required for it to start heating? Fancy electronics equates to many safeties and error codes, which have to be looked up in the manual.

    #37 7 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Did you open the fill valve that you had closed earlier after changing the tank? Did you read the manual for the boiler? Is there a minimum water pressure required for it to start heating? Fancy electronics equates to many safeties and error codes, which have to be looked up in the manual.

    The only valve I closed was the valve directly on top of the expansion tank. Basically there was no call for heat and no water being used in the house so I shut the valve and unscrewed the tank and replaced it. After I replaced it I turned the valve back on and waited. No leaks so I fired it up and let it build up pressure. No leaks at pressure. The next morning there was half the amount of water in the bucket. I adjusted the house temps to remain constant across 24 hours and it didn't leak a drop for 2 days straight. Everything seemed normal.
    The manual isn't very helpful except for codes and what not. It doesn't spell out literally to turn this or shut that or do this. They make the assumption the operator knows what they are doing at some level.
    I'm out of my depth and will pay for the remaining hands on training I'm about to receive. Looks like Thursday.
    I'm just hoping to get a little smarter from you guys before he gets here. I want to make sure I have this to fall back on so I don't forget anything I've seen or done. He needs to know everything that's been going on so he can make the best troubleshooting choice.
    Even if it's a simple fix like topping off or adjusting pressure or bleeding system, I don't even know where to do that. I have to see things done at least once before I can retain it. Reading something does me know good majority of the time unfortunately.
    r/
    Mike

    #38 7 months ago
    20210223_213023 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210223_213037 (Medium) (resized).jpg
    #39 7 months ago

    For the codes that did pop up, what did the manual say was going on?

    #40 7 months ago

    Everything in the pic looks fine.

    #41 7 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    For the codes that did pop up, what did the manual say was going on?

    I found these on the internet actually.
    I'm pretty sure I saw E02 first but I definitely saw E04. E02 makes some sense to me if I did see it.
    I went and checked and had gas flow to the system after reading this. Gas wasn't the issue.
    Error code: E02
    1. No temperature difference between supply (3) and return (4)
    2. There is a temperature difference between supply (3) and return (4)
    Solution for error code E02
    Check the data in Error mode. Boiler data during error.
    1 error = 02
    2 operational status = 02
    3 supply temp. = xx*
    4 return temp. = xx*
    5 kW burner = xx**
    6 % pump = xx*
    * = variable value
    **= x 3451 = BTU/hr
    1.Boiler has not been able to ignite any gas or has not received any gas. Boilertries to start 6 times with an increasing starting load after the safety time.
    Check whether:
    - the gas valve is open;
    - there is power to the gas valve;
    - that the gas valve opens
    The minimum gas pre-pressure during the start must be a minimum of 7"W.C.(17 mbar), check the 24 Volts in the gas during ignition block’s open position.
    2. Boiler has gone out after ignition. Due to insuf? cient ionization the burner has gone out after ignition.
    Ionization ?ow, ionization cable or the O2 setting. The minimum ionization current should be 4 μA, the O2 should be a minimum of 4.4% for NG or 4.8% for LP

    E04 looks to be like a 3 and clear code on your car. (maybe 02 caused 04)

    Error code: E04
    Cause of error code E04
    The controller has detected a program error

    Solution for error code E04
    Reset the boiler. the boiler automatically indicates this message if during an error read-out the electrical power to the boiler is shut off. After the power has once again switched on, if the error causing the interference is no longer present, this message is given.

    Rectify the preceding error, If Error 04 persists, and preceding errors do not occur, replace controller.

    #42 7 months ago

    These error codes sounds like your having trouble with flame lighting. This would have nothing to do with replacing the pressure tank or changing the heating schedule to run a single temperature 24/7. Most likely the flame sensor needs cleaning from lack of maintenance, if it has this type of sensor. I can't say for sure as I have never worked on this brand of boiler.

    #43 7 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    These error codes sounds like your having trouble with flame lighting. This would have nothing to do with replacing the pressure tank or changing the heating schedule to run a single temperature 24/7. Most likely the flame sensor needs cleaning from lack of maintenance, if it has this type of sensor. I can't say for sure as I have never worked on this brand of boiler.

    Will update for sure Thursday. I'll make sure I get it all out there even if I have to write it all out.
    Thank you.
    r/
    Mike

    #44 7 months ago

    The relief on that loop is not a T&P.
    It is just a pressure relief that lifts if the loop pressure exceeds 30 psi.

    #45 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballAir:

    The relief on that loop is not a T&P.
    It is just a pressure relief that lifts if the loop pressure exceeds 30 psi.

    It is definitely doing it's job. Loop pressure is most definitely exceeding 30 at the top of the heat demand. It relieves itself once the heat shuts off. Not as much as it was leaking though. I was able to get a professional to come tomorrow. I'll update with findings and hopefully get some closure on this tomorrow.
    Hopefully nothing is blocked but that no firing issue and error codes yesterday was a little nerve wracking. I'm still hoping something big hasn't failed as well but I'm probably dreaming.
    r/
    Mike

    #46 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballAir:

    The relief on that loop is not a T&P.
    It is just a pressure relief that lifts if the loop pressure exceeds 30 psi.

    if it is a PRV there should be no pin Lever ,rather a dial .

    As far as Ignition problems if the Thermocouple(what senses heat(flame)) is not working it will not let gas through

    #47 7 months ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    Thanks for the responses. 1400 sf. 3 story. plumbing and heating to 2 of the floors.

    awefully big house for this systems piping i see. Mostly 3/4 pipe i see .
    hope you know you lose a pipe size every 70 feet of run and if no booster pump only so many fixture units will get to the tap so far away ..
    Anyway good luck to ya

    #48 7 months ago

    So...?

    #49 7 months ago

    Sorry didn't mean to ghost. My phone broke and there's more than a few challenges going on at the house right now.
    He said expansion tank was a good job and fine.
    Changed the filler valve and the 30 psi valve.
    We bled the system and all the radiators.
    Ended up bumping the fill too much and it weeped first night. I dumped some water and it seems to be holding now.
    He said it may be the DHW leaking in to the heating plate itself in the actual boiler if it keeps up.
    He is not a fan of gas boilers as I've seen a pattern here emerging. I'll take oil any day over this mess.
    The life span on these isn't like i would've thought.

    More later I'm late for something.
    r/
    Mike

    #50 7 months ago

    ok, back at the house.
    When we were bleeding actual radiators (there are 9 in the house) One of the 2nd floor radiators wouldn't give a steady stream and would just drip so he went downstairs and bumped the fill pressure up. The drip never really got any better but thinking it may be one of the many coats of paint maybe on the radiator bleed outlet itself? That radiator has always worked very well so can't imagine there's air left in there. Or maybe it's some blockage up at the top of the bleeder valve. Don't know but I'm not chasing that because it works fine.
    Anyway we didn't really go back to discuss the bumped fill pressure and he had left long before the actual demand exceeded the 30 psi.
    When it leaked and after the heat wasn't called for any more, I just opened the 30 psi valve and quickly relieved the pressure/water from 33 to like 28 and stopped. Now whether that is all that is needed to actually adjust the pressure on a permanent basis I have zero clue and guessing it isn't the correct way.
    But over the last 2 days it has worked well and the system remains working without any water in the pan underneath. More likely the system corrected itself and not so much something I did. The other thing is I keep it pretty consistent at 67-69 so there's no super hard demand excessive heat possibly keeping the pressure in check.
    It will drive me nuts until the end of time unfortunately because my brain will not allow me to let it go.
    He was an oil guy and does not troubleshoot gas boilers beyond plumbing systems up to the box itself.
    I was aware of this prior to him arriving but wanted the basics done to eliminate the easy stuff. The 30 psi valve was on the outs and corroded so at least we made one correct call.
    r/
    Mike

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