(Topic ID: 135397)

Calling all Sys 3 gurus...Help me get Frank Thomas off the DL

By 27dnast

8 years ago


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  • 32 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by 27dnast
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Just finished a strip-down shop out of a Frank Thomas. She's all put together and squeaky clean. Game was purchased as-is without testing. Upon initial turn on, post shop, one thing seems to be going wrong: a flasher is stuck on...

Upon starting a game, the lower left flopper becomes energized and becomes stuck up/on.

This is the first Sys 3 I've trouble shot... It seems like this is probably an issue on the driver board? But... My ability to read schematics blows. So, someone with some guidance in them would be embraced!

Thanks, Todd

#2 8 years ago

Definitely a bad transistor just need to figure out which one .thats where I cant help since the manual isnt available online like others.

#3 8 years ago

Aren't flippers in the special solenoid area. By the relay test the transistors in that area.
Hell test em all.

#4 8 years ago

Special solenoid area? Not on A3?

#5 8 years ago

A System 3 flipper can only be energized by a stuck switch, (flipper cabinet), or a short somewhere on the flipper wiring. There has to be a path to ground for the coil to energize.

What flasher is stuck on?

#6 8 years ago

Just figured out the flipper before I logged back on...a little switch adjustment and it's no longer staying energized. Can't believe I didn't check that first!

The flasher that's getting stuck on is flasher number 6 (which is to the left of the looping scoop with the umpire graphic on top...left side of playfield). It stays on from the time the game is turned on and remains on once the game has been turned off.

Also have noticed that the auto launcher isn't working... I'll have to check that out tomorrow.

I pulled the A3 board...checked all of the transistors...nothing is testing funny...

#7 8 years ago

Stays on when the game is turned off????

#8 8 years ago

Posting to mark it so I can check mine in the morning

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinthetic:

Stays on when the game is turned off????

Yeah... I know... Flip the power off and the entire machine goes black accept that flasher... It continues to shine and very slowly fades.

This will probably mean something to someone... Has me scratching my head

#10 8 years ago

Ok...had a brief moment before work to flip the game on... there are some flashers that aren't working - at all - on the game...and I have one that is stuck on. Also, the auto launcher works in test mode...but doesn't launch during the game (shooter lane switch does register in test mode).

Those look to be the two biggest issues. Hopefully someone will have some thoughts. I'm beginning to wonder if the flashers are all tied together somehow...there's a broken or pinched wire, perhaps?

#11 8 years ago

There is a resistor under the playfield that if it goes all flashers will go out. I think that one is mounted on the left side of the playfield, I'm not sure where, I can find the location tomorrow maybe, but I had the problem on my gladiators and replacing that fixed it

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

There is a resistor under the playfield that if it goes all flashers will go out. I think that one is mounted on the left side of the playfield, I'm not sure where, I can find the location tomorrow maybe, but I had the problem on my Gladiators and replacing that fixed it

I think that was mainly the 80B's that had the 5-10W resistors for the flashers under the playfield.

Check the fuse for the flashers. It's F6 on Stargate--I'm not sure if it's the same for Big Hurt.

#13 8 years ago

I've checked the fuses...they all seem fine. I did find an auxiliary driver board on the back of the back-box swing door. It has a bad transistor (Q7) So, need to order that and get it repaired. All of the other transistors on the board checked-out.

Here's a is what's happening:

1) Auto kicker (works in test mode...so does shooter switch) won't auto fire during game
2)Three flashers under solenoid aren't working (#16, L. Dome Card Holder, #18, R. Dome Card Holder, #26 Ticket Coin Reader) and four flashers under Driver (Diver 0, Left Ramp #1-67, Driver 2 Left Ramp #3-67, Driver 3, Right Ramp #3-67, and Driver 6, Scoop 67) aren't working.

I'm wondering if the flashers running under solenoid are simply an issue of polarity?

I'm also wondering if all flashers running under driver are located on the auxiliary board?

I watched Clay's video on System 3. I haven't performed his suggested ground mod yet...

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I'm also wondering if all flashers running under driver are located on the auxiliary board?

The backbox flashers? Most likely.

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I think that was mainly the 80B's that had the 5-10W resistors for the flashers under the playfield.
Check the fuse for the flashers. It's F6 on Stargate--I'm not sure if it's the same for Big Hurt.

I know gladiators and big hurt both have them, and they are both system 3 games, didn't know that was an 80b thing as well. It doesn't sound like that would be the problem anyways, because all flashers would be dead if that was bad

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

The backbox flashers? Most likely.

There's more transistors on the board than there are flashers in the backbone... and with one burned out...seems logical that they must control the playfield flashers too

#17 8 years ago

There are two "sets" of flashers in FTBH - one set is controlled by the A3 driver board in the backbox and one set is controlled by the aux driver board on the back of the insert. Each set receives its power through a .33 ohm 5w resistor. The set controlled by the A3 board has its resistor located under the playfield. You can see it in this excellent photo that Chris Hibler posted on IPDB under the subway on the lower left:

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3591&picno=52461&zoom=1

Or even better on this one he posted on Pinwiki:

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:System3FlashLampResistor.jpg

The set controlled by the aux driver board has it's resistor located on the back of the insert board just below the aux driver board:

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3591&picno=52459&zoom=1

Early AN Sys3 games went to resistor boards for the flashers but later DMD games went back to a single resistor for groups of flashers. There were problems with the resistor boards and the resistors would unsolder themselves.

You can see which flashers are controlled by which board in this shot. The yellow are controlled by the A3 board, indicated by "SOL", and the red by the aux driver board, indicated by "DRV":

Big Hurt flashersBig Hurt flashers

Quoted from 27dnast:

I pulled the A3 board...checked all of the transistors...nothing is testing funny...

You mentioned you went through the game and its squeaky clean. Did you install LEDs? Assuming you tested all the MOSFETs and they all tested the same and there were no signs of damage then the only conclusion is that the two flashers that you say are out that are controlled by the A3 board (left and right card holder) are either bad, or bad sockets or bad wiring or the flashers are not connected on one or both ends to the harness or you missed something in your test of the A3 board. You know which MOSFET it is on the A3 board by adding 1 to the solenoid number. The left flasher is SOL17 which means its controlled by Q18 on the driver board. The other one is Q19.

Unless you have a ticket dispenser or a mechanical coin meter on the machine then I wouldn't expect SOL26 to do anything in test.

Your autoplunger not working could be a bad LED. Here's how to check it out:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-freddy-issues#post-2026317

Some of the flashers controlled by the aux driver board are paired with the playfield and backbox flashers but as you correctly surmised,

Quoted from 27dnast:

There's more transistors on the board than there are flashers in the backbone... and with one burned out...seems logical that they must control the playfield flashers too

DRV6 and DRV7 control only flashers on the playfield per the diagram above. All the other ones have both a flasher on the playfield and a flasher in the backbox. The backbox flasher map is as follows:

Big Hurt backbox flashersBig Hurt backbox flashers

It's not uncommon for the MOSFETs on the aux driver board to blow. In fact you have to make sure there are no BUZ72s on the board or it will wind up like this:

http://www.homepin.com/MA1722.html

(He took the burnt board photos from my Pinside post).

Replace ALL BUZ72s you find with IRL530/IRL540. If you don't, your board will look like the one in the photos.

Todd, If you need more info PM me.

viperrwk

#18 8 years ago

Viper... thanks for the really thoughtful post. I'll respond in due time! Thanks!!!

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

There are two "sets" of flashers in FTBH - one set is controlled by the A3 driver board in the backbox and one set is controlled by the aux driver board on the back of the insert. Each set receives its power through a .33 ohm 5w resistor.

Roger. Some of the flashers controlled by each board are working, that means the resistors should be ok. Right?

Quoted from viperrwk:

Did you install LEDs? Assuming you tested all the MOSFETs and they all tested the same and there were no signs of damage then the only conclusion is that the two flashers that you say are out that are controlled by the A3 board (left and right card holder) are either bad, or bad sockets or bad wiring or the flashers are not connected on one or both ends to the harness or you missed something in your test of the A3 board. You know which MOSFET it is on the A3 board by adding 1 to the solenoid number. The left flasher is SOL17 which means its controlled by Q18 on the driver board. The other one is Q19.

Yes, LEDs throughout. Looks like I need to go through and check continuity in wiring. I took the apron apart yesterday and inspected the flashers and sockets...along with the harness...everything appeared ok. Will do some more in-depth testing.

Thanks for the explanation of how to relate the solenoids to the driver board. Made me curious to dig back into Gottliebs manual and just came across the schematic showing this. Thanks

I've ordered replacement parts from Marco and they should be coming by the end of the week. I'll repair the Aux Driver board and then go through the process of retesting the A3 board...checking wiring, etc.

Quoted from viperrwk:

Unless you have a ticket dispenser or a mechanical coin meter on the machine then I wouldn't expect SOL26 to do anything in test.

It doesn't...I don't know... and this makes perfect sense. Thanks.

Quoted from viperrwk:

Your autoplunger not working could be a bad LED. Here's how to check it out:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-freddy-issues#post-2026317

I'll investigate.

Quoted from viperrwk:

Some of the flashers controlled by the aux driver board are paired with the playfield and backbox flashers but as you correctly surmised,

DRV6 and DRV7 control only flashers on the playfield per the diagram above. All the other ones have both a flasher on the playfield and a flasher in the backbox. The backbox flasher map is as follows:
Big Hurt backbox flashers
It's not uncommon for the MOSFETs on the aux driver board to blow. In fact you have to make sure there are no BUZ72s on the board or it will wind up like this:
http://www.homepin.com/MA1722.html
(He took the burnt board photos from my Pinside post).
Replace ALL BUZ72s you find with IRL530/IRL540. If you don't, your board will look like the one in the photos.

Ok. I'll check when I replace the MOSFETs.

Thanks Viper!!!

Todd

#20 8 years ago

Just a little update...I've worked out the flasher issues and the auto ball launcher. The flashers ended up being a combination of bad MOSFETs and bulbs that needed to be reseated. Somewhere along the line the ball launcher started working ---think it was a little tweak to the shooter lane switch...

I do have two optos that are not working...not sure why I didn't check them when I had the playfield stripped..but one of the orbit optos isn't registering and there are two solid red lights on the opto board under the playfield (which I'm fairly sure means two optos aren't functioning properly... correct)? My plan is to gain access to the optos...clean them, make sure they're aligned, and reflow their solder joints. Hopefully that will take care of the issues.

She's really - really - really - close to having 100% life. I've been able to play some games (of course, the game can't be completely played without the optos all working correctly), and the game is totally fun! I'm a baseball nut, and the theme is a homerun!

Any tips on the optos, please share! Biggest question: is there a way to relate the lit LED on the opto board to the switch schematic in the manual (to confirm which switches the lit LEDs match?).

IMG_5869.JPGIMG_5869.JPG

#21 8 years ago

I had a similar opto problem. This was almost ten years ago, my memory is a little foggy, but i know it was on the opto board. Resistor heated itself off the board? I can't remember exactly. Whatever it was, it was visually obvious and an easy fix. Hopefully yours will be too. The board is a lot easier to get to than the optos, I would check that out. I miss the game, good luck!.

#22 8 years ago

Follow your plan.
That's a good start.

Next, as Shredso mentioned, the opto boards under the PF are easy to get at. They have an LED on them that light when the opto triggers.

After that, it's time to replace the optos.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Optical_Switch_Problems

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#23 8 years ago

Chris... so, none of the opto lights should be on...correct? If they are on, probably a sign that something's not right. Yes?

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Chris... so, none of the opto lights should be on...correct? If they are on, probably a sign that something's not right. Yes?

I can't recall the sense of the LEDs....does on mean open or closed? Good news though. FTBH has two 4 opto control boards. Check the other one out. At this point, either all LEDs should be on or all LEDs should be off. If one of them is "off norm", and the opto is NOT blocked...that's a smoking gun.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#25 8 years ago

Roger that. I'll life the hood tomorrow and do some investigating. Thanks Chris!

#26 8 years ago

I had the same problem with my Waterworld optos. Make sure you clean the optos first with a q tip and alcohol that solved my problem. The light should be off till the beam is broken and that is when the light comes on. Clean them good and you should be fine.

#27 8 years ago

***Update*** (need a bit more help)

So I've found the problem with the Optos... after taking the game apart, cleaning and reflowing the optos...Opto 80 and Opto 90 were still registering as closed. So I decided to pull the opto board. When I did, I discovered that a resistor was broken (circled in red) and one resistor is missing. I fixed the broken resistor and Opto 80 is now fully functioning.

Great news!

The bad news is that Opto 90's part of the board needs a resistor. I looked through the manual and it looks like there are only 7 optos in the game and the two opto boards control 8. I know the *right way* is to order a new resistor. Which I will do. In the meantime, I'm hoping that I can pull a resistor from one of one of the two opto boards (section not being used) in order to put in it in the place the currently missing resistor. I've looked in the manual (Page 39) and have a tried to look over the schematics to see if I could identify which resistor is not in use... I'm such a novice at schematics, that my eyes can't identify it.

I'm wondering if someone has a moment to see if they can identify it...and give a quick explanation as to how they did it?

IMG_5874.JPGIMG_5874.JPG

IMG_5873.JPGIMG_5873.JPG

#28 8 years ago

You can ID the board (probably) that supports only 3 optos by checking the wire bundles.mthemone that is a wire short (or two) will be the one that supports fewer optos.mthen you can probably trace from the connector to the part to ID the "spare" Lane.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#29 8 years ago

I'll see if I can identify it...

#30 8 years ago

Got it. Repairs are done, game works!

Chris, I owe you (another) brewski!!

I think it's time for Frank to get off the DL and get in the game!!!

#31 8 years ago

Woot woot!
I didn't think I'd like FTBH given that Shaq is such an irritating game. But I had one here for a couple of weeks and liked it. Enjoy the game.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#32 8 years ago

I agree...I think it's a hidden gem. There's a location about about 45 min from my home that has one in really rough shape..."operating on crutches" situation. Years ago I played it extensively and thought it was a lot of fun...then had an opportunity to jump on the one own when I came across it being sold "as-is". Bought it based on pictures. The game turned out to be in really nice shape beneath the dust and crud on the playfield - cleaned-up really well. Ended up needing a new glove motor, repairs to the opto boards, repairs to the Aux Driver board, a new tongue on the shooter lane ramp, flipper rebuilds, a strip down cleaning (along with new new rubbers, etc), a new skill shot drop-down guide-wire mechanism, new decals, and I put LEDs throughout. It's plays super fast.

The amount of hardware on the playfield would cost a fortune to implement this day and age.

I'm thinking about pulling the Gottlieb flipper bats...I bought new replacements from Steve Young, but it seems like the narrow rubber on the bat induces some airballs on fast moving orbit shots.

Thanks again for all the help...all of you...I hope I can return the favor at some point. At least this thread will contain some info that might prove useful to someone that comes across similar issues.

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