Snapped a few with my phone, let me know if you want an up close of a particular area.image-433.jpgimage-16.jpgimage-241.jpgimage-387.jpgimage-333.jpg

No prob man, good luck with your fix!

Not sure how much this will help but I discovered a similar issue regarding J109-7. Posted in a different forum but no feedback yet. My guess is since this is a fliptronics2 game it doesn't use the power from driver board on J109 so it was likely someone just wired up one of the two violet-orange wires to that and the other to J107-2.

Picked up a Getaway that was a reimport. Definitely have some work to do on various issues and wire hacks but am starting with the ball plunger which is not working.

Steps taken
1) Verified all voltages on boards. Checked all leds and voltage test points on driver board etc.
2) check for dc power at solenoid = no power
3) check for power at "High Current Driver Board" J1-6 = no power
4) check for power on driver board at J107-2 =good

Now this is where I got puzzled. The manual says J107-2 (violet-orange) but the test menu diag says J107-1 (violet-green) for plunger solenoid. There are two violet-orange wires at front of machine. One for the trough or outhole (either menu or me has these backwards) and one for plunger. The outhole goes back to J107-2 but the Plunger goes back to J109-7 (labeled flipper power on driver board). Now I believe this is a fliptronics 2 game so have no idea why anything is on J109-7. I believe both (violet-orange) wires should be on J107-2 but not sure how that would be accomplished w/o cutting and splicing.

4) check power at J109-7 = no power
5) check fuse @ F102 which is for LWR right flipper based on board = Fuse Blown

So here I am with a blown fuse with a wire somewhere it likely shouldn't be.

So my questions.
1) Is J109-7 safe to use for low power. It seems this was wired this way from the beginning
2) Should I and how would I get both violet-orange wires in J107-2.
3) why is the diag menu saying one thing (regarding wire color) but reality and manual shows another
4) Is it the "trough" solenoid that kicks ball into shooter lane or "outhole" solenoid? If outhole the menu is wrong for this too.
IMG_20140126_205707.jpg

I would guess you have a break in your original 50v wiring and the hacker decided to run a new line instead of finding where the break was and fixing it. You can test this theory by checking continuity from the old 50v line at the board to the solenoids.

Sean

I agree with your plan of attack. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sean

EDIT: the way this reads with regards J109-7 sounds stupid and incorrect, see here for further explanation: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/calling-all-getaway-owners-i-need-some-pics#post-1442761

IMHO J109-7 is a factory mod - if this was done in the field there is a very slim chance that techs all over the world used the same colored wire for the same mod (unless it was supplied by Williams as part of a service bulletin).

As for the up/down ramp - mine also has the thinner wire (can grab a picture if you really want one).

In general, wire hacks are seldom done 'neatly' - that is to say: corresponding wire colors (usually it is what they have on hand - so could be red, black, green, etc.), wire gauge different, wire added 'nicely' to the bundle - old tie wraps cut and all new ones added making it look factory. Usually the wire is just tie wrap (if at all) here and there along the wire bundle just to sort of tie it up. Also not likely that a field tech will remove a pin from a socket, cut the old pin off and crimp on a new one vs stripping the wire and soldering the hack to it and wrapping in tape.

Of course there would be techs that are exceptions to those.

The violet/yellow wire carries the voltage to the solenoids. This wire is daisy chained between 9 different solenoids(solenoids 1-8 & 10 in the table). The violet/red wire on the up ramp solenoid is the control wire that goes to the driver board, specifically Q80 through connector J130, pin 2. This info is on page 3-7. This part of your machine is wired correctly per the manual. I would say you are ok.

I don't think J109-7 is suppose to tie into the J107-2 run. I don't see anything in the manual that references J109 going anywhere to the playfield in the manual.

A Mystery we are trying to uncover. search of planetary pinball doesn't show any service bulletin's for getaway.

This wire nut is likely the hack in yours. I am going to double check mine but believe J109-7 went straight to high current driver board (One long run). Will revert after testing but think from the wire nut your 107-2 line should go to outhole and end; your J109-7 should go to HC board and from there to plunger. There must have been a break or something at this point.

I verified my j109-7 is straight run all the way to HC board. It has no continuity with 107-2. the two violet orange wires split right behind flipper coils with J109-7 line going to HC board and 107-2 going to ball eject/outhole whatever you call it. hope this pic helps. My playfield is out at the moment so made this fairly easy

IMG_20140208_202414.jpg

Sorry for not getting back earlier, but looks like jacklick had already posted what I found on my machine as well. I will try to be a bit quicker if you have any further questions.

edit - I just read my original post and it looks incorrect the way I had posted it with regards to J109-7 being a 'factory mod'. I was referring to the Molex end (I need to both type and read better ), the wire nut side is an obvious hack (for whatever reason) as any factory wouldn't use a wire nut on this type of wiring. They are reserved for main power feed and would also be located inside a box as per laws that exist here in north America.

Sorry if this caused some issues and will be a bit more clear/careful the next time.

Just chiming in on an old post that might help someone in the future. So last night I was wiring in some trough lights on my Getaway and noticed while working on it, the plunger quit working. It wouldn't work at all; not in normal play or in the solenoid test (so I knew it wasn't the shifter). Got out the manual, got out the multimeter and logic probe. The High Current Driver Board powers the plunger. According to the manual, J1-6 on the HCDB is fed +50vdc through a violet/orange wire from J107-2 on the Power Driver Board. After checking and verifying the voltage was hot at the PDB (I actually saw about +72vdc at J107-2), I checked the other end of the cable at J1-6 and it was dead (zero). The wire color was violet/orange on both ends but... the HCDB end was a violet/orange stripe where the PDB end was violet/orange rings. Doh! It wasn't the same wire. So I chased the wire from the HCDB all the way to the PDB and it was connected to J109-7, marked Flipper Power. So to me, the manual is wrong, at least on my machine and a couple others mentioned here. The plunger gets its power through J109-7, not J107-2. Immediately after that, I realized the fuse at F102 was blown, which replaced and all it functional once again.

IMG_5037 (resized).jpg