(Topic ID: 231631)

Calling all early Bally SS experts! EBD help needed!


By Dewey68

10 months ago



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  • 67 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#38 4 months ago

You probably already went over this, but just to be sure: you put a ball in the game, right?
If so, run the switch test and make sure the game sees that the ball is in the outhole.

#40 4 months ago

I only suggested it because a lot of games won't start without a ball sitting in the outhole

You're in good hands here, you'll be flipping that wonderful game in no time!

#43 4 months ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Also, enter lamp test and make sure the solenoid expander lite blinks and the relay clicks.

Also make sure you have a regular *incandescent* bulb installed for the solenoid expander--having an LED installed can cause weird behavior as well.

3 months later
#49 44 days ago

Looks like the rear inline target and credit button are both on the same switch matrix strobe line, ST0.

Has the female connector for J2 or J3 been re-pinned for the mpu? Almost sounds like it could have a wire on the wrong pin or something like that.
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#51 44 days ago

Here's a chart with the color codes that will help make this easier:Screenshot_20190905_093345_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Now note the connector labeling for the credit switch: A4J3-2 and the number 13 on the box to the left: 1966438453.png

That 13 is representing the color of the wire going to that pin. 1 = red, 3 = yellow. So you should have a red wire with yellow stripe going to connector J3 of the MPU board (A4), pin 2.

Look at the other side of the credit/reset switch--you'll see it goes to A4J3-14 and has the number 25 in a box. That means you should have a blue wire (2) with a white (5) stripe at pin 14 of connector J3 on the MPU(A4). Verify those wires are in their correct spots, as well as the 2 wires for the back inline target using the same method for determining wire colors.

#54 41 days ago

You appear to have your pins in the wrong spots at the bottom of the J3 connector! See where pin 14 is, the blue/white wire? You have it at position *13*. You need to double check your wiring for J3 on the schematic, but you probably just need to move those last 3 pins down one spot. Move blue/white to 14, black/brown to 15, and yellow to 16. (The last slot in the connector is pin 16)
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Found the wiring chart in the schematic, btw. Just use the color code chart above to determine which wires go to which spots. Note that they may reference wires that aren't present at your connector--that's ok. Just make sure the wires that are present at the connector are in their appropriate slots. Looking over there chart, it looks like the wires in the middle of the connector are also in the wrong spots... a bit of connector work and hopefully you'll be up and running!
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#60 39 days ago

Nice! Have you tested all the playfield switches to make sure they all register properly?

As far as the bumper problem, which one are you referring to? The right slingshot or the right pop bumper?

You can run the coil test and see if the bumper fires in the test. If it does, it may just be the activation switch that needs to be adjusted. If it doesn't fire, then we'll need to do a little more digging. Note that the flipper relay should click at some point in the coil test, listen carefully for it towards the end of the cycle. The relay is on the solenoid driver board in the backbox. Do you hear it click?

#63 38 days ago

Considering you had trouble with one of the connectors, I'd go back and re-check the rest of your work. With the schematics and color codes, you should be able to determine where each wire should go. Just ask for help if you run into any problems/questions.

If you put the game in coil test and hold a flipper button in during the test, that flipper should flip when the relay on the solenoid driver board clicks. Give that a try too, and let us know what happens.

The soldering looks a little heavy-handed around the pop bumper switch, I'd get a close look and make sure none of the solder lugs on the switch are touching each other or anything nearby. As billc479 suggested, i also would recommend clipping off the cap and see if that corrects the behavior.

The drop target switch that isn't registering may just need to be cleaned and/or adjusted, or a wire/diode may have broken off the switch.

3 weeks later
#67 13 days ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

And the fun continues. The right pop bumper is working, and I now have one working flipper. The J2 connector to the solenoid board was reversed. The left flippers are working, but not the right one. From the schematics it looks like they should be on pin 1 and pin 2 correct?

Yep, pin 1 & 2 for the switches. Also J1 pins 8 & 9 for the coils:

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