(Topic ID: 231631)

Calling all early Bally SS experts! EBD help needed!


By Dewey68

9 months ago



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  • 65 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 65 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 10 days ago

Here's a chart with the color codes that will help make this easier:Screenshot_20190905_093345_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Now note the connector labeling for the credit switch: A4J3-2 and the number 13 on the box to the left: 1966438453.png

That 13 is representing the color of the wire going to that pin. 1 = red, 3 = yellow. So you should have a red wire with yellow stripe going to connector J3 of the MPU board (A4), pin 2.

Look at the other side of the credit/reset switch--you'll see it goes to A4J3-14 and has the number 25 in a box. That means you should have a blue wire (2) with a white (5) stripe at pin 14 of connector J3 on the MPU(A4). Verify those wires are in their correct spots, as well as the 2 wires for the back inline target using the same method for determining wire colors.

#52 10 days ago

When I redid the connectors on my Skateball I was very careful but still managed to reverse two wires. It took a while to track down.

#53 7 days ago

Thursday night I forgot the Bears were on and it's taken me this long to bring myself off the ledge. Now back to pinball. The connectors look to be pinned correctly.

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#54 7 days ago

You appear to have your pins in the wrong spots at the bottom of the J3 connector! See where pin 14 is, the blue/white wire? You have it at position *13*. You need to double check your wiring for J3 on the schematic, but you probably just need to move those last 3 pins down one spot. Move blue/white to 14, black/brown to 15, and yellow to 16. (The last slot in the connector is pin 16)
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Found the wiring chart in the schematic, btw. Just use the color code chart above to determine which wires go to which spots. Note that they may reference wires that aren't present at your connector--that's ok. Just make sure the wires that are present at the connector are in their appropriate slots. Looking over there chart, it looks like the wires in the middle of the connector are also in the wrong spots... a bit of connector work and hopefully you'll be up and running!
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#55 7 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

You appear to have your pins in the wrong spots at the bottom of the J3 connector! See where pin 14 is, the blue/white wire? You have it at position *13*. You need to double check your wiring for J3 on the schematic, but you probably just need to move those last 3 pins down one spot. Move blue/white to 14, black/brown to 15, and yellow to 16. (The last slot in the connector is pin 16)
[quoted image]
Found the wiring chart in the schematic, btw. Just use the color code chart above to determine which wires go to which spots. Note that they may reference wires that aren't present at your connector--that's ok. Just make sure the wires that are present at the connector are in their appropriate slots. Looking over there chart, it looks like the wires in the middle of the connector are also in the wrong spots... a bit of connector work and hopefully you'll be up and running!
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D'oh! Thank you so much for the help, I'll check that connector and post back with my results.

#56 6 days ago

Bally schematics are confusing because they separate the cabinet wiring from the playfield. To make it easier to troubleshoot I pencil in the coin and credit button switches into the playfield schematic which normally shows them as blank positions.

The credit switch is at the intersection of ST0 and I5. Since the credit button is in the cabinet looking at the cabinet schematic above the wires go to to J3-2 is ST0, and J3-14 is I5.

So here is your puzzle. Pencil in the cabinet switches into the blank positions on the playfield matrix. Now read the matrix like a road map. You need to drive from S0 to via the credit button to I4. If that route forces you to go backwards through a diode there's your problem.

#57 6 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Now read the matrix like a road map. You need to drive from S0 to via the credit button to I4. If that route forces you to go backwards through a diode there's your problem.

BigAl56, thanks to the Waze app I can't read a map now either!

I'll check that out if correcting the pin layout doesn't fix the issue. Thank you.

#58 6 days ago

It's getting there! I moved those pins down and it will start a game now. Three outstanding issues I need to track down that I noticed. 1) no flippers 2) right bumper is not firing 3) There's no background sound effects. Other than those 3 things it seems to working correctly. Thanks for all the help.

#59 6 days ago

Note that the background sound effects can be disabled in the settings. That may be your problem with the missing sounds.

#60 6 days ago

Nice! Have you tested all the playfield switches to make sure they all register properly?

As far as the bumper problem, which one are you referring to? The right slingshot or the right pop bumper?

You can run the coil test and see if the bumper fires in the test. If it does, it may just be the activation switch that needs to be adjusted. If it doesn't fire, then we'll need to do a little more digging. Note that the flipper relay should click at some point in the coil test, listen carefully for it towards the end of the cycle. The relay is on the solenoid driver board in the backbox. Do you hear it click?

#61 5 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

Nice! Have you tested all the playfield switches to make sure they all register properly?
As far as the bumper problem, which one are you referring to? The right slingshot or the right pop bumper?
You can run the coil test and see if the bumper fires in the test. If it does, it may just be the activation switch that needs to be adjusted. If it doesn't fire, then we'll need to do a little more digging. Note that the flipper relay should click at some point in the coil test, listen carefully for it towards the end of the cycle. The relay is on the solenoid driver board in the backbox. Do you hear it click?

All switches registering except one on the bank of ball drop targets. The right pop bumper switch is registering, but the solenoid is not firing. The pin has an Alltek solenoid board in it and it does have a red flashing LED during the solenoid test which looks like it's indicating a short?

The relay is clicking on the solenoid driver board. I'm wondering if I've screwed up the pin sequence on a connector there too.

What is the circular component that isn't connected correctly on the right pop bumper switch here? A resistor?

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#62 5 days ago

The round thing is a capacitor. Clip one side off (or desolder) and see if the problem goes away. It’s possible the capacitor is shorted.

#63 4 days ago

Considering you had trouble with one of the connectors, I'd go back and re-check the rest of your work. With the schematics and color codes, you should be able to determine where each wire should go. Just ask for help if you run into any problems/questions.

If you put the game in coil test and hold a flipper button in during the test, that flipper should flip when the relay on the solenoid driver board clicks. Give that a try too, and let us know what happens.

The soldering looks a little heavy-handed around the pop bumper switch, I'd get a close look and make sure none of the solder lugs on the switch are touching each other or anything nearby. As billc479 suggested, i also would recommend clipping off the cap and see if that corrects the behavior.

The drop target switch that isn't registering may just need to be cleaned and/or adjusted, or a wire/diode may have broken off the switch.

#64 4 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

The round thing is a capacitor. Clip one side off (or desolder) and see if the problem goes away. It’s possible the capacitor is shorted.

Is that to help clean up the signal? It's already clipped on one side. That's why I was curious what it was. I'll leave it as it is for now.

Quoted from frunch:

The soldering looks a little heavy-handed around the pop bumper switch, I'd get a close look and make sure none of the solder lugs on the switch are touching each other or anything nearby. As billc479 suggested, i also would recommend clipping off the cap and see if that corrects the behavior.

Heavy-handed is being polite, it's a frigging mess. I'll be removing the globs and stripping the wiring back and re-soldering those. The signal striped wire going to the coil lug should be the ground side, correct? If I ground that side it should fire.

I'll try the flipper button in the coil test.

#65 4 days ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

Is that to help clean up the signal? It's already clipped on one side. That's why I was curious what it was. I'll leave it as it is for now.

Yes, the cap is to extend the signal pulse on quick hits. If you find your (target) switches are not registering quick hits, replacing the cap will help improve that. Older original caps sometimes become shorted and fail, hence the common sight of them being cut. Once they are cut and the problem cured, they should be replaced - but you will often see them just left cut.

Quoted from Dewey68:

The signal striped wire going to the coil lug should be the ground side, correct? If I ground that side it should fire.
I'll try the flipper button in the coil test.

Another way to determine which side is ground is to look the diode across the coils that have them. The striped side (cathode) of the diode is attached to the power supply side of the coil - grounding the opposite side fires the coil.

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