Joined the club today! Gotta start em young in the Wild West!

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If I wanted to add a couple standard 6.3v lamps to the playfield, how would I do that on a CCr? They don’t use the 6.3v sockets like older pins. Those are easy to add Comet LEDs to. I don’t wanna go full pinstadium or anything, just add a few LEDs above the pf here and there. Ideas?

Yep, exactly. But connected to what power source?

Agree with the above comment. No need to remove the pf to install art blades. If you have a system, ignore the following! It’s tricky to do alone, but with 2 people it’s not bad. My wife helps me, and we’ve installed many sets. The wet method is also helpful, or you can apply them with two people by keeping the blade pulled taught, until the person in the back lines it up where you want it (we use the hinge holes for the head hinge bolts as a guide, but don’t assume you can center the hole in your blade over that bolt hole, sometimes they don’t quite match up perfectly without the blade sitting too high or low) and keeping the blade just slightly below the channel for the pf glass. Then we both press each end and then smooth it all down. That’s the key, imho to perfect placement, keep it 1/8 inch or more below the channel, or it will peel. We have a system for it, but there are other ways. But pulling the pf out isn’t 100% necessary. We just installed different blades on our CCr. Here are ours…

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Added some buildings too…

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OldWestMiniatures on Etsy. They have a saloon, gunsmith, outhouse, hotel, etc. different sizes, 1/87 are small enough to fit.

My CCr is my placeholder until my SE+ is shipped. I was lucky to find a trade partner for a restored B/W 90’s pin for his NOB CCr. Had 50 plays on it. It just wasn’t holding his and his kids’ interest, for whatever reason. So I grabbed an SE to see if it’s a keeper and worth the wait. Spoiler: it is. Even before the new code update add-on package, it’s a fine addition to the CGC family. They have chosen 4 titles with a similar feel. Deep enough that it’s not easy to beat, but simple enough to understand for even casual players. I love the theme, the shots, the flow and the gunfights. I turned my gunfight time down to 3 seconds, so you gotta hit the bad guy on the first, or maaaaaybe second shot. Fun to mod too! The updated code package and innovative topper will be icing. I played my longest game today, qualifying the OK Coral finale, but lost my ball before starting it. Took about 15 mins, which is the right length of time for my attention span!

I was able to add a spotlight without doing much. I hijacked one of the 12v bulbs from the coin return button and used a Comet matrix extension to take it up under the right sling. I need a better bulb to really add some light, but it will help. I might use a splitter and add another on the left sling.

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I’m probably in the same category as you. I seem to approach the wizard mode on lots of games but seldom reach or beat them. I’ve never beaten MM, MB or AFM, but I’ve gotten close. I reach SOS often but never Portal (I’ve been a shot or two away). I’ve beaten a few pins, like The Shadow (once, and with the most ideal confluence of lucky shots and a great game, I hit the final timed shot to beat Kahn with 1 second left). BDK I’ve beaten, and I’ve been a shot or two away from Super Hero on SM. I have a few pins from recent years like GB and EHoH, but I never think about beating them when I
play. I recently qualified High Noon after playing CCr maybe 15-20 times. It does seem reasonably beatable. I’m curious about how complex the new code package will be. I do like the degree of simplicity on this game.

I did add a 12v spot light to the pf above the slingshot from the coin return button. You could do that with the trough, but be very careful, the led you use must be 12-13v, not the 6.3v many LEDs and led strips are. 6.3v bulbs could melt, burn out or do other damage in a 12v socket. My MBr or MMr (can’t remember which) had a melted 6.3v bulb behind the 12v coin return button when I bought it. Fortunately it was just the bulb I replaced with 12v. I just ordered more 12v LEDs from Comet, and they sell lots of splitters and matrix wires. I’m sure there are other methods, like plugging some LED lights into the service outlet? I’m guessing that would work for some led products made to plug into an outlet. For the Comet matrix, I elected to use the 12v from the coin door.

Can’t have a Wild West town without a saloon. No spittin’ at the bartender!

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Thanks! I bought the jug on Etsy a couple years ago. I had two, but I put one on Pappy’s Porch on my BBH when I sold it, so I lost one. I’ve tried to find them again, but no luck. There are similar ones, and this mini Outlaw whiskey bottle, but none quite as nice.

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Together at last, The Fab Four!

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Even better, rest the cabinet on your lap while relaxing in an oversized chair or in bed. Be warned, even without the legs, these pins are quite heavy.

I can see CCr doing very well on location. It’s a broad theme, features attractive cab art and funny callouts. And gunfights! The fan layout is pretty easy to shoot, and you don’t need a manual to understand the goals. Just a town Marshall to keep the peace. Reminds me of Deadwood City…anyone remember that?

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You mean these? I have about 50 or so of them, including my fav by far, The Mystery of Chimney Rock. My little boy will hopefully read these one day. That’s why I have them, um, yeah. Not for me AT ALL.

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Strange how after all these years they still manufacture these without any gap or tolerance at the corners. It doesn’t happen on every game, but I have 2 new games with this, Halloween and CCr. Great suggestion to widen the gap tho, thanks!

Understood, thanks. It’s that area just below the bolts, where the sides come in toward the cab. I assume for either strength or aesthetics, but that’s where the pinching happens. This is on my Halloween, but it’s on my CCr also.

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Accepting an apology is a gift you give yourself and the person what done the apologizing. You are both winners in the end! It brings a tear to the eye.

Bertha Miller is awesome. I buy all my nib pins from her.

Even cowboys get the blues.

Holy tumbleweeds! I finally reached and beat the High Noon wizard mode (fun!), which happened on ball 1. I scored 265m on ball 1, and lost my ball taking a picture of it. Oops. Completed High Noon a second time, and the bonus for that one was 95m. Wow. My previous best was 100m. Can’t wait for the new code package, but this one is really fun and not impossible to finish.

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I prefer the original drop decals. I bought a couple sets of those, and even the original yellow drop targets just in case I wanted to switch. I’ll probably stick with the clear/frosted drops, but I might switch the decals. You can make out their faces much better on the old art. They just won’t allow as much light through them.

That’s correct, they are definitely different. I will probably try the original decals on the new targets at some point. But yes, the original yellow drops are thinner and attach differently. Good for people to know who may have considered the originals.

That’s my SE+ he’s pushing! Dude, wait! I have a pallet mover right here! He can’t hear me.

I love my CV! I have tremendous empathy for all the LE buyers and SE+ buyers waiting and waiting for their pins without much feedback to help ease frustrations. I wanted an LE, but as fast as I was to order one, I was shut out. So I ordered an SE+. While waiting, I noticed mint SEs (which I believe are the same game) with less bling and no topper, were pretty readily available around $8k or so. I decided to grab one with about 50 plays on it for just under $8. I realize that’s not an easy option for everyone, so I consider myself very fortunate to be able to do that. Whenever my SE+ is ready to ship, I’ll hopefully sell my SE for around what I paid or a little less, but with several upgrades I added to the game. For those who can make that strategy work, it can really help with the waiting game, and this game is well worth the wait.

Pinside is simply a sample of the population, one that happens to share a common interest in pinball. Ryan slamming Pinside is puzzling, as Pinside is probably a pretty good representation of the customer base. He may as well just slam pinball buyers in general, and take the position that buyers should shut up and be happy when their game arrives. That’s not a smart way to treat buyers, without whom sales would be very different. All it sounds like people want are updates, which would help both the buyers, and CGC, because it would release ALOT of pressure. Pinside offers a lot of positive things, and no large group of people is going to be free of some goobers, myself included.

Cut Polly in half? It would solve the issue of impeding the train, and teach kids there are consequences for not playing well enough to save poor, sweet Polly. Too gruesome?

Hi, Ivanhoe. Welcome to our group. Will you join us in the Serenity Prayer?

Lord (of the rings), grant me the serenity to accept the arrival date of pins I cannot change, courage to change my preorder if I can, and wisdom to reach the wizard mode. Amen.

Me? Read all the posts? Lol. Nah, I skim the most recent few to get the vibe, toss in some bad jokes, and hopefully bring some levity to threads that are a bit…saggy.

By far most of the people I’ve met or dealt with on Pinside are very positive, nice people. A few boogers here and there, but usually it’s easy to identify those folks. I would agree with the 90% comment. That’s been my experience at least.

I love those compressed air Thompson BB machine guns, and still see them sometimes at local fairs when we take our son. They often seem terribly inaccurate and spray BBs everywhere. I could never shoot the star out cleanly until about 5 years ago, a carny worker was nice and gave me some tips. I shot the star out that day and once since. I have a few CO2 air pistols for target shooting. As a kid growing up in the country I loved my BB gun and .22.

I recall him giving me a certain gun, one that sprayed them less randomly. And I believe he said to barely touch the trigger, to fire as few bbs as possible while making an outline around the star. And stay well outside the star (no part of the red star can remain on the border at the end). It worked, and I’d never really come close before. That bear I won was huge, and very cheaply made.

Toppers!!!

Here come the LEs, guys! I’m eager to see and hear about the topper! I have an SE, which I’m expecting to sell when my SE+ is ready next year. I’m happy for all the LE buyers who have waited well over a year for this. It’s gonna be high noon all over the world soon!