(Topic ID: 310125)

Cactus Canyon Remake Club - New Sheriffs in Town! (with FAQs)

By jfh

2 years ago


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  • 756 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 minutes ago by great-hosts
  • Topic is favorited by 384 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Which version have you ordered and/or received?”

  • Limited Edition [LE] 333 votes
    51%
  • Special Edition with Wild West topper [SE+] 103 votes
    16%
  • Special Edition [SE] 218 votes
    33%

(654 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Cactus Canyon Remake FAQ (Part 1) Game Information Posted by jfh (2 years ago)

Post #836 Demonstration videos of Topper Shootout mode Posted by jfh (2 years ago)

Post #3286 Leg crimp fix Posted by PM_Jeremy (1 year ago)

Post #9030 Trough fix Posted by PM_Jeremy (1 year ago)

Post #9386 John Youssi’s initial idea sketch for the playfield art Posted by jtaudio (1 year ago)

Post #9938 Game play stream of LE with topper (dedicated topper cam) Posted by joelbob (1 year ago)

Post #10737 Sensor Trouble shooting guide Posted by jfh (1 year ago)

Post #11888 Adjusting inlane guides to minimize ball hop Posted by alveolus (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4995 1 year ago

Got my CCr SE last week. My legs don't appear to be rubbing/crimping the cabinet, and the speakers sound fine at 8 or at 20. There was an issue with the flippers that required a new flipper pawl (Ryan at CGC was very helpful), but otherwise it's been playing great.
I notice that hitting the beer mug and sending it flying up doesn't always register a hit. Is that the norm, having to really hit it dead on?
This is not only my first NIB but it's my first game period. Already learned how a flipper works! Really enjoying it so far, but hoping I don't have to learn to solder any time soon. I bought some Ninja balls and was going to wait until the originals were worn, but from other posts, it sounds like I should just put them in now. Is switching on new rubbers as important? Or should I just upgrade to Titans (or similar) when the old ones wear?

1 week later
#5167 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Leaf blade switch behind the metal flap. Clean it, adjust so it's more sensitive.
LTG : )

I pushed the metal, from the bottom, slightly closer together and now it's definitely registering the beer mug in a more consistent fashion. Thank you!

My wife was getting frustrated so I closed the outlane posts a bit, and now she has beaten my high score, so it's time to get serious. A few minor tweaks and I'm really liking how the game is playing. Loving the community right now (when we're actually talking about playing the damn game)!

2 weeks later
#5365 1 year ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

What do other owners have their volume set to? To make it sound like MMr, AFMr volume level I need to be on 21. Is this just the way it is? Or is this a problem?

When I put it on 10, it's pretty loud. I turn it down to like 6 if I'm playing alone

1 month later
#6657 1 year ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

It wasn't too bad. The hardest was working around the back of the mine. I did remove all the screws for the left ramp and moved it around so I could access various areas.
While not a step by step this video I made may help you.

You won't need to cut any of the little zip ties on the ramps, I'm assuming? Is there a reason those are used to fasten a few areas as opposed to something that could remove and reattach easily? Or is the idea that I could easily reattach with a new zip tie?

#6689 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Soooooooo, how about the Cactus Canyon game we're supposed to be chatting about? How's everyone liking their SEs? What's everyones number 1 idea/wish for the extended code when it's released? Personally, id love to see a female bart character introduced since there is already one on the backglass. Let's move along people.

Love my SE. So happy that I switched my order from SE+ to get my hands on the game earlier.
As for the extended code, there isn't currently a big benefit to actually winning the 5 modes you start by going up a ramp 3 times (except for the extra ball with the train). Similar to the instruments in MB, maybe some sort of wizard mode for beating all 5, and adding the ability to restart a mode by going up a ramp another 4-5 times (make it harder than starting it the first time), instead of having to wait for the Stampede to reset all the ramp counters.
I still haven't gotten to High Noon but have lit 4 of 5 a few times, so I still don't know what I'm missing there!

#6860 1 year ago
Quoted from falky:

Just picked up NIB. The beer mug switch does not register. Looks to be all plugged in. Any recommendations before reaching out CGC?

Mine registered intermittently and I went in from the bottom and slightly adjusted the leaf switch, pushing the two pieces a little closer together. If it isn't registering in the switch test, then you need to get advice from someone who actually knows things lol

#6901 1 year ago
Quoted from Mistwalker:

Super disappointing that I submitted a ticket over 24 hours ago with CGC and have heard nothing.
First time getting a NIB game with these kind of issues. A response would be very welcomed.

After sweating it for 48 hours I just called the main number and got my issue sorted out pretty quickly.

1 week later
#7183 1 year ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Is the the callout on the extra ball "Boy, I'm thirsty" or "Glory, I’m thirsty"?

I hear "Boy, I'm thirsty", but I like watching TV with subtitles

#7409 1 year ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Actually tried the same on my new LE. Better in person than what came out on video. That said, it's a quick 15-20 second game (depending on how good you are).....getting a little better with each try. I believe 12 was my highest!
On a side note, I'm a tall and the train tracks obstruct a clear view to the beer mug (and bad guy #1) - I sometimes forget about it.

I added the train tracks mod to my SE, and it definitely obstructs the view to bad guy #1. That has stopped me from doing further mods (mine cart / train stations) as I do like having a nice view of the playfield. I do think it's worth the trade off for the train tracks because they really do look nice and complete the look of the train mech.

1 week later
#7667 1 year ago
Quoted from pch3727:

I have mine at +2. Really changed the game once I adjusted the strength. Made the left and right ramp shots much easier.

Are there any downsides to turning up the flipper strength?

1 week later
#8044 1 year ago

Any recommendations for replacing the foam padding under the lockdown bar? Mine wore out really quickly. Also the little plastic spacers on the two ends of the bar keep working their way out, sliding forward out from under the bar - should I just gorilla glue those back in place?

#8046 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

How did it wear out? How often do you have your LDB on and off? I don't ever remembering a beer seal wearing out, even on routed games. May have not been affixed properly at CGC? Most people just go buy some weather-stripping from the hardware store but you can also pick up a piece from Pinball life for around a buck and a half.

It's not the beer seal (thanks for teaching me the term) it's the smaller pieces that I guess rest against the inner cabinet. They flattened almost immediately then ripped. Sounds like I can cut a piece of a longer seal or just buy some generic foam. Thanks!

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2 weeks later
#8450 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

My drop target is pretty much the same but I hadn't noticed it affecting balls (probably was though). What I was having issues with is this same target (second from left) doesn't trigger with direct impact all the time. When I hit it twice, dead on with full impact, on a gunfight and it didn't fall I decided to have a look. What I discovered was the spring on this target feels like there is some resistance when loading and unloading. The other 3 bad guy drop targets do not feel like this, they are quite snappy.
After fiddling with it for a few minutes and deciding to try adjusting target heights, I discovered an LED board on the floor of the machine. I found the spot it came from and replaced it, checking the screws on the other 3 of the same type. All the screws were loose. I'm guessing there was supposed to be blue locktite on these screws? Any reason I shouldn't add some?
And is there anything I could try to do with the left-of-center drop target?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have this same issue from time to time with that target, so I'd also be curious as to what the fix is. I haven't gotten around to fiddling with that yet. For me it's the direct hits that seem to not phase it, whereas a glancing blow will trigger the hit.

#8452 1 year ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Where is the switch that triggers the bank robbery lane (pink inserts on the right)? I’m getting a robbery etc when the ball isn’t anywhere near there. Thought I’d take a look, but I can’t find a switch.

There are two sensors under the lane near the top, where each safe is in the art. It looks like both wires lead down the hole on the upper left side of the ramp. I had a similar issue with the waterfall ramp and followed the wires to the board and pushed everything in and I haven't had a problem since. Someone way back had commented something similar, including there being some hot glue in that area (possible signs of a quick fix before shipment?) and mine had that same hot glue. I think they are getting shaken loose. Lloyd might have a better answer; I just had this happen this weekend and my "fix" is holding out so far.

1 week later
#8651 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

I got my order in from Marco and switched this spring out on the left-of-center drop target. I could really feel the difference in the spring, but it unfortunately did not solve the issue for me. Four direct hits that didn't trigger that drop target.
I also took the drop target assembly apart, inspected it, and shaved off a small burr attached to the catch part of the target and reassembled. No change.
I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks!

Hey, I have the similar problem to yours, though I haven't tinkered at all with it yet. I notice that it's intermittent, and I actually recently had it happen on the far left target. I'm wondering if the targets don't slightly bend from hard hits, and then a hit from behind straightens them out? Though it doesn't happen with all of them so maybe not.

#8799 1 year ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:

The drops targets will ‘settle in’. Ive bricked a few of those on my SE, but keep playing it and I bet it will loosen up a bit..sounds silly but that’s the case on mine. Those mechs are literally brand new and need more actuation to loosen a tad. This is only my opinion. No more bricked targets on mine.

My drop targets haven't had this issue recently, so maybe you're right. If it starts being a problem again, I'll try the spring.

#8853 1 year ago

My game is loud enough at 8, and if I put it up to like 13 it starts to become uncomfortably loud. So I don't buy that explanation.

#9031 1 year ago
Quoted from explosiveegg:

I think the main thing that puts CC code on a lower level than the other games CGC has done, is that the modes don't really stack.

The main stacking you can do in CCR is with the Gold Mine multiball. You can start that during any of the main modes (except during other multi-balls) and it can give you a huge advantage for building up points during Bionic Bart. Otherwise, I don't think the current rule set would gain anything from stacking modes, each has a clear objective and it would just get muddied up. Like in MB, when you start a mode you can still hit any other shot and I think that takes away a little. Super excited to see what's in the expanded code.

1 week later
#9419 1 year ago

To lighten the mood a little - Yesterday I cleaned my playfield and put new balls in my machine without wiping the oil off and ohhh baby did she play smooth! The lasso was going through 2 full rotations on the first few games, and the orbit shots were FLYING. I did have to reclean the machine today bc it left a lot of black residue. Hopefully this won't bite me in the ass.

Also to any other noobs out there, if you want to do a custom logo or attract, you have to put the SD card in while the game is on. The manual does not mention this and I had a brief heart attack when the game wouldn't boot. The AFMr manual has more detail than the CCr SE manual.

#9479 1 year ago
Quoted from Chubbie:

This game is effin rad. Love playing it. Curious to know if anyone has gameplay strategies to maximize points. Not generic stuff like complete the modes, take out Bionic Bart, etc... I have a WhiteWater and I love trying to hit 5x playfield then start whitewater multiball for 5x jackpot shots. Looking for that sort of thing. And no, I haven't checked FAQs yet. Want to open a fun sidebar on this thread

Start Bionic Bart and then kick off a gold mine multiball or showdown multiball bc making the ramp shots will just keep giving you millions for BB and also increase the jackpot for hitting Bart.

#9679 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

I believe I have tracked down the culprit of the drop target (left of center) that wasn't cooperating. I've attached a very close up image of the drop target assembly. Notice how the black (circled) plastic piece is sort of cupped? It was catching the edge of the tab on the drop target harder than it should. Filing it down with an emery board was just enough that it let go at a comparable moment as the other 3 targets. I was able to identify this by using a long Q tip which allowed for a larger range of gradation in pressure than touching with my finger.
Testing with gameplay afterwards yeilding success again and again, until one shot didn't register but it was more of a glancing blow from the far right side (opposite of the spring) so I hope that was a rare occurrence. More testing will commence.
I hope that this information is helpful to others that have the same issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks! Mine started happening again, and I know it's not that the spring needs to be broken in, as my game as over a thousand plays. I'm going to finally check out the mechanism and see if mine is similar.

#9734 1 year ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Is there a trick to completing Bart Bros faster? Will hits count during a multiball? I've only completed Bart Bros once. It's the hardest of the five modes on the sheriff badge for me to complete. Bionic Bart is awesome.

You can't hit Bart during the multiball (except during Bionic Bart) and you have to complete a shootout between the bros. However, during any of the 5 ramp modes you can continue hitting Bart with no shootout required, so that's the best time to get some shots off.

#9755 1 year ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Got it. So if I'm doing one of the 5 modes, best to take shots at Bart?

If you've got the time to spare then you can quickly fire off some shots at him, yeah. Though you can actually get more points by shooting the lit ramps during the 5 modes. I just hate having gunfight lit and hitting Bart and having nothing happen, and that isn't an issue during those modes. I'm also not that great. If you're better than I am, just go for the points.

#9792 1 year ago
Quoted from moonraker:

How do you close out-lanes?

If you look at the outlanes, you'll see one of the posts is in a slot. Under the playfield, you can loosen the nut that holds that post tight and slide it forward as much as you like. (Then retighten.)

#9805 1 year ago
Quoted from Mundy53:

So I did look around a lot before asking, I promise. Other than DMD animations and Bionic bart, what does the extended code give you?
Additionally does the Stranger, Partner, Deputy, Sheriff, and Marshall inserts do anything?

The higher your rank the more points you get from quick draws, and having a higher rank going into High Noon helps too, but I'm not exactly sure what the difference is (maybe you start with more time?). It sounds like they're planning to do more with it in the code update.

2 weeks later
#10099 1 year ago
Quoted from fstfish66:

just ordered an SE last week,,,,been told not building that model for another 60 days,hoping to have it by middle of may

Cointaker's website says they have them in stock and ready to ship. I bought my SE from them. Not too far from Levittown, only about a 3 hour drive if you wanted to bypass getting it shipped by FedEx.

1 week later
#10351 1 year ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

I just finally pulled out my flaky drop-target mech to replace the factory spring with a flipper return spring (fixed it btw, thanks LTG!) - and I was just really impressed with that mechanism. There was a video a while back on the re-design process that went into it - such a cool innovation. Still loving this game almost a year in at this point!

Ugh that did not work for me. I ended up submitting a ticket. Can't figure out what is going on. Will update when I hear back.

1 week later
#10573 1 year ago
Quoted from fstfish66:

ordered as SE 3 plus weeks ago arrived 3 months earlier then i was told it would,,,,number 2250 so far so good,,,where can i purchase the train track mod ? thanks in advance

I got mine from mezel mods, but the FAQ has a couple other options as well.

3 weeks later
#11235 1 year ago

The video mode is still kinda fun without the topper. You can't see where you're aiming, but you can get a feel for it; the position is relative to the last guy you shot. I routinely get 10+ bad guys, but haven't got up on the board for it.

Does anyone know how to set the high score on the video mode? It looks like the default metric is a time, not a score or number of bad guys.

#11237 1 year ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

How does one get into the video mode without the topper? asking for a friend...

Set Adjustment G.21 is to Yes. Then hit the beer mug the required number of times (by default it's 15, but you can raise or lower that), at which point Bart starts glowing green, and you hit it into his trough to start it.

1 month later
#11957 11 months ago

I've tried stretching the original spring and replacing with the flipper return spring and neither one helped the problem of direct shots not knocking the bad guy down. It mostly happens with the left center one, but I've had it happen with all 4. I submitted a ticket in February and haven't heard anything.

#11959 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is the mech too close to the rear edge of the slot?
Does the target drop with a finger?
Loosen it and try to ease it forward a tiny bit.

The target drops with a finger or anytime I roll a ball at it. It's just powerful direct shots that fail. I can try shifting it forward a tiny bit and see if that helps. Thanks!

#11974 11 months ago

Interesting that some are fixing the problem with more tension (Ghostbusters springs linked a few posts above) and some with less tension (shorter, weaker flipper return springs or longer, lower tension springs from home depot).

2 weeks later
#12389 11 months ago

Have people been waxing their playfields? My impression was that the factory coating kind of precluded the need for waxing. I've just been doing basic cleaning on the playfield and ramps with novus 1 and a microfiber cloth. I'm at over 2,000 plays. I've changed the balls out a couple of times. Anything else I should be doing?

Also, to update, I got those higher tension Ghostbusters springs and while the LC drop target doesn't drop on 100% of bricks, I have noticed an improvement.

#12395 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Applying Wax over this paint (as recommended by auto manufacturers) will increase the life "dramatically" of the shine and appearance.

Thanks for the info. Is there a particular product you recommend? And about how often do you remove and re-wax?

1 month later
#13045 9 months ago

The physical knocker people were recommending (and linked in the FAQ) is out of stock at the moment. Does anyone know if this one works? https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-knocker-assembly-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-pinball-machines.html
It looks like it contains all of the components so no additional assembly would be required.

1 month later
#13502 8 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Gentlemen, Ive had a " small " but annoying issue since I got the game home for a while now but its at a point now where its MORE than just annoying. The left side lip of the metal piece by the trough catches the ball quite often if it isn't going fast enough. Then I have to shake the game to get it to go in. Not really sure what to do here and hoping its not brain surgery to remove anything. Bad pictures I'm sorry but its just the end of that front piece that sticks up JUST enough to catch a slow ball. Any help is always appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

This used to happen on mine. I fixed it by bending that piece of metal so that the front edges are flush with the playfield (I think it's the right side lip in your pic that is causing the problem). You need to take the apron off to get to it. To do that, there's just a few screws to remove, you can watch the apron removal here if you're a relative noob like me:


It took me a few tries until it was right, but I haven't had it happen since.

#13505 8 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Thanks guys, What did you use to bend the corner piece down? I don't want to mess up the playfield underneath it. Its the left side end piece that's up , so when the ball is coming down the left outlane it will get stuck if its a slow ball.

I think I just used needle nose pliers to bend it - the metal piece lifts right off the playfield

1 month later
#13961 7 months ago

I changed my battery last month after 1 year and noticed that since then the game isn't keeping the time in between sessions. I remember this coming up in the past and I can only find reference to someone replacing the board in the backbox. Has anyone else experienced this?

#13963 7 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Why would you replace it in the first place? Those 2032 batteries last about 10 years. Same as in any PC/computer motherboard you own. How often do you replace it on those?
You likely did not install it correctly or have gunk preventing good contact. Remove the battery and wipe it down as well as the battery holder. Make sure it's oriented correctly when you put it back in.
Don't take this the wrong way but this is a prime example of unnecessary maintenance that ends up breaking a perfectly working game.

Thanks. Honestly, I only did it bc I got an automated message from Pinside about how "it's been a year and time to change the batteries!" Was just trying to be a diligent owner. How would you know when to replace otherwise? Other appliances I use 2032's for don't even last a year and I use the pin more than I use my food scale.

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