Maricopa, AZ
I guess that shows how much overpriced the Stern boards are... Is that their attempt to get into the car dealership game and pad pockets with exorbitant parts pricing?
(Topic ID: 310125)
Linked Games
Cactus Canyon (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021-
Cactus Canyon (Remake - Special Edition Plus)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021
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Cactus Canyon (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021
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2 weeks later
If anyone has it or can get it, I'm looking for the manufacturer and exact color code for the LE PC. I know it's listed as "Gun Metal Gray" in the FAQ but I'm looking for more exact then that so the additional work I have done will be sure to match.
TIA
Quoted from MrMikeman:Trying to pass off an SE for an LE???
Nope, I secured an LE very early on. I do however hate black coin doors when the rest is PC'd... and the shooter housing looks chrome. My OCD can't handle that.
2 weeks later
My wife is the "catcher" for my pin downstairs moves as well. Not as vital of a position as the "pusher" when trying to go back upstairs but still very helpful. We also have 3 landings with direction changes which makes a second spotter very helpful in preventing wall damage.
Quoted from Only_Pinball:The scale looks silly when it's that close to Bart.
Agreed, that's way too much imo.
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:While it might be a stupid question -- If I plan on purchasing a replacement set of siderails, lockdown bar and legs for purposes of custom powdercoating, will I also need to buy the plastic/rubber playfield glass channels that sit directly within the siderail? I don't believe those come with the siderails but wasn't sure and I'm unsure whether the originals can be reused or not. Also, if I'm planning this avenue should I buy "raw" unfinished siderails or purchase the ones that already have a stainless finish. Many thanks for the information.
No, those attach to the cabinet. The only thing I ever buy are lollipop rails because I use my hardware installed on the game to PC not buy all new. Raw is fine if you intend to PC.
Quoted from jfh:Just remember it says “Tombstone” / “Arizona Territory” and not “Cactus Cnyon”
Right, I want a Cactus Canyon version...
1 month later
Quoted from PinDeadHead:This looks fantastic. What color is this and what does powder coating a pin cost?
Depending on the pieces you chose to have done and type of coating you chose to go with it should cost you anywhere from about $200 to $350 locally or plus shipping.
Quoted from transprtr4u:Is this just a poor weldment? Rust? ... for a new game should be bright and shiny clean ?
[quoted image]
It's steel, it discolors when you heat it to the point of melting... I realize there's nothing better to do until we all get our pins but some of this picking of nits seems a tad silly.
Quoted from RTS:I think it's a completely relevant nit.
Yes metal will discolor when heated, but this is not on my other machines, including AFM. It seems substandard, similar to the oxidized metal posts.
Is it normal for a brand new game? Should we just celebrate it?
Never said it was irrelevant, just tiresome. Buy it if you want to.. or don't.. I guess over the years I've just grown indifferent to all the silly little things in life that don't really matter in the grand scheme of things.
3 weeks later
I put pincabs on all my games over the metal leg protectors and I've never once had any issues. Yes they can be a problem when placed directly on the wood on the W/B era pins but it takes a very specific set of rare circumstances to damage when placed over the metal protectors. Before we had the metal leg protectors, I would use pincabs over felt to ensure they could move independently from eachother and never had any issues. The key was to use a very dense felt type fabric, not the stuff from the craft store. My trick was cutting up hd felt moving pads.
Nowadays, you can very easily see if the pincabs are touching the art or not as you apply them and tighten the leg bolts.
Quoted from chillme:CPR back glass showed up today, looks great. Wife saw it and said she was confused, why would I buy a CC back glass? Guess the cat is out of the bag.
That's why mine is hidden 
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Thanks for the tip!
As for the Harbor Freight cart, do you have the 500lbs or 1000lbs capacity lift and did you have to do any modification to the upright handle to enable useful functionality for lifting / moving your machines? (You can just PM me if you'd rather not clutter the thread with this since it is a bit off topic). Thanks!
There a whole thread dedicated to the HF lift table modifications if I remember correctly. I remember posting my photos in it way back when.
1 week later
2 months later
Agreed, this is not a big deal with the chrome legs. A: because I have plenty of extras laying around and B: because it's an easy fix to press them open in my bench vise. I'm more concerned about the PC'd legs on my LE needing the same remedy and potentially cracking the finish when I do it.
2 weeks later
I have PC'd all of my coin doors and while you need to have a PC that knows what they are doing it can be done well. My PC specifically articulates the door hinge through the different stages of PCing to prevent it from building up or sealing in a way that chips off when you go to articulate it. Plus my OCD would definitely not allow for them to be mismatched lol.
1 week later
CCR LE Update:
Great news, your game is going to be ready in about 1-2 weeks. WE NEED your mobile phone number to complete your paperwork.
We will be sending your invoice by this Tuesday (AFTER you reply back with your cell number and we finish shipping quotes).
Please note:
your final balance with shipping, can only be paid via check, wire transfer or direct deposit and that will be explained in the email, when we send your invoice on Tuesday.
So exciting! Thank you for waiting all this time,
Sara
3 weeks later
Still looking for the exact brand and color of the PC so I can get the door done if anyone has that by chance.
1 week later
Quoted from Sluggo39:I was on the fence and passed on an LE no regrets after seeing what you’re all going through, that said I’m thinking about pulling the trigger on an SE.
I personally haven't "gone through" anything. I placed my deposit, because I want the game. I paid for the rest of the sale price when asked for it, because I want the game. Now I am patiently waiting for my game to ship while going on with the rest of my life, you guessed it, because I want the game. I have quite a few cares in the world, pinball ship times just isn't one of them.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:They looked pretty dang good. I tried slicing a few in half to put on backboard, but can't get a clean cut
Use a bench disk sander and it'll be clean as a whistle 
Quoted from Hayfarmer:I tried, melted the crap out of them. We're not talking high quality cactus I was working with
Lol I'm going to buy a set to play with. Sometimes you just need to go slow and let it cool between waves of sanding. Hopefully it wasn't too hard to scrape the green plastic off the disk.
1 week later
LoL I honestly just have to figure out now how to explain to the wife how I just got a JP premium, Alien LE delivered a few months ago, just 2 weeks ago did a 12 hour road trip to buy back the Williams IJ that was one of my first full restorations, and now next week I have another pin showing up that she doesn't even know I pre-ordered. Actually I never even told her it was announced. My only saving grace will be that she really liked playing it at the PHOF.
Wish me luck!
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Did you order from pps?
Yes
In even better news... I'm off all next week. The stars couldn't have aligned better. Now to cross fingers and toes there are no shipping delays. 
Quoted from alveolus:Did you get invoiced for final payment?
Yes, that was back in October when they were first supposed to be close to shipping. In the end not too much of a wait since I paid. I'm hopeful that everyone else is coming right behind us lucky early ones.
1 week later
Got LE#41 set up yesterday. It looks absolutely beautiful. I waited far too long to buy the side art protectors from Terry but luckily I have them now. I wouldn't lift the PF once without them with that glossy acrylic on the side art.
Just set everything up and added a sheet of PDI and away we went! No issues at all and the legs have plenty of clearance. My 2 cent's, my guess is the most recent delay was waiting on thicker leg plates if they are indeed thicker than the SE plates.
Btw, the wife and daughter still haven't been downstairs and notice it yet so we'll see how that goes. My gut tells me they won't even know it's there until our guests bring it up today lol.
20221123_161313 (resized).jpgQuoted from 1956PINHEAD:Deleted post
November 30th?
Quoted from Jman44:Is there a shooter lane protector that fits this game yet?
Yes, just reach out to Cliffy. You can get the bad guy target protectors and the eject protector. That's all that CGC doesn't provide with theirs that Cliff offers. The two scoops and drain are already installed from CGC.
Quoted from chillme:Took a look at the knocker in my TZ to compare to the CGC knocker bracket and found that they are basically the same. Looks like CGC just made a copy of the Williams bracket. Makes sense. Measured the holes and they are the same.
Aside from what is updated (boards, display, lighting, etc.), all CGC remakes utilize the original Williams designed parts. They are licensing to reproduce the original Williams game just with some updated modernization.
1 week later
Quoted from LingBot:Any recommendations for replacing the foam padding under the lockdown bar? Mine wore out really quickly. Also the little plastic spacers on the two ends of the bar keep working their way out, sliding forward out from under the bar - should I just gorilla glue those back in place?
How did it wear out? How often do you have your LDB on and off? I don't ever remembering a beer seal wearing out, even on routed games. May have not been affixed properly at CGC? Most people just go buy some weather-stripping from the hardware store but you can also pick up a piece from Pinball life for around a buck and a half.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Sheesh you guys are sensitive. I don’t even know Doug. Just made a pop culture reference to the Hangover crew looking for their best friend Doug. Don’t take yourselves so seriously. Maybe you meant to downvote the OP I quoted. IDK. Have a nice day.
adawsd (resized).pngI'll check back in about 1000 posts when hopefully this thread is back on track or the bickering has at least moved to a "Pinball Manufacture Delays and How it Makes us Feel" thread...
Quoted from sizzler747:Does anyone know exactly what color the powdercoating is specifically?
I PC all my doors and had planned on doing that with mine... until I saw the color in person. I have extreme hesitation that someone could match the color variation 100%. I asked Sara at PPS if she could get the exact color for me from the CGC team but didn't hear back yet on it and spaced bumping her on it like she asked me to. I need to go do that...
3 weeks later
Quoted from fixintoplay:That's what I thought, and that was my question. And that was the answer I was looking for. Thanks.
As many have commented, you can absolutely have multiple different live inputs into a powered sub running simultaneously. The more active simultaneous lines you add, the worse it'll sound. I don't buy into all those various fancy boards as I've never had an issue with running a feed straight from the cabinet subwoofer. For my use, the most I've had is 2 leveraging 1 sub for two pins and hooking them up to the left and right terminals.
Speakers are not that complicated of technology. Give it a source (or more than 1) and it'll vibrate to reproduce the sound.
Quoted from pch3727:Has anyone ever lost their key to the coin door? I thought I had lost the keys to my CC this week, but ended up finding them. It got me thinking, what happens if they are lost. Can CGC send replacements or do you just have to get a new lock?
You'll hear recommendations for the keyless entry option. I'm not a fan as unless your lock cylinder is super tight or you never bump your coin door, it'll irritate you (and leave your games open to anyone you have over to fiddle with). If you bump your coin door, the catch on the cylinder drops from gravity and your door swings open. Usually mid game and usually during a great game.
My solution for overall ease and my own sanity (not even to protect against loosing keys), is to buy 20 (or whatever the max number of pins you'll ever possibly own at one time is) keyed alike double bitted lock cylinders. When I get a new pin, I swap in my cylinder and stash the one it came with in the coin box. When I go to sell it, I put the original back in and move my keyed alike one back into my stash for the next pin.
I bought all mine way back in the day from Terry from PBL. I just had to specify that I wanted all the same cylinder. The best part is that while I have 20 sets of keys (because each lock comes with 2), I only need 1 key that I have in a set location in my game room. If I loose that one, I have 39 more backup keys.
Quoted from explosiveegg:You must've had some pretty poor keyless locks. As I've never had any open from gravity. You can also just bend the metal piece between two vice grip pliers so that you don't have any door wiggles. Also, you might have some rubbish guests if people just start rummaging through your games.
Kids will be kids. Shiny objects, levers, buttons, etc. attract kids better than pins do unfortunately.
1 week later
Is it just me or does this feel like the biggest train wreck owners thread out there? At least of the ones I subscribe to it is. There's so much unproductive back and forth that it's hard to wade through it all to get to any real information worth reading.
Quoted from SimplePin:So I started racking up excessive beer mug shots. Went into switch test and smacked the playfield. Beer switch registers like crazy. The switch is showing as closed. Does anyone know the proper gapping of the switch? Thought I'd ask for before I went and started making adjustments.
Thanks!
The proper gapping for any leaf switch is; close enough for a proper hit to register the switch but not too close that impacts/vibrations elsewhere on the pf will. May seem less formal than you had envisioned but that is genuinely as scientific as you need to be here.
1 week later
Quoted from moonraker:How do you close out-lanes?
Move the post all the way down. When people say "closed" they don't literally mean closed.
Quoted from evh347:Here's a followup regarding the mirrored backglass and plastic trim...
If you're planning on adding the mirrored backglass to your CC, all you really need is to add the System 11 side trim (left and right options) to the sides of the mirrored backglass. You do NOT need the top and bottom System 11 trim, as it won't fit both the backglass and the plastic LED housing together (it's too narrow). Now, maybe requiring the trim to be wide enough for both isn't required anyways, but I can't remember. I just wanted something to protect the edges of the glass, and I can tell you that the the System 11 trim is only wide enough to cover the edges of the glass, and not both the glass and the plastic LED housing. The original side trim will cover the glass and the plastic LED housing, but the result is that it resists sliding into its channel on the backbox to a point where its very tight and not easily removable.
I reinstalled the CGC stock top & bottom trim which affixes the mirrored backglass to the plastic housing fine. I applied the System 11 side trim to the left and right sides of the mirrored backglass to protect the edges. The entire unit then slid into place w/ little to no resistance.
[quoted image]
I concur. I bought the set based on recommendations here but the bottom wouldn't fit all the way down in the channel. I just used the original which was admittedly a tight fit.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Medic:For those that ordered from PPS. Does the delivery people arrange a date to deliver the game or it just shows up? I’m hoping I can be home to inspect it
All LTL deliveries should schedule an appointment for delivery.
Quoted from SimplePin:Concur on both counts. Now who started that run on System 11 trim? LOL
Lol Must have been someone on the supplier side... I know I have no use for the ones I bought.
Still waiting for someone to do a nice metal badge shooter rod that has cactus canyon instead of other stuff like in the links above. Anything out there like that?
Quoted from Golgotha:$600 from Chicago to Evansville, IN 350 miles
$550 from Chicago to San Ramon CA, 1,833 miles
They have a word for that robbery! You would think shipping is determined more by distance.
Not necessarily. If it isn't a major route for carriers, then it can cost quite a bit more. Our full trailer shipments went up in pricing by as much as 800% over the past few years. I actually was just in Evansville last week, I definitely wouldn't call that a major hub.
1 week later
Quoted from davej:I put this passive ball stop in all my newer games to keep the ball from falling out.[quoted image]
Where is that from? Someplace special or the usual pinball supply places?
Quoted from P1nhead:Pinball life sells them
I looked by keyword and part number 04-12740.1 but nothing came up. I found them on Marco but not PBL. Curious how their price compares since I need to place a PBL order anyway.
Having replaced several newer stern decals both head and cabinet, the removal was cake. I wouldn't be concerned at all about removing the old one. The part that takes more expertise is aligning it to get it 100% straight. It's still not super complicated as there are various methods you can use and it just being the head makes that much more simple. I wouldn't hesitate to do it if you can get the decal from PPS or whomever your distro was.
1 week later
Quoted from CUJO:The apron LED strobe lighting can make it hard to focus on the Gold Mine Multiball and some other modes, esp in a dim or dark room.
Is there a way to make them stay lit instead of flashing?
During Multiball, I stay focused on the balls right at the flippers and try not to look up at the playfield until the strobing ends.
Still love the game, Maybe some more lighting can be added, like PinStadiums, to help the balance?
Get the dimming sheets that were discussed previously in the thread and you can mute the flasher brightness if you want to. $3.49 is a much cheaper solution than $400 for add on light bars.
LIGHTDIMS Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers/Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Retail Packaging. https://a.co/d/gPrD74g
1 month later
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Has anyone figured out where to buy cactus’ that are somewhat transparent to replace the two in the back left? I’d like to replace the stock cactus and illuminate them. Thx.
FYI There are cactus string lights from amazon posted in this thread. You should be able to find it in a search relatively quickly.
Quoted from Gnassel:I had reserved a CCRSE+
Unfortunately, until today no statement could be called to a delivery date.
In the meantime, I had the opportunity to play a CC and I was a bit disappointed.
At the same time I had the chance to play a #1 Pinball from another company and I have to say: For the same money you get much more Pinball elsewhere.
Meanwhile I have the other machine here in my gameroom and I am extremely satisfied. My deposit for the CC I will now get back.
Sorry
This is what happens when companies take too long to deliver to their customers.
Over and out
Not every game is for everyone. Glad you found something else that you liked. Happy flipping!
4 months later
Quoted from whiteyjfm:Not sure how to post pictures
Screenshot_20230928_075745_Chrome (resized).jpg
1 month later
If any pin deserved a gun shooter, it's this one. I wish there was an easy way to swap out the normal plunger for a gun mech.
Quoted from undrdog:And give up the skill shot?
Absolutely, it spins however it spins.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:I think it's possible you dont understand the intent of this feature. Maybe your thinking its just a random shot into the lasso when you plunge, which is not the case.
The intent of this skill shot is to allow you to shoot for a designated item that best fits your strategy to advance the game. You have the ability to land on items that will spot the bronco, waterfall, train, sharp shooter, or bank lanes that will quicken you path to stampede, or you can also land on light extra ball which is most helpful the few times it shows up, or you can land on something that really has little value. You have control of this if you shoot wisely.
Your objective is to again, land the shot that helps you advance your game which is identical to any other true skill shot in pinball. So try to avoid just randomly launching the ball that will typically make six cycles around the lasso ramp, but instead modulate your shot as needed to help you reach the final objective of OK corrale.
There are many times where I need the first item available on the DMD, and in order to get it I need to do a very light plunge do the ball falls into the lasso ramp without tripping the switch. It's not hard to learn, but it's a skill shot that requires skill.
Similarly, if I need the second item on the DMD, it simply requires a slightly stronger plunge so that the ball trips the switch only once.
Had we had a ball launcher like from AFM or MM, the skill shot would cease to be and the shot would be random, and it would always land on the sixth item on the DMD. Kind of pointless right?
No, I understand, I just don't care enough about it (I do respect the time it took you to type the explanation out). I'd rather have the cool gun handle 
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