I just joined the sheriff's posse with an NIB SE -- to be delivered next week. For me, it was better than buying a 24-year-old original, if you can find one. I was hoping to see more happy SE owners in this thread. This is a great remake that is available now, albeit in limited quantities. I'm also hoping CGC can deliver on its warranty if I ever need it.

Thanks for extending a helpful hand. I have enjoyed the hobby as much as the challenges it brings. I'll be visiting this club regularly.

Ditto.

I have just been deputized. What a gorgeous machine, but...

IMG_4179 (resized).jpg

I already found an UH-OH.

IMG_4180 (resized).jpg

IMG_4181 (resized).jpg

I have an idea on how to correct it, like remove the plunger mounting plate and smooth it out. But I'd like advice from someone who's done this before! Hint hint.

Thanks. Does the decal material lay down flat and adhere/stay? Or does it need help with more adhesive? And is it likely to bubble up again when plunger is remounted as it did at factory install? I don't want to make the problem worse!

Thanks! I'll try a thin layer of rubber cement on each surface (not so permanent). I filled out a ticket: curious what CGC does in response to a minor issue like this one? This most likely happened before.

Great advice. I'll try these techniques. And you are correct: I've not yet worked on cabinet decal applications. Thanks!

I have just unboxed my CCr SE and got it fired up. I am absolutely amazed at the quality of the build and the play! The decal issue should be an easy fix for me, but I will continue to post as it progresses. Thank you!

I will be installing art blades, but I don't see any instructions or a video on how to remove the CCr playfield. There's no helpful handle mounted at the back end of the PF like recent Stern pins. And that CCr hinge mechanism looks really tricky. Disconnection of the cables does not look very easy, either. Has anyone done this? Thanks.

Yeah, that's because you have a wife who's creative and handy like that. I have a wife, too, but if I talked her into helping me, we'd end up in divorce court. I tried applying blades to my DEJP by myself with the playfield up. It was a disaster.

Carolina Pinballs is awesome. Best I've worked with. I'd say for your first pin buy, you're either very lucky you chose them or very smart. It helps to be both. Man, how tall are those ceilings? You can get 13 - 14 toppers on every game.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-in-T15-Security-Torx-Shank-Screwdriver-Bit/50247215?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-50247215-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1f7a_Y_--QIVA5JbCh0HfgDSEAQYASABEgKSovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes, please post pics, if possible. This sounds like a good suggestion.

"Anyone who wants to sell a game now, no matter how lightly used, needs to sell under MSRP as long as NIB games with a full warranty are available from distributors."

Thanks Pinside+ Addict. Sheez, I can't believe somebody had to explain the obvious to him.

Here's some pics to give you an idea of the look. I'm super happy with it. I did create a kit on Titans website if anyone is interested. Sorry for the photo dump.

Thanks for putting the Titan kit together on their site. Saves others like me a lot of time! Pics are great, too.

@mpdpvdpin: Sorry, my comment was out of order. Actually, I'm glad you brought the question up. Looks like others have had the same thoughts. And I'm equally glad Pinside+Addict answered it the way he did.

CGC has made it clear that my new CCrSE cannot accommodate their upcoming interactive topper. So, I'm asking a designer to build me a non-interactive one. The question came up about about lighting it. Yeah, I could run a separate power line for it to an outlet, but I really want it to operate with the CCr on/off switch. I've done this before with a new Stern pin via an open USB port in the backbox: It could not have been easier. However, I looked into this backbox and found no such port. I could not determine: where I could tap in; what voltage I could use/spec; and if I had to go into the cab for a power source, where would be a good place to connect. Also wondering if this might void CGC warranty. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.

I'm thinking that the definition of "...very definitely implied" means it's explicit.

I really like the idea of adding the knocker mod to my CCReS. Is it a simple matter of plug and play where you just install the knocker assembly with plate and hook up the cable harness? Are there program changes needed to get it to work? Does it only work when free game credits are awarded? On free play? (Yeah, I know... dumb questions.)

Great. Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

Aaaagh... can't believe I forgot that was in there.

Welcome to the "I forgot to read the FAQ" gang. We're on parole... three strikes = out.

Holy chit. I meant that as a humble, self-effacing compliment to the importance of the FAQ. Not a smart ass comment; I know first-hand how much work it takes to research, create and maintain such a comprehensive tool. Whew. Sensitive group.

Nearing 8,000 posts in this thread in the 9 months it's been alive. Over 80% of those came in just the last 4 months since I got my SE. The anxiety is increasing exponentially. I visit here looking for tech advice and helpful hints. I feel lucky to find a few. Is there a filter for this in the FAQ? (No, I checked.) The thread's title is somewhat misleading. It is, or has become, predominantly an "SE+/LE waiting list group therapy club" - clearly a need for several thousand frustrated would-be owners. But not so much for happy CCR SE owners sharing tech advice, gameplay hints, mods and other fun stuff. Maybe start a "CCR SE Owners Club?" Or would that eventually morph into another group therapy thread? (Answer also not in the FAQ -- I checked twice.)

Your FAQ is one of the most comprehensive I've seen for one title, although I only have 3 late games I really care about. I did read it (and all the posts) before I bought the pin, which influenced my choice for the SE. That alone answers the majority of questions I come here for. We are fortunate to have that resource. I think you may be at the point where, if you keep adding, it may get too cumbersome. Attention spans are declining. The many referrals in posts to read it may seem redundant, but they are necessary, even for long-time pinsiders like me. Not everyone realizes how rich and detailed the information is in there. They need to be reminded. Repetition is key to learning and remembering stuff. Shaming for not reading it before asking a question -- negative reinforcement -- can be even more effective!

@jfh: I had a question not answered in the FAQ but was given in a post: what actions or circumstances fire the knocker?

"The knocker works for extra ball, match, and high score awards credits." (per pinsider "chillme"). Consider adding this to that section?

Also, disabling the knocker sound: curious as to why. Both can't work simultaneously? Does it pose a settings conflict? Because CGC says so? Idle curiosity.

I'm the poster child for old school. I'm installing mine today, so I'll see what happens.

Aw, man. Now I gotta find out what they both sound like going off together. A cannon maybe, or a shot in a gun range or a canyon with an echo? Maybe I'll need ear protectors.

I want to add a personal sign atop my CCR SE back box, but I'm at a loss as to where/how to tap into 6.3V to illuminate it with an LED strip lite and not interfere with any game functions. I've got a full compliment of Matrix connectors, wedge/bayonet sockets, LEDs etc that I used with older pins. Is there a simple way to do this without messing anything up?

Now that you mention it, my foam is torn up, too. In two places. One like yours where the lock bar holds the glass edge in place, and one (on the back edge) that contacts the cabinet front. I hadn't noticed these before.

foam seal1 (resized).jpg

foam seal2 (resized).jpg

My 5-year-old grandson is on the same track (pun intended). He can beat me on occasion and has learned the rhythm of each game, both EM and SS. To be fair, I'm a terrible player.

Did you have to modify the legs to get those protectors to fit, or has that issue been fixed? I tried using them on my SE (08/22 delivery) but the decal wrinkle factor was even worse.

I will do this and let you know if I hear back from them. I opened up a support ticket back in August '22 when I practically ruined the decals while mounting the legs out of the box. CGC only had advice on how to use screw heads to allow enough separation between the legs and cabinet. I spent hours repairing the crumpled decal areas, but they never looked right. The leg crimps were so bad I had to use extra washers to move them further away from the cabinet to the point where they now wobble -- they're pressing against screw heads, not supported by larger flat metal standoff surfaces.

For clarity sake: are you saying that four of your pins can be played at the same time through the one Polk PSW10 sub and Pinnivators splitter kit?

I have got to hear what that sounds like. Do you know if there's a thread that explains how it all comes together (for the audio challenged pinhead?)

That's what I thought, and that was my question. And that was the answer I was looking for. Thanks.

Hadn't seen the flipper ring comparison report before. Very informative. Thanks for posting.

What the faq is that?

That topper looks pretty good. Can it be lighted, and if so, how?

I would recommend installing a knocker assembly. Easy, inexpensive mod, and well worth it. I didn't think it would make much difference, but now that it's hooked up, it's a real kick when it fires. Sounds like a gun shot, and it really fits the CCR theme.

First playing issue I've had with this great game. Ball lodged firmly between 2 metal guards just right of Bart target. Happened right in the middle of a very busy tournament in my game room. Would not shake out: pulled glass to dislodge. Couldn't find a photo of this on this CCre thread. I'm sure I can figure a way to prevent from happening again but wondering if anyone had this experience and how they solved it.

Bart ball stuck (resized).jpg

Legitimate question. Call CGC directly and ask. This is a question for the manufacturer, not the distributor, dealer, reseller, NIB flipper, etc. Get an email in writing. Don't rely on pinside hearsay. Believe me I know. For that kind of money...

Not to nit pick, but #2-56 x 1/2" - UNC (coarse thread) or UNF (fine thread)? They're available in both, but one won't fit.

Now I'm wondering which one of these statements applies to my SE. I took delivery in August 02 2022.

According to the FAQ (assuming it has the latest updates) one question on the list is, "Can the topper be purchased separately?"

FAQ's Karnac answer: "No. The topper is only available by purchasing an LE or SE+ model."

So if you can't buy a topper, it doesn't matter. Or does it?

There is at least one topper for sale separately on pinside market.

LingBot Thanks for posting this video. I had Titan rings in hand and trying to schedule time to do this. Perfect timing. Of particular help was that gold mine shell disassembly. Say hi to all my friends and neighbors in Central Bux. Nah, best you don't let on you know me.

Hey son, ah said hey son, good thinkin' for that there tip, ya hear me boy? I had the same, ah said I had the same question. (Slap head)
Foghorn Leghorn

I have a new issue on my SE during multiball: the shooter can't eject the ball(s) more than a few inches, so they collect in the shooter lane and bobble up and down with each pulse. I checked the launch assembly itself and it operates fine manually. Then, in adjustments menu I upped the auto-launch solenoid from factory default setting to MAX, and that corrected the problem. But the question is why? Then I tried to run the solenoid tests, but could only enter REPEAT mode which just beeps for each solenoid but none activate. I was unable to enter the RUN mode in this test. Any help is welcome. Thanks.

I got nowhere opening a ticket with CGC. Total waste of time. Then I found these -- exactly what I needed -- and they solved the problem. Thanks to Norm at Carolina Pinballs, my distributor, who paid for them.

https://backalleycreations.com/products/ez-leg-plate

The problem may well be random, but it doesn't surface until after the customer unboxes and bolts on the legs. That's the first time they ever come in contact with the cab decals. Some may not care or even notice the wrinkles they cause. Mine were a PITA to try to repair, and they're still not perfect. If I had to do it over again: never mount the legs without these other metal back plates. 30 bucks ain't worth the risk.

No, they wouldn't do that. But I think from all the customer fury and backlash, CGC must have quietly changed over from the old WMS-era, poorly fitting legs to more suitable ones. It's been quiet: very little discussions in here on this lately (mine was still under warranty at the time) and they've been shipping new units ever since. It was bad PR then, as far as I'm concerned.

Mine is an SE with a mid-2022 build date and a 1900s s/n.

Never had to worry about this issue too much with painted cabs. Whatever damage was there, the legs could pretty well cover it up once in place, even with new legs over old damage. Wrinkling decals changed all that.

Question about Bart's spotlight on top of the motor. I just installed Mageek's water tank mod which involved flipping it over, but before that I never took note what turns that spotlight on. Now it won't light. I can't ID it in the manual so I don't know how to diagnose this thing. Doesn't show up in the either of the lighting tests (T.2 - 01 or 02). Bulb itself is good. Wiring seems solid. It did flicker once for a second during play, then stopped. Any help?

I resoldered the spotlight leads and reseated the connector under the playfield. Works fine now. Thanks.

As I'm now paying attention to it, the spot light gives a pulsing series of hot flashes when the ball goes into Bart's chute. That's a high collision area so check connections above and below the PF. Flash also activates in the adjacent red jackpot loop.