I think CGC makes all their own playfields and cabinets in house. Dust would be normal and wouldn’t take more than a day to accumulate noticeably in that environment.

Businesses have been using the pandemic excuse for lackluster service for way too long.

Even if there wasn’t a supply chain shortage it would be smart for CGC to build a surplus of SE’s. That way distributors could actually have some inventory during the LE and SE+ production phases.

Sure use parts shortage as an excuse but do what’s best for you CGC..it’s your business after all, we are just the consumers.

Perfect..if I was a distributor I would want to have plenty of product to sell when the LE’s hit the line. Whatever number of SE’s CGC initially quoted they were going to produce goes out the window when the true demand is realized. Fill all the initial SE orders then move to the next phase. I don’t see why they would do it any other way. (Other than to make a few people “happy”, which is unlikely to happen regardless).

Don’t forget about the Medieval Madness run they are supposedly doing in 2023 as well. How snugly will that fit into the aforementioned LE/SE+ timeline? Might have to settle for a Chinese knockoff at some point.

That’s it…I’m ordering an LE from Chigaco Gaming in China. The only difference is a bamboo playfield, doesn’t dimple but splinters badly. Bart topper has samurai swords instead of pistols but nobody will notice.

For those who were looking to “number swap” their LE badges…on both my current CGC LE’s the serial numbers on the cabinet and inside of coin door are matched to the badge on the apron. So it will probably not be as simple as just “trading” badges with someone else. Unless having mismatched numbers on your machine doesn’t matter to you.

Wish I had that much spare time to make one of a kind mods at home. Most of them you would literally have to point out to anyone else and explain how/why they even got there. If I went to buy a machine from someone and it had an abundance of goofy mods things might get awkward LOL.

I will definitely let the wife get more than a few games on it before changing the settings..gotta give her a chance to get on the scoreboard.

I think the sound board in this thread needs a ticket opened on it…all I hear is a high pitched whining!!!

A friend was over the other night playing pinball with me in the garage. His parents are doing a game room in their new house. He asked me what machine I would recommend they put in it for novice players and they don’t want to have to work on or tinker with it much. CCr all day…Best $8k you can spend in todays market. Change my mind.

Even more importantly is you can buy a CC SE today brand new and not get raked over the coals. That speaks volumes for me personally.

I think a person will get tired of any machine over the course of time. Explains why everyone is constantly buying/selling/trading them…myself included

If my LE never shows up then I might. Hang onto it for me!!!

Oh wait..I’m going to require the one with a topper though. Never mind.

Eyes on target…engaging!!

$12,500 seems like a pretty good deal for a scalped LE compared to TS4 LE. For those that missed out. I would never sell my CCrLE for $12,500 based on what I’m seeing in the pics.

Because I know what my wife and I enjoy in a machine. Thanks for your concern though boss. You’ll be the one paying $15k for a used one in a few years but it won’t be mine I guarantee that much.

Pinball life sells invisiglass now for a reasonable price. Just slapped a sheet on my Cirqus Voltaire. Makes a huge difference, especially on CV where the DMD is under the glass.

https://www.pinballlife.com/invisiglass-non-glare-playfield-glass-standard.html

I’m trying to wrap my head around why anyone would rely upon hearsay to make an uneducated guess as to when their machine is going to arrive. Order yourself a Big Lebowski with a side of Vaseline just to make things seem a little less painful with this title.

My invoice from PPS clearly states $9,249.99 +shipping…not sure where the confusion on price is coming from. Could they even legally change the price at this point? There has to be at least one lawyer in here.

I’m not worried about anything. If MSRP changes it won’t be on the LE’s that are already sold. Yes purchase contracts are between PPS and the end consumers but I would venture to guess there is an even bigger, much more legally binding contract between PPS and CGC. If I’m not mistaken PPS owns the licensing rights for all Bally/Williams titles. CGC has just been hired to do the dirty work.

Gambling is not allowed in this thread…please refer to the FAQ’s!!!

$9250 is still a good deal for the SE+ compared to a Stern Premium. You won’t be able to flip it for a huge profit like an LE but if gaming pleasure is truly what you seek then I’m sure it will deliver. What’s the big hurry? If you’ve got $9k burning a hole in your pocket to spend on a toy consider yourself lucky.

Take a trip to L.A. and drive around downtown…there are small tent cities worth of people way more screwed over than any of us. It’s all about perspective.

Does anyone else’s dog try to turn their pinball machine legs into a fire hydrant??? I didn’t find a fix for this in the FAQs.

I think I’ll just run the 48V flipper coil voltage through the legs and see if he learns that way.

Just joking around!! Put my deposit down 11/9/21 on an LE and still no action.

Yeah I ordered from PPS as well. They seem a lot more respectable than some distributors and will hopefully fill orders chronologically in which they were received/paid.

I got my final invoice from Planetary Friday 5/5..supposedly it will be shipping directly from CGC on Tuesday. Shipping was $595 all the way out to Oregon. I didn’t ask what LE number I was given.

The easiest way I’ve found to pitch and level a machine. Get a 9 inch plastic bubble level and a digital inclinometer off Amazon. Preferably the rectangular style inclinometer for about $30. Take the plastic bubble level and rest it in between the slings, making sure it’s perpendicular to the pitch (front to back) axis. Gently place the inclinometer on top of and in the center of the level making an upside down T.

Have someone stand up top and read the pitch and level while you crawl around underneath adjusting the legs. Use your upper back to push while you turn the levelers.

Maybe there’s a better way but after you do it a few times it can be accomplished pretty quickly. Having an extra person just keeps you from crawling in and out from under the machine repeatedly.

That looks pretty cool especially the voice function. The first time I tried using a phone app to set up a machine was not so pleasant. This was several years and what forced me to go old school with purpose built tools.

Were there any other cactus canyons in the truck? I’m hoping to get mine next week, your house would be on their way from Chicago to Oregon.

Ahhhh yes!! That’s why they pay you the big bucks.

Try 11/32nds…not a standard size that comes with most socket/wrench sets.

I set mine up the same way..turn the flipper strength way down at first then gradually increase until the ramps are easily made with a clean shot. You shouldn’t be able to bobble the ball around between the ramp posts and still make it up just from sheer force. Just my opinion anyways, much harder on your playfield, scoops, plastics, bash toys etc with the flipper power cranked way up. There’s a fine line for sure but most games I see on location have the flippers way too strong, which will exacerbate flipper fade in a long game.

Just an off topic observation. People post a marketplace ad to sell ONE of their machines but always seem to slip in a couple “flex” pics of their entire lineup filled with LE’s and CE’s etc..

Anyone else see this trend??

A good cost efficient everyday playfield cleaner is called “210 plastic cleaner”. $14 a can and lasts a long time, spray onto an old T-shirt and cleans everything under the glass. No residue whatsoever. Waxing is a pain and doesn’t seem to do a whole lot more than what this spray does. I used to buy this stuff called Plexus but the price has gotten ridiculous. I use colored flipper bands as my dirt gauge and when they start to appear visibly dirty then just wipe everything in a few minutes.

The black “coil” dust that appears is mostly from the pivot bushings used in the flippers slings etc. They are made of very hard compressed graphite for the purpose of dry/self lubrication. Coil stops will shed down into the cabinet but looks more like glitter.

Anyone else have any issues with the leg bolts being too small on their LE? 2/4 bolt heads seemed slightly smaller than 5/8”, causing them to round off in the same socket I’ve used for every other leg bolt for years.

Wish I would have had one of those plastic lined sockets. Removed/installed many leg bolts but never had an issue performing such a simple task before. Thankfully I won’t be needing to remove the legs again for a very long time. Based on my wife’s enjoyment of its gameplay, not going anywhere.

There are lots of “distributors” out there with LE’s available. I don’t see too many for $9,250 plus shipping though. You can even get a Medieval Madness Royal Edition to go along side it from this one distributor here on pinside marketplace for a measly $23,500.