Opened a ticket for the front left leg cutting the front panel decal and bubbling that we discussed in this forum earlier this week. I received a quick response suggesting I use a blow dryer to remove the bubble. Then a follow up response asking if I was good at replacing decals. I responded that I wasn’t sure because I have never tried. Asked how difficult they thought it was. Didn’t get an answer. That exchange was two days ago. Haven’t heard anything since.

I looked for a thread on how to repair decal bubbles and didn't find one. Someone post a link if there is one - I'm curious if a hair dryer would actually work. My experience when removing decals is that they become brittle when heated - but I'm using a heat gun so maybe less heat would be different.

A hair dryer will actually work.

The wrinkled areas are fresh and can be moved a bit to put them back into place.

Mostly after careful warming you can slide them over with a thumb.

Good to know! I wonder how long this works? Asking because it's pretty common on Sterns when they were using the plastic protectors.

All well and good but what are they doing about the actual problem sounds like putting new wipers on a broken windshield! Are they sending new legs?? Or still trying to get to the bottom of it?

How tight are you guys cranking those leg bolts down?? I use plastic cab protectors on every one of my machine. Have for many many years and never had 1 decal wrinkle.

bit much ?

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Lol nice blame the customer do you work for JJP?!

Thank you this worked!

Sorry if my question came across as accusational, It was a sincere question. How tight are the bolts being torqued? I ask because my personal experience with cab protectors has been positive. I wasn't blaming anyone for anything.

That would make sense. I do seem to recall reading in a thread somewhere (maybe this thread?) that someone said their legs were bent inwards past the 90° point causing them to make contact with the decals. That would cause issues for sure.

I thought that CGC were using these or similar ?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0599-00

I was not keen on them when they first appeared, however now they are my preference over plastic or felt spacers.

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The absolute best CGC will do is send u replacement decals. This very thing happened on my AFMRLE and that was their only solution. Replacing decals is a pain in the ass

Plastic and felt spacers still make contact with cabinet decals.

Plastic can put pressure against the decal and tear or bubble the cabinet decals.

Felt can get sticky and sometimes will adhere to the decals which can lead to decal damage if legs and felt need to be removed.

I find it bizarre that CGC may not have addressed the leg, cabinet contact problems ?

The original CC was notorious for leg area, cabinet decal tearing. As was Monster bash.

The problem occurs when the legs are pressed on the brake.

Too much pressure and the legs go past 90 degrees.

The machinist didnt take the time to check one out of every 100 or so. The operator only does what the machinist told him/her.

Basically stamp them all and fill the rack.

This is not the first occurrence of this and probably not the last.

When Spooky encountered this problem they put the ends of the legs in a vise over a block of wood (2 by 4) and widened them a bit to make them a little over 90 degrees.

The machine shop would do the same over a piece of oak 4 by 4.

With a little care and attention to detail (like wrapping the leg end if its painted) this is a 5 min fix.

Check you legs before installing them against a square.

They should be slightly over 90 degrees to be proper.

I was thinking the same earlier today while reading this thread and was curious what that might do to any clearcoating on the LE's... might it crack and chip the clear?

Wrap the leg with something heavy like a moving blanket.

The finishes are so new they will flex a bit before cracking.

Powder coat is also just a paint and gets harder with time.

Rip a nice piece of triangle stock off an old oak pallet 4 by 4.

It only has to be 8" long or so.

This operation does not require too much precision.

Still waiting on a response or fix for my volume issue. I have the game all the way up to volume 30 and still isn’t as loud as my AFMr at 7. There has to be a reason why the difference. Ticket was sent to the engineers and I guess the engineers don’t know??

Valid tips but I still submit that CGC ought to be more diligent in quality control on the legs they are accepting from their supplier to avoid this whole business in the first instance. One should not have to do minor surgery (or more) to brand new original equipment to avoid damage to the product. I analogize it to getting a brand new car with out-of-round wheels. Surely the customer would not feel compelled to conduct surgery on their out-of-round wheels in order to "true them up" so they are perfectly round and roll correctly (or take them to a machine shop to do so). It comes down to quality and attention to detail. Legs are monumentally important to a pin from multiple perspectives and neither CGC nor any other manufacturer should treat them as an afterthought.

To be clear, I appreciate your advice for those with mucked-up legs that are causing decal issues but CGC ought to acknowledge the issue and correct the cause--not the symptoms.

Leaving soapbox now...

These are a great idea and must have for powder coated cabinet hardware.

It would be a nice touch from CGC to have these color coded and also include nicely polished or plated leg bolts included with delivery.

Simple things like this give the product a more practical and premium finish.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/05462-leg-bolt-protective-nylon-washer-set

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For the game to show up not damaged....Mine was not repairable as it was a tear on the side decal

Just watched this video

from Todd at TNT. At the start of the video he is driving a CCr LE to the show that just came out of the box. I was thinking maybe it was just an SE and he had a topper but its definitely an LE. At around the 8:45 mark you can see the game set up and it has a wood arch.

They show it again later in video and the armor is different then the 2 SE's. You can also see the art blades.

I really think this IS the first production LE!!!!

True but at the start of the video he says it just came out of the box. It sure also looks like it did with the banding, foam and keys zip toed to the shooter just like all the unboxings we have seen of the SE

So I watched the start again and he says its an SE right out of the box. However, it has the powder coating, the art blades, topper and wood arch. We need someone to go talk to Ryan and get us more pics.

I have an issue where the Bart kicker continues to fire even when no ball is in there . I have a ticket in but does anyone have any ideas on what that might be ? It does it randomly throughout a game . I cant figure out if that's what is causing gun fight to start and immediately end .

Follow the wires from the sensor to where they plug in under the playfield. Unplug them, then plug back in, and be sure it's tight.

LTG : )

Proto, sample is my guess.
Perhaps someone that attended or Todd can clarify ?
@ LTG as well ?

Ryan is at the show. So my guess is they grabbed a game, maybe dolled it up a little. And sent it to the show.

If it has a topper. It's most likely a prototype Ryan takes with to the shows.

LTG : )

From TNT's Facebook page:

"I spent a great evening with Mike Daddona (of Automated Services) for dinner along with Ryan White (Chicago Gaming) last night, and TNT Frank and John. Not only that, but I get to drive the brand new SE Cactus Canyon with topper to Pintastic!"

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Yes but same verbiage I used with stern in the past got immediate offers and replacements sent for a bad weld on an AIQ ramp and also a plastic ramp on Mando. To me me that says a lot. If theyvwould have just offered hex post which I may have even just politely turned down since I replaced them already, would have gone a long way for my expectations of service in a product that skews toward a high dollar toy.

Mate did you make this or buy it if bought whereabouts thanks

You should have! Then we would have a lot more info.

Lol, maybe CGC decided to pump out some SE+

Let the LE buyers start to go crazy, haha.

Full disclosure, Im down for a LE and happy to wait.

My preference is for these teething problems to be sorted prior to the LE shipping.

In addition, I spent at least 20-30 hours of my own time sorting out JJP design flaws and poor QC on a supposed premium product.

I definitely do not wish to go through that shit again.

@ CGC it is appreciated that take your time to do the best you can in delivering a better product.

Looks like everything is plugged in snug.

I did find this in the Bart scoop. Not sure what it's broken off of or if it's causing anything

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Have heard lots of opinions - how many here wax new CGC games vs leave just the clearcoat?

No more wax for my pinball machines ever.
Wax is for cars, not pinball imho.

Wax will eventually slow the ball down and make more crud on the playfield.

I stopped waxing my playfields a few years ago and stick with Novus 1 for playfield cleaning.

Best decision I ever made for modern playfields.

Agree, I hate wax on modern games myself.