Mine are fairly snappy and the ball does stay up there for a bit.

My pops were pretty dead out of the box. Turns out the pops were adjusted just fine but the sling that's under the two pops was out of adjustment. Made those switches more sensitive and now the pops are lively to my liking. First adjustment I made when I got it.

I've had to adjust all the leaf switches - but this is common due to changes in temperature and humidity. Plus how the game was originally setup at the factory. So I made a video documenting some of these adjustments.

Hey PM_Jeremy haven't see you around for a while. How have you been? Miss watching those live streams you was doing. Are you going to start doing them again? I wasn't able to watch them live but enjoyed the replays. I work nights, so I was mostly sleeping when you went live. Jeremy has some great info in his videos. Definitely helped me when I first got my CCR and the issues covered appeared. Played your machine at Expo last year. Pat Hand was it? Been a while and can't quite remember exactly. Lol

I second this. I too enjoyed your content.

Thanks for question Menthelm & Only_Pinball

After having pinball be my main focus for 6 years with the Pinball Mayhem YouTube channel I decided it was time to step back a bit. I stopped going to shows but still enjoy pinball with friends. Since I quit streaming my machines have turned into storage for my new focus - "Too Many Hobbies Jeremy" YouTube where I am currently working on Lionel trains from the 60s on up. I still enjoy playing my CCr and I am certainly looking forward to the updated code. I'm sure I'll put out a video or videos after that. Perhaps even setup a livestream. I still enjoy some pinball podcasts (Slam Tilt is my fav). Plus I enjoy lurking on a few threads here on Pinside.

Please make sure you give us a heads up in here!

I just threw down on this game the other night. My hands are still sore. (that's what she said).

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Just stumbled across pics of the CC whitewood prototype in another thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-off-your-rareprototype-pinball-stuff#post-2046547

Wonder if this gives us a clue on the hardware component of the code update.

I'd bet good money, the hardware component includes saloon doors. There are posts unused on the current remake machines. And, Josh has been very forward about CGCs wish to stick to the original designers intent/world theme. The original CC was to have saloon doors if I'm not mistaken, and that last pic shows them.

Thats the general consensus. Will be interesting to see how they work as the whitewood has a bunch routed out for the doors.

I'm sure we'll know in 5 years

I hope it's something with Miss Polly getting into trouble again. She can't catch a break!!

My wife is having a great game yesterday, maybe 180M or so on the board so probably 20min into playing she says "polly needs to make better choices" after the 100th time she was in trouble. I was 60ft away and she's hollering this at me. Lol

They should definitely use the train mech in something else. Train robbery and the shoot the bad guys.

Its absolutely this!

Pinballgoddess made the same assessment.

Some girls just LOVE the bad guys.

Polly. What a needy bitch! Always wanting something.

But I think she "likes it"...

She must be she's "getting all wet"

Nobody has asked about the new code update in awhile and ifpapinball hasn’t jumped in to tell them it will be sometime soon. What’s wrong with you people?

I'm expecting to see the reveal at Expo...

Done waiting. Selling mine. Will play it on location.

Awww

Yes, it will be revealed at Expo

I can't wait. Hopefully the kits will be ready to ship

I'm hopeful as well, but keep in mind, we are talking about CGC here......

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I can assume it will be possibly shown as Expo would be the perfect opportunity but I would expect orders to be filled and shipped in 2025

Again I know nothing about this but took me 2yrs to get the actual game from time of order

What is your guess?

We had this talk a while back and most opined that a few years of programming effort and hardware development/manufacturing is dirt-cheap. I believe one animated chap declared, “If it’s over $250, I’m out!”

Let’s hope Josh’s statement comes true.

lol, yeah, let’s play that out. Josh, go spend hundreds and hundreds of hours of your own time over multiple months adding multiple levels of code to the game and create playfield modifications, but you can’t recoup all that cost because you can only charge up to $250. Boy, that sure would motivate me to finish the update……

For context… Josh actually is the programmer and he was ribbing another Pinsider who declared no one would buy if over 250

No, he is the project lead. Pretty sure Sam Zehr is doing the actual coding

Just to be fair, you can't say $250 for all that time and effort. What are they gonna sell, 1 kit? It would be $250 times however many people buy it. Maybe 1000? Maybe more, maybe less. Regardless, there will be a fine line of maximizing profits. Price vs. Value type stuff as is with any commodity. Charge too much, sell less and lose profits. Charge too little, sell lots, but still lose profits. Gotta figure out that sweet spot.

Yeah, Josh was making fun of someone for saying they better not charge more than $250 or it would be DOA. Code update and physical update would likely be well over $250.

I agree. It's 2024. Jaws light-show toppers are 1K. New code and a new mech on CCR will 100% be over $250.

As it should be...

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Hello again all!

My CCr just developed a fairly serious issue. The induction sensor at the mine entrance was registering phantom rollovers super rapidly. I of course read through the FAQ and found the section about the induction PCB board and de-gluing the connection, spreading the pins a bit, then re-seating and re-gluing. I raised my playfield and found the PCB. I could kind of wiggle the wire from the mine entrance induction switch where it plugs into the PCB and sure enough I could hear the sound in the Switch Test. However, after pushing on it a bit, the phantom hits stopped. I lowered the PF and played a bunch and all seemed good. So I really don't have a problem any more, but in the interest of learning what is going on, I thought I'd ask about it.

1. Is this indicative of a bad induction sensor or just a dodgy connection between the plug and socket on the induction sensor PCB?

2. If it's a dodgy connection, would it be expected that this connection can produce the kind of rapid-fire switch engagement that I was experiencing (on the order of 5-10 times per second)?

3. I also noticed that the actual induction sensor mounted on the underside of the playfield was somewhat loose. Being as cramped as it was, and with some sort of plastic doohicky keeping it in place (and also owing to my near-zero experience tinkering with pinball machines), I left it alone. But loose stuff in something that shakes and vibrates as much as CCr does leads me to believe that even if this is not an issue now, it probably will be in the near future.

4. I believe when someone else was having this issue, LTG was kind enough to send along a pdf that helped to explain in detail what the fix was. I would love to get a copy of that if possible.

Now I just want to comment on how incredibly fun this pin continues to be for me and my family. This is our first pin, and I have literally played it every day since we got it 2+ months ago. And when the kids go to sleep and I can't play it any more because of the noise, I get sad, lol! It can be incredibly frustrating at times - watching very experienced players on youtube seemingly effortlessly racking up 200+ million on it makes it look so easy. But I just love all of the progression and the callouts and the DMD animations (which are so easy to miss). I'm so happy I purchased this particular game, but am already looking at maybe getting a Monster Bash (Limited Edition) or a Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition).

Thanks all for reading!

I had the same issue with the mine entrance & the right loop. I tried the usual fixes listed in this thread, but the issue kept popping up. Eventually, I had to put new .100 Molex crimps on a couple of the connectors to fix the issue. That seems to have fixed the issue. My game has been on location since day one, so in a home collection, I can't imagine you ever having this problem again after you put new crimps on.

Hmm, interesting. I assume putting on the new Molex crimps involved soldering? Also, can you provide a link for a site to purchase these .100 crimps?

Thanks for the reply!

No soldering, a crimp connector, is one you need to use a crimping tool to install the connector onto the wire.

No soldering, but you do need a specific crimping tool. www.wirebot.xyz will have everything you need. Watch some youtube videos on how to install Molex connectors before you start.

Is there a way to calibrate the rotation of Bart’s arms? My guys right arm always seems to be like a quarter turn in the wrong direction…

What makes you think that? Mine sits most to the time with the left arm (when looking at bart) gun pointed at you and the right arm pointed down. At various times guns will be up or both pointed at you.

When the game starts up his right arm spins backwards twice the points at you while the left are seems to “home” straight down. During a gunfight his right arm can end up pointing up/backwards…

Both guns should point straight down when they’re not otherwise animating. They calibrate themselves by spinning past sensors that are in the holsters and the guns have magnets in the barrels. It’s a common problem that the sensors in the holsters need to be raised a little to properly detect the guns. Just loosen the couple screws, push the sensors up, retighten.