You can add the topper to an SE.

You can do it if you can find one for sale. The software is in the system in the SE the same as the other editions, just need to turn it on in the settings.

yeah, now I'm looking to see if anyone needs extra cash, and leggo of their topper..which is fair play, imo, because I don't want to have to sell my perfect-running SE, just to find another CCr with a topper. thanks for the headsup guys...

Awesome can’t wait

Jim from CGC contacted me and had me open a ticket. He mailed me a complete replacement for the drop target I was having an issue with from the start. Now during the gunfight and QuickDraw, all 4 targets operate flawlessly. However during the Showdown multi-ball, the 3rd drop target from the left doesn’t always stay up.

Jim’s efforts and communication have been top notch.
I simply swapped out the drop target (4 screws and 2 connectors) and it was working like it was supposed to right out of the box. Hopefully there are some simple adjustments that can be made once he determines what was faulty on my drop target.

Lastly, 3 of the 4 targets are not quite flush and the ball/s jump over them just slightly. I tried to loosen the screw, but it didn’t move. Another task for a another day.

1000 thanks to Jim and all involved at the Chicago Gaming Company.
These machines are beautiful.

Screw at bottom of the mech adjusts target height. Turn up or down as needed.

Push target down to be sure it is all the way flush. Maybe binding on hold in playfield it goes up and down in.

LTG : )

Why isn’t the SE+ noted as an SE+ on the serial number tag? I’m just thinking yrs down the road when ppl are buying and selling and you don’t know what you’re looking at. Is it an SE? Is it an SE+ with a missing topper? Is it an SE+ or did someone added a topper to an SE? Etc etc.

Isn’t the SE+, an SE plus a topper? if the topper is removed isn’t it just an SE?

If it has a topper, it’s a plus. Easy to spot in the wild.

I had the same question, no indication on the box either. I called CGC and the serial number on their side reflects that it's a SE+, as long as they are in business, it can be verified with them.

Marketed as two different things. The difference is SE+ is a run of 1250. Without it being labeled as such how does anyone know? My opinion they should have been tagged as SE+. I can take my topper off my SE+ and put it in your SE that doesn’t make yours an SE+ now. Only by looks.

You just verified my issue. Topper doesn’t signify an SE+. Just like no topper signify an SE. One could have sold a topper one could have bought a topper second hand.
They should have been labeled such. That’s my opinion

Keep in mind there is absolutely no difference between an SE and SE+, other than the topper. The game is identical. Who cares if a game is identified as SE+ if the topper is missing. It won't be now worth less than an SE.

CGC doing things the hard way! Just slap a sticker on the back that says SE+.

The difference is production numbers
(SE+1250) and the possible collectibility for some ppl years later.

No way they're going to sell over 1250 standard editions...

I think you're missing the big picture. The SE+ is an SE with a topper. Period. There is nothing else different or special about it.

I fail to understand the collectibility aspect you are eluding to. ANY SE with a topper is an SE+. ANY SE+ without a topper is an SE. They are the same game.

The production numbers are in how many additional toppers were built. Your money is tied to the topper.

I don't have a topper. Nor do I need one. But an SE+ missing a topper would bring NOTHING over an SE because you would have removed the + from the equation. No reason to give you a special plaque.

I was thinking the same thing. Since I have an SE I guess my game will be worth more 30 years from now because they made less SE's than SE+ and LE's. LOL Gonna tell my daughters to make sure they hold on to this one. They can sell the rest of my collection upon death but not the CCr SE. Oh no. Hold on to that. Lowest production numbers. Will command a few thousand more bucks in 30 years.

they wont ... delayed the the international shipping due to ULC Approvals , got mine with no compliance sticker and marked USA on the shipping box !

Lies!
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It’s the same machine. It doesn’t matter what they call either of them. It’s the same machine and no matter what label they put on it, it doesn’t change the fact that it is the exact same machine. The only thing that differentiates them is the topper.

I don't give a shit what it's called... se, se+, lmpgq.

I want one. Looks so fun!

At least we have Expo coming up where CGC is an exhibitor. Surely we'll get some kind of update. It will be the 2 year anniversary of my LE deposit.

Ooh whee! Look what just showed up!

PXL_20230927_131331530.MP (resized).jpg

is that an SE or SE+ ...

congratulations on your SE+ have fun !

Too funny ... glad you fixed something CGC couldn't... lol

One thing I noticed is the glass tends to float down on my CC making it impossible to latch. You actually have to push on the glass towards the back box as you tighten or loosen the latch channel.

Has anyone else noticed the gun barrels on the topper has magnets in them?
Any reason why this would be?

that is pretty common on a lot of machines that I've owned or own..better that than a new stern pin (like my Foo LE) where the glass is so tight, that only I'M allowed to take it out..because if bent, the glass WILL shatter everywhere..I'd rather have loosey-goosey (in this case, lol) .

There is a sensor in the base for them.

There are little circuit boards mounted behind the holsters that have sensors to detect the magnets. It lets the game know where the topper bad guys arms are positioned.

TLDR: anyone want to buy CCR SE+ $100 under MSRP from Flip N Out? Pm me.

The long story… I’ve had a deposit with Zach at flip n out for a year and it finally came in. I already got my game elsewhere tho. So I’d like to recoup some of my $250 deposit and move the spot on to someone. I’ll give my spot for $150. I’m giving up $100 cause he has them in stock. You could just buy one. So this is a little incentive to take my spot. I’ve checked with Zach and he said it’s fine to transfer. This would be like you bought from Zach at $100 under MSRP. It’s rdy to ship.

As for tax and shipping it would be whatever flip n out standard policy is, you could ask Zach (I think he’s doing $500 shipping these days?)

So you couldn't wait either

I have a problem with adding a shaker. The shaker is good as tested with a car battery...12 volts. The shaker setting is set at maximum. A coil test at J114 only shows .3 volts maximum. Any ideas?

I did wait over a year for the one I have now, also NIB from another distributor. I put a second deposit with Zach for not very rational reasons.

Just to check.

High power interlock switch doesn't have to be enabled. When you are on Shaker Test - are you holding down the Enter diagnostic button ?

LTG : )

Just an update on our lock down bar that was so hard to lock in place. I lifted the playfield as suggested by LTG and noticed that it does not matter how much up or down I turn the screws, it still did not want to latch. After fiddling with it for a while, I figured it out that the tabs on the lock down bar needs to be bend "back", towards the front of the pin, and bingo, I was able to get it to lock in place as it should. So, for those struggling with the same issue, gif it a go.

Now I just need to take some pictures of the underside of Bart and send it to CGC so they can figure out why our Bart hat rod has so much drag that it does not want to slid up and down.

There is a screw holding the hat rod thingy in place, it is very hard to see as it is above the mech. That screw had backed out on mine and was jambing on the ramp and causing not only that hat problem but prevented bart moving side to side. Check out this pic, you can see it's backed out.

IMG_9875 (resized).jpeg

I have the same issue with my lockdown bar but don’t quite understand what you bent and how. Any pics?

I will check it out, but Bart move side to side without any issues.

Not sure how to post pictures, but if you take the lock down bar out, the 2 tabs that go down into the pin, need to be bend a bit. In my case, towards the front of the pin if looking at it from above.

Thanks for both answers.

Yes. Enter button gives me a slight voltage. 0.3volts but that's all. Game plays perfectly otherwise

They are for hall sensors or magnetic reed switches in the base to indicate to machine that the arms are in the down position, I believe.

Got my notice on my LE being ready. Paid my invoice. Both done yesterday. Should be pick up today and get me tracking tomorrow. Hope this opens the gates for a flood of the LE version.

Both you guys don't have hearts (donation to Pinside). That's why pictures won't download. Happy you were able to figure out your lockdown bar issue!