Jim from support did a great job in helping me troubleshoot the arms issue on the topper, I raised the PCB after loosening the screws and it now works. Since I understand better how it is designed it makes total sense that the arm was spinning looking for a magnet connection, now it is raised so it senses it.

Super happy with speed of response from ticket.

Same here. Bought one because I had just sold my STTNG, the money was burning a whole in my pocket and they were available for immediate shipping. Had no interest in this game prior. Now it's a keeper for sure.

Thinking about buying one,is there any word on the code Lyman did for the remake?

Check the FAQ for an update. Josh posted about it recently.

LTG : )

There's no specific deadline for it to be completed.

In the time it took you to type out look it up in the FAQ, you could have just answered the man’s question LOL

I didn't recall the details of why or time frame.

Next time I'll just ignore it.

Im building a physical knocker tomorrow out of used parts.

Does the knocker fire during shootouts?

GOD I LOVE THIS GAME ! ! ! ! ! !

Pinballgoddess made me change my settings back to 3 Bart bro's from my setting of 4 for getting the extrs ball and setting up Bionic Bart.

Her logic was that there are only 3 on the backglass and the game should match it.
So, Im back to 3. ( Oh, and for the female pinsiders: "boys are stupid")...

No

Last numbers delivered were in the 600’s. That was 2 weeks ago. Any updates on what was delivered this week?

Too bad, It would have been AMAZING if a gun were fired, the knocker would go off.

I saw someone on FB selling 686 I think it was definitely 68x.

Same with Houdini.

Joined the club today, supposedly it is the last one at CGC, hoping to have next week.

Last one what? lol

CGC is only about half-way through the production queue. Pretty sure there will be over 500 other last ones after this one

After getting a few ball hangs under the Bart mech I made an adjustment.

The lower metal wall of the Bart mech, that leads to the popper subway, interferes with the lower wall of the popper subway. The ball has to bounce over this mis-alignment.

This causes an errant bounce that causes the ball to "hang" in the upper right corner of the mech, or just stay there (in the lower right corner) on my game.

Using needle nose pliers I slightly bent the popper wall/tab corner "UP" enough (1/16" or a little more) so that the ball no longer bounces off of it.

So far in the last 20 games, the ball hasn't hung under the Bart mech.

My playfield pitch is 7 degrees and perfectly level horizontally.
ball hang adjustment (resized).jpg

Ill post more fixes if this isnt enough of an adjustment.

But, so far, so good.

The Flyland art blades come with a small rectangular cutout. Does this go on the game anywhere?

I know these are covered in the FAQs, I'm just posting here for transparency on common issues users are seeing regularly. My HUO game is under 150 total plays. I'm currently dealing with some pretty bad flipper hop (this makes the game way less fun to play as you can't aim a shot without cradling first). I'm also having the missing nut issue on the beer mug, causing it to hit really hard on the glass. If you're getting a new one delivered, I would be prepared to deal with both issues right away.

These are minor problems overall and easily fixable with a little work. The game itself is amazing and the build quality is really good despite a few common issues most new owners are having. I'm having a blast playing (except for the whole ball hop issue right now) and really looking forward to the new code whenever it is finally available. Happy to wait another year or two on that and just keep enjoying the game as-is until then.

Pm if interested… the hand weathering on the saloon sign takes some time so I’m not sure how many of these I’ll make.

5111B358-2B57-401B-8A07-A1C8B4A2C808 (resized).jpeg

7AADDC30-3B66-469F-98ED-C03DA583413A (resized).jpeg

55370731-995A-43AA-94B4-EA23D7039398 (resized).jpeg

The earlier post on raising the ball guide sems to work 100% for the ball hop. Raise it so that the center of the ball rides the guide, then it will miss the end wire that causes the hop.

The earlier post of getting a 2-56 nylock nut, plus adding a jam nut with red locktite, from the hardware store seems to work well for the beer mug. Lloyd suggested getting a brass nut and soldering it onto the wire,. I like this solution the best.

Reading some of the earlier posts can yield some great results.

Looks great though ...
Nice job

Just got the SE plus in today. Topper doesn’t seem to be working. I went into test mode and tested the arms but the silinoid to make Bart go forwards and backwards is not working. Any help would be appreciated.

70684282352__868DD8B2-7E22-4AA2-B576-2DE487106008 (resized).jpeg

70684439388__C0DEE9C5-0240-402D-8895-6E4C4393BC9C (resized).jpeg

Make sure topper is enabled in settings.

So SE+ are shipping now? LE’s are done?

Check the F118 Fuse and see if it is good. If blown there is a spare in the cashbox.
Jim

OK I’ll check the settings and make sure it’s enabled as well as checking the fuse.Thank you for your help.

Hope I get that Looks great!!!!

Light at the end of the tunnel

Make sure to pull the door switch, otherwise the (high) power for the solenoid is disabled.

Also make sure the connectors to the topper are fully seated.

I have to disagree with this.

The ball hop is not caused by the ball hitting the end of the wire form. It is caused by the ball falling into the butt of the flipper rubber as it exits the ball guide. If the ball guide in your case is riding below the center of the ball then by all means raise it to the center of the ball and see if that is sufficient. Depending on the relationship between the ball guide and the Flipper that may not be enough.

In my case, I needed to raise the ball guide 3mm above the center of the ball to eliminate the ball hop. Because of the way the ball guide curves at the end, this alignment causes the ball to move away from the flipper as it exits the ball guide, thus the ball clears the butt of the flipper and viola! No flipper hop.

Here is the documentation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/238#post-7548459

You did a great job documenting this problem!

So, it appears that raising the ball guide is a simple solution for this annoyng problem. Whether its to be raised to the center of the ball (which should be the factory height) or 3 mm higher, is conditional.

However, I think in most cases raising it above the centerline of the ball untill the ball tracks properly, will give the best results.

Being able to adjust the trajectory line of the ball is a powerful tool.

It was fascinating to watch the video!

I love simple solutions

** Memorial Day SALE! **
Use Coupon Code "Memorialday10" For 10% off! Limited time, Order now
My two Cactus Canyon Mods are on sale.
River Rescue Polly, which can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1510-creekside-hideaway-llc/08528-river-rescue-polly
~and~
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1510-creekside-hideaway-llc/08559-shooter-guide-label

Enjoy the weekend!

Shooter guide (resized).jpg

mkt1 (resized).jpg

I think the shooter gauge decal would look better if it matched the wood grain of the wooden apron and had wood burning "look" engraving.

I raised my inlane wire forms up today. Did the obligatory slo mo videos. Much better, less ball hop on flipper rubbers now. But I noticed those wire forms, especially the left one at the left flipper are pretty loose going into the playfield. I can move that one side to side and up and down by hand. Not sure if my changes to its position will hold?

Pull it out an put Titebond III wood glue on the wire ends, and a little bit in the holes.

It will expand the wood and firm up the wires.

It will hold really good.

Trying to identify the spot where you bent the metal. Is mine the same?

IMG_3034 (resized).jpeg

I bent the upper corner tab "UP" a bit, highlighted in the center circle, however mine was a bit closer than yours.
I also bent the lower corner down/outwards? slightly but it probably didnt do anything.
It wont hurt it to bend the upper corner a little and see if it solves your problem.
this area (resized).jpg

We played another 20 games last night and still no subway hang.
So, I guess it worked.

The only other hang we are having is if a ball VERY gently rests on the sling under the pops, it will stay there.

Its a PITA the reach the leaf switches for adjustment, but they could be a bit more sensitive, same with the pops.

However, with a shaker motor, one can only go so far as everything will fire when the shaker goes off, if its set too close.

Im leaving those adjustments alone for now.

Got it! How about a fix for when the ball pops out of Bart and gets hung up to the right of his head on the sheet metal? Several photos of this have been posted here. It’s been happening to me A LOT lately.

See if you can set the ball there by hand.

You might have to bend/tweak the metal edge a little so the ball stops hanging there.

Keep fiddling with it until you cant get the ball to rest there.

I use a 4" crescent wrench to gently move flat-rail and mech tabs, as it wont scratch them up.
Duckbill pliers are also good.

LTG had a couple solutions in this thread

Last one for the current run, would have to wait awhile if I didn't grab this one. At least that is what I was told, who knows

Just setting up my LE. Excited to play my first game and the left flipper button gets stuck in or is very slow to pop back out. I believe this is my first game with this flipper button assembly. Thoughts on how to loosen it up?

Thanks!

See how the button stays “in” in the photos?

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Use needle nose pliers to remove/loosen the "tin" pal-nut that holds the button in.

Remove the button and see if its "sticky" out of the game.

Sometimes they are just poorly molded and need to be freed up, or replaced. Sometimes there is something sticky on them and can be washed with hot soapy water.

You can add silicone oil the the button shaft to help it, but often it needs to be ripped apart, sanded a bit then trim off any bits of plastic left over from molding it.

They can be tough to rip apart. I hammer them thru a hole on a piece of wood, sometimes this works without destroying them.

But mostly, I just replace them with ones that are NOT sticky, they used to be 50 cents, I have a bag of them.

Sometimes its the opto interrupter thats binding on the optos.

You can easily remove the board and assembly to see whats binding and free it up, or just assemble it better.

Sometimes the plastic interrupter binds on the metal spring steel.

I just pull it apart and dremel out a little of the steel to free it up.

Also, what is this part? Was sitting behind the buildings on the topper. I don’t see anything that looks missing

D8629E88-FF3E-490C-BFBC-263209B5368B (resized).jpeg

I specifically chose the design so it would look just as good on an SE (that doesn't have woodgrain) as it does on the LE. I chose to match the playfield since both levels share the denim theme.

Save it in the coin box. It might just be left over from assembly.

If you figure it out later, you will have it.