(Topic ID: 310125)

Cactus Canyon Remake Club - New Sheriffs in Town! (with FAQs)

By jfh

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15,345 posts
  • 751 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by ottodawg
  • Topic is favorited by 382 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Which version have you ordered and/or received?”

  • Limited Edition [LE] 331 votes
    51%
  • Special Edition with Wild West topper [SE+] 103 votes
    16%
  • Special Edition [SE] 217 votes
    33%

(651 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 15,345 posts in this topic. You are on page 250 of 307.
#12451 10 months ago

Jim from support did a great job in helping me troubleshoot the arms issue on the topper, I raised the PCB after loosening the screws and it now works. Since I understand better how it is designed it makes total sense that the arm was spinning looking for a magnet connection, now it is raised so it senses it.

Super happy with speed of response from ticket.

#12452 10 months ago
Quoted from atrainn:

For a game I never had any plans of picking up CCr has grown on me a lot very quickly. I'm loving it.

Same here. Bought one because I had just sold my STTNG, the money was burning a whole in my pocket and they were available for immediate shipping. Had no interest in this game prior. Now it's a keeper for sure.

#12453 10 months ago

Thinking about buying one,is there any word on the code Lyman did for the remake?

#12454 10 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Thinking about buying one,is there any word on the code Lyman did for the remake?

Check the FAQ for an update. Josh posted about it recently.

LTG : )

#12455 10 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Thinking about buying one,is there any word on the code Lyman did for the remake?

There's no specific deadline for it to be completed.

-2
#12456 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the FAQ for an update. Josh posted about it recently.
LTG : )

In the time it took you to type out look it up in the FAQ, you could have just answered the man’s question LOL

11
#12457 10 months ago
Quoted from MooButt:

In the time it took you to type out look it up in the FAQ, you could have just answered the man’s question

I didn't recall the details of why or time frame.

Next time I'll just ignore it.

#12458 10 months ago
Quoted from TonyP66:

Jim from support did a great job in helping me troubleshoot the arms issue on the topper, I raised the PCB after loosening the screws and it now works. Since I understand better how it is designed it makes total sense that the arm was spinning looking for a magnet connection, now it is raised so it senses it.
Super happy with speed of response from ticket.

Jim reached out to me as well about my arms. Very nice guy and has fix for me too.

#12459 10 months ago

Im building a physical knocker tomorrow out of used parts.

Does the knocker fire during shootouts?

GOD I LOVE THIS GAME ! ! ! ! ! !

Pinballgoddess made me change my settings back to 3 Bart bro's from my setting of 4 for getting the extrs ball and setting up Bionic Bart.

Her logic was that there are only 3 on the backglass and the game should match it.
So, Im back to 3. ( Oh, and for the female pinsiders: "boys are stupid")...

#12460 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im building a physical knocker tomorrow out of used parts.
Does the knocker fire during shootouts?

No

#12461 10 months ago

Last numbers delivered were in the 600’s. That was 2 weeks ago. Any updates on what was delivered this week?

#12462 10 months ago

Too bad, It would have been AMAZING if a gun were fired, the knocker would go off.

#12463 10 months ago
Quoted from dog:

Last numbers delivered were in the 600’s. That was 2 weeks ago. Any updates on what was delivered this week?

I saw someone on FB selling 686 I think it was definitely 68x.

#12464 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It would have been AMAZING if a gun were fired, the knocker would go off.

Oktoberfest uses its knocker for effect during the target shooting and duck hunt modes. Definitely adds to the immersion.

#12465 10 months ago
Quoted from Ballderdash:

Oktoberfest uses its knocker for effect during the target shooting and duck hunt modes. Definitely adds to the immersion.

Same with Houdini.

#12466 10 months ago

Joined the club today, supposedly it is the last one at CGC, hoping to have next week.

#12467 10 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Joined the club today, supposedly it is the last one at CGC, hoping to have next week.

giphy (1).gifgiphy (1).gif
#12468 10 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Joined the club today, supposedly it is the last one at CGC, hoping to have next week.

Last one what? lol

CGC is only about half-way through the production queue. Pretty sure there will be over 500 other last ones after this one

#12469 10 months ago

After getting a few ball hangs under the Bart mech I made an adjustment.

The lower metal wall of the Bart mech, that leads to the popper subway, interferes with the lower wall of the popper subway. The ball has to bounce over this mis-alignment.

This causes an errant bounce that causes the ball to "hang" in the upper right corner of the mech, or just stay there (in the lower right corner) on my game.

Using needle nose pliers I slightly bent the popper wall/tab corner "UP" enough (1/16" or a little more) so that the ball no longer bounces off of it.

So far in the last 20 games, the ball hasn't hung under the Bart mech.

My playfield pitch is 7 degrees and perfectly level horizontally.
ball hang adjustment (resized).jpgball hang adjustment (resized).jpg

Ill post more fixes if this isnt enough of an adjustment.

But, so far, so good.

#12470 10 months ago

The Flyland art blades come with a small rectangular cutout. Does this go on the game anywhere?

#12471 10 months ago

I know these are covered in the FAQs, I'm just posting here for transparency on common issues users are seeing regularly. My HUO game is under 150 total plays. I'm currently dealing with some pretty bad flipper hop (this makes the game way less fun to play as you can't aim a shot without cradling first). I'm also having the missing nut issue on the beer mug, causing it to hit really hard on the glass. If you're getting a new one delivered, I would be prepared to deal with both issues right away.

These are minor problems overall and easily fixable with a little work. The game itself is amazing and the build quality is really good despite a few common issues most new owners are having. I'm having a blast playing (except for the whole ball hop issue right now) and really looking forward to the new code whenever it is finally available. Happy to wait another year or two on that and just keep enjoying the game as-is until then.

#12472 10 months ago

Pm if interested… the hand weathering on the saloon sign takes some time so I’m not sure how many of these I’ll make.

5111B358-2B57-401B-8A07-A1C8B4A2C808 (resized).jpeg5111B358-2B57-401B-8A07-A1C8B4A2C808 (resized).jpeg7AADDC30-3B66-469F-98ED-C03DA583413A (resized).jpeg7AADDC30-3B66-469F-98ED-C03DA583413A (resized).jpeg55370731-995A-43AA-94B4-EA23D7039398 (resized).jpeg55370731-995A-43AA-94B4-EA23D7039398 (resized).jpeg
#12473 10 months ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

I know these are covered in the FAQs, I'm just posting here for transparency on common issues users are seeing regularly. My HUO game is under 150 total plays. I'm currently dealing with some pretty bad flipper hop (this makes the game way less fun to play as you can't aim a shot without cradling first). I'm also having the missing nut issue on the beer mug, causing it to hit really hard on the glass. If you're getting a new one delivered, I would be prepared to deal with both issues right away.
These are minor problems overall and easily fixable with a little work. The game itself is amazing and the build quality is really good despite a few common issues most new owners are having. I'm having a blast playing (except for the whole ball hop issue right now) and really looking forward to the new code whenever it is finally available. Happy to wait another year or two on that and just keep enjoying the game as-is until then.

The earlier post on raising the ball guide sems to work 100% for the ball hop. Raise it so that the center of the ball rides the guide, then it will miss the end wire that causes the hop.

The earlier post of getting a 2-56 nylock nut, plus adding a jam nut with red locktite, from the hardware store seems to work well for the beer mug. Lloyd suggested getting a brass nut and soldering it onto the wire,. I like this solution the best.

Reading some of the earlier posts can yield some great results.

#12474 10 months ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

the hand weathering on the saloon sign takes some time

Looks great though ...
Nice job

#12475 10 months ago

Just got the SE plus in today. Topper doesn’t seem to be working. I went into test mode and tested the arms but the silinoid to make Bart go forwards and backwards is not working. Any help would be appreciated.

70684282352__868DD8B2-7E22-4AA2-B576-2DE487106008 (resized).jpeg70684282352__868DD8B2-7E22-4AA2-B576-2DE487106008 (resized).jpeg70684439388__C0DEE9C5-0240-402D-8895-6E4C4393BC9C (resized).jpeg70684439388__C0DEE9C5-0240-402D-8895-6E4C4393BC9C (resized).jpeg
#12476 10 months ago
Quoted from epichoff:

Just got the SE plus in today. Topper doesn’t seem to be working. I went into test mode and tested the arms but the silinoid to make Bart go forwards and backwards is not working. Any help would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure topper is enabled in settings.

#12477 10 months ago

So SE+ are shipping now? LE’s are done?

#12478 10 months ago
Quoted from epichoff:

Just got the SE plus in today. Topper doesn’t seem to be working. I went into test mode and tested the arms but the silinoid to make Bart go forwards and backwards is not working. Any help would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Check the F118 Fuse and see if it is good. If blown there is a spare in the cashbox.
Jim

#12479 10 months ago

OK I’ll check the settings and make sure it’s enabled as well as checking the fuse.Thank you for your help.

#12480 10 months ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

Pm if interested… the hand weathering on the saloon sign takes some time so I’m not sure how many of these I’ll make. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hope I get that Looks great!!!!

#12481 10 months ago
Quoted from epichoff:

Just got the SE plus in today. Topper doesn’t seem to be working. I went into test mode and tested the arms but the silinoid to make Bart go forwards and backwards is not working. Any help would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Light at the end of the tunnel

#12482 10 months ago
Quoted from epichoff:

OK I’ll check the settings and make sure it’s enabled as well as checking the fuse.Thank you for your help.

Make sure to pull the door switch, otherwise the (high) power for the solenoid is disabled.

#12483 10 months ago
Quoted from epichoff:

OK I’ll check the settings and make sure it’s enabled as well as checking the fuse.Thank you for your help.

Also make sure the connectors to the topper are fully seated.

#12484 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The earlier post on raising the ball guide sems to work 100% for the ball hop. Raise it so that the center of the ball rides the guide, then it will miss the end wire that causes the hop.
The earlier post of getting a 2-56 nylock nut, plus adding a jam nut with red locktite, from the hardware store seems to work well for the beer mug. Lloyd suggested getting a brass nut and soldering it onto the wire,. I like this solution the best.
Reading some of the earlier posts can yield some great results.

I have to disagree with this.

The ball hop is not caused by the ball hitting the end of the wire form. It is caused by the ball falling into the butt of the flipper rubber as it exits the ball guide. If the ball guide in your case is riding below the center of the ball then by all means raise it to the center of the ball and see if that is sufficient. Depending on the relationship between the ball guide and the Flipper that may not be enough.

In my case, I needed to raise the ball guide 3mm above the center of the ball to eliminate the ball hop. Because of the way the ball guide curves at the end, this alignment causes the ball to move away from the flipper as it exits the ball guide, thus the ball clears the butt of the flipper and viola! No flipper hop.

Here is the documentation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/238#post-7548459

#12485 10 months ago
Quoted from alveolus:

I have to disagree with this.
The ball hop is not caused by the ball hitting the end of the wire form. It is caused by the ball falling into the butt of the flipper rubber as it exits the ball guide. If the ball guide in your case is riding below the center of the ball then by all means raise it to the center of the ball and see if that is sufficient. Depending on the relationship between the ball guide and the Flipper that may not be enough.
In my case, I needed to raise the ball guide 3mm above the center of the ball to eliminate the ball hop. Because of the way the ball guide curves at the end, this alignment causes the ball to move away from the flipper as it exits the ball guide, thus the ball clears the butt of the flipper and viola! No flipper hop.
Here is the documentation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/238#post-7548459

You did a great job documenting this problem!

So, it appears that raising the ball guide is a simple solution for this annoyng problem. Whether its to be raised to the center of the ball (which should be the factory height) or 3 mm higher, is conditional.

However, I think in most cases raising it above the centerline of the ball untill the ball tracks properly, will give the best results.

Being able to adjust the trajectory line of the ball is a powerful tool.

It was fascinating to watch the video!

I love simple solutions

#12486 10 months ago

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Enjoy the weekend!

Shooter guide (resized).jpgShooter guide (resized).jpgmkt1 (resized).jpgmkt1 (resized).jpg
#12487 10 months ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

** Memorial Day SALE! **
Use Coupon Code "Memorialday10" For 10% off! Limited time, Order now
My two Cactus Canyon Mods are on sale.
River Rescue Polly, which can be found here:
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~and~
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Enjoy the weekend!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think the shooter gauge decal would look better if it matched the wood grain of the wooden apron and had wood burning "look" engraving.

#12488 10 months ago

I raised my inlane wire forms up today. Did the obligatory slo mo videos. Much better, less ball hop on flipper rubbers now. But I noticed those wire forms, especially the left one at the left flipper are pretty loose going into the playfield. I can move that one side to side and up and down by hand. Not sure if my changes to its position will hold?

#12489 10 months ago
Quoted from audihere:

I raised my inlane wire forms up today. Did the obligatory slo mo videos. Much better, less ball hop on flipper rubbers now. But I noticed those wire forms, especially the left one at the left flipper are pretty loose going into the playfield. I can move that one side to side and up and down by hand. Not sure if my changes to its position will hold?

Pull it out an put Titebond III wood glue on the wire ends, and a little bit in the holes.

It will expand the wood and firm up the wires.

It will hold really good.

#12490 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

After getting a few ball hangs under the Bart mech I made an adjustment.
The lower metal wall of the Bart mech, that leads to the popper subway, interferes with the lower wall of the popper subway. The ball has to bounce over this mis-alignment.
This causes an errant bounce that causes the ball to "hang" in the upper right corner of the mech, or just stay there (in the lower right corner) on my game.
Using needle nose pliers I slightly bent the popper wall/tab corner "UP" enough (1/16" or a little more) so that the ball no longer bounces off of it.
So far in the last 20 games, the ball hasn't hung under the Bart mech.
My playfield pitch is 7 degrees and perfectly level horizontally.
[quoted image]
Ill post more fixes if this isnt enough of an adjustment.
But, so far, so good.

Trying to identify the spot where you bent the metal. Is mine the same?

IMG_3034 (resized).jpegIMG_3034 (resized).jpeg
#12491 10 months ago
Quoted from audihere:

Trying to identify the spot where you bent the metal. Is mine the same?[quoted image]

I bent the upper corner tab "UP" a bit, highlighted in the center circle, however mine was a bit closer than yours.
I also bent the lower corner down/outwards? slightly but it probably didnt do anything.
It wont hurt it to bend the upper corner a little and see if it solves your problem.
this area (resized).jpgthis area (resized).jpg

We played another 20 games last night and still no subway hang.
So, I guess it worked.

The only other hang we are having is if a ball VERY gently rests on the sling under the pops, it will stay there.

Its a PITA the reach the leaf switches for adjustment, but they could be a bit more sensitive, same with the pops.

However, with a shaker motor, one can only go so far as everything will fire when the shaker goes off, if its set too close.

Im leaving those adjustments alone for now.

#12492 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I bent the upper corner tab "UP" a bit, highlighted in the center circle, however mine was a bit closer than yours.
I also bent the lower corner down/outwards? slightly but it probably didnt do anything:
[quoted image]
We played another 20 games last night and still no subway hang.
So, I guess it worked.
The only other hang we are having is if a ball VERY gently rests on the sling under the pops, it will stay there.
Its a PITA the reach the leaf switches for adjustment, but they could be a more sensitive, same with the pops.
However, with a shaker motor, one can only go so far as everything will fire when the shaker goes off, if its set too close.
Im leaving those adjustments alone for now.

Got it! How about a fix for when the ball pops out of Bart and gets hung up to the right of his head on the sheet metal? Several photos of this have been posted here. It’s been happening to me A LOT lately.

#12493 10 months ago
Quoted from audihere:

Got it! How about a fix for when the ball pops out of Bart and gets hung up to the right of his head on the sheet metal? Several photos of this have been posted here. It’s been happening to me A LOT lately.

See if you can set the ball there by hand.

You might have to bend/tweak the metal edge a little so the ball stops hanging there.

Keep fiddling with it until you cant get the ball to rest there.

I use a 4" crescent wrench to gently move flat-rail and mech tabs, as it wont scratch them up.
Duckbill pliers are also good.

LTG had a couple solutions in this thread

#12494 10 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Last one what? lol
CGC is only about half-way through the production queue. Pretty sure there will be over 500 other last ones after this one

Last one for the current run, would have to wait awhile if I didn't grab this one. At least that is what I was told, who knows

#12495 10 months ago

Just setting up my LE. Excited to play my first game and the left flipper button gets stuck in or is very slow to pop back out. I believe this is my first game with this flipper button assembly. Thoughts on how to loosen it up?

Thanks!

See how the button stays “in” in the photos?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#12496 10 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Last one for the current run, would have to wait awhile if I didn't grab this one. At least that is what I was told, who knows

giphy.gifgiphy.gif
#12497 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Just setting up my LE. Excited to play my first game and the left flipper button gets stuck in or is very slow to pop back out. I believe this is my first game with this flipper button assembly. Thoughts on how to loosen it up?
Thanks!
See how the button stays “in” in the photos?[quoted image][quoted image]

Use needle nose pliers to remove/loosen the "tin" pal-nut that holds the button in.

Remove the button and see if its "sticky" out of the game.

Sometimes they are just poorly molded and need to be freed up, or replaced. Sometimes there is something sticky on them and can be washed with hot soapy water.

You can add silicone oil the the button shaft to help it, but often it needs to be ripped apart, sanded a bit then trim off any bits of plastic left over from molding it.

They can be tough to rip apart. I hammer them thru a hole on a piece of wood, sometimes this works without destroying them.

But mostly, I just replace them with ones that are NOT sticky, they used to be 50 cents, I have a bag of them.

Sometimes its the opto interrupter thats binding on the optos.

You can easily remove the board and assembly to see whats binding and free it up, or just assemble it better.

Sometimes the plastic interrupter binds on the metal spring steel.

I just pull it apart and dremel out a little of the steel to free it up.

#12498 10 months ago

Also, what is this part? Was sitting behind the buildings on the topper. I don’t see anything that looks missing

D8629E88-FF3E-490C-BFBC-263209B5368B (resized).jpegD8629E88-FF3E-490C-BFBC-263209B5368B (resized).jpeg
#12499 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think the shooter gauge decal would look better if it matched the wood grain of the wooden apron and had wood burning "look" engraving.

I specifically chose the design so it would look just as good on an SE (that doesn't have woodgrain) as it does on the LE. I chose to match the playfield since both levels share the denim theme.

#12500 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Also, what is this part? Was sitting behind the buildings on the topper. I don’t see anything that looks missing
[quoted image]

Save it in the coin box. It might just be left over from assembly.

If you figure it out later, you will have it.

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