Try my settings above...Very satisfying game play when you accomplish something.

I changed the single replay to fixed, at 45 million, I might go higher to say 65 million.

My settings are for novice to medium level players.

A good competition player can "blow up" this game regardless of how its set up.

Thats not me...

The one I use is not the cleaner wax. As to the white traces, a careful follow up with a heat gun on low melts it.

Am I the only one having troubles with the ball going into the saloon or behind it? The ball gets kicked out without any score or Bart reaction. It just gets kicked out.

It sure makes it harder to beat Bionic Bart mode.

This is pretty good wax with low solvents in it:

https://mothers.com/products/california-gold-pure-brazilian-carnauba-wax-step-3-05550

Yup, that's it.

I had this error as well. Turns out, the Bottom Jet is actually the Mine Kicker that spits the ball into the Left Jet and Right Jet.

Since its an "old school" bar or hard wax, super thin coats are very effective on a very lightly dampened applicator.

But since its not "rock hard" like granite, it has solvents in it to make it possible to apply it without melting it in a pot and pouring it on (very old school).

Even these hard waxes remove the prior wax as you apply it, but not all of it.

This is why I strip it off with naptha to clean it up every 900 plays.

Lots of dirt appears on my naptha rag...

Hey everyone. I just added the saloon doors and train station sign mod from Shapeways.com. I think it came out pretty good! You have to paint it yourself but it was no big deal. A lot cheaper than the Mezel mods train station and it doesn’t hide barts face!

3BA6A22A-6F8E-44F2-B2CC-399CD5266D66 (resized).jpeg

C34E21EF-9569-407F-92A4-295C251E1DFD (resized).jpeg

C512FCC9-7F98-4FF5-A931-70C459C7B6A3 (resized).jpeg

I of course don’t have any #6 3x8 screws to install the knocker.

Is #6 1/2 too long?

If not to the store I go!

Hold it up against what is it going into. Does it look like it will go through to the other side or not ?

LTG : )

A good cost efficient everyday playfield cleaner is called “210 plastic cleaner”. $14 a can and lasts a long time, spray onto an old T-shirt and cleans everything under the glass. No residue whatsoever. Waxing is a pain and doesn’t seem to do a whole lot more than what this spray does. I used to buy this stuff called Plexus but the price has gotten ridiculous. I use colored flipper bands as my dirt gauge and when they start to appear visibly dirty then just wipe everything in a few minutes.

The black “coil” dust that appears is mostly from the pivot bushings used in the flippers slings etc. They are made of very hard compressed graphite for the purpose of dry/self lubrication. Coil stops will shed down into the cabinet but looks more like glitter.

Way too long, use gold 3/8" screws in the backbox.

Use longer ones with 2 washers if thats all you got.

Where can I get saloon doors

Barts left arm seems to have a mind if it’s own and is pointing straight up in the air on start up or half way when other arm looms correct pointing at me. Should I loosen arm screw and adjust? I already tried pushing arm down to correct position. Thanks

Is it having a hard time finding its home position?

How does it work in test?

Could be a loose wire on the sensor.

Here ya go!

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7J7CTQCS3/cactus-canyon-pinball-saloon-doors?li=shops&optionId=237263206

Man...replacing all of the rubber on this pin with Titans was a pain. Was almost a complete playfield teardown. They didn't design these with maintenance in mind for sure! Took several hours (but includes time figuring out how to remove ramps and other parts. Godzilla was almost trivial to do, FF wasn't too bad ...would have been trivial too if not for 2 inconsequential post sleeves....but my OCD wouldn't allow them to remain black.

Oh, and I couldn't remove the beer mug rubbers....I couldn't get the little 1/4 lock nut off the bottom rod of the beer mug. The rod twists inside the beer mug, and I couldn't get enough traction on the rod to stop it from spinning. So...that stays black.

I installed anti-glare glass on my game last night. There are many vendors of it now, and all of them have their own slight tint, blue, purple, pink etc. Each has their own place depending on the colors on the playfield, purple tint is pretty good over all if you cant choose.

I chose invisiglass for this game. The green? tint to it is just perfect, it makes the colors POP !
https://www.pinballlife.com/invisiglass-non-glare-playfield-glass-standard.html

If you were on the fence about it, DO IT ! ! ! !

This glass solved ALL of my lighting complaints.

The VERY slight filtering takes all of the annoying harshness off the LED's.
One of my problems was reflection.

Not just backbox reflection, but reflection between the inside and outside surfaces of the glass causing a slightly skewed viewpoint.

Or maybe an underwater type of look due to the super bright LEDS?

The text on the inserts was unreadable and had a slight blur.

ALL OF THIS IS GONE ! ! ! !

Its like playing with the glass off and wearing VERY slightly filtered glasses tuned to the harshness of LEDs. All of the lighting is slightly softened? the most noticeable times are during the muti-ball displays. What was a seizure inducing mode is now enjoyable and exciting.

Invisiglass should have been an option when buying the game as it adds so much to it.

I have anti-glare glass on all of my games, but this installation seems to have the most noteworthy effect.

After playing CCr for a few days with the factory glass (which is very good quality), we are seeing a HUGE improvement and our scores have dramatically improved. It's so much easier to keep track of the ball.

Just BUY IT ! ! !!

Posting here in the hopes someone might be a magician and able to help. The nylon stop nut on the bottom of the beer mug rod on my game has stripped and come off (assuming from being hit repeatedly over time) and can not be screwed back on without falling back off after a few hits, which causes the beer mug to loudly hit the top glass whenever it is struck by the ball.

I have searched every inch of the service manual and can not find a part number or specifications on this nut anywhere. It is extremely small and is not something I've found readily available at any hardware store. (Also discovered an error on the playfield diagram numbering while trying to find this part).

By some miracle, does anyone happen to have a part number or specs for this nut? Thanks in advance!

You can probably slide the smallest size post rubber over the threads an it should hold.

Small vice grips is your friend.

2/56ths. I found them at Ace Hardware. Try a hobby shop if there is one in your area.

Hot glue or silicone will help for awhile. My game has a brass nut. Kept unscrewing, even with hot glue or Locktite. I finally soldered the little nut on. It's been behaving ever since.

On mine now is as follows : Beer Mug - Rod - below the playfield - Rod - rubber grommet - washer - brass nut.

LTG : )

Man I love Pinside. Less than 10 minutes and I've already got 2 answers. You guys rock! Mucho thanks LTG & fossmin !!

I don't have a CCR yet, but I put Inviglass on my MM Royal and it's great. So much easier on the eyes. No glare from the Backglass anymore. Now I just need to get a sheet for my MBR. The reflection from the backglass to the playfield glass is unbearable. It's too hard to follow the ball until it's too late.

Come to think of it....My GB needs it too....just wish this glass wasn't so expensive!!!!

Try Melissa at Coin taker! Voodoo Glass is amazing and she may cut you a deal on multiple sheets too.

Yes it’s either straight up in the air or to foward or back. I’ve tried to manually push in line with right arm and still winds up being to far back foward or up in the air. I haven’t done test in menu but I’ll try but not sure that’s going to correct it just tell me something. Where is the sensor and how do you fix

Is the arm loose?

Does it always do the same thing and always return to the same position?

Test mode could help, but it blows fuses on some games if done a lot.

Well I unexpectedly joined the club today! Hopefully I'll get it set up a bit later tonight.

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Try my settings (if you want) that I posted, let me know what you think!

I didnt put my pingulp on my game yet.

I need a spittoon styled one !

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8 more ratings needed to get the LE in the pinside top 100.

Try to be optimistic and truthful.

So when did CGC start added the mine cart to the tracks? I bought a mod because I thought it didn't come with one, but mine came with one out of the box that I just opened. It is number 318.

My LE came with the mine cart and tracks.

I think the regular versions have no tracks or mine cart.

OK, I thought neither had mine carts at some point. Maybe I was just mistaken.

Thanks

Probably skipped the pre-order and one came up near him and he bought it?

The electric cord plate cover came with no screws. Anyone know a size and length? Also, I can't hook up my topper, because there is no backbox key on either hook on the coin door. Can't believe I have to drill out a brand new lock

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Are the keys deep inside the game, under the cable hoses or in the deepest back wall corner?
Stuck under the speaker magnet?

I cant believe they fell of the hook...

It took me a monent to find mine as there were 2 hooks on the coin mechs.
Im easily fooled.

WTF, NO KEYS !?!?!?!?!?!

The screws look like 8-32 x 1.5 or 2"

Thank you Sir!!! That is exactly where they were in the back of the game under the wiring harness. Unbelievable! I can't see them coming off the hook. Seems highly unlikely. They must have just tossed them in the cabinet???

Don't drill it.

Two theft proof Torx screws hold the metal plate to the top of the backbox. Size 15 ( my driver says T15 )

Remove the screws, slide the metal plate/lock down and out. Unscrew the cam on the lock, remove the nut holding the lock on. Change the lock at your leisure.

I see you found the keys. I'll post this anyway in case someone loses the key.

LTG : )

Thanks for the tip LTG for future reference.

all this talk about Barts arms on the topper has me wondering what is the correct position or action. I say this because on my unit his arms are pointed all over the place. Not that I really mind to be honest but on my topper it looks to be kinda random.

Youre welcome!

The key hooks are sitting sideways when the game is on its end.

If the hooks are not tightly closed the keys can easily slide off.

I have found them in the cabinet before from old worn out bent hooks.

Its amazing what you can find in a game. Especially if it hasnt been vacuumed out for 30 years.

Lots of little places for stuff to hide out.

On my game the arms/guns are pointed straight down when I start a game.

Its important that they are correct as he points the gun at you during shoot out modes.

He even moves slightly when getting to draw. Its impressive when it works right.

How do they work in test? There IS a home position, they are not random.

Are they loose?

Mine were slightly loose when I set up my game. I tightened the arm screws 1/2 a turn each to firm them up.

thanks for the quick response. I know mine are not loose and I will need to check position tomorrow but pretty sure they are not in the down position at the start of the game. I will map the positions when I am back in front of the machine. pretty sure he has crazy arms haha.

Can you loosen them enough to rotate them freely? (they could be keyed to a set spot so don’t twist if they aren’t moving with gentle pressure) At the start of a game you would know the set point is supposed to be down in the “holstered” position. Place them there and tighten. From there see if they all look and function correctly the rest of the game. I cant imagine it takes much to orient them the right way. If they continue to move all over the place after that, then there could be more going on.

I had a TSPP up for sale and someone offered CCr as a trade. Wasn't really a game I was in the market for, but hey I figured I might as well go for it.

definitely crazy arms, this is what they are at the start of a game

ccr (resized).jpg

Send in a ticket or call them, that's not right.

I sent one in this morning and will see what happens.

For a game I never had any plans of picking up CCr has grown on me a lot very quickly. I'm loving it. Unfortunately mine is one with the over-crimped legs and has some decal damage there, I swapped the screws on the leg protectors out with hex head screws to keep it from getting worse. The beer glass was also totally missing the nut, so I grabbed a nut and rubber stopper from Ace to soften the blow. The first time that thing shot up and smacked the glass scared the shit out of me haha.