Thanks all!

I messed with mine the other night to try to fix the top right loop switch not counting marksman shots. I only read after the fact in the FAQ not to unplug the connector while powered. Nothing bad seems to have occurred but what is the risk? Shorting something?

I think I got the issue corrected and hot glued back down.

How do I:

reset the high scores

or reset to factory settings

Thanks!

Page 1-44 in the manual. Go into Utilities - U.3 High Scores reset - U.6 Factory Reset.

LTG : )

Thanks!

I keep getting "Check Switch 55 - Bottom Jet".
It's the lower ring on the left lower jet bumper.
I toggled that ring in switch test..works every time.
Somehow the error went away after more play but 2 weeks later the same error came back.

Anyone else having a Switch 55 error credit dot at power up?
I'm sure I am hitting those two pop bumpers enough so I would think this switch error is erronous.

I think I have finished the preliminary "dialing in" of my game.

7 degrees pitch.

Outlane posts in the center. I went from fully opened to removing them altogether, then back to the center position.

Gunfights, quick draws: medium

3 ball game

4 Max extra balls as set as default.

Unlimited extra balls for ball in play. If that becomes a problem, Ill change it to one.
Sometimes you need to keep up the momentun on a great game, I dont want to spoil these times.

Ball save: I went from none to 8 seconds. Pinballgoddess complained that a quick draw on the plunge can instantly drain the ball if you shot a bad guy. I dont feel that you should be penalised for winning a shootout.

Shooting bad guys is an important part of the game.

On the plunge, if you get a quick draw, the complete interaction takes 7 to 8 seconds to drain the ball on a solid hit. You should get the ball back if it drains I think. Winning a shootout and losing the ball may be a part of risk/return, but I dont think it adds fun to the game.

So, its at 8 seconds for now.

4 bart bro's to get a star

5 hits for bionic bart

Extra ball for Special, but no memory to have it continue to the next ball.

1 extra ball for getting a single replay. None after that. The game is set on free play, credits are meaningless.

All of the other default settings seem sensible.

My current goal is to have a challenging game that you can "blow up" the score on a good game.

The default of 4 extra balls seems liberal, but having the built in extra ball opportunities adds fun and a sense of accomplishment. I think the default setting seems about right.

7 maximum balls for medium skilled players in a single game seems like a good amount for a home use game and I should see some good scores.

Set up this way, game times are varying between 5 and 12 mins, with the occasional 30 min game.
Short games ALWAYS lead to another game, so I thing its set up pretty close to what I want for now.

I heard that operators shoot for 77 to 90 second average ball times, but Im thinking 2 mins for a home game.

Please comment on your settings and conclusions!

I would think it needs a little tweaking. It isn't always working enough to not come up in error.

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. Clean the leaf blade contacts, a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed and pull the paper out. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

Clean the leaf blade contacts, a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed and pull the paper out.

LTG : )

Im adjusting the audio.

I increased the subwoofer EQ balance by 2 for a little more bass presence. 3 seemed too much to me.

I think that if a music vs call outs and effects adjustment tool would be really nice in the extended code.

I ordered the speaker panel magnet from over seas, I wont probably get it until July.

However, Im not sure I want it (as popular as it is) I like the way my game matches my AFMrLE with the shadowbox look.

It will probably be for sale at a discount...

There is an easy fix for this issue...

s-l400 (resized).jpg

LOL !

Yes, I could just add one to my AFMr....

This is how I solved the issue with my MMr. Putting it on tomorrow.

IMG_20230520_132810 (resized).jpg

Here you go.....

IMG_6867 (resized).jpeg

They compliment each other Tom, you should consider it!

Best to you and Marta!

Nick & Barbie

Magnets.jpg.pdf

What is the purpose of these plastic plates taped to the inside of the lockdown bar? My right side piece has fallen off every single time I remove the lockdown bar since day one.

IMG_2905 (resized).jpeg

To keep the lockdown bar from scratching the side rails in game play.

Stick it back on. Tape, glue, etc.

LTG : )

My cabinet must be too wide. With those on the lockdown bar, it’s a struggle just to stretch the lockdown bar over the cabinet left/right side armor pieces.

Still no word back from CGC.

They do look great!

Now you've got me thinking about it lol.

My lockdown bar sorta "snaps" on, but its not super tight, kinda firm on the sides though.

Is possible that you should pull off one siderail, move the glass channel over and be done with it.

The glass channel does NOT have to be fitted into the slot.

You can trim off the flange and set the channel in place with 6 #4 x 1/2" flat head wood screws.

You only have to move it 1/8".

No one would ever see the repair.

That sounds like a tough trimming job to get it perfectly flush.

If I moved a channel over, I wouldn’t want it extending past the chamfer on the edge of the cabinet for cosmetic reasons. So, I wouldn’t gain much glass support, maybe 1/16 of an inch?

Why after paying $10,000 and being given a 2 year warranty should anyone have to make a bush fix adjustment to their nib machine? CGC needs to step up, contact the owner, and fix it the right way. Cut them new glass is the easiest solution, but a wow would be a new cabinet.

Its not terrible, you can sand it flush with a sanding block after trimming it with a razor cutter.

If you can get it to move 3/32" the glass would stay on.

From your pictures it looks like the glass is right on the edge of the plastic glass channel.

This is what I would do.

At least while waiting for a new lower cabinet.

This is just for the moment to get the game playing correctly.

Im confident that CGC will ultimately sort this out.

How's everyone holding up? I've had mine on route a year and a half just about and it's starting to need some attention.

Just had to replace the right flipper coil cause the flipper hold wasn't working. Had some drop target issues earlier before that with the bad guy on the left furthest side. He had to be replaced too.

A couple of loose connectors once in awhile (I think I'm going to hot glue all of them so they can't back off) and a button that had to be replaced after someone spilled a beer on the side of the cabinet.

IMG-0080 (resized).jpg

In my arcade so far has been normal cleaning.

LTG : )

How many plays? How’s the playfield looking?

Just finished a great movie, "The man who saved pinball". In my humble opinion. It should be required viewing to be a member on Pinside. If that movie doesn't make you happy nothing will. I highly recommend it.

The man who saved pinball (resized).jpg

This is a best case scenario pic of trying to get the lockdown bar back on the game. You can see the interference fit from the plastic protectors. I have to pry the lockdown bar out a little on either side to squeeze in over into position.
IMG_2924 (resized).jpeg

I’ll snap a picture of the audits next visit. It’s getting 500-600 plays a month. Its very popular. I clean and wax it every month usually. The right flipper coil I just replaced was still working just had a problem with the hold function. The wire wasn’t making good contact somehow. The coil stop was hammered and the coil sleeve became one with it. My GZ pro has got new coil stops too. They
get hammered.
playfield looks good still. I did skip a month and I had to scrub out the black dust or whatever from the front of the center drain around the sheriff guy. The metal ramps are showing a little wear. I think we have replaced all the balls twice now.
Haven’t got to any mods except the Flynn alternative translite which I think is way better. I showed the Chicago Gaming guy a picture of the audits last year at the Tacoma pin show and he saw that translite and didn’t like it. Ha ha. He prefers the original he said.

Just an off topic observation. People post a marketplace ad to sell ONE of their machines but always seem to slip in a couple “flex” pics of their entire lineup filled with LE’s and CE’s etc..

Anyone else see this trend??

I noticed today that the ball was not exiting my train track ramp down thru the metal hole on the left. Instead it was actually bypassing the hole and “jumping the tracks”, but actually landing right where it was supposed to. 100% jumping off the rails. Had to watch it a few times just to see what was going on.

Does anyone else have this mod? The ball was clipping the barrel on the mod and jumping off the ramp. I have the Train Stop mod taped down as flush as possible to front of the original metal piece. I had to tweak the metal pretty hard to get the ball to completely clear the barrel and exit the ramp as intended.

IMG_2925 (resized).jpeg

Im having a ball hang once in awhile underneath Bart, before it goes to the VUK popper.

Ball search clears it by actuating the popper plunger.

But its annoying.

I havent pulled it apart to look at it yet, but I can see the ball sitting in the lower right corner of the mech, when viewing it from above, through the opening.

It looks like its sitting against the popper cap and not going over onto it.

We played quite a few games of CCr last night.

I'm SOLD on my settings I posted above (further back in this thread), post 12357, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/248#post-7588600

A long game DID happen with 4 extra balls, but HIGH NOON was not achieved!

4 Bart Bros seems perfect instead of 3.

Collecting Bionic Bart with 5 hits was incredibly challenging, FUN, and achieved.

This was absolutely PERFECT ! The game was amazing!

It would be great if someone could "mirror" my settings and see what you think.

Please post any adjustments that you might think I missed and your thoughts on this.

Over the weekend I had ball hangs in this exact spot over 10 times. Especially during multiball where it's an advantage during 2 balls to get jackpots. It looks like if the metal was bent inward a little it would help, but I don't want to bend the metal. I may 3D print something that grips onto the metal to prevent ball hangs this week. If I do, I'll post a pic. Someone must have a good design idea for this?

If I get a chance tonight, Ill look at it a try to figure out an easy solution.

My invisiglass just arrived !

So, Ill have the game apart to make adjustments etc.

I really need to wax it...but we are playing the crap out of it!

No need to remove the barrel! When I installed my Mezel mods I dry ran the ball and it DID bump into the barrel. The mod mounts to a tin metal angle. All I did was with my hand realign the tb to clear better. Once I did that no problem at all.

Have people been waxing their playfields? My impression was that the factory coating kind of precluded the need for waxing. I've just been doing basic cleaning on the playfield and ramps with novus 1 and a microfiber cloth. I'm at over 2,000 plays. I've changed the balls out a couple of times. Anything else I should be doing?

Also, to update, I got those higher tension Ghostbusters springs and while the LC drop target doesn't drop on 100% of bricks, I have noticed an improvement.

LTG any quick advice before I get home to look at it?

Pinballgoddess has a FIT if the ball hang kills her momentum.

The factory coating, or clear coat, will last very many games before it needs to be buffed out.

Its not a magical material, its automotive clear coat.

This "paint" is not designed for rolling heavy steel balls over it. However it does indeed work very well.

Applying Wax over this paint (as recommended by auto manufacturers) will increase the life "dramatically" of the shine and appearance.

On a pinball machine the wax will keep black dust from grinding into the clear coat and help to keep the clear coat from getting hazy.

The "black dust" that appears, is mostly finely ground metal filings from the coil stops wearing. Its very abrasive.

Once applied the wax will trap dirt and can be removed with a light rub-down of Naptha, then re-applied.

In all cases its better to "wear out the wax" (which can be easily renewed) than wear the clear coat.

It takes quite a bit of effort to re-new the original appearance of automotive clear, using rubbing compounds and power buffers.

They must have change it to easier than when mine was shipped. Mine was shipped with the outlanes all the way open. 3 balls, limited saves. I set the level bubble as suggested in the manual.

I didn't beat the game until I moved the outlanes to halfway and set it to five balls. Then I went on vacation. Now that I'm back I'll win it a few more times and go back to three balls.

IMHO Outlanes at half way are open enough that the ball drains if you aren't paying attention. If you are paying attention, you can usually nudge the ball safe. Keeps me on my toes.

When should this be done? I've been playing mine unwaxed. (home user)

I do the same and have no issues. I have 15+ year old games I bought NIB and never had an issue with not waxing.

Thanks for the info. Is there a particular product you recommend? And about how often do you remove and re-wax?

I wax every 450 games.

I strip and re-wax every 900 games.

I change the balls out every 450 games (when I wax) or sooner if they look dull, they start to look like golf balls after about 600 games. This is way too long.

Blitz 1000 grand or P21S silver can it what I use.

Applied sparingly so that the amount applied looks like fingerprints on glass, no more.

You can NOT build coats of wax, the wax has a solvent in it to remove old wax during each application.

It all amounts to how many games played and how new you want the game to look.

Ive seen a lot of HUO games that were never waxed. If they were never played they look new. If they were played a lot, they have a hazy "not new" look to them. Its a pain the buff out hazy clear and often it has to be sanded to get the finish back.

To keep it looking new, I wouldnt go more than 450 plays before waxing and changing out the balls.

450 is a long time, 350 is way better.

People spend $25000 on custom paint for a car. The Car builder specifically calls for Wax to keep the finish "like new", still people balk at waxing.

For what it’s worth, I use Mothers pure carnauba wax on all my EMs. Figure I’ll use it on CCR, too.

Its a good wax. Its mostly solvent though.

Good wax is more expensive as it has more wax in it and less solvent and soft wax additives like beeswax.

Blitz and P21S are "hard waxes in the cans.

I like them because I can put the minimun amount on the applicator and know that its wax and not solvent.

This minimal approach leaves WAY less white dust.

Mothers pure carnuba is also available as 100% carnuba hard wax in a can.