Quoted from jfh:Wonder how many are flippers as opposed to those that really wanted the game but are frustrated by the wait.
Flippers are ruining the hobby
Quoted from jfh:Wonder how many are flippers as opposed to those that really wanted the game but are frustrated by the wait.
Flippers are ruining the hobby
Quoted from V8haha:This is getting ridiculous! They took full payment… send us the game now and topper later. Sure you will have an extra $40 expenses in shipping but show a little respect to your customers!
Any distributor that took full payment should give the money back. Can anyone think of a justifiable reason why they should not? I would be livid.
Quoted from MooButt:Flippers are ruining the hobby
If I have my history correct, the first generation of pinball machines didn't have flippers!
I'm fine with the delay if it's to have the machine function out of the box and not fail in 30, 60 ,90 days. What sucks is the lack of communications, there's just no excuse for CGC not communicating with their distributors so they can communicate to their customers.
Quoted from V8haha:This is getting ridiculous! They took full payment… send us the game now and topper later. Sure you will have an extra $40 expenses in shipping but show a little respect to your customers!
Exactly. The reasoning that is documented here makes sense for sure....but a year later its time for an updated plan. Send the game now and topper later. Not everyone will be using the topper anyway (low ceilings) so for sure it can be removed.
Quoted from sizzler747:Did he specify what part?
He was picking up another game from his distributor. He asked the question of when we will see cactus Canyon and the distributor stated it will definitely be next year. The reason in his words, “something that seemed very small and shouldn’t create that much of a delay But it was Ryan’s call”and he wanted it totally redesigned. I asked him what part and he said “think guide rail small”. Obviously it’s not a guide rail so probably something instrumental and making the machine work 100% of the time all the time. The only icing on the cake here for the way is they are really looking to get stuff right. I know waiting hasn’t been fun
If the news of further delays is true then why are we hearing this second hand? You mean to tell me that Ryan (CGC) tells a random customer (no disrespect) of the delays yet CGC doesn't feel the need to tell its distribution network? I find it hard to believe that CGC wouldn't officially communicate delays to PPS let alone all the distributors.
Quoted from PtownPin:I find it hard to believe that CGC wouldn't officially communicate delays to PPS let alone all the distributors.
I don't. Bad communication is their MO...
Quoted from explosiveegg:I don't. Bad communication is their MO...
True, but distributors like PPS actually requested full payment from customers so u would think they would be told of the delay? PPS is on this forum so maybe they can comment?
PPS has done nothing wrong i think their just getting conflicting info from CGC.
Game now topper later these machines have fantastic margins they can afford a small expense like this.
If it’s true that we will have to wait till 2023 then i need to buy another game in the meantime to fill a slot on route.
Quoted from V8haha:PPS has done nothing wrong i think their just getting conflicting info from CGC.
Game now topper later these machines have fantastic margins they can afford a small expense like this.
If it’s true that we will have to wait till 2023 then i need to buy another game in the meantime to fill a slot on route.
I'm NOT suggesting PPS has done anything wrong. I'm just surprised CGC would tell something as big as another delay to a random customer versus actually telling their licensing partner.
We have not heard anything ... in the meantime will be more productive by giving more time to play with our German Shepherd vs pinside ... lol
Quoted from PPS:We have not heard anything ... in the meantime will be more productive by giving more time to play with our German Shepherd vs pinside ... lol
WOW....and I don't blame u
Advice: Next contract that gets signed for a CGC remake. Put in the contract: Must clearly communicate early and often.
Quoted from PtownPin:If the news of further delays is true then why are we hearing this second hand? You mean to tell me that Ryan (CGC) tells a random customer (no disrespect) of the delays yet CGC doesn't feel the need to tell its distribution network? I find it hard to believe that CGC wouldn't officially communicate delays to PPS let alone all the distributors.
It came from a distributor not Ryan
Quoted from BorgDog:dig into the parts bins, different design knocker, but same coil. wire it up easy enough
[quoted image]
went into menus and ran into this. shows different connector and 'not used'. there is a setting to turn off knocker sound though.
[quoted image]
I may reach out to Ryan and see what's up.
After chillme confirmed there was no diode on the knocker coil in their MMR I plugged my knocker back in and set the replay level to a low value, played a game and it works! loud noise surprised me actually, even though I was expecting it. I did confirm that I had the knocker sound turned off.
I can still find no reference to it in coil tests other than the one I showed on a different connector, but it appears the code is in there somewhere for it to just work. Needless to say, I don't see a way to turn the knocker off other than unplugging it if you wanted to play quieter at night or something.
This was literally a 15 minute install and that included soldering the wires to the knocker, running them neatly through the head and securing, and putting the connector on the wires. If you got a kit where all you had to do was screw the knocker to the cab run the wire and plug it in you could be done in 5 minutes. I knew there was a reason I hoard parts and connectors and stuff.
Quoted from Yesh23:It came from a distributor not Ryan
Oh gotcha...thanks for the clarification....still a little surprising that PPS wasn't given the same information
Quoted from PtownPin:Oh gotcha...thanks for the clarification....still a little surprising that PPS wasn't given the same information
Not really. This is a third hand report without confirmation by the distributor in question. Interesting, maybe true, but not enough to do anything with.
Quoted from MooButt:Flippers are ruining the hobby
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-us-your-flipperless-pinball-machines
Quoted from jfh:Not really. This is a third hand report without confirmation by the distributor in question. Interesting, maybe true, but not enough to do anything with.
Well if its TRUE than YES its surprising that PPS wasn't notified. Since they replied that they have NOT then maybe theres no validity to the rumor (I have no idea). This is exactly the problem with CGC. Information is always relayed via random comments on live streams, rumors, and third hand information....they need to control the narrative versus letting the rumor mill run wild.
Quoted from PPS:We have not heard anything ... in the meantime will be more productive by giving more time to play with our German Shepherd vs pinside ... lol
Agreed
C7A77D66-BF7D-4D64-9760-00C7CD94E000 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ivanhoe:In the interim CGC will be subject to funny jokes and memes about this whole situation…its human nature to want to find a way to laugh at all this.
Knocker hooked up and working !! Thanks for the great posts on this . I actually have a AFMR right next to my CCR and saw the knocker connector and how it was hooked up. No diode on 23-800 coil and the holes were already there to mount the knocker on the cabinet and lined up perfectly !! Only thing I couldn't find here in the shop was the steel plate that mounts above the knocker. Knocker works in test mode and game play. Hope this helps
Quoted from cjpins:Knocker hooked up and working !! Thanks for the great posts on this . I actually have a AFMR right next to my CCR and saw the knocker connector and how it was hooked up. No diode on 23-800 coil and the holes were already there to mount the knocker on the cabinet and lined up perfectly !! Only thing I couldn't find here in the shop was the steel plate that mounts above the knocker. Knocker works in test mode and game play. Hope this helps
Where in test mode?
edit: nevermind, I just went and tested, the one I posted the photo of actually does fire the knocker even though it lists a different connector. weird
Quoted from Yesh23:it was Ryan’s call, he wanted it totally redesigned. Probably something instrumental and making the machine work 100% of the time
Quoted from PtownPin:If the news of further delays is true then why are we hearing this second hand?
I’m preeeeeeetty sure..... lol
1BCB5AB1-1A51-4A1A-AAF8-3BEAA7AB11E8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Ballderdash:[quoted image]
OMG!!!! I LAUGHED SO HARD! I WAS HEARING JIM CAREYS VOICE WHILE READING IT!!! Great post.
Quoted from jchristian11:You nailed it, he actually said he sees this as a long term positive…unreal.
Imagine how good this game is gonnna be if we wait 2 more years! Wow!
I didn’t see a bug list in the FAQ… so I’ll start one…
If any of these are not bugs but just me misunderstanding the rules, pls let me know.
CCR SE
Bad guy lights sometimes aren’t lit when they ought to be.(intermittent)
After showdown, Bart not lit or responsive. This is before reaching Bionic Bart mode. First time I noticed it, reached showdown maybe two or three times so far.
Has there been any update to the new code dropping yet? I know i saw a post a week back or so that there was a tease photo but not sure if any more update.
Quoted from BorgDog:After chillme confirmed there was no diode on the knocker coil in their MMR I plugged my knocker back in and set the replay level to a low value, played a game and it works! loud noise surprised me actually, even though I was expecting it. I did confirm that I had the knocker sound turned off.
I can still find no reference to it in coil tests other than the one I showed on a different connector, but it appears the code is in there somewhere for it to just work. Needless to say, I don't see a way to turn the knocker off other than unplugging it if you wanted to play quieter at night or something.
This was literally a 15 minute install and that included soldering the wires to the knocker, running them neatly through the head and securing, and putting the connector on the wires. If you got a kit where all you had to do was screw the knocker to the cab run the wire and plug it in you could be done in 5 minutes. I knew there was a reason I hoard parts and connectors and stuff.
J116 Pin 8 and the knocker connector (J115 pin 1) are the same output - put a meter on them and they ring out
(Same as the 50V line - J116 Pin 11/12 and Knocker J115 Pin 2 are all tied together
So, it is a redundant connection. I suppose the separate knocker connector is a lot easier to add after the fact!
pf
Quoted from cjpins:Knocker hooked up and working !!
Did a "double take", I thought it read "Hooker knocked up"....
Quoted from spidey:Imagine how good this game is gonnna be if we wait 2 more years! Wow!
It’s gonna be amazing…
Quoted from Bublehead:At what point do we declassify CGC as a professional pinball manufacturer and re-list them as hobbyists? Because, even though as a satisfied MBrLE NIB owner, I thought my 7 month wait was unprofessional, but >12 months?!?! You guys must be saints…
Almost two years for my MMRLE although many gave them a hall pass because it was their first game....
So I just finished unboxing and setting up my CCR SE, but I'm having an issue.
It powers up fine and there are lights on the playfield and the LCD screen works fine, but there are no lights on the backbox, no sound, and it appears that none of the coils or solenoids are working.
Start button will add a player although there is no light on the button and no ball is ejected.
Train and mine work fine during the intial start up test and in test mode, but nothing else is working.
I have checked and rechecked all connections, reseated most of them, and checked all the fuses that I can find and I am having no luck.
Any input would be appreciated!
Quoted from Mistwalker:Any input would be appreciated!
The ethernet cable from the board under the playfield that runs to a board in the backbox, unplug it and plug it back in, both ends.
See page 1-50 in the manual. With the game turned on and the high power interlock switch on the coin door pulled out. Check the LEDs, especially the 12 volt one on each board. See what is not lit, or missing.
LTG : )
This is my first game with a plastic backglass. Do they typically rattle as the game is played? Is that ok or do I need to install some foam or something?
Quoted from undrdog:This is my first game with a plastic backglass. Do they typically rattle as the game is played? Is that ok or do I need to install some foam or something?
If the translite itself is rattling, take the plastic strips off, reseat it flat against the glass and replace the strips.
If it’s the assembly itself typically nothing to worry about if it’s not bothering you. Foam strips will help if it is annoying. I’d make sure the lift is properly set in the backbox first though.
Quoted from LTG:The ethernet cable from the board under the playfield that runs to a board in the backbox, unplug it and plug it back in, both ends.
See page 1-50 in the manual. With the game turned on and the high power interlock switch on the coin door pulled out. Check the LEDs, especially the 12 volt one on each board. See what is not lit, or missing.
LTG : )
Thanks for the quick reply!
Here are the lights that are on/off
CR 10. Solid Red (Normally off)
CR 9. Flashing Yellow
CR 105 off
CR 104 off
CR 108 off
Playfield board
CR5 off before disconnecting/reconnecting blue ethernet cable, now it is on.
Game is behaving the same way still.
Quoted from cjpins:Knocker hooked up and working !! Thanks for the great posts on this
Anyone interested in making a "knocker kit" for those of us less mechanically inclined so that there's a plug-and-play option? Just figured I'd ask the question...
Quoted from Mistwalker:Thanks for the quick reply!
Here are the lights that are on/off
CR 10. Solid Red (Normally off)
CR 9. Flashing Yellow
CR 105 off
CR 104 off
CR 108 off
Playfield board
CR5 off before disconnecting/reconnecting blue ethernet cable, now it is on.
Game is behaving the same way still.
Check the ethernet cable going to the solenoid board.
If solenoid board is hooked up correctly, it will have one LED blinking slowly and 1 blinking quickly (I think!)
Quoted from Mistwalker:Game is behaving the same way still.
Check voltage outputs on switching power supply on the floor of the cabinet, front right side. Careful of the 110 VAC ones.
LTG : )
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Anyone interested in making a "knocker kit" for those of us less mechanically inclined so that there's a plug-and-play option? Just figured I'd ask the question...
This should work, although I'm not sure the cable is long enough to run it the way CGC does, might just have to dangle. Maybe you could reach out to Pinball Life and see if they would make/market a kit for CGC games.
https://www.pinballlife.com/knocker-kit-for-spooky-pinball.html
Quoted from BorgDog:This should work, although I'm not sure the cable is long enough to run it the way CGC does, might just have to dangle. Maybe you could reach out to Pinball Life and see if they would make/market a kit for CGC games.
https://www.pinballlife.com/knocker-kit-for-spooky-pinball.html
Appreciate the recommendation--I'll check it out.
Quoted from undrdog:This is my first game with a plastic backglass. Do they typically rattle as the game is played? Is that ok or do I need to install some foam or something?
The back glass is plastic/Perspex?
Quoted from undrdog:This is my first game with a plastic backglass.
It's thin tempered glass with a plastic translite.
Quoted from cooked71:The back glass is plastic/Perspex?
It's glass.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:It's glass.
LTG : )
Then it doesn’t need to be shaking like that. Seems to be in place. Is there a trick to getting it in right?
Quoted from undrdog:Then it doesn’t need to be shaking like that. Seems to be in place. Is there a trick to getting it in right?
Pinball life has friction tape that you can apply in a couple 2" strips at the corner edges, top or bottom, to kill the shaking.
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