Does CCr use the same Beagleboard black attached to pinball controller board? Looks like there are speaker outs on the pinball controller board. The BB doesn't have an audio port (for speakers), it sends audio to the controller board which is connected to the speakers at J6. Looks like the coindoor has volume up/down so the volume perhaps is set too low in the software. I would think everyone would have this issue with low volume since they all use the same image/version of code. Maybe people increase the coin door volume when they get the game but this will add hiss/distortion no doubt if the levels are too low to begin with. Nice that CC provides manuals (thought CCr is missing)

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/AFM_MANUAL_REV_1.5.pdf
page 104

same setup on MBr
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
page 78

JP3 jumper position. Speakers are connected through the bottom right connector.

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sorry guys had to .....

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I wonder if it would be worth cutting the cable tie and separating the speaker wires from the harness ?

LTG : )

Agreed. Speaker wire should be run at 90° to any electrical signal wire (not parallel). Could introduce interference. However, a low volume situation like this screams preamp problem.

For those with the sound issues - try messing with the balance between the subwoofer and the cabinet speakers in the audio menu settings a bit, and then adjust the volume from there - I was able to get mine to have a decent clarity/volume mix after the adjustment. The music is a bit quieter than I’d prefer but at least the distortion and muddy sound is gone. The actual balance settings likely vary based on your environment, audio perception and personal preferences.

I don’t believe I misinterpreted what you said in any way, please explain.

I’ll check these out tomorrow. Would you mind sharing your settings?

I've been experiencing the same thing with the skill shot. It will immediately register a skill shot award rather than registering the roulette spins. There is a sensor on the ramp below the lasso funnel that I believe locks in the skill shot roulette result. I'm not sure why it would be triggering prematurely though.

Unfortunately you have to pull 2 ramps to get to it. Not sure if it’s wired NO or NC. The premature trigger leads me to believe it’s NC and goes “open” when the ball passes by. In that scenario it would make sense if you had a cold or cracked solder joint.

I had this problem a few weeks back. I believe it was LTG that suggested putting the game in switch test and pound on the playfield. If a switch registers, as mine did, you’ll find the culprit. Thankfully it was a sensor on the left ramp. I didn’t have to remove anything. Simply reseated the plug into the board responsible for the left ramp.

I’m sure LTG’s advice was more concise and detailed than mine. Bottom line, try the switch test idea before you start removing ramps and the like. It worked for me.

The skillshot issue on my game is definitely related to the switch. Put it in switch test and wiggled that right lower ramp side to side and the switch was changing state like crazy. Took a pencil and just pushed the wires forward a little bit. Now I can’t get the switch to change state while wiggling the ramp. Played several test games and the anomaly has not recurred. Not sure why that helped, but it did.

Checked sound adjustments and it appears that you only have volume and sub to tweeter fade. I gave it a little less bass but the volume is still much lower than MMr, AFMr. If I put all 3 on 8, I can barely hear CCr. I understand that these have different hardware. What do other owners have their volume set to? To make it sound like MMr, AFMr volume level I need to be on 21. Is this just the way it is? Or is this a problem?

You can easily remove that sensor, unscrew from above and pull out the side with play field on service rails. I resoldered mine, one wire was barely on, and have not had the issue since.

When I put it on 10, it's pretty loud. I turn it down to like 6 if I'm playing alone

It sounded to me that he was mocking your "slander" comment a few posts earlier.

That sounds correct. Lloyd said a while back in the thread his volume number level is pretty much the same as his other remakes.

FWIW the TAS5760M chip pictured below is a Texas Instruments Class D amplifier with on board digital volume control and digital to analog converter. The round 330uf 25v capacitors lined up in a symmetrical fashion are part of the analog amplifier stage that outputs to the speakers. Reading the spec page on the TI chip I would have to guess that it’s either receiving a low input voltage to one of its internal power supply circuitry pins (AVDD,DVDD,PVDD) or otherwise operating outside of its nominal supply voltage of 4.5 to 24VDC. There is also an interesting pin that handles speaker faults and reads “Speaker amplifier fault terminal, which is pulled LOW when an internal fault occurs”. Not sure if that has anything to do with amplifier reducing its voltage and requiring a higher volume number. The fact that the volume control buttons work at all to adjust levels up and down leads me to believe the digital amplifier is working but somehow the output is weaker than it should be. Bad/weak signal into the chip? Internal digital amp outside of nominal spec? Analog output stage non functioning and only relying on onboard TI chip’s digital amplifier (therefore underpowered speakers)? FYI, I only know enough to be dangerous. Take with plenty of salt.

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Light reading TI links:
https://www.ti.com/product/TAS5760M

https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tas5760m.pdf?ts=1663233073496

And heck, since it works for all the other switch errors... why not try reseating the J6 connector? Ha. Couldn’t hurt.

Anyone heard if the LE's will start shipping in 2 weeks?

Damn Ballderdash, I was writing the exact same post and you beat me to it, said the noob that has zero clue what the hell you’re talking about…..

Lol. Thanks. Basically I think there’s a hardware flaw on these and unless someone at Texas Instruments can get real creative I don’t know that there’s a work around. The engineers at CGC are going to have to look into what I described above but since it’s an off the shelf chip and not CGC proprietary code, they will have to get testing and input from TI which I’m guessing has told CGC to “get in line behind everyone else”, hence the long wait for a response to CCr customers. But again, IDK. I was bored.

I have reseat the J6 connector and inspected the pins. Everything looks normal. It would be nice to get a new main control board and swap it out to try and Easter egg my way out of this.

Have you tried unplugging and restarting the machine?!

Please fill out a ticket and one of our specialists will be with you shortly.

Lol. Sorry.

thanks for using some of your 'dangerous' knowledge and to map this audio section a bit out! To me, it seems like (and gathering what you have noted) that the preamp stage is the fault here..would be interesting to compare this board with another CGC remake (MB, MM, AfM) to see what kind of shortcuts (ok don't thow stones! maybe it's just a manufacture defect-CGC doesn't make these anyways) or mishaps went into CCr audio circuits vs the predessesors ..Remember the good 'ol days when you could swap roms and have a totally different game? lol.

Apologies for the dumb question or if it has previously been discussed, but is it possible that the speakers are wired out of phase on the affected machines?

Possible. But someone with the issue traced theirs back and said and it checked out. I’m with you that it could have a similar effect. Low volume and added muddiness. Probably not enough cancellation between speakers to require volume 20 instead of 6-8, but worth doing the due diligence to verify.

Defiantly possible
There was an issue on some of the early Alien machines that went out. Sound was quiet and muffled and it turned out one of the speakers and the subwoofer were reversed in the plug.

Maybe someone with good sound and someone with bad sound can post a picture of their speaker out plugs on the board and follow the wires to the L and R speakers and see if they match up.

oh, that would be 'too' easy of a fix..come on man..we need to keep sh*t difficult here!

If anyone is anywhere near me (knoxville, tn) and wants to bring their board over, I'll be happy to test it in my machine which works fine. At least that way, maybe we can narrow it down to being an issue on the board for sure.

FYI the mods I have made for the original CC also fit on the remake.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bubba-like-shiny-sliver-ball-cactus-canyon-club/page/3#post-6610485

I don't sell them myself, you order them at shapeways and either paint them yourself or get them painted by someone (in the other CC thread someone found someone on etsy I believe to paint them).

In the beginning I thought of selling and painting them myself or searching mod makers to do this, but as the quality is not guaranteed I did not follow this path, only at shapeways you can buy the 3D printed parts.

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yeah, these are cool..I was going to buy your set a week ago, but just had neck surgery..and spent too much on pinball stuff lately..I will order these, probably next month!

Can anyone provide a link to the Etsy shop that paints these?

CGC has made it clear that my new CCrSE cannot accommodate their upcoming interactive topper. So, I'm asking a designer to build me a non-interactive one. The question came up about about lighting it. Yeah, I could run a separate power line for it to an outlet, but I really want it to operate with the CCr on/off switch. I've done this before with a new Stern pin via an open USB port in the backbox: It could not have been easier. However, I looked into this backbox and found no such port. I could not determine: where I could tap in; what voltage I could use/spec; and if I had to go into the cab for a power source, where would be a good place to connect. Also wondering if this might void CGC warranty. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.

I can't help you on the connections, as this is my first NEW machine..the older B/W DE Sega etc machines were super easy to tap into GI or flashers, etc..BUT my reason for responding, is I'm doing the SAME THING; making a custom topper that will be animatronic cowboy, and my custom photoshopped image I just had printed (to be back lit)..I still have to make the topper box..but the design is already in place..it's going to be epic!

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Reach out to DumbAss ...
He was making a compatible board to have the MMR topper work with original MM ... would be a far stretch that he could achieve your topper issue...

What information do we have from CGC that tells us a topper off an LE or SE+ wont work on an SE if someone separates and sells theirs?

They could also have different code on the SE - VS SE+ and LE

I’m wondering the same thing. Any word on shipping?

I'm dreaming of a Cactus LE Christmas here down under,

Here's hoping

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Just talked to my Dist. on Fri. He said a few weeks for the L.e to be available.....can't wait !

Nice!

WTF Richard..... you haven't got your game and your happy for the LEs to ship?
your a saint !

guessing everyone outside the US will be waiting just as long as you for their LEs

Not a chance, I’ll pick mine up in the US if whatever this BS is isn’t sorted yet.

So 2 weeks (or so) for Production to start

Hope it’s true

Lol, I assume when the LEs ship this whole shipping decal thing will be sorted out at the same time!
Maybe not.

Richard