(Topic ID: 320126)

Cactus Canyon DBA settings needed!

By rue_

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by NicoVolta
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    #1 1 year ago

    Hi,
    After having to empty the coin box every two weeks on CC, I finally got a 12V DBA (Talo) for CC. The original number Chicago Gaming gave me is discontinued but I was assured by the distributor this is the correct replacement. Got it installed but I can't seem to program the setting correctly so I can get 1 credit per $1. Sounds simple enough but I've been at it over 2 hours in 2 different visits trying to make it work. If someone has a CC with a DBA could you tell me the settings so I can program mine the same?
    Thanks!

    #2 1 year ago

    Contact the distributor that did this and find out their settings.

    Should be plug and play, with possible exception of picking which chute to use, left - right, center - etc.

    LTG : )

    #3 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Contact the distributor that did this and find out their settings.
    Should be plug and play, with possible exception of picking which chute to use, left - right, center - etc.
    LTG : )

    Still waiting for them to call me. Feel like this stuff shouldn't be as difficult as it is. Plenty of machines go on route still. The only thing in the manual was something about setting the DBA to center or fourth because most DBA's have a short pulse or something. Like a sentence but half the manual is coin charts on how to setup the world's coins to work in the machine.

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    Hi,
    After having to empty the coin box every two weeks on CC, I finally got a 12V DBA (Talo) for CC. The original number Chicago Gaming gave me is discontinued but I was assured by the distributor this is the correct replacement. Got it installed but I can't seem to program the setting correctly so I can get 1 credit per $1. Sounds simple enough but I've been at it over 2 hours in 2 different visits trying to make it work. If someone has a CC with a DBA could you tell me the settings so I can program mine the same?
    Thanks!

    Would a lucky problem to have! I’d gladly trade places with you!

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    Would a lucky problem to have! I’d gladly trade places with you!

    It's nice but that's why I have to install a DBA on it. The coinbox is just too small.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    half the manual is coin charts on how to setup the world's coins to work in the machine.

    That is because the answer isn't in the game manual, it will be something with the bill validator. ( other than which coin chute to use, can vary from CGC game to game, what ever your pricing is set at for coins, should work with the DBV )

    Assuming for what ever reason there isn't an issue with the bill validator.

    LTG : )

    #7 1 year ago

    You might contact Talo too.

    LTG : )

    #8 1 year ago

    Huh, I didn't have any problems setting up the DBA on my CCr. It seemed about the same as doing DBAs on any of my other pins.

    Only trouble I ran into, was that in order to do 3 games for $2, I had to do custom pricing, since it wasn't one of the default pricing options. But it wasn't too hard to figure out.

    What is hanging you up? Sounds like maybe you need to change the pulse settings on the DBA itself. You can make a dollar bill do 1 pulse or 4, and you should be able to adjust the game settings to work either way.

    EDIT: What exactly happens right now when you feed a dollar through the DBA?

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from DakotaMike:

    Huh, I didn't have any problems setting up the DBA on my CCr. It seemed about the same as doing DBAs on any of my other pins.
    Only trouble I ran into, was that in order to do 3 games for $2, I had to do custom pricing, since it wasn't one of the default pricing options. But it wasn't too hard to figure out.
    What is hanging you up? Sounds like maybe you need to change the pulse settings on the DBA itself. You can make a dollar bill do 1 pulse or 4, and you should be able to adjust the game settings to work either way.

    He’s using a Talo which sounds like convoluted crap! Send it back to the distro and get an Mars

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    He’s using a Talo which sounds like convoluted crap! Send it back to the distro and get an Mars

    My 120v DBAs are Mars, but I've been using ICT DBAs for my 12v games, and haven't had any issues. The dip switch options are pretty much the same, and I haven't had any jams or issues so far. At least at the volume of bills I see in my location pins.

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    He’s using a Talo which sounds like convoluted crap! Send it back to the distro and get an Mars

    Mars no longer exists, so to speak.

    MARS became MEI which became TALO ( bill cartridges are interchangeable between them. So if it comes with a 500 count that won't fit in the game, get a 300 count one off of Ebay or somewhere so it will fit in the game)

    It's a good unit. No dip switches though. You need to mark a card and end it into the unit to change settings to your liking.

    LTG : )

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Mars no longer exists, so to speak.
    MARS became MEI which became TALO ( bill cartridges are interchangeable between them. So if it comes with a 500 count that won't fit in the game, get a 300 count one off of Ebay or somewhere so it will fit in the game)
    It's a good unit. No dip switches though. You need to mark a card and end it into the unit to change settings to your liking.
    LTG : )

    I use MARS/MEI interchangeably. When did they become TALO??? And get rid of the dip switches? Wtf.
    Terrible.

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    When did they become TALO???

    Recently.

    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    And get rid of the dip switches?

    A lot of their previous units had dip switches or you mark a card and send it in and do it that way.

    I don't have any like that yet. Going forward I'd prefer it. Take a card, mark it, send it in, push a button done. And if you have any preferences that are different from manufacturer to manufacturer, save the card and mark it Stern, jjp, CGC, what ever.

    LTG : )

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    I use MARS/MEI interchangeably. When did they become TALO??? And get rid of the dip switches? Wtf.
    Terrible.

    Ya it's like a scan tron. You fill it the bubbles with lead pencil then put it in the DBA like it's a dollar. It reads it and programs the setup. It's a solution for a problem that didn't exist. Dip switches work fine. I could get the older DBA's

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    Ya it's like a scan tron. You fill it the bubbles with lead pencil then put it in the DBA like it's a dollar. It reads it and programs the setup. It's a solution for a problem that didn't exist. Dip switches work fine. I could get the older DBA's cheap rebuilt. These I can't. The fact CG made them 12V pisses me off too. Great for CG as they can get UL certified quicker but it sucks for the end user that has to pay almost $400 for a DBA that isn't industry standard.

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    The fact CG made them 12V pisses me off too. Great for CG as they can get UL certified quicker but it sucks for the end user that has to pay almost $400 for a DBA that isn't industry standard.

    More

    Everybody has gone to 12V.

    Here is an option. Get 110VAC unit off of Ebay or where ever. Get a conversion harness off of Ebay or Suzo Happ. Harness plugs into service outlet. Two wires get soldered to a coin switch. Plug DBV into harness, done. If you don't want it on all the time the service outlet is on, hard wire it after the on/off switch into the game.

    New DBA's are always expensive. Old used ones or rebuilt ones aren't. I picked up some rebuilt ones off of Ebay for $130 each, they looked like new.

    LTG : )

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Everybody has gone to 12V.
    Here is an option. Get 110VAC unit off of Ebay or where ever. Get a conversion harness off of Ebay or Suzo Happ. Harness plugs into service outlet. Two wires get soldered to a coin switch. Plug DBV into harness, done. If you don't want it on all the time the service outlet is on, hard wire it after the on/off switch into the game.
    New DBA's are always expensive. Old used ones or rebuilt ones aren't. I picked up some rebuilt ones off of Ebay for $130 each, they looked like new.
    LTG : )

    I get it but there are no used or rebuilt 12V units on Ebay. Just new or high priced used. I looked for months on/off waiting for a deal. Finally just ordered a new one since it earns so well. I'm going to try again and run 4 pulses per $1 and see if that works. The distributor said call back if that doesn't work. I'm not sure if the other stuff is right,
    I have bill ways accepted at 2, $1 and $5 enabled, pulse width on gaming short, pulses per dollar at 1, interface mode on harness enabled, acceptance mode 0

    #18 1 year ago

    Finally heard from CG and they sent me a coupon with the spaces filled out. Hopefully that works. I'll let you know and upload a pic in case someone else has my issue in the future.

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    Finally heard from CG and they sent me a coupon with the spaces filled out. Hopefully that works.

    You're welcome. Fill in the spaces completely.

    LTG : )

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Everybody has gone to 12V.
    Here is an option. Get 110VAC unit off of Ebay or where ever. Get a conversion harness off of Ebay or Suzo Happ. Harness plugs into service outlet. Two wires get soldered to a coin switch. Plug DBV into harness, done. If you don't want it on all the time the service outlet is on, hard wire it after the on/off switch into the game.
    New DBA's are always expensive. Old used ones or rebuilt ones aren't. I picked up some rebuilt ones off of Ebay for $130 each, they looked like new.
    LTG : )

    Everyone except Stern, that is. They are still using high voltage for their bill validators. There’s a spot on the coin-door node board for a DBA, but as far as I was aware, Stern wasn't actually using it yet.

    It's certainly not wired to the DBA harness from the factory anyway. Do you know something I don't Lloyd? I've been waiting forever for Stern to finally move to 12v.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from DakotaMike:

    It's certainly not wired to the DBA harness from the factory anyway. Do you know something I don't Lloyd? I've been waiting forever for Stern to finally move to 12v.

    According to Pinside they used to provide a harness too hook a 110VAC to the power supply box in the head. So some of their Spike games are 12V or a way to make 110VAC work.

    LTG : )

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    According to Pinside they used to provide a harness too hook a 110VAC to the power supply box in the head. So some of their Spike games are 12V or a way to make 110VAC work.
    LTG : )

    Can confirm. I had to remove the high voltage cover in the back box, plug into that board, install the cover and run the harness to the coin box when I installed mine. So it's a little more work but the DBA's are everywhere in 120V. I actually paid $150 for a refurbished one for my new GZ pro. It works great. It was certainly easier to setup and get working. Like a 15 min job. I'm into this CC at least 2 hours and 2 trips to the location. It's 100 degrees outside and I'm not super thrilled today.

    #23 1 year ago

    I have a spare Pyramid Apex 7000 series 120V that is working like a champ that I was just about to list on Ebay. I have been getting 150 to 190 for previous listings(granted probably selling to operators that need up to 100 bill acceptance). If you want it for $100 + actual shipping let me know.

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    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from elcolonel:

    I have a spare Pyramid Apex 7000 series 120V that is working like a champ that I was just about to list on Ebay. I have been getting 150 to 190 for previous listings(granted probably selling to operators that need up to 100 bill acceptance). If you want it for $100 + actual shipping let me know.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Thanks but this is a 12V pin

    #25 1 year ago

    Okay not sure what the issue is. Went to the location. Plugged in the harness (I unplugged it so nobody would lose their money). The lights come on the front of the DBA. Cool. Pull off the magazine on the back. Use a straw to hit the button. It makes the noise like it’s cycling and the front lights blink fast continuously. Put magazine back. Insert programming coupon. It scans and pushes it back out. Lights flash on front fast then slow then off then once on then off completely. Won’t take any money after this. I have to either hit programming button again and start over or cycle power to it to make lights come back on. If I cycle power they flash the same and turn off completely.
    No idea why this is happening. Very frustrated. It's going back in the box tomorrow if I can't get it to work and I'm ordering a used dipswitch model DBA. These coupon programming DBA's are hot trash IMO.

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    Very frustrated.

    I am sorry about this.

    And I do wonder if you got a defective unit.

    LTG : )

    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from rue_:

    Okay not sure what the issue is. Went to the location. Plugged in the harness (I unplugged it so nobody would lose their money). The lights come on the front of the DBA. Cool. Pull off the magazine on the back. Use a straw to hit the button. It makes the noise like it’s cycling and the front lights blink fast continuously. Put magazine back. Insert programming coupon. It scans and pushes it back out. Lights flash on front fast then slow then off then once on then off completely. Won’t take any money after this. I have to either hit programming button again and start over or cycle power to it to make lights come back on. If I cycle power they flash the same and turn off completely.
    No idea why this is happening. Very frustrated. It's going back in the box tomorrow if I can't get it to work and I'm ordering a used dipswitch model DBA. These coupon programming DBA's are hot trash IMO.

    Yeah, this really sounds like an issue with your particular DBA unit. As there shouldn't really be anything magical or difficult about using a DBA on a CGC machine. At least not in my experience.

    Quoted from LTG:

    According to Pinside they used to provide a harness too hook a 110VAC to the power supply box in the head. So some of their Spike games are 12V or a way to make 110VAC work.
    LTG : )

    Correct. You have to get a cable from Stern/Distro/Marco in order to run high-voltage from the backbox to the DBA harness at the front of the game. As far as I know, that's still the only option for a Bill Validator on a Stern Spike game. Stern did this so that they didn't have to have any high voltage in the cabinet near the player. Easier safety certification, or so I'm told.

    Which is all the more reason for Stern to finally adopt the 12v DBA. Although, there are a lot of High-Voltage DBAs out there, so it's Pros and Cons really. What would really be great is if Stern wired their games for 12v, but still let you use the high voltage pass-through cable for legacy DBAs. Best of both worlds then.

    #28 1 year ago

    ebay.com link: itm

    If anybody wants to bid on the above referenced Bill acceptor.
    Good luck Op,you will get it pressed out, sorry you had a minor fiasco.

    6 months later
    #29 1 year ago

    Hey folks… I’ve got a CC Special Edition about to go on location with a working Mars 2451.

    Problem is, the rapid speed of the simulated coin pulses appear to be too fast for the game to recognize them.

    Shows up fine in switch test with the expected number of pulses, but they just don’t translate to credits.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    coin pulses appear to be too fast

    Dig around the Williams software, you should be able to pick a slower pulse in pricing adjustments. Also be sure the DBA is set for gaming and not vending.

    LTG : )

    #31 1 year ago

    Thanks LTG… is the DBA arcade/vending selection somewhere other than the dip switches?

    BTW, this is a CC by Chicago Gaming. Have opened a ticket regarding the pricing/pulse speed issue… will report back.

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    is the DBA arcade/vending selection somewhere other than the dip switches?

    If the DBV doesn't have it, then no.

    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    Have opened a ticket regarding the pricing/pulse speed issue

    I left it for the engineer.

    I had an issue with mine not giving the right credits. I tried a factory reset ( DON'T DO THAT ) which straightened things out. And made the train go the wrong direction. There is another menu I had to dig around in to fix that.

    See what CGC says.

    LTG : )

    1 week later
    #33 1 year ago

    I bailed on the Mars 2451 and bought a brand new ICT 12v A6-23SCP-USD4-II validator.

    693EA7E1-7347-449D-AC2A-E5BD27028787 (resized).jpeg693EA7E1-7347-449D-AC2A-E5BD27028787 (resized).jpeg

    Fits, plugs in, works, 300 bill capacity. Easy peasy. Should have done this from the start.

    I use these settings:

    67D267F3-A94C-4489-AAD4-24AD78C8A44C (resized).jpeg67D267F3-A94C-4489-AAD4-24AD78C8A44C (resized).jpeg
    5603D576-4764-444E-ABBE-A8912EE25277 (resized).jpeg5603D576-4764-444E-ABBE-A8912EE25277 (resized).jpeg
    4E63C375-767C-4337-AB35-5E1D0354B1D1 (resized).jpeg4E63C375-767C-4337-AB35-5E1D0354B1D1 (resized).jpeg
    10D7B3F1-A244-4A02-9BFC-286D43ADD0C4 (resized).jpeg10D7B3F1-A244-4A02-9BFC-286D43ADD0C4 (resized).jpeg

    And dip switches set to:

    #1 off
    #2 off
    #3 on (to reject $10 bills)
    #4 on (to reject $20 bills)
    #5 off
    #6 on
    #7 on
    #8 off

    and smaller bank:

    #1 off (one pulse/one dollar)
    #2 off (one pulse/one dollar)
    #3 off (50/50 pulse speed)
    #4 off (50/50 pulse speed)

    I block $10 and $20 because people might want change back at those higher denominations… obviously not happening, and that’s a lot of play.

    Furthermore would recommend setting max # of extra balls to 1. Otherwise the wizards will stack balls for hours.

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