(Topic ID: 292997)

Cabinet Spray paint issue

By Vin-bot

2 years ago


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    #1 2 years ago

    I have been running into all kinds of issues with spray painting my pinbot (using automotive acrylic paint) my cabinet.

    After having to sand back my black finish down to the primer, learning from my mistakes I really made sure the surface was clean and smooth.

    When painting I did not get enough coverage on parts of the cabinet. Therefore the top part of the cabinet is perfect and smooth, but the button half is feeling a bit rougher and when you look at an angle you can see the difference and can see the bottom half didn’t get enough paint.

    Can I fix this by spraying a new layer on the cabinet?

    I really hope someone can answer this because I desperately like to avoid having to sand the whole thing again if I don’t have too

    #2 2 years ago

    Can you post some pics so guys who do restorations can see what is going on.
    -Mike

    #3 2 years ago

    This is what it looks like.. the paint is quite shiny so with the bright light it looks like there is no coverage, but that’s just the reflection.

    A closer look does show some “specks” as well that I did not notice before. I can’t few them and as I said before I really made sure the surface was smooth and clean before painting

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    #4 2 years ago

    What is your painting technique? How far away are you spraying from the cabinet? How many coats and how much time in between?

    If you're too far away the solvent evaporates in the air and the paint won't level out nicely.

    #5 2 years ago

    Im spraying at 300-400 mm distance and spay from left to right.

    I spray all sides and then wait a minute and repeat the process once or twice

    #6 2 years ago

    Sounds like either you aren't sanding the primer, or you are using too coarse of grit.
    Apply 2 coats of primer, and lightly sand with #800. No coarser than that.
    Then apply 2 or 3 coats of color.

    #7 2 years ago

    I can’t tell for sure from the pictures, but are you getting fish eyes in the paint?

    I’d scuff the paint and apply a second coat. Often it’s best to spray a light coat first and then a final second for full coverage. From the pictures it looks like the paint didn’t fully bridge over surface grain in the wood. Second coat should eliminate that. If there is contamination like oils or silicone issue may still occur unless you use and additive like smoothie to break surface tension of the paint.

    #8 2 years ago

    Hard to tell from pics, does the paint spray and lay correctly and then the specks appear (fish eye) or is the spray pattern from the gun spotty?

    #9 2 years ago

    I’d say you are spraying too far away. Closer and enough paint for it to lay flat — but not too much of course to avoid runs.

    If you spray too far away paint dries in the air and you get the “dust” effect.

    #10 2 years ago

    Can't really tell from the pics but did u prime the Cab and sand with 800 grit ,which paint are u useing

    #11 2 years ago

    I get the best coat laying the cab horizontal. Spray one side at a time, let dry. Takes awhile but vertical surfaces tend to hold overspray ‘bits’ and thus gets into final finish.

    #12 2 years ago

    I used 400 grid paper (as advised by the paint shop), using acrylic automotive primer and topcoat. I sanded my primer layer to.
    I thought I might have been spraying too close.

    Can I sand with 800 grid and respray without having to prime again (providing I don’t sand all the way down to the ply)?
    Will it also help reducing airflow when spraying?

    #13 2 years ago

    Yes resand u might have too fill in any holes ,after sanding go over with a light that will show u any bad spots ,what is your air flow at ,I spray at only 40 too 50 lbs with a smaller spray gun

    #14 2 years ago

    Thanks for the info..

    Not sure what my airflow was. I used a CFM 15 compressor that I borrowed. I adjusted the airflow on my gun

    #15 2 years ago

    U can adjust on the compressor also ,I spray at 40 too 50 lbs but I have a small spray gun ,I have used bigger guns before but I find smaller one works the best

    1 week later
    #16 2 years ago

    Thanks for the advice guys..
    It was heaps of work, but I finally got the cabinet sprayed black and it looks great

    I read that it’s best to leave the cabin alone for a few days before starting the stencil work.. so I will start by giving it 4 days.

    I do have some further questions in regards to stencils (pinball pimp), that I could not find an answer to on this forum.

    1
    how long can I leave the stencil on before painting? Can I apply it the night before I paint or do I risk damaging the topcoat if I leave the stencil on to long?

    2
    I find that many people put the cabin on its side and spray the stencil from the top down (horizontal). Is this better in regards to spraying or stencil removal?

    If possible I would prefer to keep the cabin upright and apply my stencils to all 3 sides of the cabin and then spray 1 side, remove the stencil, followed by the other sides.

    3
    after spraying the first stencil, how long do I have to leave paint to dry/harden until I can start to apply the stencils for the second color of my artwork? I am using SPARTAN automotive finishes acrylic paint for all my paint work.

    #17 2 years ago
    Quoted from Vin-bot:

    Thanks for the advice guys..
    It was heaps of work, but I finally got the cabinet sprayed black and it looks great
    I read that it’s best to leave the cabin alone for a few days before starting the stencil work.. so I will start by giving it 4 days.
    I do have some further questions in regards to stencils (pinball pimp), that I could not find an answer to on this forum.
    1
    how long can I leave the stencil on before painting? Can I apply it the night before I paint or do I risk damaging the topcoat if I leave the stencil on to long?
    2
    I find that many people put the cabin on its side and spray the stencil from the top down (horizontal). Is this better in regards to spraying or stencil removal?
    If possible I would prefer to keep the cabin upright and apply my stencils to all 3 sides of the cabin and then spray 1 side, remove the stencil, followed by the other sides.
    3
    after spraying the first stencil, how long do I have to leave paint to dry/harden until I can start to apply the stencils for the second color of my artwork? I am using SPARTAN automotive finishes acrylic paint for all my paint work.

    1. You want to make sure your base coat is good and dry. If not you risk pulling some of it up when removing the stencil. If its good and dry, there is no reason you couldnt get it prepped the night before and paint in the morning.

    2. I like laying the cab on its side just so I dont risk getting runs but thats me. I use rattle cans so I like finishing one side, then move to the others. But it sounds like you are using a gun so it may be beneficial for you to spray all one color let it dry and then move to the next color.

    3. Give the paint some time to set up, half hour to an hour. But be careful, I have dropped the stencil before while removing it and it screwed up the paint. I have been giving it a couple hours lately and have even left over night and got it the next day with no issues.

    Again this is just how I do it but there are lots of ways to make the pin look great.

    Good luck Ryan

    #18 2 years ago

    I usually wait 2 to 3 days between basecoat and each stencil color. Just look at the back of the paint can and read the “Recoat times“ to see and then add an extra day. You don’t want to fuck up all the work you did just because you are in a hurry.

    I install the stencils and spray immediately, I do not stick them on a day before you spray. It is possible that if you let the stencil sit on the cabinet overnight that some of the fumes from the base paint could still be evaporating and loosen the adhesive on the back of the stencils and you might have a mess.

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