(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)


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    #18 8 years ago

    Dammit. Wish I had saw this before I did a rocking chair leg repair last weekend. That resin trick would have been perfect.

    Really looking forward to more posts to this guide. Especially general body work... fill/sand/feather process. There is a lot of technique in the gap between the "repair" and "refinish" stages that is hard to get right on your own. Even the best finish job on top of a poorly prepared piece will not look its best. I'm not happy with my process yet.

    3 years later
    #499 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    When you Google Kwik Poly, this is the first image that comes up:[quoted image]

    That’s probably what’s holding those teeth in

    2 years later
    #800 2 years ago

    I’d be afraid to put anything water-based on it, would worry sanding would open the grain and make it want to move around again when wet. My space station cab was planked like that but I just built a new one.

    #802 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    FWIW, Jeff Miller (Pinball Pimp Stencils) was the one who recommended Durham's. He said he uses it all the time as part of his cabinet painting process.
    I'm going to work on stripping the rest of the paint this weekend and then touch up some edges with wood epoxy. That'll give me more time to think about how to address the planking (Bondo, Durham's, Fix It All, or other). I picked up some Durham's today and practiced on some spare plywood with different mixing ratios for viscosity, from thicker putty for filling in holes to thinner glaze to smooth out scratches. Not too bad. It's more flexible than bondo in that way, and more importantly it does not set as quickly as bondo giving me more time to work. Within 20 minutes it was set hard and touchable. In under an hour, it was sandable. 4 hours later, hard as rock. At that 4 hour mark, I poured a little water on it and it did NOT soften up....still hard as a rock.

    Yeah I’ve used Durham's for years I’m just surprised you could use it on a moisture damaged piece, good to know. I used it to fix German Shepherd claw marks in my front door a month ago. Good stuff.

    #806 2 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Has anyone tried using a thin laminate to remove all grain from a project?

    What product? Would need to be something thick/rigid enough to bridge the gaps so that nothing would telegraph through. That’s why RadCals don’t need much prep.

    3 weeks later
    #815 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    The bondo is already smooth. Wouldn't the fiberglass resin just follow the high and low contours of the bondo and wind up with the same wavy-ness? Or are you suggesting to sand off the bondo entirely and start over? I'm happy with the bondo coverage and smoothness...there's got to be a technique, method, or tool to get it flat.

    Skim with a wide blade spreader so it spans gaps and deposits material in the low spots. A wide sanding blockwill also help.

    6 months later
    #858 2 years ago
    Quoted from jackd104:

    Any advice to fix this split in an otherwise gorgeous TSPP? I have never worked on cabinets, but this may be something simple I can start with. I am thinking a little wood glue and find a way to attach a clamp to apply the pressure till it dries. Thanks in advance for any tips on products or techniques. [quoted image][quoted image]

    Use a good wood glue (like Titebond) and clamp. Make sure you get enough glue in there to fully coat the wood surfaces. Use a wide clamp so it doesnt indent the wood or snap the lip off. If you don't have a wide-face clamp, put a scrap piece of 1-by between the cabinet and the clamp. As you tighten, wipe off the glue that squeezes out with a damp paper towel until its fully tight. You might want to take that one leg off to make sure you get the whole seam.

    If need long clamps, Bessey pipe clamps are good and cheap. You can never have enough clamps!

    1 year later
    #938 8 months ago
    Quoted from EvanDickson:

    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I'd probably just build a new head because I think it would be quicker. But, if I were repairing this, I would replace the back and then glue everything up nice and tight, finish according to instructions in this thread (resin bad corners, etc).

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