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Quoted from PinballAir:Does all of this polishing remove the original zinc plating?
Is the metal more susceptible to rust?
I have been replacing the removed zinc coating with clearco 99% galvenizing spray to protect them.
http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/other/np-silvercoat_spray.pdf
It keeps them from getting corroded again.
Welders use it to protect welds from rust/corrosion.
Quoted from hisokajp:Would something like this wokr as well?
amazon.com link »
Yes, I think any galvanizing compound rich in zinc would work.
I just happen to have a case of Clearco from my welding days.
Quoted from KenM:Bit of a newb question:
What is the best way to spot sand this flat and not scratch up the surrounding paint?
Tape then try to feather it?[quoted image]
Yep
Quoted from pincity:For my Monte Carlo, someone had drilled a hole in the cabinet for a credit switch that I plan to fill.
I would need to touch up the patch as well as some other light dings and scratches. What type of paint would be good? Initially I was thinking acrylic but wasn’t sure that would hold up so well - so perhaps an enamel would be better?
I don’t have an airbrush so this would be applied with a brush. Thanks!
Krylon rattle can is very close to the cheap paint they used originally.
Quoted from pincity:Thanks for the tip! The patch area has some green in addition to the black, and I read Krylon is an enamel, so I presume I would need another enamel type paint for the green, maybe testors?
In my research I also saw acrylic enamels and wondered if anyone had tried those on a cabinet?
Any acrylic enamel will work
Take a sample to lowes and have mixed
Quoted from Clnilsen:Did anyone ever do the leg bracket switch out on an older bally cabinet? I have a Playboy I'm restoring, and getting ready to do leg brackets. I was going to put the old ones it, but I have a set of the newer brackets as well. Do they just screw in the sides? which way do they orient? Any tips?
Just align the leg bolts.
Add washers or spacers if needed.
Quoted from hisokajp:Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?
I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.
I hate that primer. Its terrible.
It takes days to dry on wood.
Its ok on metal.
Kilz original is way better and dries faster.
Quoted from Lido:I wish I'd thought to do the slightest bit of reading before doing this quick and dirty re-glue on my Fish Tales today. Hope it holds, but I really hope I didn't make the cabinet worse so I can't do it properly when time allows.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thats pretty much it.
Glue, clamp and square up the cab. Fire in 2" brads where needed.
You can't beat the pony clamps and pipe from harbor freight.
Way better than straps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html
Quoted from dudah:My Midway Haunted House is missing some wood and veneer on the corner.
I already cut a new top piece I haven't secured in yet.
Thinking I could cut some plywood pieces outlined in red and glue in.
Then lay it on it's side and fill in the missing veneer with epoxy resin.
Thoughts?
I'm hesitant because it's a fairly large area (4"x4").
But I've never used the epoxy resin yet so wondering if this would be just fine.
Figured worst case I'd just cut out the bad and biscuit in a new corner.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Fiberglass it.
Quoted from alexmogil:I have sanded my cabinet with Kilz oil based primer and it felt great, found some imperfections, filled, sanded, re-primered and then sanded again to 400. I am ready to paint - I have airgunned off the major primer dust from sanding, but what's the best method of getting rid of a majority of the primer dust before the tack cloth? The dust is dense enough that it would clog the tack cloth in no time, but I'm afraid of gouges from a Shop Vac vacuum brush attachment. I feel like Naphtha would be ok but... doesn't Naphtha act as an oil thinner? I'd be afraid of taking off some of the primer with a Naphtha rag.
Any suggestions?
rapid prep:
Quoted from Barr993:I use a blow gun with a relatively small tip (for higher air velocity) in one hand and sweep with the other hand to brush off the dust while blowing. Then a quick naphtha wipe down followed by the tack cloth.
Rapid Prep instead of the naptha wipe down. It adds to the paint adhesion by removing embedded oils and waxes from the tack rags a bit better. I really like it.
It suitable for all paints including clearcoat and dries fast.
I do a final wipe down in the spray booth before spraying using damp kirkland paper towels or any towels that are scent, lint and dye free. The cheap ones work the best.
Quoted from gawlicd:Didn't have any luck with harbor flight hvlp gun and kilz I'm used to old binks 69 or devilbiss guns using laquer, or imron, metalflake stuff. I changed the needle and tip to 1.8 that came extra with gun, psi 40 at compressor with gun squeezed, 25ft hose. And nothing but spatter. Air would come out at first good then drop off. My compressor is 5hp with 13gal tank I think. Really depressing so I used roller but not happy. Any ideas. Maybe bad needle or tip? Didn't try the smaller one.
Kilz is tough to spray.
Everyone seems to have their own recipe on how to thin it and still be a high solid primer.
The Kilz website has some info on this.
Does anyone have a recipe to share?
Quoted from gawlicd:Ok looks like naptha is disappearing from lowes and HD. HD only had 1 dented qt can left. Lowes had a couple but I wanted gallon. Paint store Sherwin had none.
Kilz original is on clearance at lowes also. 5.64 for qt and same for spray bomb. The red can.
Ace might have it.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Coleman camping fuel is naptha...
Naphtha has not been available in California for awhile now so its what we have been using... [quoted image]
Should work perfectly! And cheap at Walmart.
Quoted from alexmogil:Actually that's me, I didn't wear a respirator while sanding or painting.
Its rough work, but rewarding when done properly. It looks great!
Quoted from Lovef2k:I guess that explains the way they faded so bad? What do you mean by "decals bunching up"?
I watched a youtube vid where a guy sanded the decal completely off a Scared Stiff with an orbital sander with an elaborate vacuum setup. Can I go that route or will need heat gun to remove?
Sanding works pretty good.
I use this one, its good for light work and you can hook a shop vac to it.
I have the 5" one also.
Quoted from alexmogil:This is good info and close to what I did. I did my decaling myself, each decal in two sections.
[quoted image]
Lay out your decals to flatten them, overnight at least!
[quoted image]
Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when moving it. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.
[quoted image]
Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to lock in that side.
[quoted image]
Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.
[quoted image]
Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.
A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.
All of this is better said by Chris:
As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put a backer in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT.
I use a cell phone flashlight, flat across the wood from behind to help me see where the start button hole is.
It works pretty good.
A regular flashlight can give false shadows.
Quoted from alexmogil:Man I tried EVERYTHING. I used a cell phone light, a stick light, an LED light... I mean it all worked but then I was working in the dark and bumped the decal and ok start over and line it up and is that a shadow and I hate my parents and oh god I am useless start over...
That took like 90 minutes.
I hear you! Decals and be either super easy or a true terror.
A lot of people like the dry method as its very fast and requires no dry time.
I use the wet method using rapid-tac. My window decal installer, who does my window graphics, turned me onto it.
He will never install a $2500 decal without it. He says its just to risky, especially when installing a big decal on a window, outside in the wind.
I have actually squeegeed down an entire side piece and had to remove it and reapply it.
Fortunately, rapid-tac allows for a 30 min work time. It actually enhances the adhesive's ability to hold even though its a wet application.
Windex and dish soap mixtures will never do that.
I was able to remove the piece and stick it back down with no adhesive loss.
I love rapid-tac.
However, you do have to let it dry out for a few hours to make sure its really dried out before setting the edges down.
Im generally not in too much of a hurry.
Quoted from Lovef2k:She look sweet! I bought rapid prep by mistake. Just ordered rapid tac. Will I need the prep anyway?
I use rapid-prep all the time to clean before any paint including clearcoat is applied.
I heavily apply rapid-tac application fluid to the surface and the decal before application.
Mask the bottom of the cabinet to keep the fluid from staining or discoloring the particle board surface for best results.
I also use the application fluid to help set mylar on the playfield. It really helps to get mylars located properly without losing adhesive.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I'm getting close to D day, decals that is. For painting the cab edges, is Rustoleum okay to use for this. Or should I use something acrylic?
The cab side are sanded to bare wood but I have a few spots of bondo, can the decal be placed directly over or do they need to be sealed as well? I'm trying to keep the surface as flat as possible. I also have rapid prep and rapid tack on hand.
You have to completely primer the cabinet to hide the bondo spots.
They will show thru.
Everything shows with decals.
Kilz originsl oil based primer, either sprayed or rolled/brushed on.
They also have it in rattle can.
2 coats sanded between, works good enough.
After primer and final sanding.
Then paint the edges and holes and rear of the backbox and lower cabinet black or whatever color you are using.
Sand diwn any paint to primer transitions.
Rustoleum is a good paint just takes a while to dry hard.
Use tack rags a lot before decals.
Lightly sand any imperfections and break any paint lines.
Quoted from borna:Is rustoleum 2x acrylic enamel good paint to use on the cabinet?
Yes
Quoted from JoeJet:Been working on a Funhouse for 4? Years??
Anyway, anyone stupid enough to do what I just did?
[quoted image]
I would just put black painted carriage bolts in the holes and call it good.
Unless you want to re-decal the front and fill them. Its not too bad of a repair job, just time consuming.
In the long run it wont matter.
Any mistakes made will be up to next restorer to solve.
Quoted from dudah:Primed this cabinet with oil-based primer, sprayed it with HVLP and gloss oil-based paint.
This corner got sprayed too thick so after it dried I sanded it down and touched it up with the airbrush.
For both airbrush and HVLP I thinned the paint with some naptha.
It passes the 6 foot test but if you look at it at the right angle you can see where it was repainted, looks glossier than the rest.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
[quoted image]
Your surface prep looks a bit rough.
Quoted from Mathazar:Fortunately, the planking is not loose save for two small pieces on the bottom edge that looks more like it came loose from banging into something sometime over the years.
I hate working with bondo, but it has been affective for me in repairing cabinets in the past with far worse damage. Another pinsider recommended to me "Durham's Rock Hard" (amazon.com link ») which I'd never heard of before, but apparently this water based wood putty has been around for decades. Supposedly easier to work with vs bondo (too thin/watery? Add more powder. Too thick/pasty? Add more water). I'm going to practice with it on some scrap plywood ($2/can at my Home Depot) and if it seems good, I'll put a thin coat on the sides and the front of my Meteor cabinet.
Fix it all.
Coat the whole cabinet.
It cheap and you can make it putty like or thinner like a glaze.
Ive used it on tons of stuff.
It sands great, finish with bondo or halftime.
Dries hard.
Downside, it takes awhile to dry being water based if its super thick.
Quoted from mof:Has anyone tried using a thin laminate to remove all grain from a project?
It would work, but filler is fast and easy.
Chris Hutchins just fiberglasses the whole thing if needed with tiger hair or similar glass fiber resin.
Then final glaze, primer and paint.
Its quick and easy and can be done in a couple hours.
Quoted from cottonm4:Get a 2 x 4 about 2 feet long. Get some peelable spray adhesive from an automotive paint supply shop. Get a couple of sheets of sandpaper. Spray some adhesive and stick the sandpaper to the 2 x 4. You now have a nice, long, flat surface that you can block sand with. You will be knocking down the high spots and not digging into the low spots. When the sand paper is worn out, peel it off and add some fresh sandpaper.
As mentioned by some others, spray on a real light dust coat of black and sand it lightly. The reveal coating will be sanded away from the high spots, The black dust coat will remain in the low areas. Apply what ever your favorite filler is and repeat.
2x4 isnt flat enough.
Just get aluminum T-bar with a 2 or 3 inch base and glue the sand paper to it with contact cement or spray adhedive.
I originally made them for perfecting the leading and trailing edges of my R/C model airplanes and to flatten out any bumps in the sheeting.
You can get it in 2 or 3 or 4 ft lengths
I have an assortment of them. I rounded the sharp edges to eliminate scuffing.
Quoted from reconsider59:Probably a dumb question, so sorry in advance: but when replacing the “lost lips” with the window screen molding, do you simply use wood glue to hold everything together? Does the 1/4” ply need to be attached in any other way to the cabinet?
Put brads or screws, then put the molding to cover them. Use titebond 3 glue.
Quoted from Lovef2k:You guys mentioned oil based Kilz earlier in this thread. I'm only seeing it in cans, no spray. Is a spray available?
Also what is the cure time before applying final color to cab?
I have re-stenciled a few cabs in the past. The first few were oil based paints and then I went to Rustoleum rattle cans. I had success and failures with both. Now I'm looking into an airless sprayer and going to acrylic latex paints. I just ordered the Grace ultra corded style gun. This is all new to me. I will be doing early Stern and bally ss cabs, EBD, Xenon, meteor and Seawitch. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Quoted from alveolus:I had a bad outcome doing my first decal application. These decals appeared superb but they had been sitting in the original shipping tube for 7 years or so. Just peeling off the backing seemed unreasonably difficult. The decal would easily crease and wrinkle under its own weight if not removed with perfectly even-tensioned precision. Maybe it was poor technique but the videos I watched that part was casual and effortless which was not my experience at all.
What do you experts say? Bad technique or bad decals? (FYI these were from Phoenix Arcade)
[quoted image]
See if you can "shrink" out the bubbles with a little hot air and a fine needle.
Quoted from alveolus:I had a few bubbles, but the worst issue was the wrinkling of the decal while removing the backing. Can’t fix that.
I think it stretched.
Some of the thin vinyl decals do that. You have to be super careful with the thin kind.
Quoted from Steve100:How to fix screw holes in decals ?
Hi Pinside, seeking your collective wisdom on this.
My STTNG arrived. It is mostly in better condition that I thought, and is cleaning up quite nicely.
I was going to redo the cabinet with new decals, but no longer will, as they are mostly in great condition, and being original, are screen printed.
Below are photos, left side - mostly excellent, right side has some minor issues with screw holes (see enlarged sun photo as example).
Right Side headbox decal destroyed, so that will get replaced.
The advice I am looking for;
1 - how would you repair the screw holes so they fade away ?
2 - do I leave the engraved serial # as part of its heritage ? see 4th photo
Appreciate your thoughts.
As an fyi, I sourced new legs.
Thanks,
Steve
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Put a screw in each hole, paint the heads black.
No one will notice them and it will look factory.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:When I'm doing repairs on badly damaged cabinets, I use 2 part epoxy. No polyester resins. Learned this when building boats years ago.
It's a bit more expensive and harder to work with, but it bonds so much better. I just use tape to overfill the area, then and it down to a crisp corner. Works great. I use wood flour or other fillers sometimes, but it's usually straight epoxy.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Similar to the casting resin solution that Vid posted.
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