Vid,

How would you repair this mech panel/mounting board? Slip some wood glue between both boards where they separated and clamp them together? Would you remove the peeling paint on front of it and repaint it or just seal what's left of it?

Thanks,
Bruce

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What would you scrape it off with, a wire brush? I can dispose of the brush after doing this.

Thanks,
Bruce

Is this what you're talking about? http://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-13-oz-White-Oil-Based-Interior-Primer-Sealer-and-Stain-Blocker-Aerosol-10044/100371323

I'm planning to leave the old bulbs in when I remove the loose stuff so it doesn't get in the sockets but should I mask off some of it when I spray the Kilz? Cover the mechanics/wiring in the back with plastic? Leave the old bulbs in to keep the Kilz from getting in the sockets?

Thanks again,
Bruce

Vid,

Two questions about this backbox.

1. I've already vacuumed the inside of the backbox. Is there a clear spray I can use to spray and lock down the inside walls of the backbox?
(Would you use Sprayway Crazy Clean to clean the inside walls of the backbox and cabinet? This isn't a restore and it's inside where no one can see it. I don't have a respirator so I don't want to do any sanding or repainting)

2. Is the mechanical panel supposed to come out the front or back?
(this is a 1953 Williams and we got it out through the front because we had difficulty getting it out the back)

Btw, someone replaced the triangular brace with a piece of rectangular wood. I'm going to make a new one for that corner and possibly move the corner brace on the other side to the middle which is where the top corner braces are.

Thanks
Bruce

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Not clear, I was thinking of a spray like you use for charcoal drawings. Still advise to leave it as is?

Thanks again,
Bruce

I get what you mean. It would make the dirty parts look worse. Will leave it as is original condition.

Thanks and Happy Labor day
Bruce

Vid,

What would you use to fill in the cracks in the shadowbox part of the light board before I spray with the Kilz? Bondo?

Thanks,
Bruce

Shadow box (resized).png

Btw, I've clamped and glued it with Titebond3 already (above photo is before gluing) and it's nice and strong but there are still cracks that won't close. I'd rather fill in those cracks then spray with Kilz than tighten the clamps further and risk the wood breaking up.

Bruce

There seem to be many different "Bondo" wood fillers. Will any of them work or do I need a specific one? How about this one at Home Depot?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bondo-12-fl-oz-Wood-Filler-30081/206680651

Thanks,
Bruce

Does the Kilz spray take longer to dry in your experience if the weather is cold or rainy? I read the instructions and googled it. Seems it's not a good idea or you need to heat the space first.

I need to spray the backbox light panel in an unheated shed and the weather in my area is getting a low of 38 degrees with about 57 to 73 high.

Thanks,
Bruce

Also what do you guys use to cover the light sockets when spraying with Kilz? I don't want to use old bulbs and don't want the spray getting on the sockets.

I tried to find rubber tubing the right size that I can cut into short pieces for slipping over but none of them were the right size. Are there any "caps" the right size I can slip over the sockets before spraying?

Bruce

Insert them inside the sockets? I'd rather not have the outside of the sockets painted if possible and I'm trying to find something that will fit over the sockets covering the hole they're in so the primer won't leak through the board to the back getting on the mechanics.

There are about 38 of them to cover too. I could use painter's tape but it would be a pain to try to get them in the small areas.

Thanks,
Bruce

I'll try that. Which foam ear plugs do you guys use? How do you guys insert the plug into the wood hole if the socket is in the way?

Thanks,
Bruce

Ah ok. You can see from the photo that the sockets are sticking through the holes in the board. I'm trying to think of a way to cover them and plug the wood holes.

Bruce

I'll try that. Thanks.

Yes I read about the fiberglass resin at the beginning of your topic here. I bought the body filler one from Home Depot.

Yeah I googled it and it says Kilz takes 30 minutes to an hour so that should be enough time for me to bring it out to the shed in the afternoon when it's warmer and spray it then bring it back inside after a couple hours.

I'm still trying to find something to put over the light sockets and plug the wood holes before spraying the Kilz. Will try what terryb suggests unless you have a better suggestion.

Btw thanks for responding, Vid
Bruce

Vid,

You can see the corner brace is missing on the left. I'm making a replacement to match the one on the right. Would you just nail the replacement brace in or titebond3 or both? The backbox is still pretty sturdy for it's age.

Also, would you do anything with the top of the backbox in second photo? The rest of the backbox/cabinet paint is still good. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to improve the top part but keep it as original as possible?

Thanks,
Bruce

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Done, I'm very pleased with the result (and relieved too). Thanks for the advice, Vid.

Bruce

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I used to be a professional picture framer and know what you mean.

This is a finish question. I don't think the structure is a problem. Should I leave it as is or is there something I can do to improve it? I'd like to keep the original patina as much as I can to match the rest of the game and eventually put some kind of thin light lacquer finish over the cabinet paint to seal/protect it.

Thanks,
Bruce

OK, I'll leave that part alone.

Thanks again for your sage advice.

Bruce

Structure question to be sure before I glue in the new wood braces for good.

The backbox seems strong enough for it's age when I wiggle and test it even if it's a little warped on the bottom from drinks being spilled over the years.

Anything else I should do other than gluing the wood braces in and calling it a day?

Thanks,
Bruce

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Will do. Should I unbolt and remove the head before doing this?

The new braces are going in the middle bottom corners where they're supposed to go. The top braces are already in the correct middle position and will be left alone.

Thanks,
Bruce

I don't have a table saw or equipment like that. I can use angles to be sure it's square when I glue the bottom braces in unless you suggest a different solution.

Would you recommend 400 or 600 grit wood sandpaper for sanding where the braces will be glued?

Bruce

I'll check and make sure the box is square and get back to you on what to do if it isn't.

You mean wrap one of the new wood corner braces with sandpaper and use it to sand that area? I'm thinking that it would sand too wide an area to cover with the new wood brace unless I misunderstand you.

Bruce

I wanted to clarify that I was planning to leave the two top braces alone unless you recommend I also replace or re-glue them. The original plan was to reposition the bottom right brace and put in a new brace where the missing brace should be on the left bottom.

Thanks,
Bruce

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Nm, I get the "both sides at once" reference. I'll use a shorter brace to do this.

I used a square and confirmed the box is perfectly square. Will proceed with sanding and gluing the braces in.

I'm also planning to do a light sanding of the backbox bottom with 400 grit sandpaper to clean up some of the crud from drinks spilled over the years.

Thanks again, I don't know what we'd do without your guides and help. (probably end up putting off or never doing what we should be doing with our games due to lack of knowledge/experience)
Bruce

Long topic to look through but will this respirator also protect you against chemicals, spray paint etc or just lead paint? What would you use for chemicals/spraying paint?

Perfect. Thank you.

Vid,

Welcome back. I thought I'd share what I did.

The first time I just scraped off the old lead paint, filled in the cracks and painted it. Later I realized it was a half assed job that should have been done right because the old lead paint left ugly bumps in the Kilz paint.

I completely sanded the Kilz and old lead paint until it was down to flat level bare wood and painted it again. I think you'll appreciate the difference.

The front of the insert needed to be flat, smooth and level so it wouldn't rub against the backglass. There's very little clearance between the glass and insert in this 1950's Williams woodrail.

My advice is to do it right the first time.

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Done (resized).jpg

I ordered a gallon online. Can never have too much. ebay.com link: itm