Quoted from vid1900:Semi gloss black is what was usually original.
Spray is better than brush.
Hey Vid, is there any "affordable" DA sander you would recommend for cabinet sanding? What is the pro/con between and electric or an air sander?
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Quoted from vid1900:Semi gloss black is what was usually original.
Spray is better than brush.
Hey Vid, is there any "affordable" DA sander you would recommend for cabinet sanding? What is the pro/con between and electric or an air sander?
oh right, I just read that... I guess my "little" 21gal 2.5hp HF compressor won't cut it
so something like that would be a NO:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/6-in-dual-action-air-sander-68152-8054.html
Would that kind do:
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/2-amp-5-in-random-orbital-heavy-duty-palm-sander-69857.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MLSS1SW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009WRKUM
right, 21GAL was the biggest that I could get for my home garage... I was targeting 6CFM @ 40PSI and that one is rated at 5.8 (4.7@90PSI) so was hoping it would "just" be good enough for casual use.
looks like the HF sander works at 90PSI and the manual is asking for 4 CFM, so my compressor is nearly 20% above aka should work?
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/6-in-dual-action-air-sander-68152-8054.html
Or maybe just play safe and go with an electric one like the DeWalt?
i think i have dealt with the separated corner and remaking a gusset however i have the back of the bottom panel deeping out. Looking at the back of the cabinet the whole lip and even cabinet bottom "flaked" off?
reading your thread i saw the lip can be "Easily replaced by wooden "windown screen molding" from the home center ". Should I find the right size one at HD, then fix it on either side and what is left of the cabinet with nails before fixing the back of the cabinets? How best to attached the molding piece?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have been replacing the removed zinc coating with clearco 99% galvenizing spray to protect them.
http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/other/np-silvercoat_spray.pdf
It keeps them from getting corroded again.
Welders use it to protect welds from rust/corrosion.
Would something like this wokr as well?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKKZD2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7ClHEb7QK346P
I am restoring a solid state cabinet, and I want to get a nice smooth texture on my primer before putting the base paint and stencil.
using R-O flat gray primer spray paint, I wanted to sand between the primer coat but I am not sure how long i should wait before sanding and then putting the next coat? 220 or 320 grit for the sand paper?
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.
320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.
Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.
Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?
I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.
HEP mentioned it before, they put dome Vinyl down on the cab wood to avoid having to do any prime/paint prepping before decals. Most people usually sand them down, if you pull them off you are likely to take quite a bit of small pieces of wood with it, making a lot of filling repair to get it nice and smooth again
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