(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)


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    #52 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Semi gloss black is what was usually original.
    Spray is better than brush.

    Hey Vid, is there any "affordable" DA sander you would recommend for cabinet sanding? What is the pro/con between and electric or an air sander?

    #57 8 years ago

    right, 21GAL was the biggest that I could get for my home garage... I was targeting 6CFM @ 40PSI and that one is rated at 5.8 (4.7@90PSI) so was hoping it would "just" be good enough for casual use.

    looks like the HF sander works at 90PSI and the manual is asking for 4 CFM, so my compressor is nearly 20% above aka should work?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/6-in-dual-action-air-sander-68152-8054.html

    Or maybe just play safe and go with an electric one like the DeWalt?

    6 months later
    #101 7 years ago

    that reminded me of some of Brian Kelly's picture
    76da0a94ac07c7aa3746df098cc502647035899d_(resized).jpg76da0a94ac07c7aa3746df098cc502647035899d_(resized).jpg

    2 months later
    #172 7 years ago

    crap? even screen printed repro like those:

    ebay.com link: itm

    2 years later
    #524 5 years ago

    well slight separated corner... i'll to see what the inside looks like next *_*

    20190110_082024 (resized).jpg20190110_082024 (resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #541 5 years ago

    i think i have dealt with the separated corner and remaking a gusset however i have the back of the bottom panel deeping out. Looking at the back of the cabinet the whole lip and even cabinet bottom "flaked" off?

    20190310_170342 (resized).jpg20190310_170342 (resized).jpg

    reading your thread i saw the lip can be "Easily replaced by wooden "windown screen molding" from the home center ". Should I find the right size one at HD, then fix it on either side and what is left of the cabinet with nails before fixing the back of the cabinets? How best to attached the molding piece?

    1 year later
    #595 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I have been replacing the removed zinc coating with clearco 99% galvenizing spray to protect them.

    http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/other/np-silvercoat_spray.pdf

    It keeps them from getting corroded again.

    Welders use it to protect welds from rust/corrosion.

    Would something like this wokr as well?
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKKZD2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7ClHEb7QK346P

    5 months later
    #628 3 years ago

    I am restoring a solid state cabinet, and I want to get a nice smooth texture on my primer before putting the base paint and stencil.

    using R-O flat gray primer spray paint, I wanted to sand between the primer coat but I am not sure how long i should wait before sanding and then putting the next coat? 220 or 320 grit for the sand paper?

    #630 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

    I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.

    320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.

    Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.

    Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?

    I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.

    7 months later
    #714 3 years ago

    HEP mentioned it before, they put dome Vinyl down on the cab wood to avoid having to do any prime/paint prepping before decals. Most people usually sand them down, if you pull them off you are likely to take quite a bit of small pieces of wood with it, making a lot of filling repair to get it nice and smooth again

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