These guides are great and have provided so much great info, including this one. However, I struggled with finding a good finishing putty to cover pin holes and tiny scratches in primer/basecoat. I wanted something that could be easily and quickly applied, sanded and re-topped without issue... I have heard great things about a product called Evercoat Clear Sand, but I needed something I could purchase locally and quickly.

Well, I picked up a few tubes of 3M Bondo Glazing Spot Putty, and I am very impressed with the final results. I used a credit card to apply a feather coat on top of my kilz primer, let dry 45 minutes, and then sanded. It's nice that it's a 1 part system so no hardener/mixing required. It's extremely easy to sand, and I was able to apply a further topcoat immediately after the initial dry time. it easily filled pin holes and minor abrasions that I missed with wood filler applied prior to the base primer.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Glazing-Spot-Putty/?N=5002385+3293241079+3294066550&rt=rud

Forgot to mention that this putty is available at most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc... some carry it, also available same day pickup.

Question... working on a GTB Fast Draw... one of the cabinet sides has a warp that has pulled away from the bottom supports about a half inch... any tips on reducing or reversing the warp? Was thinking a hot wet towel on the inside of the cab wall and pull in with a half dozen pipe clamps overnight or a few days? The warp runs about 2 feet and really shows at the bottom of cab, and less at the top.

Any problems with this idea, or other tips?

Thanks!

Vid, would you suggest bolting onto both the struts and side?

Just to be clear, it's a viable option but it's still a nasty process... especially when you're dealing with areas of the backbox that are thicker in paint and tougher to cover with the paper towels... I went through 3/4 of a gallon of acetone and an entire roll of PTs for a 4 player Gottlieb cabinet... not knocking the process because it is a huge time saver, but just be aware that it's an unpleaseant job that you should do an a well ventilated area with some decent chemical-resistant gloves at the bare minimum.

Bottom line is that this is a nice alternative but not for everyone.

Agreed on Rustoleum paints... but I'd go for a few bucks more per can for the stencil paints, and move up to Molotow low pressure cans; you can spray 2 to 4 light coats to cover... 3 to 5 minutes between coats, and peel immediately after 5 minutes is up on the last coat... done 4 cabs with it and some very elaborate ones to boot. No pulls, great coverage, dries smooth and hard, never a pull-up... why use anything else? I buy mine from Bombing Science... a bit cheaper than Dick Blick or others.

No way you can do this work outside? If there's a way to strip any cabinet that may have lead paint, I'd do anything possible to get it done outdoors.