Two questions:

How do you properly remove the metal security plate from a classic Bally?

How do you quickly remove the panel? (since there isn't a need for these in home use)

metal plate (resized).jpg

Thanks for the reply. I can get the nails out (with a little work). The problem is removing it from the machine. It doesn't want to flex/bend enough to pull it out, since its very rigid.

My fear is the only way to remove it would be to cut the trim pieces holding it in around that area. But these also hold the floor in the cabinet.

Thanks for confirming. I was hoping there was a super secret way of removing this. I'll have to weigh my options for doing this.

I ended up taking a sharpened scraper, and could split a couple layers of the plywood off the cabinet. This allowed for the plate to be removed without bending it. I'll end up putting the trim piece back on with window screen molding, as Vid mentioned.

I've used Durham's on some of my restores (including Flash Gordon & Quicksilver). It is much easier to work with than bondo. It takes a little practice to get the consistency correct for applying it. And the fact that it is waterbased always made me wonder. But the cabinets I used it on still looks good.

For something like your application, I suggest Dolphin putty. It's kind of like bondo, in that it's two component, but I've had much better luck with it. Also, Dolphin glaze is great for the next step. You may be able to skip the putty and just go to the glaze. Its more liquid-y, and spreads & sands easily. it works great for smoothing over smaller scratches.

No, that would add thickness to the cab, that would have to be accounted for, similar to the radcal cut outs for side rails and coin doors—just not a good look.

If you want to do it right:
Sand the artwork down (or use the acetone strip method—preference)
Remove dust
Skim with fiberglass resin & let dry
Sand with 60 or 80 grit, leveling as needed.
Remove dust then sand with 100 or 150 grit
Skim with dolphin glaze
Sand with 150 grit, then 220 grit, checking for level with you hand.
Clean and paint primer.
Sand with 220 and fill with dolphin glade and sand/primer as needed until fully smooth.

Fiberglass resin. Skim the entire thing with it. See my post above.

I just did a heavily planked cabinet. Came out glass smooth.

This is the correct technique to address the issue.

You may need to pour the fiberglass resin twice. First time use the large spreader. Then use a large flat sanding block, or 1/3rd sheet sander. Once you start to see the wood show through on the peaks, apply the resin a second time, building up the valleys more.

Don’t put a lid on it. Just set it outside, uncovered, until everything is fully dry. Then you can cover it and dispose.