(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)


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    #851 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Pry out the staples and remove the Dam when the Resin is almost dry.
    The wax will allow it to pop right off.
    Once the Resin is completely dry, sand flush with the wood.
    You now have a durable, permanent repair.
    [quoted image]
    You can see the screw heads imbedded in the Resin:
    [quoted image]

    Thanks for the great thread! Any thoughts on using 2-part epoxy for corner repair vs. fiberglass resin? Winter in Canada and I can't deal with the stink of fiberglass in my basement so I'm looking for alternatives.

    #854 2 years ago

    Thanks guys, I gave it a shot with Some 2-part Gorilla epoxy as it was fairly runny and it came out pretty well.46817400-4B8F-415E-A36F-864CC61C3235 (resized).jpeg46817400-4B8F-415E-A36F-864CC61C3235 (resized).jpeg
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    9 months later
    #909 1 year ago

    I agree with leaving the serial number alone but for the hole, it should be a pretty easy fix. I would carefully sand/deburr it, plug with epoxy putty and the man sand smooth. The paint repair can be done with a very fine point brush just laying down dots to replicate the silkscreen. I did this on my AFM as a total newbie and it turned out ok. I bought a little set of water based oil paints that mixed very easily and I was able to match the colour pretty well. If you look closely you can see the difference but if you don’t know it’s there, it blends right in. My colour match wasn’t perfect but for a first attempt I was happy. With the size of repair you are doing it will be invisible.
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    #916 1 year ago
    Quoted from jlbintn:

    Deleenhe, how did you avoid brush strokes. I would rather brush paint when I can, especially small areas, but I have never been able to get that smooth look. I know it's possible, but I do believe that technique was not included in my talent pool

    With that paint I found it went on pretty smooth with no visible brush strokes and once you add the dots on top anything underneath just blends in.

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